Tag Archives: fine dining

Spring, Somerset House

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Skye Gyngell is known for her Michelin success at the leafy oasis of Petersham Nurseries, but she has left suburbia for the thrill of the city, opening her first solo venture, Spring this year. The 100 cover eatery occupies a lovely 19th century drawing room in Somerset House, which has been closed to the public for the last 150 years, while occupied by the Inland Revenue.

The restaurant focusses on ingredient led cooking, and though the location has changed, Skye’s menu is still inspired by nature and gardens. Many of the products, including breads and cheeses are made onsite. The grand historic dining room has been beautifully restored to match the light seasonal cooking with carefully designed textured walls, pastel shades and fresh delicate lighting.

After enjoying the homemade wholegrain bread and thick whipped butter we turned our attention to the menu. The recipes have an obvious Mediterranean influence, especially my favourite starter, the delicious and vibrantly flavoured Pappardelle with nduja, rocket and mascarpone. The homemade pasta was cooked al dente, just as I like it, with a thick creamy sauce with a spicy kick from the soft Italian meat and a peppery hint from the tendrils of rocket.

The main courses are eye-wateringly expensive (between 24 and 35 pounds) but the large portion sizes partially make up for the price tag. Braised shin of veal with preserved lemons, black olives, polenta and gremolata is a well-balanced dish. The veal was wonderfully soft, falling apart, presented on a bed of creamy polenta and accented with sharp citrus. The leg of lamb is a meatier dish, served with cavolo nero, borlotti beans and cumin salsa verde. This dish was rustic and colourful, a full-bodied flavoursome cut of meat. I felt the presentation here was a little clumsy, the dish would have looked more refined with less beans and more precision with the vegetable arrangement. We skipped pudding, though a sneaky peek at the adjacent table convinced me that the warm chocolate cake with caramel ice cream would be a good bet for next time.

Skye’s culinary talents complement the artistic nature of Somerset House. Spend a sophisticated day visiting the outstanding Courtauld Collection or the Egon Schiele exhibition and treat yourself with a delicious lunch at Spring.

More information here: springrestaurant.co.uk

Murano, Mayfair

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Angela Hartnett is, without a doubt, one of London’s most talented chefs. I absolutely loved Café Murano, her stylish Italian eatery in St James’, so I was very excited about trying the fine dining version, Murano, in Mayfair. Saving the opportunity for a special occasion, we visited with high expectations.

The rain outside was persistent and I was delighted to be inside with a glass of fizzy in my hand. The restaurant is decorated simply in subtle shades of cream and grey, with little character in the décor it feels distinctly corporate, which is disappointing considering the creativity in the kitchen. Located in the very heart of Mayfair, Murano is a hotspot for business meals and meetings. Every table around us seemed to be full of serious businessmen and women discussing important matters, whilst barely giving the food in front of them any attention. We relished the opportunity to flick through Angela Hartnett’s attractive cookbooks whilst nibbling on delicious homemade breads and arancini mouthfuls.

The seasonal menu offers a range of sophisticated dishes, from which guests can choose to have any number of courses, two for £50, three for £65 and so on. The menu is split into categories: pasta, meat, fish and the plate size can be adapted according to the menu choices the guest makes. We chose a pasta and meat dish each and shared a dessert. It is worth bearing in mind when you are choosing your food that the chef tends to send out little taster treats throughout so leave a bit of space.

The pasta dishes are the highlight at Murano. The very kind waiter delivered us three half-size portions: Hand rolled pappardelle, braised hare, Treviso, golden raisins; Carnaroli risotto, Parmigiano Reggiano, ceps; and Baked potato gnocchi, homemade coppa, curly kale. Beautifully presented in bright white bowls they looked as sensational as they tasted. My favourite was the delicately grilled gnocchi which was served with shards of salty parmesan, thinly sliced coppa meat and soft dark green kale to add colour and vitamins. The pappardelle is a great dish for those with a big appetite, coated in a rich meaty sauce sweetened with raisins and topped with copious amounts of grated parmesan.

For main course I tried the loin of venison, roasted Jerusalem artichokes, ceps, pears, and my guest devoured the crispy pork belly, celeriac purée, langoustine, grapes, kale tempura. The pork was particularly memorable, cooked to perfection and accompanied with satisfying crispy kale tempura. After a short pause we indulged with the fluffy soufflé.

Murano is evidence of Angela Hartnett’s resounding success on the restaurant scene, though if you are keen to try her magical pasta dishes I would recommend visiting Café Murano where the recipes are equally delicious and the prices are much more purse friendly.

More information and book a table at Murano here.

Edvard Restaurant, Vienna

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It seems fitting that in a prestigious city like Vienna there are many restaurants to suit a cultured clientele. Edvard is one of the top in this category, located in the outstanding Kempinski Hotel, this One Michelin starred restaurant serves immaculate dishes using the finest local meat and fish.

Sashaying through the ornate lobby, we made our way to the dining room and were seated at a table near the front, behind us the other tables were all full. We found the waiters to be discreet and charming which ensured the dining room mood was civilised and sophisticated at all times.

Immaculate tiny amuse-bouche tasters were brought to us, arranged with the utmost care, followed by wonderfully warm crusty bread, and indulgent canary yellow butter. A tempting tasting menu offers 4 or 7 courses, which can be paired with wine. We opted for the extravagant a la carte menu which features fresh and exciting flavour combinations. I loved the simplicity of the menus, decorated with lovely little food related illustrations.

After a glass of extra bubbly Champagne, our complex starter arrived. We both ordered the Beets with cream cheese, herbs, pumpernickel and malt – a dish that arrived on two plates each. The food was a rich palette of reds and maroons, with varying textures and shapes. I particularly liked the oriental style beetroot rolls which were presented entwined in an alarming snake-like jelly. Then on the slate plate, a thin malt biscuit topped with vibrant beetroot sorbet and pretty edible flowers; a group of unusual tastes that tasted light and herbaceous.

For main course we tried two opposite recipes. The codfish with white carrots, black rice, mussels, yuzu and coriander was an ethereal dish. Clean and healthy, a perfect option for a dieter. The fish was perfectly cooked and the green vegetables and sauce gave a kick of seasoning. My venison with topinambour, apple, hibiscus, brussel sprouts and cacao was a sinfully luxiously option on the other side of the table: silky smooth meat and vegetables paired with sweet chocolatey crumbs and apple puree – it looked as beautiful as it tasted, a rainbow of hues.

And for dessert, some serious chocolate. Described as ‘Textures of Valhrona Chocolate’ I knew this would be focussed on one ingredient. The pastry chef had fun with this dish creating as many textures as possible: chocolate jelly, mousse, ice-cream and biscuit. It was a powerful and rich pudding and I was glad we had only ordered one to share. The intense flavour was contrasted slightly by red berries, though I still craved a dollop of thick cream.

Edvard is an occasion restaurant, ideal for smart business meetings or special celebrations. The food here is innovative and interesting, a treat for the tastebuds. Chef Philipp Vogel offers a range of dishes that are far less traditional than the restaurant appears.

More information and book a table here.

Many thanks to the Vienna Tourist Board for their help with this trip.