Category Archives: Food

The Caledonian, Edinburgh

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The Caledonian is the grand dame of hotels in Edinburgh. This epic historic building on Princes Street is the perfect place to stay for a weekend trip to Scotland. After a recent £20million renovation the hotel, restaurants and Guerlain spa are looking better than ever, making it the ideal time to visit.

The grand entrance instantly reminded me of Paris, with elaborate marble flooring and an impressive chandelier. Check-in was swift and we were soon admiring the unbeatable view from our top-floor suite. The emphasis is on comfort, with soft materials and lovely furnishings, nostalgic black and white photos on the walls, and a lovely natural glow from the daylight streaming in through the windows.

The bedroom is simple and sophisticated with just the necessary bed, desk, wardrobes and bedside table. No clutter to confuse guests, just the luxurious essentials. Colours are stylish shades of muted grey, cream and dusty blue and in the sitting room area a nespresso machine, tv, speakers for your ipod and sofa encourage you to sit down and relax.

The bathroom is even brighter with large windows sunken into the sloped ceiling. I was disappointed not to find a bathtub but the power shower is wonderful with a huge rainforest fitting that soaks you in seconds. Salvatore Ferragamo Tuscan Soul toiletries are gentle and fragrant on hair and body and huge enveloping bathrobes are wonderfully comfortable, the perfect attire for an evening in.

Foodies will delight in the two restaurant options from renowned chefs Chris and Jeff Galvin. We experienced breakfast and lunch in the lovely Brasserie de Luxe though sadly didn’t have time to try the more prestigious Pompadour. Everything and anything is available for your morning meal, we chose a selection of flaky pastries and hot french toast, though the highlight for me was the fresh red berry smoothie made to order at the fruit counter.

For lunch the menu focuses on classic French recipes to match the Parisian design and character of the great room. The dishes lend themselves to sharing and it is a great way to try an assortment of the Galvins’ culinary ideas. Snails were just as they should be, buttery, garlicky and utterly scrumptious. Then for mains the speciality grilled langoustine was indulgent and fresh and my breast of guinea fowl with pommes fondant and hispi cabbage was sweet and succulent, carefully seasoned and cooked perfectly.

Sides should be mentioned, creamed potato and sautéed tender stem broccoli were especially tasty and provided some much needed green accompaniment to the meal. The sommelier is happy to appropriately match your food to wine and we tasted a delicious light white with our meal after a welcoming glass of champagne.

Desserts are tempting and traditional, with chocolate and fruity options to suit all cravings. Of the dishes we tried, I particularly loved the Tarte Tatin aux Pommes, a classic caramelised cake with a dollop of contrasting cream.

On departure I was heartbroken to hear I was expected to stay two nights… I could not imagine anything more wonderful than a second night in this dreamy hotel… in fact I would have happily stayed the whole week in Edinburgh’s Caledonian, you feel like queen of the castle.

More information and book here.

Thanks to the Edinburgh Tourist Board.

Thoroughly Modern Milly travelled with East Coast Trains. East Coast operates regular services each weekday between London King’s Cross and Edinburgh. Customers travelling First Class can enjoy East Coast’s complimentary food and drinks offer plus unlimited Wi-Fi. Book advanced return fares online at www.eastcoast.co.uk. Times and fares can also be found via 08457 225225 or from any staffed stations.

The Coffee Hatch, London Bridge

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I curse the Coffee Hatch for making me wait for my Monday morning coffee. I was up and about early so thought I would try my chances at London Bridge’s most elusive coffee outlet. Drew at the Hatch has a reputation as one of London’s top coffee connoisseurs, but his opening hours are much less dependable. Needless to say I was excited but pessimistic about my pending visit.

The Coffee Hatch has a small window, both literally and physically from which to retrieve your coffee. Open 8-11am approximately Monday to Friday it is geared around London commuters or the occasional mad coffee lover like me.

My numerical skills came into question when I tried to ascertain the location of number 37, Bermondsey Street, surely somewhere between 45 and 30 and yet nowhere to be found. Turns out the Coffee Hatch is nothing more than an inconspicuous black door when closed, I only had the conviction to stay because I’d looked up the info and pictures online.

At 8.11 am the door slowly opened and the coffee man poked his head out. Perhaps he thought I’d just been hanging around outside for fun because he said surprised, “Oh do you want a coffee?” Umm yes, obviously, can you not see me shivering with pre-coffee desperation?!

The Hatch coffees are made on a La Marzocco machine with Square mile beans and an Anfirm grinder, though Drew sometimes uses a special guest coffee. No food is served. The coffee is carefully filtered and served to the customers specifications. Black or espresso is priced at £2 and ‘white any way’ will cost you £2.50.

I tried my usual Flat White, served short and strong. It was extra creamy with a rich roasted aroma. I can’t stand huge cups of coffee sold extra hot so this cup was ideal for me and I had slurped the final drips within a few minutes.

Hours are erratic at the Coffee Hatch but the coffee never falters. Definitely one of London’s best kept secrets.

37 Bermondsey Street
London SE1
Area: Borough

8-11 am Monday-Friday (ish)

Restaurante Egaña Oriza, Seville

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Eating in Seville is usually casual and laid back, delicious meals of charcuterie, cheese and tapas; it is rare to discover a fine dining opportunity. So I was intrigued when I heard of Oriza, a luxurious restaurant that often welcomes celebrities through its doors.

There are various dining options on offer at Oriza, a relaxed tapas bar, private conference areas and intimate dining rooms to suit every occasion. The spacious and smart main restaurant is the most attractive with light flooding in through the big window and swish white clothed tables. To accompany our fine Spanish Cava, we were treated to hot sizzling chorizo and fresh bread from the chef. A bottle of extra virgin olive oil is found on each table for dipping and drizzling.

We chose a variety of dishes from the a la carte menu, which is predominantly made up of fish options. White asparagus was unusually big and served cold, with a nice flavour but slightly odd. My truffle, mushroom and foie gras risotto was rich and delicious, an indulgent dish topped with Parmesan crisps… my only issue was the size of the portion, far far too big for me to finish.

For main course the sole was the star dish, an immaculately cooked and completely boneless fillet, served with wonderfully smooth mashed potato. The lamb was amazingly tender though needed more seasoning, served with potato and a crisp green salad. The sommelier perfectly matched my meat with a wonderful Spanish red wine, full bodied yet very easy to drink.

For dessert we tried the sorbets and the homemade almond and chocolate tart. Both were delicious, though after a large lunch the sorbet was a wiser choice. A strong shot of coffee completed this perfectly simple but stylish Spanish meal. When you feel like you need a break from tapas I’d recommend a trip to Oriza, where the food and ambience will not disappoint.

More information and book here.

www.restauranteoriza.com

La Mamounia, Marrakech

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Everyone has heard of La Mamounia, its long established reputation impresses even the most jaded of journalists.

As the other Easyjet passengers lugged their bags up to passport control we were quietly ushered into a VIP waiting lounge whilst our landing cards and passports were checked for us. Instead of fighting in line, we sat in a blissfully air conditioned room cooling down with traditional Moroccan refreshments. La Mamounia ensures their guests feel well looked after from the moment you walk off the plane… and this preferential treatment was just the beginning.

A short pleasant taxi drive later and we were entering the crumbling walls of Marrakech old town and turning into a prestigious entrance. The first thing I noticed… everything inside the Mamounia territory appears brighter and more vibrant and special… you feel like you are entering a grand museum not a hotel. Men in elegant white outfits welcomed us into a lavish reception hall inundated with staff. They watch your every step as you walk up the central staircase… I felt bad I wasn’t someone more exciting to stare at… the list of celebrities that have graced this hotel with their presence is endless.

This year La Mamounia celebrates its 90 year anniversary and with the property’s recent full renovation, there has never been a better time to visit. Redesigned by the internationally acclaimed Jacques Garcia, this new improved palace has won too many awards to count. Garcia describes it as “reminiscent of a far away time and place, La Mamounia evokes a modern day fairytale.”

After admiring the beautiful grand hall we were taken up to our room by a friendly member of staff. He smiled as we excitedly examined every detail of our spectacular room. The rooms, though similar in style and mood, have their own character… the accommodation is split into four main categories: rooms, suites, signature suites and riads. We were staying in a lovely executive suite overlooking the perfect park of La Mamounia.

Our room was rich and decadent, dressed in fabulously heavy velvety materials with cream walls and deep red furniture. The light streamed in from the large balcony and gave the room a warm glow and yet the thick walls and precious materials are ideal for cooling it in the summer months. Fresh white roses added fragrance and life to the room and an array of wonderful Moroccan pastries and champagne provided the perfect afternoon treat. Traditional craftsmanship can be seen in every detail: the intricately carved plaster, the repetitively patterned tiles and highly decorative handmade metal tables. It is disconcerting when a hotel ignores its country’s heritage, it can disorientate me and waking up in the morning I can suddenly forget I’m even away from London… La Mamounia ensure this doesn’t happen with Moroccan culture and creativity visible in every aspect of the hotel.

Our bed and bathroom were made for relaxing… the very highest quality with every special touch you could desire. Each bathroom includes a stand alone bathtub, marble surfaces, a walk in rain shower, separate toilet and two sinks. It felt like a miniature spa, especially with the custom made Mamounia toiletries.

In the daytime there is plenty to entertain you in this haven. First you must explore the well kept, lush gardens, working up an appetite for the ice-cream and macaroon parlour. For those who crave sunshine, a stint by the Mamounia pool should tan you sufficiently, order a fresh pineapple juice from one of the attentive waiters to stay hydrated in the heat. The giant spa offers every imaginable treatment in a stunning setting, and for those in need, a hairdresser is also on site. The tennis courts are lovely if you can stand the soaring temperatures and professional coaches are on hand to give lessons.

When it is time to eat there are several options to choose from: for fine traditional Moroccan cuisine you must try Le Marocain – delicious pigeon pastillas, chicken with olives, preserved lemon tagine and succulent meat grill. I can also highly recommend the celebratory 90 year anniversary Icone red wine which enhances many of the menu choices. Those guests who are tired of tagine can choose to dine at the equally distinguished L’Italien or Le Francais showcasing the best of Italian and French cooking. After dinner pop into the Winston Churchill bar (as a homage to this famous regular visitor, the room was left in its original wacky style) for a cocktail and a touch of live jazz.

During the day more casual eateries provide lighter dishes and refreshing drinks, though after the buffet breakfast bonanza you shouldn’t need much more sustenance. Everything you could ever desire for your morning meal is here. I couldn’t resist the classic croissants and orange juice, though if I’d been more adventurous I definitely would have opted for a customised homemade omelette or an extravagant pile of waffles.

Those revisiting their favourite Moroccan hotel will never have expected such a spectacular reincarnation… those arriving for the first time will fall in love with the undeniable magic of the Mamounia masterpiece.

More information and book here.

www.mamounia.com/uk

Many thanks to Visit Morocco and Travellink Morocco.

Spa and Sustenance at La Sultana, Marrakech

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La Sultana is part of the ‘Small Luxury Hotel of the World’ group and successfully offers guests authentically Moroccan five-star accommodation. This lovely property is steeped in tradition and beautifully designed. With various riads to choose from, the different rooms and suites evoke alternate characters, moods and styles, there truly is something for everyone. It is a petite hotel, intimate and cosy but it is easy to find your own space to relax. The central courtyards offer oases of serenity and peace, with trickling fountains, lush greenery and pretty pools for cooling down during the hours of sweltering heat.

With our accommodation already arranged, we sadly couldn’t test the rooms but found just enough time for a short spa treatment and evening meal. Here we found a moment of quiet despite being located in the midst of the medina.

The small scale indulgences were modest but wonderful and the attention to detail is obvious throughout the building.

The fragranced hallway leads you to the small spa which offers a large variety of specialised treatments. After changing we descended a precarious spiral staircase to a warm room for a 30 minute massage. Asked beforehand about our preferences, we were each able to customise the massage to best suit our needs. I chose to concentrate on back and legs and chose the sweet vanilla oil. Relaxed and destressed, I was almost asleep by the end.

Before supper we had a few minutes to enjoy a hot cup of herbal tea and the thermal pool, revitalising our bodies before the feast ahead. With seating around an illuminated outdoor pool and a local musician playing in the cloisters, the setting for dinner could not have been more romantic and special. Moroccan classics and contemporary dishes can be found on the menu, so for those staying at the hotel there is plenty of choice each evening. We selected a mixture of both cuisines though it was the more traditional dishes that stood out. Pigeon pastilla with rich and meaty, while the lobster ravioli was an innovative and extravagant option. My chicken tagine was tender and vibrantly flavoured with lemon, a popular recipe in Marrakech, made here to the highest standards. Following several glasses of well-matched Moroccan wine, we completed the meal with expertly poured fresh mint tea.

La Sultana is quite simply a lovely place to be, awakening every sense to the Moroccan way of life and leaving you with a lasting memory of this miraculous city.

More information on La Sultana here.

www.lasultanahotels.com

Many thanks to Visit Morocco and Travellink Morocco.

The Dorchester, Afternoon Tea

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Dining at the Dorchester has always been a distant dream for me, it’s regal reputation is worldwide and it grows in stature year after year. It serves perhaps the most prestigious afternoon tea in London and I had high expectations for our visit counting down the days for weeks before. It did not disappoint.

Stepping inside from the street, you are instantly transported to a bygone era of classic manners and lavish decor. The velvet is the softest, the silk the very finest, and the flowers the biggest in bloom. We were escorted to a quiet corner table, perfect for a voyeur like me. Out waiter’s infectious enthusiasm is memorable even now, he ensured every part of our tea was perfect.

There are several varieties of afternoon tea to choose from at the Dorchester, and their specially designed Chelsea Flower Show themed tea always receives critical acclaim. We tried the classic champagne Dorchester tea, served all year round with a delightful selection of sandwiches, scones and Parisian patisseries.

After a glass of Laurent Perrier Rose Champagne, we were offered a plate of immaculate sandwiches, each with a different filling, freshly-made, the bread in exact crustless rectangles. The flavours are far superior to any I’ve tasted before: seafood, roast chicken and tarragon, egg mayonnaise, cucumber and cream cheese and smoked salmon. On hearing I was a non-fish eater our waiter zoomed away, returning immediately with a selection of substitutions. These were more than adequate, especially the Italian mozzarella and tomato option.

Along with the delicate brew of Dorchester blend tea, came warm scones straight out of the oven, homemade jams and Cornish clotted cream. And then the pieces de resistance, the crown jewels… the cakes. I appreciated the modest servings which allow you to taste without overeating. Even the simplest patisseries were utterly divine, carefully constructed and expertly assembled. The best cake would have to be the chocolate coffee cup, though the strawberry and white chocolate layered torte was exquisite and the pistachio pastry was unique and delicious. The scones were perhaps my favourite though, buttery and crumbly (both plain and fruit), seriously extravagant loaded with thick cream and jam.

Unable to let us leave empty handed, our waiter presented us with a takeaway handbag of edible goodies.

Guests at the Dorchester expect the very best – the afternoon tea certainly delivers.

More information and book here.

An Edinburgh Itinerary

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The best thing about my brother’s Edinburgh University education is the excuse it gives me for four years of visiting rights to Scotland’s picturesque capital city. Rivalling London with its impressive selection of fine dining, cool bars and attractive historical sights, it is the ideal place for a weekend break in Britain.

9 am: after a heavenly buffet breakfast at the Caledonian Hotel pack your map and umbrella and set out for Princes Street, Edinburgh’s busiest shopping road.

10 am: Wander through the boutiques until you reach Artisan Roast for the perfect cup of coffee. But a note to Potter geeks; the cafe keenly states that ‘JK Rowling did not write here!’

10.30 am: If you dare, the dungeons are worth a visit. Catch one of the live shows for spooky stories and amusing anecdotes about Scotland’s murky past.

12.30 pm: Head to the Leith area for lunch by the waterside. Edinburgh boasts five Michelin starred eateries, The Kitchin is perhaps the healthiest, offering beautifully presented, seasonally inspired recipes. The lunch menu is very reasonable with three courses priced at £26 per person.

2 pm: Jump on the 22 bus back into town for an afternoon of sightseeing. The National Museum of Scotland is currently displaying an awesome Viking exhibition, but their permanent collection is enough to lure you in all year round.

3 pm: Potter around Grassmarket and exchange a tea and cake break with a trip to Oink! the thrifty but thoroughly Scottish snack of hog roast and haggis. Pop into the most popular vintage shop, Armstrong’s for a look through their racks of hand-me-downs.

4 pm: Trek up through the Royal Mile, past the bagpipers, to the renowned Edinburgh Castle… step back in time in this amazing medieval building which overlooks the entire city. Students avoid the place at all costs, adhering to the superstitious rumour that they will fail their finals if they step over the Castle threshold. Then just moments away is the Camera Obscura and World of Illusions, a mesmerising interactive exhibition; we especially loved the dizzying vortex tunnel.

7 pm: For cocktails the Last Word Saloon is the only place to go. Choose the deliciously well balanced John Candy concoction or pick their masterful rendition of the famous gin drink the bar is named after.

8.30 pm: There is no need to look further than the Caledonian Hotel for supper. With the talented Galvin brothers at the helm, you have the choice to dine at the smart Pompadour Restaurant or the more casual Brasserie de Luxe. We couldn’t fault the Parisian style dishes and the immaculate service. When tiredness sets in drift upstairs to bed.

For massive savings and minimal stress buy the Edinburgh Pass… undoubtedly the most efficient way to see all the city’s delights!

For more information see the Edinburgh tourist board website here.

Thoroughly Modern Milly travelled with East Coast Trains. East Coast operates regular services each weekday between London King’s Cross and Edinburgh. Customers travelling First Class can enjoy East Coast’s complimentary food and drinks offer plus unlimited Wi-Fi. Book advanced return fares online at www.eastcoast.co.uk. Times and fares can also be found via 08457 225225 or from any staffed stations.

Four Seasons Hotel Canary Wharf

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At the weekends, Canary Wharf is a very different place. Gone are the bankers and their briefcases, instead a strange ghostly silence falls over this financial district. One place, however, is still very much alive and ready to give you an unforgettable weekend.

It was pouring with rain when we approached the grand Four Seasons Hotel. All I wanted was a warm place to relax and a glass of fizz in my hand. Thankfully this hotel provided both within moments of stepping inside.

A speedy check-in meant we were inside our executive suite without delay, admiring London’s overcast but enchanting skyline and enjoying the comforts of our Four Seasons bedroom.

Luxury is evident in every detail. Executive category rooms are spacious corner suites with striking riverfront views of the Thames. At 56 square metres, they offer the privacy of a separate living room for entertaining or meetings, with plenty of space for relaxing too. Our bedroom was particularly impressive, an inviting king size bed, numerous plush pillows and an epic flatscreen TV. An adjoining full limestone bathroom featured a big bath, separate power shower and (L’Occitane) toiletries. As a taster before our Italian cooking class, Head Chef (Moreno) had left Mediterranean tasters and gifts in our living room. The bruschetta and breadsticks wrapped in Italian ham were particularly appetising, a hint of what was to come with our pasta cooking course and our delicious meal at the hotel’s Quadrato Restaurant.

Guests of Four Seasons Canary Wharf can enjoy a variety of top-notch extracurricular activities including free access to the high tech Virgin Active gym (complete with impressive indoor infinity pool leading out to the Thames), a lovely piano lounge with live sport for the men and cocktail lists for the girls, not to mention a calming, petite spa for the ultimate relaxation. We were lucky enough to experience a couple’s massage – a pleasant start to our Sunday morning. With the sun rising over London, the views from here were even better. Using aromatic essential oils, two therapists gently and effectively kneaded away all tension in our backs. The treatments here are revitalising and stress relieving – ideal as an energising wake up in the morning, or to help you wind down after a busy day.

Breakfast is an array of foodie delights, continental or full English, whatever you feel like. I particularly enjoyed the do-it-yourself juicer which enables you to create your very own exotic drink. I can also highly recommend the delicious french toast and pancakes from the a la carte menu.

We were sad to wave goodbye to Canary Wharf, jumping on the conveniently located, charming clipper boat back to central London. I’ve always thought of this area of London as a suits only professional playground, but the Four Seasons Canary Wharf proves itself a luxury hotel for both business and pleasure.

More information and book here: www.fourseasons.com/canarywharf

Bounce, Chancery Lane

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Ping Pong is no longer just a game for bored students. London’s bar scene seems infected with this fun sport, and there are now venues all over the city offering tables for guests to use whilst catching up and enjoying a drink.

At the forefront of the trend, Bounce is the latest venture from the founders of All Star Lanes. It declares itself as ‘the home of Ping Pong’ and apparently the first ball was created here in 1901! With memorabilia crowding the entrance, it is an interesting education into the history of the game. The underground bar doesn’t look very exciting from street level, but take a peer inside and you’ll see half of London’s lawyers letting their hair down for a pint and a ping.

We played on the azure blue 2012 Olympic table, though our skills were embarrassingly poor in comparison to the masters. An hour is plenty to flex your muscles (you will use more energy than you would imagine!). A funky playlist sets the tone, and I couldn’t resist dancing along to the Beach Boys whilst batting the balls all over the place! Luckily girls are multitasking experts, my Ping Pong partner wasn’t as impressive.

For a break in between rounds the fruity cocktails will refresh you and the Mediterranean sharing boards are great if you are feeling peckish – the pizzas smelt delicious too.

Bounce is the perfect venue for a number of occasions: an innovative date, getting together with a team of mates or even to rent out for a special party.

More information here: www.bouncepingpong.com

Indian Essence, Pett’s Wood

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Atul Kochhar’s Indian Essence advertises itself as your favourite local Indian… but what it offers is much, much more than this. In the heart of Petts Wood, the restaurant showcases traditional Indian Cuisine with a creative menu that is sure to excite a discerning clientele as well as satisfying traditional palates.

“Atul Kochhar’s unique talent as a twice Michelin starred chef has changed the way people perceive and experience Indian cuisine. Taking inspiration from his native India while continuously researching regional dishes, Atul has managed to combine his heritage with his love of British cuisine and created a unique and innovative modern Indian cuisine. As the very first Indian chef to receive a Michelin star, accomplished during his time as Head Chef at Tamarind in 2001, he then went on to open the highly acclaimed Benares Restaurant and Bar for which he was awarded his second Michelin star in 2007.” I experienced his exquisite delicate Indian food at Benares a few months ago so was eagerly anticipating my meal at his new, more casual eatery, Indian Essence.

After a lengthy journey from West London, we were relieved to arrive at the restaurant, which is thankfully close to Petts Wood train station. The meal began with miniature poppadums and three homemade fruit chutneys to whet the appetite and introduce a few Indian flavours. We chose several cocktails from the select list: Rose and Lychee Martini was girly and sweet and the Pineapple and Ginger Mojito was refreshing and exotic.

It was a challenge to pick from the menu of tempting dishes… Atul has combined favourite ingredients with typical Indian flavours and methods of cooking to present appetising recipes. It was a meat heavy first course: Lamb chops marinated in fennel, pepper and cream were supremely tasty, falling-off-the-bone soft lamb with an aromatic crumbly marinade. so good I felt the need to gnaw at the bone to obtain any last morsels of meat. Basil infused chicken tikka fillets was presented three ways, each with a different spicy coating, but all equally delicious. Crispy fried squid, was made with a light batter and sweet sticky sauce, not too chewy but with a good bite… we weren’t quite sure how they fitted in with the Indian cuisine but they tasted too good to dwell for long on their authenticity.

For main course we chose a mix of traditional Indian dishes and Indian influenced British classics. Slow cooked Lamb neck curry was the special of the day and also a favourite in the restaurant, recommended enthusiastically by our waiter we had high expectations. The meat was again amazingly tender, softened perhaps by the vibrant spices and herbs. The sauce was light and fragrant, and surprisingly not too rich. Tandoori chicken tikka in creamy tomato and fenugreek sauce was my favourite. Even the accompaniments were divine, the pilau rice and garlic naan were without doubt the best I’ve ever tried. The more familiar steak choice was the only disappointment of the day, a Goa style sirloin cut with pepper coconut sauce and coriander chips. Though the flavourings were intriguing, we found the steak too chewy and the chips too heavy.

Kulfi is a popular Indian frozen dessert made with semi-condensed milk. My brother particular enjoyed the pistachio and mango varieties on offer at Indian Essence, a light and refreshing ice-cream that cleanses the palate after spicy savoury courses. I opted for the interesting sounding Chocolate and peanut butter parfait with sugarcane ice-cream, a wonderful combination of flavours.

On the tedious journey to Pett’s Wood, I declared I’d never visit this faraway area again, my return trip was spent searching for a slot in my diary to return. Indian Essence offers exceptional Indian food that will appeal to everyone, I was impressed with every detail of Atul’s inventive menu and culinary execution.

More information here: www.indianessence.co.uk