Tag Archives: fine dining

Fera at Claridge’s, Mayfair

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Simon Rogan may not have received a star for his Manchester culinary triumph, The French, but his prestigious new London eatery, Fera, was awarded the accolade within weeks of opening. Housed in the iconic Claridges Hotel, it is surprisingly daring considering the traditional clientele who frequent this establishment.

Rogan first made an impact on the food scene with his 2 star restaurant L’Enclume in the Cumbrian village of Cartmel, an eatery that introduced us to the chef’s clever cuisine inspired by nature. The French is similar in style, offering innovative food presented in unusual ways.

Fera is latin for wild but, located within the beautifully redesigned art deco dining room at Claridge’s, it is quite the opposite: pristine and organised with a bare tree construction branching out in the centre of the room. In his food however Rogan tames the wild wonders of the garden and pairs the delicate and sometimes obscure flavours with meat and fish cooked to perfection.

I began with one of the delightful seasonal cocktails, it was a lovely shade of pink, a carefully combined mix of pear juice, fig-infused vodka, spiced wine and fennel seed spray. An ideal aperitif to sip whilst nibbling the amuse-bouche. In due course homemade warm malty bread arrived at the table with a dish of whipped caramelised butter.

The lunch menu for the day featured:

To start:

Smoked Bantam yolk, salt-baked kohlrabi, cavolo nero, Isle of Mull, truffle

Beetroot with fresh cheese, chicory brined in dill, pickled pear and horseradish

Main Course:

Reg’s guinea hen, salt-baked celeriac, buttered kale, cider sauce

Roasted plaice with purple sprouting, new potatoes, seaweed sauce

Dessert:

Chocolate cream, apple marigold, shortbread and rapeseed jam

Bramley apple cake, praline ice cream and chestnut

The dishes were beautifully arranged, plates of contrasting colours, textures and shapes, Rogan challenges the diner with unlikely flavour pairings. The Beetroot was a delectable treat, soft and sweet with vinegary and crunchy chicory and indulgent cheese. Smoked Bantam yolk shone marigold orange from the centre of the plate, strewn with greens and an almost tart milky sauce with a luxurious hint of truffle.

Desserts were conservative in size, and my Bramley apple cake tasted almost too healthy for a Michelin meal; light and refreshing with a sharp apple taste and creamy ice cream, shavings of chestnut on top. I thought the cake was most impressive, a dense but spongey texture packed full of flavour. I barely got to taste the chocolate dish, it was polished off pretty quickly, a dollop of silky chocolatey cream and vibrant citrus and biscuit crumbs, the perfect conclusion to the meal for sweet toothers.

A meal for two at Fera will cost you a hefty £300, but visit at lunchtime and you can taste Rogan’s revelatory cooking for just £30 a head. You will experience three courses, as imaginative as the a la carte but lighter and smaller, so you won’t feel weighed down all day. I can’t think of a better Michelin lunch deal in London.

More information and book a table at Fera here.

Tchaikovsky Night at L’Europe, St Petersburg

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Grand Hotel Europe is one of the most prestigious hotels in St Petersburg. Centrally located, this hotel has been a cultural and culinary landmark for over 130 years. Fully equipped for business and leisure guests with the highest expectations, it boasts beautiful bedrooms, fine restaurants, shopping outlets, a beauty salon and much to my excitement, a pastry shop.

We visited on a Friday evening in December; as snowflakes began to fall outside we were relieved to step inside the warm, cosy lobby. After a brief look at the stylish new suites, we sat at the bar for a classic cocktail, while a jazz pianist played in the background. The hotel suits jazz, the old glamorous décor evokes a bygone era of opulent luxury.

The hotel’s main eatery, L’Europe is Russia’s oldest continuously serving restaurant. The elegant art nouveau room is a wonder – one is surrounded by stunning stained glass windows and regal detailing. We were lucky enough to be present for a famed Tchaikovsky Night, which takes place here every Friday – guests enjoy a wonderful performance of music and ballet accompanying the top cuisine.

We were seated at 8pm, at an isolated table close to the small stage. Dimly lit with flickering candles, it was a very intimate and romantic setting. We sampled a range of Russian cuisine which the L’Europe team created with care and innovation. A glass of bubbly was the perfect start to the meal, perking up our tastebuds for the food ahead.

The menu is lengthy and varied with traditional and modern dishes to please every palate. I tried country style Russian blinis filled with pan-fried cabbage and minced beef and served with whipped sour cream, herbs and a hint of garlic. They were like soft spring rolls with a sweet meaty filling and topped with contrasting cream. More international was the grilled scallops with Iberico ham, warm chard, zucchini, green beans and potato, a subtle combination of flavours and textures.

For main course we ordered Beef Stroganoff, which is obligatory when in Russia! This dish can be clumsy and laborious to eat but L’Europe create a refined version, a creamy sauce with high quality meat and topped with delicious crispy onions. The best bit for me was the pile of silky smooth buttery mash which complemented the meat dish. The waiter insisted we try Russian wine which was surprisingly tasty and well matched with the food.

To complete the lovely evening of culture and culinary delights, we shared an indulgent rich chocolate fondant with vanilla ice cream and a pot of fresh mint tea. Sophisticated food and dazzling music by talented musicians – you couldn’t hope for a more special night in St Petersburg.

More information and book here.

Food at Puente Romano Beach Resort, Marbella

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There are so many reasons to visit Puente Romano Beach Resort, but for me it was the quality of food and variety of cuisines that was most alluring. Wherever you choose to eat, the smiling staff at Puente Romano will ensure you have a memorable and delicious meal. Here are a few foodie highlights from my recent trip to Marbella.

Sea Grill
This newly renovated and re-decorated restaurant has a fresh and stylish feel. With expansive floor to ceiling windows the view of the sea is emphasised, filling the room with natural light. British Interior Designer Andrew Martin has given the space a sophisticated seaside feel with muted beiges and bright blue shades accenting the white backdrop. This chic restaurant offers food to match… vibrant Mediterranean cuisine cooked with the special Tandoor oven and charcoal grill. We sampled a fine chateaubriand steak, cooked to perfection with a lovely crispy edge, garlicky mussels and marinated tandoori chicken with vegetables. For dessert the banana doughnuts came highly recommended so we couldn’t resist trying these little mouthfuls of sugary goodness. The ambience was lovely at Sea Grill thanks to the resident band who play classic jazz songs beautifully (including requests from the audience)!

Dani Garcia Restaurante
Dani Garcia is lauded as one of Spain’s most talented chefs and this restaurant was awarded two Michelin stars less than a year after opening. His kitchen of ‘contradiction’ presents magical food creations inspired by fairytales and the story of Alice in Wonderland. Flavours, textures and smells all contribute to this unusual and unique gastronomic experience. Opt for the tasting menu for the full immersive meal or choose a la carte courses to create your own meal. I was delighted to see half-portion sizes for those with lesser appetites! My starter was a colourful vegetarian risotto garnished with delicate and decorative pieces of carrot, onion, corn and courgettes and peas. The rustic mushroom tart with cured Spanish ham was also a resounding success. Main courses were of the highest quality: Sirloin beef with truffle, and Roast suckling pig with beetroot and prunes. For dessert I would recommend the tropical white chocolate mousse with coconut and pineapple, though the hazelnut soufflé with candyfloss is also great fun! A trip to Dani Garcia’s emporium is truly unforgettable; a choreographed, culinary masterpiece.

Bibo
This quirky and colourful dining room is Dani Garcia’s more playful and casual eatery. The detailing in both the dishes and décor is immediately noticeable, I particularly loved the characterful upholstery and the pretty pink plates. The chef had kindly prepared us a feast of specialities which we gratefully devoured. We tried regional recipes including Salmorejo, a creamy cold tomato soup thickened with bread and flavoured with garlic and olive oil and topped with soft mozzarella balls, and addictive stewed meat croquettes. Other highlights included salty and sensational pork rinds with fried padron peppers and the sweet caramelised Oxtail brioche which arrived as a mini burger. The meal was accompanied with a wonderfully light and dry white wine, Menade Verdejo D.O Rueda made in Western Spain by the Sanz family. Bibo offers tapas with a twist that will suit every palate… it was a brilliant concept and an exemplary meal.

Namazake
After dinner we visited this exotic venue for a sake-based fruity cocktails. Namazake serves immaculate Japanese food in a contemporary cool setting, but is also a lovely place for a pre or post meal tipple. Situated in the Plaza Village, the atmosphere is buzzy and benefits from the communal square. Guests can sit comfortably inside or lounge on the Al Fresco stone steps.

Read about and book all the Puente Romano Beach Resort restaurants here.