Affordable Michelin-starred dining
It’s not easy to find a reliable, yet distinctive early dinner spot in central London, but whether you’re heading to the theatre later in the evening or just want to get home a little earlier now the nights are drawing in, it’s a desirable option! Enter The Ninth, a relaxed one Michelin star restaurant in Fitzrovia offering a two or three course set early dinner menu six days a week (alongside their a la carte dishes). It’s good-value, intimate, and chic and the guests are made to feel special with a level of care and familiarity that is perfectly balanced. I appreciated the little touches used to take dishes to the next level: wafer thin slices of pickled pumpkin atop the crispy risotto, tomato added as a twist to a classic aioli, and crème fraiche in the sour cherry ice-cream creating a harmonious combination of sweet and tart flavours. The very best The Ninth has to offer though is of course the legendary Pain Perdu & Tonka Bean Ice-Cream. With a crisp, caramelised shell and soft, light centre, it is reason enough to visit this neighbourhood restaurant at any time!
MUST ORDER: Pain Perdu & Tonka Bean Ice-Cream
Dine in a London landmark
Apple Menu, Saison by Mauro Colagreco, OWO Hotel
Walking into the Old War Offices on Whitehall feels as though you’re being given special access to a secret part of our country’s past. The building is steeped in history, and since its extensive renovation, luxury too, with warmly lit corridors now leading to bedrooms, rather than offices. The UK’s first Raffles Hotel has made this iconic building its home, and nestled in the centre is the old library, now an inviting dining room housing Saison by three-Michelin starred chef Mauro Colagreco. It’s a peaceful, quietly opulent backdrop for refined yet comforting food. The Apple Menu gives Colagreco the perfect opportunity to combine his delicate Mediterranean cooking with the best British produce, namely apples, celebrating their season with a two or three course set menu. The reds and greens of various apple varieties beautifully ornament the light, balanced dishes, and the texture and sweetness of the fruit is cleverly adapted to contribute in different contexts. For me, the Granny Smith Apple Risotto is the standout dish; the unassuming little cubes of apple add dimension, cutting through the savoury, creamy rice. In some dishes, the apple is very much the star of the show; perhaps unsurprisingly this is definitely the case for the two desserts: exquisite little homages to this humble British fruit.
MUST ORDER: The seasonal risotto
Eat in an art gallery
The beautifully renovated Sainsbury’s Wing of the National Gallery houses Giorgio Locatelli’s casual, yet refined Italian restaurant, which opened earlier this year. It is assured, warm, and welcoming, in a dining room that is airy and relaxed, whilst feeling connected to the bustling gallery surrounding it. Diners have the privilege of eating their elevated antipasti, lovingly made fresh pasta, and classic desserts next to Paula Rego’s much-celebrated largescale painting ‘Crivelli’s Garden’. It’s a truly arty lunch; studying a painting whilst digging into your burrata! I went away dreaming of the next time I’ll have the treat of a ragu that morish, or a chocolate cake that intense in flavour and fudgy in texture.
MUST ORDER: Chocolate Cake
Try Ukrainian food
This earthy, calm restaurant describes its food as ‘cuisine inspired by Ukraine’, but I would go further and say that a love and respect for Ukraine is the beating heart of everything Tatar Bunar does. If you’ve never tasted Ukrainian food before, prepare for an education from a passionate team of Ukrainian foodies, one of whom is dedicated to preparing varenyks (Ukrainian dumplings)by hand in a designated part of the centrally placed kitchen. I was informed that the Cottage Cheese Varenyks with Mushroom Mousse were unmissable (they were so tasty), but next time I go I might only order dumplings so I can try other varieties! They are more delicate and lighter than their Polish cousins, pierogi, and expertly crafted. Tatar Bunar presents wholesome, classic Ukrainian dishes with beautiful care and appreciation, combining sorrow-tinged nostalgia and celebration. Ultimately, it’s a warm, uplifting experience to share these Ukrainian plates with people you love whilst learning about and preserving a distinctly delicious food culture.
MUST ORDER: Cottage Cheese Varenyks with Mushroom Mousse
An experience like no other
A small crowd was gathering on the street in Mayfair by the time my guest and I arrived, all searching for the unassuming black door to transport us into the world of Punk Royale. The restaurant’s illusive character extends far beyond its humble exterior; rumours are all that most can share about what happens inside. Shepherded in, you enter a room of contradictions, full of people prepared to spend hundreds of pounds for a one-off experience, but in a dining space that looks like the rear room of a club. However, there at the back, quietly bustling, focussed and poised, is the shiny kitchen ready to unleash 20+ whimsical courses on an unsuspecting audience. The experience is a cross between promenade theatre and those immersive horror shows where actors wearing scary masks jump out at you, but here it’s actually a waiter tapping you on the shoulder to spoon a mysterious liquid into your mouth. The playlist sounds like two people with wildly different music tastes fighting over the aux cable; at times raucous, at others hypnotic, it truly helps you get lost in the all-encompassing experience of the meal. What happens in Punk Royale stays in Punk Royale and I think this suits the people who go a bit wild there on a Saturday night, but what I will say is that what I ate I very much enjoyed! The food is playful, punchy, and provocative. My favourite dishes were the mushroom broth that looks like a baby Guinness shot, the ‘taste of Sweden’ bite, and the nutty, creamy, fruity licking plate. It’s exclusive, grungy, high-octane fun, but where the beauty lies is in the balance between the joie de vivre mentality that shapes the concept and the precision and discipline that allows the small team to expertly perform a logistical feat every service. I think these Swedish mavericks should keep it up!
MUST ORDER: Just tell them in advance if there’s something you don’t eat!
Written for Thoroughly Modern Milly by Eloise Kenny-Ryder.
