Tag Archives: Michelin star

An Edinburgh Itinerary

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The best thing about my brother’s Edinburgh University education is the excuse it gives me for four years of visiting rights to Scotland’s picturesque capital city. Rivalling London with its impressive selection of fine dining, cool bars and attractive historical sights, it is the ideal place for a weekend break in Britain.

9 am: after a heavenly buffet breakfast at the Caledonian Hotel pack your map and umbrella and set out for Princes Street, Edinburgh’s busiest shopping road.

10 am: Wander through the boutiques until you reach Artisan Roast for the perfect cup of coffee. But a note to Potter geeks; the cafe keenly states that ‘JK Rowling did not write here!’

10.30 am: If you dare, the dungeons are worth a visit. Catch one of the live shows for spooky stories and amusing anecdotes about Scotland’s murky past.

12.30 pm: Head to the Leith area for lunch by the waterside. Edinburgh boasts five Michelin starred eateries, The Kitchin is perhaps the healthiest, offering beautifully presented, seasonally inspired recipes. The lunch menu is very reasonable with three courses priced at £26 per person.

2 pm: Jump on the 22 bus back into town for an afternoon of sightseeing. The National Museum of Scotland is currently displaying an awesome Viking exhibition, but their permanent collection is enough to lure you in all year round.

3 pm: Potter around Grassmarket and exchange a tea and cake break with a trip to Oink! the thrifty but thoroughly Scottish snack of hog roast and haggis. Pop into the most popular vintage shop, Armstrong’s for a look through their racks of hand-me-downs.

4 pm: Trek up through the Royal Mile, past the bagpipers, to the renowned Edinburgh Castle… step back in time in this amazing medieval building which overlooks the entire city. Students avoid the place at all costs, adhering to the superstitious rumour that they will fail their finals if they step over the Castle threshold. Then just moments away is the Camera Obscura and World of Illusions, a mesmerising interactive exhibition; we especially loved the dizzying vortex tunnel.

7 pm: For cocktails the Last Word Saloon is the only place to go. Choose the deliciously well balanced John Candy concoction or pick their masterful rendition of the famous gin drink the bar is named after.

8.30 pm: There is no need to look further than the Caledonian Hotel for supper. With the talented Galvin brothers at the helm, you have the choice to dine at the smart Pompadour Restaurant or the more casual Brasserie de Luxe. We couldn’t fault the Parisian style dishes and the immaculate service. When tiredness sets in drift upstairs to bed.

For massive savings and minimal stress buy the Edinburgh Pass… undoubtedly the most efficient way to see all the city’s delights!

For more information see the Edinburgh tourist board website here.

Thoroughly Modern Milly travelled with East Coast Trains. East Coast operates regular services each weekday between London King’s Cross and Edinburgh. Customers travelling First Class can enjoy East Coast’s complimentary food and drinks offer plus unlimited Wi-Fi. Book advanced return fares online at www.eastcoast.co.uk. Times and fares can also be found via 08457 225225 or from any staffed stations.

Chez Bruce, Wandsworth

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Of all the London Michelin star restaurants I have visited, Chez Bruce wins my favourite. Both meals I have experienced here have been the perfect balance between fine cuisine and deliciously tasty food. Bruce proves that Michelin meals don’t have to be pretentious and overly experimental to win prizes. Located just a short walk from Wandsworth Common train station, the venue is less challenging to find than many may think and is only a brief journey from Victoria. The nearby green is perfect for an after lunch stroll.

Chez Bruce is part of a trio of wonderful London restaurants, which includes La Trompette in Chiswick and The Glasshouse in Kew. La Trompette is also a favourite of mine, and I have heard very good things about The Glasshouse. All three pride themselves on providing honest, exceptional food, prepared immaculately with a strong French influence.

A small and unassuming dining room is the home of Chez Bruce, it feels like you are eating in a cosy sitting room with simple design and comforting decor. The clientele seems to range enormously from young food enthusiasts to older knowledgeable restaurant regulars. It is clear immediately that every food lover is welcome here, and it emanates a lovely relaxed atmosphere.

The wine list is affordable and varied with something for every palate. Unexperienced and impressionable in this department, both times we have opted for simple fresh white and the champagne… and have found them to be delicious and very drinkable. Before the three courses begin, guests are treated to parmesan shortbread biscuits and ultra soft rosemary focaccia bread, they are both so good I would come to the restaurant just for these!

After two visits we have tried far too much incredible food to list here but a few favourites stand out. Salad of pork belly with jerusalem artichokes, salsa verde, chorizo, watercress and crackling was a beautifully constructed dish made from carefully selected ingredients, the meats and vegetables matched perfectly to create an addictively good starter. Tagliatelle of chanterelles with salsify, thyme and parmesan was another miraculously tasty dish, startlingly simple but just so good with homemade pasta and the creamiest, lightest sauce you can imagine.

For mains we have sampled amazing Venison loin with shoulder vol au vent, spiced carrot puree and sauce poivade which was a glorious wintery meaty recipe. Roast phesant with bacon and onion dumpling, brussel sprouts, chestnuts and sage was a brilliant version of the familiar festive meal, with every component beautifully cooked and seasoned.

The desserts at Chez Bruce are simple and stylish. Classics include an exquisite creme brulee, and more unusual ideas include a refreshing Yorkshire rhubarb and vanilla cheesecake with mandarin sorbet and orange zest or for cocoa lovers, a dangerously luxurious Hot chocolate and almond pudding with praline parfait. The meal finishes with a pot of homemade chocolate truffles which you can eat in the restaurant or take away as a little momento of the meal.

Bruce doesn’t just provide delicious food for hungry foodies, he inspires food lovers to try his easy recipes to create these amazing dishes themselves. I am a convert, and as soon as I have my own kitchen will be using his cookbook on a regular basis.

More information here: www.chezbruce.co.uk/

The Bingham restaurant, Richmond

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We both had a nightmare journey getting to the Bingham. My poor friend and her broken sat-nav got completely lost in Surrey suburbia while I battled with a horribly aggressive taxi driver, who insisted on getting out of his car and shouting at me as I ran to the hotel doors. I was relieved to be greeted by the smiling Bingham staff, who escorted me gently to the lounge and blazing log fire. Externally the Bingham Hotel has a low profile, this sophisticated Georgian Townhouse could easily be mistaken for a private property. Inside, there is a quiet buzz of activity as guests and visitors enjoy the comforting surroundings. I rested as I waited for the other distressed member of my lunch party.

Almost half an hour later than our original booking time and we were finally ready to go… we apologised profusely though the waiters seemed completely unfazed and instead offered warm welcomes and a lovely corner table overlooking the restaurant.

The smart light and airy dining room is luxuriously appointed with wooden flooring and French windows revealing a lovely al fresco balcony for summer… this stunning room raised our expectations. This restaurant once had a Michelin star, but two years ago lost it for no apparent reason, and in 2012 failed to regain it, again without explanation. We wondered why throughout our lunch.

Guests can choose between the reasonable but restricted market menu, the six course tasting menu or the a la carte. Interested by the variety in the a la carte, we both chose this option. Chef Shay Cooper uses the freshest seasonal ingredients to create irresistible Modern British cuisine and we thought this was best exemplified in the full menu.

To start:

Venison tartare with preserved vegetable salad, foie gras mousse, horseradish creme fraiche

Winter vegetable salad with crispy onions, organic leaves, goats curd, walnut vinaigrette

For main:

Cornish Stone Bass with braised endive, artichoke, glazed salsify, potato gnocchi, bergamot lemon, mushroom vinaigrette

Saddle of rabbit with grilled pear, cured ham, smoked celeriac, braised rabbit, truffle sauce

To finish:

Selection of British and Continental cheeses

Mascarpone Mousse with candied pistachios, espresso ice cream, hot valrhona chocolate sauce

Salted Butter Caramel with apple compote, cider cream, bitter chocolate vanilla ice cream

After a delicious vegetarian mousse amuse bouche we decided to leave the bread, avoiding the risk of becoming too full to enjoy the meal. Service was professional but relaxed and very efficient throughout. Our waiter seemed to possess impressive expert knowledge on all of the food and wines. The dishes were presented in an incredibly clean and attractive way, and thanks to the natural daylight in the restaurant each plate really did look beautiful.

The Winter salad was one of the best I’ve ever tried… a variety of different colours, textures and tastes make what could be a very boring choice into an imaginative feast of flavour. The soft creamy goats curd was matched with crunchy leaves and sweet caramelised vegetables, every mouthful was different. The venison was carefully arranged with the other components, green lettuce and pink onion adding colour, another artistic masterpiece.

Mains were the perfect size, both wholesome, well balanced dishes. The delicate and light Stone Bass was served with a variety of subtly flavoured vegetables to avoid overpowering the fish and a rich and creamy gnocchi cheese on the side for eating with the fish or separately afterwards. The rabbit was exquisite, wrapped in Iberico ham and precisely cooked so that the rabbit was tender but the ham was crispy and almost caramelised. The grilled pear was a surprisingly delicious addition to the dish and the truffle sauce added a touch of extra indulgence.

After a round of the best cheeses to share, from the Teddington Cheese shop up the road, it was time for puddings. The list of sweet options all sounded so tempting that it took some time to choose our final two… and even then we promised we’d share. Interestingly we both had our favourites… for me the clear winner was the salted butter caramel, a wicked dessert with an odd but brilliant mix of flavours. The chocolate salted caramel disc in the centre was soft and buttery and worked well with the acidic apple compote and the sweet cider cream. Definitely in my top three desserts I’ve eaten, ever. The mascarpone mousse was completely unique and faultlessly tasty too. Hot chocolate sauce is poured over the hard chocolate casing to melt a piercing hole. The light creamy mousse is mixed indulgently with the chocolate, and the nuts add a bit of exotic crunch.

With our strong coffees we received a final plate of treats… tiny heavenly handmade petit fours: macaroons, bailey truffles and fruit jellies.

The Bingham restaurant is better than many 2 Michelin star restaurants I have eaten in and I feel completely baffled by the board’s decision to withdraw the one star. This eatery deserves the highest recognition for offering the finest food, a magnificent menu and exemplary service. I would recommend this restaurant to even the fussiest foodies and the meanest critics.
More information here.

www.thebingham.co.uk

Drakes, Ripley

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Drakes is in Ripley near Woking, but please don’t let the location put you off… I would travel to and from Woking every day for food this good. The cuisine is amongst the best I’ve ever experienced and the restaurant is utterly charming.

On a Saturday lunchtime there were numerous menu options available, the set and tasting menus are named flavour discoveries and explore seasonal produce.

Steve Drake is an energetic enthusiast in the kitchen, keen to create food which is both healthy and innovative. When we visited, his latest toy was a clay oven used to immaculately cook the cauliflower in one of our courses.

The a la carte menu looked exemplary but I was pleased to find a special flavour journey had already been decided for us… this way I could skip the agonising choosing process and try a larger selection of small dishes, rather than the standard three courses. I would definitely recommend ordering this way, it is a more exciting and refreshing way of sampling what’s on offer. Drakes believe this way of eating offers: intrigue, adventure, flavour, simplicity and discovery.

Our Flavour Journey

Snacks

Quail, Rhubarb Gel, Foie Gras, Compressed Lettuce

Scallop, Clay Baked Cauliflower, Raisin Puree, Curry Oil

Monkfish, Pumpkin Yolk, Crisp Mussels, Alexanders

Slow Cooked Mutton Shoulder, Heirloom Carrots, Tarragon Oil

Parsnip Ice Cream, Blackberries, Sorrel Ice

Pear cooked in ‘Beurre Noisette’ Goat’s Milk, Hibiscus, Crystalised Vodka

Chocolate Breakfast

So as you can see there is far too much too talk about in this review… instead I will pay attention to the most vivid memories that remain with me a week after dining at Drakes. The ‘Snacks’ they refer to so bashfully in the menu were exquisite, and all in miniature: pork fritters with cider vinegar jam, quinoa crackers with dandelion puree, duck’s heart with chicken broth and red pepper brioche balls. It was a borrower’s meal in itself, fun and full of flavour.

My fish was kindly substituted with vegetarian ingredients, the staff delicately enquire at the start of the meal if any guests have specific dietary requirements. Of the itemised courses the quail, monkfish and pear really stood out for me.

The quail is cooked to perfection with a subtle caramelly sauce. It is elegantly presented with small slices of creamy foie gras and wonderful compressed lettuce. The monkfish is a dish of surprises, a beautiful piece of fish with a pumpkin sauce pretending to be a yolk (the encased pumpkin bubble is heated to 50 degrees so that only the middle melts). The sugary buttery pear is to die for, a typically French idea juxtaposed with peculiarly refreshing goat’s milk ice cream and shockingly fabulous tiny crystallised vodka pieces. The only course I was less wild about was the mutton which in comparison to the rest was a little bland.

The wine journey paralleling the food was a real highlight of the meal for us. Eight highly original and exciting choices were delivered just before each plate of food. The sommelier was not only precise and professional but showed huge, genuine enthusiasm and passion for wine. His approach was humorous throughout proffering anecdotes and stories about each bottle. His expert knowledge was obvious when he spoke of discovering unknown wines such as the South Australian First Drop ‘The Mother of all Harvests’ and Austria’s exquisite Weinland ‘Theodora’. For the first time ever I understood the wine while appreciating it. Drakes has a truly special sommelier who I’m sure would bring wonderfully unexpected wines to accompany any meal.

I truly am in awe of the Drakes team for creating such a spectacular restaurant and a miraculous, magical menu. I think the photos prove my point.

More information here.

www.drakesrestaurant.co.uk

Le Paris, Lutetia Hotel, Paris

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Hotel Lutetia in Saint Germain des Pres is an empire embodying Parisian style and luxury. This grand building was built in 1910 as the first Art Deco hotel in Paris. The stature and elegance remains intact today and it is a very desirable place to stay and eat.

Prestigious restaurant “Le Paris” gained a Michelin star for its spectacular rendition of contemporary French cuisine. The food is offered in a beautiful, intimate dining room, with designs by trendy fashion designer Sonia Rykiel. Harking back to a bygone era, it is a place of seductive sophistication.

Executive chef Philippe Renard has said of his menu: “My passion is to create around seasonal products but especially starting from the traditional cuisine that I like to revisit and to adapt to current tastes. My tendency is to focus on the good product. I campaign for the “eating well” and I am convinced that it is essential to eat everything in small quantities.”

With this in mind Le Paris menu has two options, small or large portions, available from starter through to dessert. A sensible suggestion for foodies with smaller appetites or those wishing to try a range of dishes from the menu. After a glass of bubbly, we were faced with the tricky task of choosing from the dazzling menu.

Our final selection was as follows:

To start:
Erquy scallops marinated with Clementine, with Chablis white wine mustard sauce, old fashioned vegetables and Roscoff seaweed tartar
Landes duck “foie gras” with black truffle mushroom from Vaucluse, cannelloni, and artichoke with hazelnut

For main:
Pyrenees milk fed lamb roasted with thyme, salsify with parmesan cheese and pine nuts, Brussel sprouts mashed potato
“Cros de la Geline” guinea fowl, roasted with Vaucluse black truffle mushrooms, green cabbage with “ventreche” slice of pork and chestnuts

Marie Anne Cantin cheese selection and Poujaran bread

To finish:
Saint-Honore with chestnuts and a light cream with rum and raisins
The “chocolate experience”

The scallops were a challenging raw fish starter with a sort of mustard coleslaw, a bizarre combination of flavours. The foie gras suited us better, a very rich but perfectly balanced dish with a subtle smokiness from the artichoke, the contrasting soft, sweet foie gras and a kick from the wonderfully woody black truffle, ultra-thin, placed delicately on top.

The mains were both enormous portions, we opted for the larger size which in retrospect was definitely a mistake. Comforting, juicy meat paired with cheesy vegetables, the lamb was absolutely delicious, but my favourite part of the course was the brussel sprout mashed potato, which was surprisingly tasty, creamy and addictive! The guinea fowl was lovely too, a bird which is not used enough in restaurants. Again this recipe included black truffles as they are in season, and was placed on a bed of complimenting soft cabbage with salty pork.

Wines were chosen by the sommelier as we went along, a selection of winning French varieties. Although the restaurant felt very smart, with guests only speaking in hushed voices, the staff tried hard to make our meal more relaxed and less formal, for which I was very grateful.

Mouthfuls of caramely delight arrived as a palate cleanser, the ideal mix of creamy ice-cream, mango and spun sugar. The Lutetia desserts were spectacular, amazing constructions carefully arranged to look as impressive as they tasted. My chocolate experience was a heavenly trio of puddings, rich but manageable. The Saint Honore cake is a famous French treat that our waiter insisted we tried. It was light and airy, decorated immaculately with edible gold leaf.

The gastronomic delights of Le Paris are served up in an enchanting setting which will take you back to the glamorous 1930′s. A wonderful restaurant in a magnificent hotel, both are well worth travelling to experience.

More information and book here.

Benoit, Paris

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Alain Ducasse is known for his prestigious fine cuisine, what I experienced at Benoit was not as posh but just as delicious. This restaurant is one of the few  remaining true Parisian bistros; warm and friendly with a welcoming atmosphere, it was the perfect place for the last meal of our weekend in Paris, but made me regret leaving the city even more.

There is something very special about eating in a traditional French bistro, a genuinely lovely ambience and a passion for food. Like many of his other eateries, Benoit has been awarded a Michelin star (the only brasserie with a star in Paris) – it is an accolade which many Paris restaurants can boast, but no other chef has achieved 3 stars on both sides of the Channel proving that the venerable Alain Ducasse is certainly one of a kind.

It is easy to spot the red Benoit restaurant sign from the street. On the corner of Rue Saint-Martin, the place has a glazed buttery glow; a foodie haven. Inside the tables are limited, the decor charming – white draped tables, mirrored walls and gold newspaper holders. The menu predominantly features rustic, typically French dishes: think snails and sweetbreads.

The head waiter was charismatic but professional… clearing a preferential table for us and immediately offering us white or pink champagne. When I picked pink bubbly he brought both, protesting that both were equally special, so we must try both! Flicking through the lovely Benoit cookbook helped us select our meal.

To start:
Snails with garlic butter and herbs
Sausage and pistachio brioche roll with baby lamb’s lettuce salad

For main:
Cassoulet
Fillet of Beef with macaroni cheese

To finish:
Benoit profiteroles
Tarte Tatin with fresh cream

This was the backbone of the lunch, alongside which we were given extra ornaments, appetisers and treats to whet our appetites and satisfy our senses. Everything was delicious, prepared using the highest quality ingredients and the most precise methods of cooking. Foie gras on toast, fresh crusty bread with an incredible slice of salted butter and tasters of terrine were first brought.

The starters could be smelt all the way from the kitchen. Dangerously buttery and garlicky snails, presented wonderfully on the special platter. It was the first time either of us had tried these little creatures, I was a little sceptical of the rubbery texture, but the garnish was undeniably tasty. The brioche encased sausage was very good, a simple dish which suited me well, complemented by the lovely crunchy salad.

The fillet of beef was full of flavour and incredibly tender, dressed with a sweet, rich onion gravy. The macaroni didn’t last long, painfully indulgent but irresistibly scrumptious, definitely the best we have ever tasted. Cassoulet is a peasant dish, a hot pot of different meats and beans. It was flavoursome and wholesome, though needed a touch more seasoning for my liking. Very filling but with little fat it is an easy recipe to cook for a group of friends.

Sommelier Pierre Charles Gandilhon selected exquisite wine to match the food, white to start and red to follow. It goes without saying that most good French restaurants have a brilliant wine list, but these were particularly well paired to bring out the flavours of our food, without being overpowering.

From the choice of French patisseries, we sampled the signature profiteroles and classic tarte tatin. The generous portions were initially alarming but we managed to make our way through, and even taste the final coffee chocolate pudding. Made with care and attention the sweets were faultless.

No meal is complete without a fresh-out-the-oven madeleine, and as we were getting up to leave our waiter brought a tray round, smelling of sweet vanilla. We left with Alain’s Benoit cookbook and a bag of petits fours in our hands, as our waiter waved goodbye.

Benoit evokes a flavour of France and all the things it represents. Our lunch here was truly unforgettable and the recipe book will forever remain with me as a souvenir of this perfect Parisian lunch.

More information here.

http://www.benoit-paris.com/

Sketch, Lecture Room & Library, Mayfair

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There is so much to say about Sketch, and so much that has already been said. One thing is for sure… it is unlike any other venue in London, with enough style and swagger to make you quake in your boots. Pierre Gagnaire is the Willy Wonka of the restaurant world creating magical and imaginative food that will make your heart race and your jaw drop.

This Mayfair restaurant wows from the instant you step inside…  beautiful wallpapers, glittering lighting, impressive sculptures and wonderfully wacky modern artwork fills this converted Georgian townhouse.

The most desirable of the dining options is undoubtedly the Michelin awarded Lecture Room & Library. The menu has a distinctive style, adapted from Gagnaire’s renowned eatery in Paris. Each of the a la carte dishes is presented as a series of culinary ideas…. a very thoughtful way of cooking which fully explores the flavour and uses of the ingredients.

After exquisitely inventive cocktails in the waiting parlour we were escorted to our table. The meal began in a flurry of craziness: plates, bowls and dishes of artful nibbles, miniatures to intrigue the palate.

My White Autumn starter was more bizarre than brilliant, a study on the flavours of cauliflower, onions and grapes… paired with lassi ice-cream, camembert chantilly and bechamel. The wintery whiteness of the food was startling and beautiful, but the tepid temperature almost alarming. The Hare Terrine option was more appetising… an assortment of more familiar flavours, the sweet onion gratin was a particularly delicious component.

For main course the meat menu offers: pig, deer, lamb or beef. We chose Pig and Deer, both warming and rich. Contradicting all expectations the meats are presented and adapted to catch the guest out. The duo of star anise and Japanese squash intensified the flavour of the deer loin while the crunchy pig ear with kimchi and black Radish looked and tasted unlike anything I have ever encountered before.

Cheese was perhaps the most titillating course… a dual trolley offering selections of British cheeses and French alternatives. Diners are invited to choose from the British but are treated to slices from both boards. Needless to say it was a delicious exercise in contrast and comparison.

My dessert was a fairground of delights: seven bowls of different shapes and sizes were arranged delicately on the table in front of me ready for tasting. Some were divine, others tastes to acquire… roasted pineapple with ricotta and coconut milk and lemon parfait with olive oil and candied angelica mousseline were particularly memorable.

Prepare for a sensory ride, surprises of every kind await you… as we emerged into the grubby London street, I couldn’t help feeling I was leaving Narnia behind me, an unforgettable world of fabulousness and foolery.

Sketch is found at 9 Conduit Street, W1S 2XG. Book months in advance, save up for years in preparation.

http://sketch.uk.com/

Onyx, Budapest

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What with the inconvenient snowfall and the pathetic English panic, our flight to Budapest was looking unlikely. I spent the day refreshing the Gatwick page frantically praying for a change in weather conditions. Luckily, though many routes were cancelled, our plane to Budapest was going ahead, albeit an hour or two late.

The majority of my concern was based around the possibility of missing our dinner reservation at one of Hungary’s two Michelin star restaurants. Awarded the prestigious star in 2011, Onyx is the second restaurant in the country to receive this precious accolade (the first being Costes). This elegant, petite restaurant is located upstairs in the famous Gerbeaud Coffeehouse on Budapest’s Showroom Square. Chef Szabina Szullo is creative and ambitious, presenting typical Hungarian dishes with a twist. The portions are small, the food rich, and you will be treated to numerous courses, we counted at least six.

The warm carpeted interior and marble-clad design is lavish and inviting. We found the restaurant very comfortable and relaxed. The menu du jour sat inconspicuously on the table, and the waiter was polite and understanding when I asked if I could change my starter choice. Wine pairings were selected for us by the expert sommelier, and I was delighted with his Hungarian choices. To start a glass of exceptional Cremant arriving, very light with tiny bubbles. The bread trolley was very impressive with at least ten types to choose from, baffled by the range, we let the waiter pick a basket. Each with a different flavour and texture this was a bread experience unlike any other with the added excitement of accompaniments: pate, butter and cottage cheese.

Before the starters arrived, we were given a trio of tasters each, artfully arranged mini bites. A shot glass of warm cauliflower cream soup, razor clam with carpaccio and a pea puree with poached quail’s egg. Immaculate to look at, and sensational for the palate. The starter that followed was perhaps my favourite part of the meal: two appropriately warming soups (it was minus 6 outside), bean soup with langoustine and grilled bacon and pumpkin oil soup with rabbit belly. My pumpkin soup was absolutely divine, so subtly spiced and prettily presented with lean rabbit meat and crunchy pumpkin seeds for textural contrast. The bean soup was also impressive, the terracotta orange liquid poured over the delicate crustacean and foam decoration.

For the main course a hearty Hungarian red wine was brought to us and poured into posh, giant wine glasses. This was the ideal accompaniment for the Saddle of lamb with sweetbreads and lung stuffed ravioli, aubergine and lemon grass jus. This plate looked surprisingly small and yet the exquisite food filled us up, two wonderful chunks of peppered meat, red and juicy with a thick and satisfying texture. Alongside the lamb were lovely handmade ravioli, smokey aubergine puree (the only part I wasn’t 100% sure about), lightly grilled shallot, and courgette with the flower cooked to perfection. The sauce tasted slightly oriental and added a warmth to the meat.

Pre-dessert most often consists of an odd flavoured sorbet but Onyx excelled in conjuring up something appetising that still cleansed your palate. A tiny bowl of passionfruit cream, mango sorbet, white chocolate mousse, caramel sauce, pineapple, chocolate brownie and shortbread crumbs. A pause between courses for just a few mouthfuls of heaven.

For pudding we were given the the Onyx rendition of Tiramisu, which used the familiar flavours of the Italian dessert but in an entirely different way: ultra rich chocolate torte style cake with a moreish biscuit base and caramel layer, topped with a perfect sphere of mascapone, white coffee ice-cream and amaretto jelly with vanilla cream. What is there not to like? The dessert featured all my favourite flavours used in a unique and artistic way to create a pudding that was wonderfully indulgent and miraculously original.

Last but certainly not least came the trolley of petit fours, there was extensive choice. Intricate tiny cakes and sweets mimicking the traditional Hungarian dessert recipes. Adorable and delicious, each completely different in taste. As a parting gift, we were given little black onyx boxes, filled with two final sweets, a green tea macaroon and a pistachio praline chocolate, perfect for the taxi ride home.

Our Michelin meal at Onyx was a memorable highlight of the trip and I would recommend this magnificent eatery to anyone visiting Budapest. It is a chance to experience the finest Hungarian recipes and ingredients in a sophisticated setting with faultless service.

More information here.

http://www.onyxrestaurant.hu/

Benares Chef Season, Mayfair

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Atul Kochhar’s fine Indian restaurant Benares is pitched just right. And although I can’t vouch for the regular a la carte menu, I was very impressed by the Chef Season miniatures I tried there last week. Since opening in 2003, Benares has offered modern,stylish and refined Indian cuisine. Atul is passionate about redefining the common perceptions of Indian cooking and with the Chef Season, he welcomes some of the country’s leading cooks to create a series of fusion menus to be served at the sophisticated Benares Bar.

Each chef works closely with Atul to prepare a menu of small plates reflecting a combination of both Atul’s famous flavours and their own signature style. Culinary masters such as Anna Hansen (The Modern Pantry), Richard Corrigan (Corrigan’s) and David Thompson (Nahm) have all been involved.

I was lucky enough to visit and taste both Dhruv Baker’s menu and the few special dishes created by Atul.

Dhruv’s Menu

Seared Pigeon Breast with Spiced Pea Puree and Tamarind Sauce

Mussalam Lamb, Saffron Pomme Anna and Beetroot Chutney

Squid Stuffed with Fennel Seed, Chilli, Salmon and Prawn Mousselline

Pan Fried Bream with Compound Butter, Saffron and Cumin, Buttered Crushed Potatoes

Crispy Aubergine with Truffled Honey and Bhartha Puree

Pan Fried Duck Breast, Black Cardamon Plum Sauce and Pickled Carrot Puree

Dhruv’s Feature Cocktail:

Bacardi Oakheart, fresh Cloudy Apple Juice, freshly squeezed Lime Juice, Angostura Bitters, Dhurv’s homemade Spices Syrup.

Atul’s Menu

Blue Cheese, Fresh Figs, Quince Chutney on Naan Bread

Apricot, Yoghurt, and Stuffed Spinach Patty

Chicken Tikka Parcels, Damson Chutney

3 dishes for £21.00

The tapas-esque portions arrived in trio sets, presented on smart dark wooden trays. The food exceeded my expectations, and I can’t remember enjoying a Michelin star tasting session quite so much ever. The small quantities allow guests to indulge without feeling gluttonous, and food always tastes better when you are left wanting more. The refined, compact flavours of each recipe had been finely tuned to achieve spectacular dishes. From Dhruv’s menu the crunchy crackling aubergine crisps were stand-out… I even begged the waiter to explain the recipe and process in the hope of creating these clever canapés at home. I also particularly remember the lamb and duck, both of which were cooked immaculately with innovative and inventive seasoning to perfectly match the qualities of the meat. The accompanying cocktail was surprisingly delicious and well suited, a rum based kind of Daiquiri flavoured with a unique spices syrup.

Atul’s menu was equally tasty and even more wacky. The Indian inspired pizza was a hit with my guest and I loved the soft richly flavoured spinach patty, but it was the chicken tikka parcels that really had the wow factor. Warm and buttery chicken encased in the lightest crispiest filo pastry, totally divine.

And just as I was dreaming about the prospect of a sweet mouthful, a little afterthought arrived at our table… petit fours of biscuit, chocolate and fruity rice crispy squares.

This Chef Season menu was absolutely delicious, with the finesse of French cooking, the boldness of British cooking and the essence and flavours of India. I’m desperate to return to review the full Benares menu now.

Visit the Benares website here for more information.

http://www.benaresrestaurant.com/

The Square Cookbook: Savoury, by Phil Howard

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The Square is one of the most special restaurants I have had the privilege of visiting. The food is exquisitely executed and beautifully presented and the restaurant is a light and lovely place to dine. Phil Howard founded this renowned establishment in 1991 and it continues to thrill regular and first-time customers. After 21 years of culinary brilliance and critical success, no-one can dispute that this is an eatery worthy of its two star accolade. With the publication of his first book The Square, Phil Howard continues to inspire, now you can have a go at recreating his masterpieces in your own home.

The a la carte menu is full of seasonal British ingredients, and it is a real treat selecting from such an extensive selection. I chose the intriguing sounding Hand Rolled Macaroni with Sticky Chicken Wings, new season’s Mousserons, Cauliflower and Vacherin. My friend ordered the Saute of Scottish Langoustine Tails with Parmesan Gnocchi and an Emulsion of Potato and Truffle, this is the dish Phil told me was his current favourite, so I was delighted to try it. It was as exceptional as expected, subtle and delicious with the freshest plump langoustine. Our food was enhanced by perfectly matched wine.

Our main courses were so spectacular they provoked quite a reaction from the neighbouring table, an enthusiastic couple who desperately enquired about which dishes we had chosen; tourists in London I asked them how they had discovered the Square – apparently the concierge at their hotel had recommended it as a London foodie must. I couldn’t resist trying the Breast of Grouse with Turnip and Celery, Pearl Barley, Pancetta and Blackberries: a gamey delicacy only found on menus for a very short period each year. My guest chose Roast Loin of Pata Negra Pork with Baked Quince, Lardo Wrapped Prunes, Croquettes and Sherry. I was surprised by the unusually large portions, perhaps because I usually opt for the lighter lunch menu. Both dishes were prepared immaculately with genius flavour pairings and careful consideration of the meat’s qualities.

We didn’t rush our meal, I wanted to savour every moment… our cheese and dessert courses were spent alone in the restaurant as the final guests meandered merrily out. The puddings at The Square are blissfully simple but effective… Plum Souffle with Almond Ice-cream and the famous Chocolate Bar, both indulgent and very tasty which is all I desire from a dessert.

The cookbook is a magnificent bible from a master of flavour and simplicity. It proves that Michelin star cooking is achievable at home. This is the first book of two, the Savoury edition before the Sweet. It is clear that Phil has poured his passion and expertise into every page of this epic publication with detailed analysis of the recipes, useful tips and stunning photographs. This glorious book is a classic and deserves a place on every kitchen shelf.

Speaking to Phil about his journey with The Square restaurant, it was immediately very clear to me why this restaurant has enjoyed continuous success in a city which has changed its culinary taste so dramatically over the last 20 years. Phil admitted it is sometimes scary to stand still while everyone around you is moving on with such speed. But if anything, this book cements the belief that the best British food doesn’t have to involve scientific experiments and molecular concepts to excite – the best food is still, and will always be created from a love of good ingredients, inventive combinations and an ambition to create food that tastes sublime.

To complement the new book Phil stars in a newly launched, specially commissioned six part digital mini series and podcast. Entitled “Kitchen Foundation”, the films feature Phil demonstrating how to establish the foundations of a successful kitchen. Phil’s cookbook represents the culmination of more than twenty years spent at the helm of one of the UK’s finest 2 Michelin Star restaurants.

See all the films here: http://www.squarerestaurant.com/Cookbook/Videos.aspx

http://www.squarerestaurant.com/