Tag Archives: fine dining

Chez Bruno, Lorgues

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There are some restaurants who fluke a Michelin star, but last week I visited a kitchen which strives for excellence every day and truly deserves this prestigious accolade. Visiting Chez Bruno, hidden away in the Provencal countryside, was a unique culinary experience and for me, it provided an education about the world of truffles.

Chez Bruno was opened in 1983 by Clément Bruno, a talented chef and world connoisseur of truffles. In 1999 the restaurant received its Michelin star which it has retained ever since.Chez Bruno has always been a family focussed business and three years ago Clément’s ambitious son, Benjamin took over the renowned kitchen. He continues the much-loved traditions of his father whilst creatively renewing recipes to showcase the truffle.

In summer the outdoor setting is dazzling, a beautiful haven surrounded by idyllic gardens; in winter the cosy sumptuous indoor dining room is warmed by a roaring fire and has a magical feel. We were lucky enough to be amidst the action in the kitchen at the chef’s table. We sat quietly observing as a whirlwind of chopping, cooking, cutting happened around us.

Champagne was swiftly delivered, and I relished the opportunity to chat to Benjamin about truffles and Provencal food. He emphasised that he likes to keep his recipes simple to let the fresh Provencal ingredients, and local truffles “speak for themselves”. Although he uses both local and imported truffles, and varieties of black and white, most of the produce is found within two hours of the restaurant, ensuring exceptional quality and fresh flavour. He also mentioned that only truffles found in France, Italy and Australia are really worth bothering with. The truffle season always sees a flurry of fine restaurants offering up dedicated menus, so I’ve tasted my fair share recently, but at Chez Bruno the truffles look more elegant, taste more refined, and the aroma is even more alluring.

With the just-baked rolls out the oven and the plates prepped, it was soon time for dinner service, and our eight course bespoke meal commenced. Benjamin insisted on offering us all the speciality dishes as well as a host of other sensational treats. Scrambled egg with truffle was a comforting bowl of fragranced eggy delight with cracked black pepper on top, particularly delicious when loaded onto a piece of the crusty bread. I imagine this is what royalty eat for breakfast along with the divine truffle on buttered toast which was served next.

After watching the dedicated chefs plating up the artistic Foie gras with beetroot, lentils and truffle, we tasted this colourful dish which Benjamin said he had introduced to the menu very recently. It was a more summery combination with vinegary dressed lentils, slivers of different beetroots, chives, crumbled black truffles and an immaculate slice of foie gras – the flavours and textures worked wonderfully together. Chez Bruno is best known for its secret potato and truffle dish, which visitors return for regularly. Sensationally simple, this dish only uses half a baked potato, a rich cream and truffle sauce, slices of white or black truffle, and a little seasoning. It was my favourite dish, especially with the exotic white truffles, which are the more expensive and have a more intense taste. The potato was fluffy and soft, coated in the most irresistible cream infused with truffle flavour.

A mouthful of palate-cleansing champagne and truffle granita was presented before the meat course. By this point I was too full to eat as much as I would have liked, and felt momentarily jealous of those with a larger appetite. Benjamin personally made us magical pastry parcels filled with pork and foie gras with a jus and topped with slices of black truffle. This is the kind of dish you want to come home to after a really long day at work, hearty and luxurious.

For dessert we had refreshing Italian truffle gelato, and tasted an orange and chocolate dessert, which seemed very out of place without any truffle!

When we left, the kitchen was still a hive of activity, as the enthusiastic chefs continued to grate, shave, crumble and sprinkle the wondrous black ingredient. The truffle is a delicacy that has become too common in restaurants, especially as they are often using inferior produce. Visiting Chez Bruno was an eye-opening and immersive experience, I know now that I will never think of this extravagant, distinctive little ingredient in the same way again, and urge you to visit the Truffle King if you ever find yourself in this part of the world.

More information and book a table at Chez Bruno here: www.restaurantbruno.com

Hélène Darroze at The Connaught, Mayfair

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Most hotel restaurants blend into their hospitable surroundings but at The Connaught everything evokes the style, life and character of the restaurant’s leading lady, Hélène Darroze. Proud and passionate about her roots in south west France, her cooking shows a clear influence of this area’s produce and culinary traditions.

Darroze was born into the industry, her family owned a renowned restaurant in the Landes region just north of the Pyrenees, to which she made a vital contribution. A disciple of the great Alain Ducasse, she learnt her craft while cooking as a crucial member of his team at prestigious restaurant Louis XV in Monaco. Darroze now runs two restaurants, both named after her, one in Paris and the other, conveniently close to where I work, in London.

My first understanding of her restaurant at the iconic Connaught Hotel was from my grandparents. They are the best food critics I know, and I trust their opinion on food above all else. It helps too that my grandmother is French and a superb cook herself, so she knows what to look out for. They often refer to Hélène’s cooking as the best in London, so I was extremely excited to be trying it at last.

Through the beautifully British lobby, we were led to the quietly sophisticated dining room and seated at a lovely window table with maximum natural light. The lunch began with a whimsical board game that challenged us to think about what ingredients we prioritise, and brought a sense of fun to the civilised restaurant. Extravagant items such as lobster, black truffle, foie gras and venison suggest that the meal ahead will be rich and heavy, but the culinary journey that followed was quite the opposite, light and magical.

Every meal at this restaurant begins with light focaccia with confit tomatoes and thin ruffles of noir de Bigorre ham from south west France which is carved authentically at the table. Immediately we were transported to France with its fresh and vibrant flavours simply presented before us. Next freshly baked artisan bread and espelette butter arrived, smelling as irresistible as it tasted… once again my resolution to resist bread was broken.

My three dishes were a vision of elegant indulgence and subtle, artistic precision. For once I was satisfied that I had chosen well, though observing other plates as they passed, I think I would have been delighted with any menu choice. Black truffle with onion, barley, and lardo di Colonnata is a delicate arrangement of floating ravioli triangles with black truffle, sprigs of lively greenery and translucent cylindrical onion pieces. Each element had its purpose; for texture, to add moisture or colour, and put together it was divine, both visually and to taste. I later discovered it is a new dish on the menu, and I think perhaps my favourite of the day. Those who enjoy fish should opt for the scallop with radish and shiso, it was an immaculately constructed work of art.

For main course the Pigeon with foie gras, spelt, dried fruits, peppermint, and “Sultan” consommé is a striking option. It tasted Moroccan inspired with dried fruit and peppermint but with a hint of French with the rich foie gras and delicious consommé. The meat was cooked to perfection and seasoned carefully. I had a slight twinge of food envy after trying the Venison with celeriac, pear, stilton and Mexican molle. The velvety intense flavours of the luxurious cut of meat and creamy blue cheese were combined in a wonderfully balanced dish – next time I’ll be ordering a plate for myself. For a little extra indulgence try the Lobster with calamari, clams, chorizo and “black rice”, a speciality of Hélène’s and a dish that was enthusiastically consumed by my colleague (you may have noticed this dish recently on Masterchef, The Professionals).

Pineapple with black pepper, coconut and lemongrass was a substantial but airy dessert, and an ideal palate cleanser to conclude a feast. Concealed beneath the soft light cream was a layer of crunchiness and humble chunks of sunshine yellow pineapple. It conjured up memories of Thailand for me, the combination of exotic, punchy flavours reminding me of the vast beaches and fresh fruit readily on offer. The pinch of pepper adds a kick of spice, a clever contrasting component with the other sweet and citrusy tastes. For chocolate addicts the sculpturally impressive chocolate sweet with glowing ruby grapefruit is a must.

Decorative Hermès porcelain cups and saucers arrived filled with dark, rich espressos, accompanied by dazzling glittery dark chocolate truffles, rich red macarons, and cream filled choux mouthfuls, a starring moment for the Connaught’s talented pastry chef. I savoured every mouthful and anticipating my cold walk home allowed myself one more of the devilishly good truffles.

More information and book a table at the restaurant here.

Salto Restaurant, Warsaw

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Before heading to Warsaw I contacted the man in charge of Poland’s only Michelin star kitchen, Modest Amaro… although his restaurant was shut he highly recommended Salto Restaurant. This relatively new eatery is housed in the luxurious Hotel Rialto (elegant art deco accommodation in the city centre) though operates very much as its own entity.

Salto is the creative venture of Argentinian-born Martin Gimenez Castro, winner of Poland’s 2013 ‘Top Chef’ competition. Passionate and innovative, Martin has carefully designed every aspect of the venue, including the beautiful unique plates and bowls in which his food is served. The food is intricate but employs bold flavour combinations and unusual cooking techniques. It is like nothing else I tried in Poland, the recipes are braver and tastes more powerful.

Salto features frequent reminders of Martin’s background and heritage, with South American flavours, an abundance of fish and seafood as well as famous Argentine beef. I peeked in the small kitchen where Martin and his petite team conjure up endless immaculate plates of food. Out in the full restaurant, guests seemed to be audibly enjoying their food, discussing the successful dishes amongst themselves.

We had our fingers crossed for steak, and four courses in, an impressive cut of Argentinian beef tenderloin was placed in front of each of us, perfuming the air around us. Alongside the steak came white truffle sauce, pak choi and baked Jerusalem artichokes. It was wonderful, a triumph of indulgent ingredients and fine silky meat.

Salto is known also for its remarkable wine list. The eager staff chose wine expertly to complement each course, producing one rare vintage after another. Particularly memorable was the 2004 Cavas de Weinert from Mendoza which married well with the steak.

A colourful and light dessert arrived to mark the end of the meal. An artistic arrangement of chocolate and beetroot components. It was my favourite flavour pairing of the night and I embraced the final plate of creativity gratefully.

Poland’s food scene is flourishing, and Martin Gimenez Castro is one of the most talented chefs leading the revolution. A meal at Salto is a must for any foodie visiting Warsaw.

More information and book here: www.saltorestauracja.pl