The Caledonian, Edinburgh

The Caledonian is the grand dame of hotels in Edinburgh. This epic historic building on Princes Street is the perfect place to stay for a weekend trip to Scotland. After a recent £20million renovation the hotel, restaurants and Guerlain spa are looking better than ever, making it the ideal time to visit.

The grand entrance instantly reminded me of Paris, with elaborate marble flooring and an impressive chandelier. Check-in was swift and we were soon admiring the unbeatable view from our top-floor suite. The emphasis is on comfort, with soft materials and lovely furnishings, nostalgic black and white photos on the walls, and a lovely natural glow from the daylight streaming in through the windows.

The bedroom is simple and sophisticated with just the necessary bed, desk, wardrobes and bedside table. No clutter to confuse guests, just the luxurious essentials. Colours are stylish shades of muted grey, cream and dusty blue and in the sitting room area a nespresso machine, tv, speakers for your ipod and sofa encourage you to sit down and relax.

The bathroom is even brighter with large windows sunken into the sloped ceiling. I was disappointed not to find a bathtub but the power shower is wonderful with a huge rainforest fitting that soaks you in seconds. Salvatore Ferragamo Tuscan Soul toiletries are gentle and fragrant on hair and body and huge enveloping bathrobes are wonderfully comfortable, the perfect attire for an evening in.

Foodies will delight in the two restaurant options from renowned chefs Chris and Jeff Galvin. We experienced breakfast and lunch in the lovely Brasserie de Luxe though sadly didn’t have time to try the more prestigious Pompadour. Everything and anything is available for your morning meal, we chose a selection of flaky pastries and hot french toast, though the highlight for me was the fresh red berry smoothie made to order at the fruit counter.

For lunch the menu focuses on classic French recipes to match the Parisian design and character of the great room. The dishes lend themselves to sharing and it is a great way to try an assortment of the Galvins’ culinary ideas. Snails were just as they should be, buttery, garlicky and utterly scrumptious. Then for mains the speciality grilled langoustine was indulgent and fresh and my breast of guinea fowl with pommes fondant and hispi cabbage was sweet and succulent, carefully seasoned and cooked perfectly.

Sides should be mentioned, creamed potato and sautéed tender stem broccoli were especially tasty and provided some much needed green accompaniment to the meal. The sommelier is happy to appropriately match your food to wine and we tasted a delicious light white with our meal after a welcoming glass of champagne.

Desserts are tempting and traditional, with chocolate and fruity options to suit all cravings. Of the dishes we tried, I particularly loved the Tarte Tatin aux Pommes, a classic caramelised cake with a dollop of contrasting cream.

On departure I was heartbroken to hear I was expected to stay two nights… I could not imagine anything more wonderful than a second night in this dreamy hotel… in fact I would have happily stayed the whole week in Edinburgh’s Caledonian, you feel like queen of the castle.

More information and book here.

Thanks to the Edinburgh Tourist Board.

Thoroughly Modern Milly travelled with East Coast Trains. East Coast operates regular services each weekday between London King’s Cross and Edinburgh. Customers travelling First Class can enjoy East Coast’s complimentary food and drinks offer plus unlimited Wi-Fi. Book advanced return fares online at www.eastcoast.co.uk. Times and fares can also be found via 08457 225225 or from any staffed stations.

Namaskar Spa, Marrakech

Every girl should have perfect nails to display at the poolside so I was delighted when I got the chance to try the Namaskar Spa for a full luxury pedicure.

Located down a hidden pathway, the spa is unassuming – a quiet retreat for guests needing some t.l.c. Greeted by the friendly staff, I took a seat and enjoyed my soothing tea and warm cleansing cloth.

My therapist spoke no English so we communicated minimally through hand gestures. A full hour of intensive foot pampering passed by quickly, it was perhaps the most thorough pedicure I have ever experienced.

After a soak and file, my feet were exfoliated and moisturised, though the best part was the amazing massage which followed. While I read through the various magazines on offer, my therapist worked miracles on my feet, her concentration did not falter. My toenails were trimmed, rounded and even my Jessica nail varnish colour of choice was painted on, a vibrant shade of daffodil yellow.

With flip-flops carefully manoeuvred onto my colourful feet, I was ready to show off my tootsies by the pool. Namaskar Spa is a real asset to the hotel and a must for every guest.

More information here: www.palaisnamaskar.com/eng/welcome/

Restaurante Egaña Oriza, Seville

Eating in Seville is usually casual and laid back, delicious meals of charcuterie, cheese and tapas; it is rare to discover a fine dining opportunity. So I was intrigued when I heard of Oriza, a luxurious restaurant that often welcomes celebrities through its doors.

There are various dining options on offer at Oriza, a relaxed tapas bar, private conference areas and intimate dining rooms to suit every occasion. The spacious and smart main restaurant is the most attractive with light flooding in through the big window and swish white clothed tables. To accompany our fine Spanish Cava, we were treated to hot sizzling chorizo and fresh bread from the chef. A bottle of extra virgin olive oil is found on each table for dipping and drizzling.

We chose a variety of dishes from the a la carte menu, which is predominantly made up of fish options. White asparagus was unusually big and served cold, with a nice flavour but slightly odd. My truffle, mushroom and foie gras risotto was rich and delicious, an indulgent dish topped with Parmesan crisps… my only issue was the size of the portion, far far too big for me to finish.

For main course the sole was the star dish, an immaculately cooked and completely boneless fillet, served with wonderfully smooth mashed potato. The lamb was amazingly tender though needed more seasoning, served with potato and a crisp green salad. The sommelier perfectly matched my meat with a wonderful Spanish red wine, full bodied yet very easy to drink.

For dessert we tried the sorbets and the homemade almond and chocolate tart. Both were delicious, though after a large lunch the sorbet was a wiser choice. A strong shot of coffee completed this perfectly simple but stylish Spanish meal. When you feel like you need a break from tapas I’d recommend a trip to Oriza, where the food and ambience will not disappoint.

More information and book here.

www.restauranteoriza.com

La Mamounia, Marrakech

Everyone has heard of La Mamounia, its long established reputation impresses even the most jaded of journalists.

As the other Easyjet passengers lugged their bags up to passport control we were quietly ushered into a VIP waiting lounge whilst our landing cards and passports were checked for us. Instead of fighting in line, we sat in a blissfully air conditioned room cooling down with traditional Moroccan refreshments. La Mamounia ensures their guests feel well looked after from the moment you walk off the plane… and this preferential treatment was just the beginning.

A short pleasant taxi drive later and we were entering the crumbling walls of Marrakech old town and turning into a prestigious entrance. The first thing I noticed… everything inside the Mamounia territory appears brighter and more vibrant and special… you feel like you are entering a grand museum not a hotel. Men in elegant white outfits welcomed us into a lavish reception hall inundated with staff. They watch your every step as you walk up the central staircase… I felt bad I wasn’t someone more exciting to stare at… the list of celebrities that have graced this hotel with their presence is endless.

This year La Mamounia celebrates its 90 year anniversary and with the property’s recent full renovation, there has never been a better time to visit. Redesigned by the internationally acclaimed Jacques Garcia, this new improved palace has won too many awards to count. Garcia describes it as “reminiscent of a far away time and place, La Mamounia evokes a modern day fairytale.”

After admiring the beautiful grand hall we were taken up to our room by a friendly member of staff. He smiled as we excitedly examined every detail of our spectacular room. The rooms, though similar in style and mood, have their own character… the accommodation is split into four main categories: rooms, suites, signature suites and riads. We were staying in a lovely executive suite overlooking the perfect park of La Mamounia.

Our room was rich and decadent, dressed in fabulously heavy velvety materials with cream walls and deep red furniture. The light streamed in from the large balcony and gave the room a warm glow and yet the thick walls and precious materials are ideal for cooling it in the summer months. Fresh white roses added fragrance and life to the room and an array of wonderful Moroccan pastries and champagne provided the perfect afternoon treat. Traditional craftsmanship can be seen in every detail: the intricately carved plaster, the repetitively patterned tiles and highly decorative handmade metal tables. It is disconcerting when a hotel ignores its country’s heritage, it can disorientate me and waking up in the morning I can suddenly forget I’m even away from London… La Mamounia ensure this doesn’t happen with Moroccan culture and creativity visible in every aspect of the hotel.

Our bed and bathroom were made for relaxing… the very highest quality with every special touch you could desire. Each bathroom includes a stand alone bathtub, marble surfaces, a walk in rain shower, separate toilet and two sinks. It felt like a miniature spa, especially with the custom made Mamounia toiletries.

In the daytime there is plenty to entertain you in this haven. First you must explore the well kept, lush gardens, working up an appetite for the ice-cream and macaroon parlour. For those who crave sunshine, a stint by the Mamounia pool should tan you sufficiently, order a fresh pineapple juice from one of the attentive waiters to stay hydrated in the heat. The giant spa offers every imaginable treatment in a stunning setting, and for those in need, a hairdresser is also on site. The tennis courts are lovely if you can stand the soaring temperatures and professional coaches are on hand to give lessons.

When it is time to eat there are several options to choose from: for fine traditional Moroccan cuisine you must try Le Marocain – delicious pigeon pastillas, chicken with olives, preserved lemon tagine and succulent meat grill. I can also highly recommend the celebratory 90 year anniversary Icone red wine which enhances many of the menu choices. Those guests who are tired of tagine can choose to dine at the equally distinguished L’Italien or Le Francais showcasing the best of Italian and French cooking. After dinner pop into the Winston Churchill bar (as a homage to this famous regular visitor, the room was left in its original wacky style) for a cocktail and a touch of live jazz.

During the day more casual eateries provide lighter dishes and refreshing drinks, though after the buffet breakfast bonanza you shouldn’t need much more sustenance. Everything you could ever desire for your morning meal is here. I couldn’t resist the classic croissants and orange juice, though if I’d been more adventurous I definitely would have opted for a customised homemade omelette or an extravagant pile of waffles.

Those revisiting their favourite Moroccan hotel will never have expected such a spectacular reincarnation… those arriving for the first time will fall in love with the undeniable magic of the Mamounia masterpiece.

More information and book here.

www.mamounia.com/uk

Many thanks to Visit Morocco and Travellink Morocco.

Spa and Sustenance at La Sultana, Marrakech

La Sultana is part of the ‘Small Luxury Hotel of the World’ group and successfully offers guests authentically Moroccan five-star accommodation. This lovely property is steeped in tradition and beautifully designed. With various riads to choose from, the different rooms and suites evoke alternate characters, moods and styles, there truly is something for everyone. It is a petite hotel, intimate and cosy but it is easy to find your own space to relax. The central courtyards offer oases of serenity and peace, with trickling fountains, lush greenery and pretty pools for cooling down during the hours of sweltering heat.

With our accommodation already arranged, we sadly couldn’t test the rooms but found just enough time for a short spa treatment and evening meal. Here we found a moment of quiet despite being located in the midst of the medina.

The small scale indulgences were modest but wonderful and the attention to detail is obvious throughout the building.

The fragranced hallway leads you to the small spa which offers a large variety of specialised treatments. After changing we descended a precarious spiral staircase to a warm room for a 30 minute massage. Asked beforehand about our preferences, we were each able to customise the massage to best suit our needs. I chose to concentrate on back and legs and chose the sweet vanilla oil. Relaxed and destressed, I was almost asleep by the end.

Before supper we had a few minutes to enjoy a hot cup of herbal tea and the thermal pool, revitalising our bodies before the feast ahead. With seating around an illuminated outdoor pool and a local musician playing in the cloisters, the setting for dinner could not have been more romantic and special. Moroccan classics and contemporary dishes can be found on the menu, so for those staying at the hotel there is plenty of choice each evening. We selected a mixture of both cuisines though it was the more traditional dishes that stood out. Pigeon pastilla with rich and meaty, while the lobster ravioli was an innovative and extravagant option. My chicken tagine was tender and vibrantly flavoured with lemon, a popular recipe in Marrakech, made here to the highest standards. Following several glasses of well-matched Moroccan wine, we completed the meal with expertly poured fresh mint tea.

La Sultana is quite simply a lovely place to be, awakening every sense to the Moroccan way of life and leaving you with a lasting memory of this miraculous city.

More information on La Sultana here.

www.lasultanahotels.com

Many thanks to Visit Morocco and Travellink Morocco.

AC Marriott Hotel, Seville

There are three Marriott hotels in Seville to choose from, each with its own advantages. We stayed in the most centrally located, convenient for both tourists and business visitors, though very much geared to the latter.

The facade of the building is attractive and charming, however inside the tone is muted with a dull grey colour scheme and rather tired dated decor. The Spaniards are not renowned for their English speaking and this was a bit of a problem at check in… the sweet girl tried desperately hard to understand us but it still took a while to communicate! Our twin suite was up a few floors in a very jumpy lift. The rooms were plain and anonymous though perfectly functional and clean. For a weekend break it is sufficient though with a little updating it could be remarkably improved.

Grey was the overall vibe of our private space too, with simple furniture and a few pictures adding a little colour to the walls. The beds were surprisingly comfortable with miraculous mattresses and plush pillows. The beds were topped with a light sheet and blanket which we found was enough once we worked out how to control the overactive air con!

The bathroom was big and bright with a comfortable bath and plentiful towels and toiletries for our use.

For those wishing to keep up their fitness routine a lovely outside pool and exercise equipment are located on the top floor. If we’d had more time I would have liked to explore this appealing area.

Breakfast is served in the basement, near to the conference rooms. With no natural light this could have been miserable but in fact the cheery staff and appetising food made the atmosphere very convivial. With a Nespresso machine and fresh croissants, I had everything I needed for my morning meal.

For visitors requiring internet you will need to find it in the lobby area where access is free and easy to connect to; in the rooms it is an additional cost and requires a special code.

Helpful and kind, it is the staff at this Marriott branch that make the hotel appealing. With close proximity to the airport and city centre this accommodation will be convenient for all Seville visitors, though the lack of character inside means that presently it suits business travellers best.

More information and book here.

An Edinburgh Itinerary

The best thing about my brother’s Edinburgh University education is the excuse it gives me for four years of visiting rights to Scotland’s picturesque capital city. Rivalling London with its impressive selection of fine dining, cool bars and attractive historical sights, it is the ideal place for a weekend break in Britain.

9 am: after a heavenly buffet breakfast at the Caledonian Hotel pack your map and umbrella and set out for Princes Street, Edinburgh’s busiest shopping road.

10 am: Wander through the boutiques until you reach Artisan Roast for the perfect cup of coffee. But a note to Potter geeks; the cafe keenly states that ‘JK Rowling did not write here!’

10.30 am: If you dare, the dungeons are worth a visit. Catch one of the live shows for spooky stories and amusing anecdotes about Scotland’s murky past.

12.30 pm: Head to the Leith area for lunch by the waterside. Edinburgh boasts five Michelin starred eateries, The Kitchin is perhaps the healthiest, offering beautifully presented, seasonally inspired recipes. The lunch menu is very reasonable with three courses priced at £26 per person.

2 pm: Jump on the 22 bus back into town for an afternoon of sightseeing. The National Museum of Scotland is currently displaying an awesome Viking exhibition, but their permanent collection is enough to lure you in all year round.

3 pm: Potter around Grassmarket and exchange a tea and cake break with a trip to Oink! the thrifty but thoroughly Scottish snack of hog roast and haggis. Pop into the most popular vintage shop, Armstrong’s for a look through their racks of hand-me-downs.

4 pm: Trek up through the Royal Mile, past the bagpipers, to the renowned Edinburgh Castle… step back in time in this amazing medieval building which overlooks the entire city. Students avoid the place at all costs, adhering to the superstitious rumour that they will fail their finals if they step over the Castle threshold. Then just moments away is the Camera Obscura and World of Illusions, a mesmerising interactive exhibition; we especially loved the dizzying vortex tunnel.

7 pm: For cocktails the Last Word Saloon is the only place to go. Choose the deliciously well balanced John Candy concoction or pick their masterful rendition of the famous gin drink the bar is named after.

8.30 pm: There is no need to look further than the Caledonian Hotel for supper. With the talented Galvin brothers at the helm, you have the choice to dine at the smart Pompadour Restaurant or the more casual Brasserie de Luxe. We couldn’t fault the Parisian style dishes and the immaculate service. When tiredness sets in drift upstairs to bed.

For massive savings and minimal stress buy the Edinburgh Pass… undoubtedly the most efficient way to see all the city’s delights!

For more information see the Edinburgh tourist board website here.

Thoroughly Modern Milly travelled with East Coast Trains. East Coast operates regular services each weekday between London King’s Cross and Edinburgh. Customers travelling First Class can enjoy East Coast’s complimentary food and drinks offer plus unlimited Wi-Fi. Book advanced return fares online at www.eastcoast.co.uk. Times and fares can also be found via 08457 225225 or from any staffed stations.

Four Seasons Hotel Canary Wharf

At the weekends, Canary Wharf is a very different place. Gone are the bankers and their briefcases, instead a strange ghostly silence falls over this financial district. One place, however, is still very much alive and ready to give you an unforgettable weekend.

It was pouring with rain when we approached the grand Four Seasons Hotel. All I wanted was a warm place to relax and a glass of fizz in my hand. Thankfully this hotel provided both within moments of stepping inside.

A speedy check-in meant we were inside our executive suite without delay, admiring London’s overcast but enchanting skyline and enjoying the comforts of our Four Seasons bedroom.

Luxury is evident in every detail. Executive category rooms are spacious corner suites with striking riverfront views of the Thames. At 56 square metres, they offer the privacy of a separate living room for entertaining or meetings, with plenty of space for relaxing too. Our bedroom was particularly impressive, an inviting king size bed, numerous plush pillows and an epic flatscreen TV. An adjoining full limestone bathroom featured a big bath, separate power shower and (L’Occitane) toiletries. As a taster before our Italian cooking class, Head Chef (Moreno) had left Mediterranean tasters and gifts in our living room. The bruschetta and breadsticks wrapped in Italian ham were particularly appetising, a hint of what was to come with our pasta cooking course and our delicious meal at the hotel’s Quadrato Restaurant.

Guests of Four Seasons Canary Wharf can enjoy a variety of top-notch extracurricular activities including free access to the high tech Virgin Active gym (complete with impressive indoor infinity pool leading out to the Thames), a lovely piano lounge with live sport for the men and cocktail lists for the girls, not to mention a calming, petite spa for the ultimate relaxation. We were lucky enough to experience a couple’s massage – a pleasant start to our Sunday morning. With the sun rising over London, the views from here were even better. Using aromatic essential oils, two therapists gently and effectively kneaded away all tension in our backs. The treatments here are revitalising and stress relieving – ideal as an energising wake up in the morning, or to help you wind down after a busy day.

Breakfast is an array of foodie delights, continental or full English, whatever you feel like. I particularly enjoyed the do-it-yourself juicer which enables you to create your very own exotic drink. I can also highly recommend the delicious french toast and pancakes from the a la carte menu.

We were sad to wave goodbye to Canary Wharf, jumping on the conveniently located, charming clipper boat back to central London. I’ve always thought of this area of London as a suits only professional playground, but the Four Seasons Canary Wharf proves itself a luxury hotel for both business and pleasure.

More information and book here: www.fourseasons.com/canarywharf

Hot on the Highstreet Week 153

Mödernaked sounds Swedish, but it´s a Spanish brand
Mödernaked is not a porn site
Mödernaked is not H&M nor Zara
Mödernaked does not have a marketing department (we won´t be surprised if you never heard of us!)
Mödernaked does not have a sales department
Mödernaked thinks that people are wonderful (sometimes)
Mödernaked is not commun
Mödernaked listens to music all the time
Mödernaked dances all the time too
Mödernaked loves the little things in life
Mödernaked does not take drugs to create her designs
Mödernaked drinks 2 liters of H2O everyday
Mödernaked can be addictive
Mödernaked makes mistakes (big and small)
Mödernaked never loses the chance to go on vacation
Mödernaked loves happy endings

The statements above come direct from the Mödernaked website, an assortment of random facts that illustrate the quirky and unique character of this brand.

I discovered Mödernaked on a mini break to Seville with my mum last week, we both instantly fell for the adoring eyes of the cat rings. Sold in the ubercool Delimbo gallery-concept store, Mödernaked is just one of the tempting jewellery lines available to buy here.

A variety of animals are on offer, each handcrafted from polished brass and enamel with a varnish finish. They come in one size only but adjustable to fit any finger, making them incredibly versatile and wearable. Priced at 52 Euros, they are a lovely souvenir from our trip to Seville.

Buy your very own little cat ring here.

Follow Modernaked on twitter here.

Things to do in Manchester

Manchester is the ideal city to escape to for a weekend away from London. Thanks to Virgin Trains super speedy service, it is possible to reach the northern city in just two hours, zooming through the countryside from London Euston straight into the centre of town, Manchester Piccadilly. I spent three years living here studying at Manchester University and yet returning now I feel there is so much more to discover in this cosmopolitan, cool and constantly evolving city.

To Eat

Bakerie – Fresh bread, lovely wine and delectable sharing platters make this restaurant the ideal place to go at any time of day for good food and great atmosphere.
Dough – The best pizzas in town, made lovingly with the freshest ingredients. Choose from white, granary or gluten-free bases and indulge with extravagant toppings for your perfect personalised pizza.
Australasia – A stunning underground restaurant offering exquisitely refined and beautifully presented dishes. A unique menu blending Pacific Rim flavours, European cooking traditions and Southeast Asian influences.

To Drink

Teacup – The ultimate tea room. Located in the midst of the hustle and bustle of the Northern Quarter, sit at the big windows and watch the world go by as you enjoy a subtle brew of rosebud tea.
Kahlua Coffee House – KAHLUA, the Mexican coffee liqueur company, has teamed up with Manchester’s The Liquorists, The Coffee Circle and Teacup to launch ‘Kahlúa Coffee House’. The bright and cheery cafe is inspired by the heritage of Veracruz, Mexico and makes a great flat white.
North Star Bakery – This friendly delicatessen in Chorlton is great for a spot of breakfast or lunch. Reasonable prices, attentive staff and a selection of lovely gifts available to buy.
North Tea Power – Cafe of the moment, North Tea Power is known to be the best place for tea and coffee in the Northern Quarter. Remember your laptop and headphones and join the trendy crowd on Tib Street.

To Sip

Apotheca – The best cocktail selection in Manchester. The cool and collected bar staff put time and effort into every drink here, making delicious concoctions with creative flair.
The Alchemist – Stylish, smart and sensational, I’m in awe of the cocktails here. The smokey old-fashioned gets my winning vote.

To Watch

Opera House – Currently showing record-breaking hit musical CATS there is more reason than ever to visit Manchester’s Opera House.
The Palace Theatre – This centrally located theatre always has a great show on stage. The Lion King, Save the Last Dance for Me and Giselle are all coming up.

To Indulge

Bali Health Lounge – Manchester’s most luxurious spa. Located in the Chinatown, Bali Health Lounge is a calming retreat to relax and indulge.
Spa Satori – This spa offers an impressive list of treatments including specialist ones like Hopi Ear Candle therapy. The thoughtful staff will ensure your visit is memorable.

Thoroughly Modern Milly travelled with Virgin Trains.

Typical journey time between London and Manchester is just 2h 7m on one of the state-of-the-art tilting trains, six days a week. Engineering works slow things down a little on Sunday mornings, but by lunchtime they’re operating services – at 2h15m – just a shade slower than Monday to Saturday. Trains every 20 minutes, six and a half days a week.

Booking in advance and travelling off-peak is the best way to get great deals – including some fantastic First Class bargains. Single fares start at: Advance Standard £12.50  and Advance First £38.00, book here.