As the other Easyjet passengers lugged their bags up to passport control we were quietly ushered into a VIP waiting lounge whilst our landing cards and passports were checked for us. Instead of fighting in line, we sat in a blissfully air conditioned room cooling down with traditional Moroccan refreshments. La Mamounia ensures their guests feel well looked after from the moment you walk off the plane… and this preferential treatment was just the beginning.
This year La Mamounia celebrates its 90 year anniversary and with the property’s recent full renovation, there has never been a better time to visit. Redesigned by the internationally acclaimed Jacques Garcia, this new improved palace has won too many awards to count. Garcia describes it as “reminiscent of a far away time and place, La Mamounia evokes a modern day fairytale.”
After admiring the beautiful grand hall we were taken up to our room by a friendly member of staff. He smiled as we excitedly examined every detail of our spectacular room. The rooms, though similar in style and mood, have their own character… the accommodation is split into four main categories: rooms, suites, signature suites and riads. We were staying in a lovely executive suite overlooking the perfect park of La Mamounia.
Our room was rich and decadent, dressed in fabulously heavy velvety materials with cream walls and deep red furniture. The light streamed in from the large balcony and gave the room a warm glow and yet the thick walls and precious materials are ideal for cooling it in the summer months. Fresh white roses added fragrance and life to the room and an array of wonderful Moroccan pastries and champagne provided the perfect afternoon treat. Traditional craftsmanship can be seen in every detail: the intricately carved plaster, the repetitively patterned tiles and highly decorative handmade metal tables. It is disconcerting when a hotel ignores its country’s heritage, it can disorientate me and waking up in the morning I can suddenly forget I’m even away from London… La Mamounia ensure this doesn’t happen with Moroccan culture and creativity visible in every aspect of the hotel.
Our bed and bathroom were made for relaxing… the very highest quality with every special touch you could desire. Each bathroom includes a stand alone bathtub, marble surfaces, a walk in rain shower, separate toilet and two sinks. It felt like a miniature spa, especially with the custom made Mamounia toiletries.
In the daytime there is plenty to entertain you in this haven. First you must explore the well kept, lush gardens, working up an appetite for the ice-cream and macaroon parlour. For those who crave sunshine, a stint by the Mamounia pool should tan you sufficiently, order a fresh pineapple juice from one of the attentive waiters to stay hydrated in the heat. The giant spa offers every imaginable treatment in a stunning setting, and for those in need, a hairdresser is also on site. The tennis courts are lovely if you can stand the soaring temperatures and professional coaches are on hand to give lessons.
When it is time to eat there are several options to choose from: for fine traditional Moroccan cuisine you must try Le Marocain – delicious pigeon pastillas, chicken with olives, preserved lemon tagine and succulent meat grill. I can also highly recommend the celebratory 90 year anniversary Icone red wine which enhances many of the menu choices. Those guests who are tired of tagine can choose to dine at the equally distinguished L’Italien or Le Francais showcasing the best of Italian and French cooking. After dinner pop into the Winston Churchill bar (as a homage to this famous regular visitor, the room was left in its original wacky style) for a cocktail and a touch of live jazz.
During the day more casual eateries provide lighter dishes and refreshing drinks, though after the buffet breakfast bonanza you shouldn’t need much more sustenance. Everything you could ever desire for your morning meal is here. I couldn’t resist the classic croissants and orange juice, though if I’d been more adventurous I definitely would have opted for a customised homemade omelette or an extravagant pile of waffles.
Those revisiting their favourite Moroccan hotel will never have expected such a spectacular reincarnation… those arriving for the first time will fall in love with the undeniable magic of the Mamounia masterpiece.
More information and book here.
Many thanks to Visit Morocco and Travellink Morocco.
Drakes, Ripley
Drakes is in Ripley near Woking, but please don’t let the location put you off… I would travel to and from Woking every day for food this good. The cuisine is amongst the best I’ve ever experienced and the restaurant is utterly charming.
On a Saturday lunchtime there were numerous menu options available, the set and tasting menus are named flavour discoveries and explore seasonal produce.
Steve Drake is an energetic enthusiast in the kitchen, keen to create food which is both healthy and innovative. When we visited, his latest toy was a clay oven used to immaculately cook the cauliflower in one of our courses.
The a la carte menu looked exemplary but I was pleased to find a special flavour journey had already been decided for us… this way I could skip the agonising choosing process and try a larger selection of small dishes, rather than the standard three courses. I would definitely recommend ordering this way, it is a more exciting and refreshing way of sampling what’s on offer. Drakes believe this way of eating offers: intrigue, adventure, flavour, simplicity and discovery.
Our Flavour Journey
Snacks
Quail, Rhubarb Gel, Foie Gras, Compressed Lettuce
Scallop, Clay Baked Cauliflower, Raisin Puree, Curry Oil
Monkfish, Pumpkin Yolk, Crisp Mussels, Alexanders
Slow Cooked Mutton Shoulder, Heirloom Carrots, Tarragon Oil
Parsnip Ice Cream, Blackberries, Sorrel Ice
Pear cooked in ‘Beurre Noisette’ Goat’s Milk, Hibiscus, Crystalised Vodka
Chocolate Breakfast
So as you can see there is far too much too talk about in this review… instead I will pay attention to the most vivid memories that remain with me a week after dining at Drakes. The ‘Snacks’ they refer to so bashfully in the menu were exquisite, and all in miniature: pork fritters with cider vinegar jam, quinoa crackers with dandelion puree, duck’s heart with chicken broth and red pepper brioche balls. It was a borrower’s meal in itself, fun and full of flavour.
My fish was kindly substituted with vegetarian ingredients, the staff delicately enquire at the start of the meal if any guests have specific dietary requirements. Of the itemised courses the quail, monkfish and pear really stood out for me.
The quail is cooked to perfection with a subtle caramelly sauce. It is elegantly presented with small slices of creamy foie gras and wonderful compressed lettuce. The monkfish is a dish of surprises, a beautiful piece of fish with a pumpkin sauce pretending to be a yolk (the encased pumpkin bubble is heated to 50 degrees so that only the middle melts). The sugary buttery pear is to die for, a typically French idea juxtaposed with peculiarly refreshing goat’s milk ice cream and shockingly fabulous tiny crystallised vodka pieces. The only course I was less wild about was the mutton which in comparison to the rest was a little bland.
The wine journey paralleling the food was a real highlight of the meal for us. Eight highly original and exciting choices were delivered just before each plate of food. The sommelier was not only precise and professional but showed huge, genuine enthusiasm and passion for wine. His approach was humorous throughout proffering anecdotes and stories about each bottle. His expert knowledge was obvious when he spoke of discovering unknown wines such as the South Australian First Drop ‘The Mother of all Harvests’ and Austria’s exquisite Weinland ‘Theodora’. For the first time ever I understood the wine while appreciating it. Drakes has a truly special sommelier who I’m sure would bring wonderfully unexpected wines to accompany any meal.
I truly am in awe of the Drakes team for creating such a spectacular restaurant and a miraculous, magical menu. I think the photos prove my point.
More information here.
Fine Dining in St. Lucia
photos from our cooking class and meal with Orlando
There are numerous dining options in St. Lucia. Many of the best chefs mix traditional Caribbean flavours and produce with other cuisines and techniques to create innovative and exciting fine dining.
Orlando’s: One evening at C’est La Vie we had a special guest. Orlando (or Share the Love Chef as he calls himself) gave us an enthusiastic cooking demonstration and a dinner that was truly delicious and very memorable. Born in England, Orlando moved to St. Lucia thirteen years ago and has since been promoting Caribbean cuisine and the vibrant flavours so readily available in this climate. His first solo restaurant has just opened in Souffriere, St. Lucia and promises to be magnificent. http://www.sharethelovechef.com/bio.html
The Cliff at Cap Maison: Cap Maison is placed on the edge of a cliff as the name makes clear. After a very informative wine tasting, we were treated to an exceptional meal at the restaurant. In my opinion, the food here is Michelin-star standard, I couldn’t fault the Sweet Pea with White Truffle Risotto or the Braised Kobe Short Rib. http://capmaison.com/
East Winds: A more rustic but equally exciting place to eat… East Winds is a unique all-inclusive boutique resort with a generous patch of beach and lovely facilities. At lunchtime the hotel restaurant offers a great buffet where we tried Caribbean classics like beef roti, fish stew and fresh salads. I’d also recommend the tropical Pina Colada. http://www.eastwinds.com/home.php
A few other fine restaurants I heard complimented during our stay in St. Lucia are the following: Hotel Chocolat, The Edge, Ladera and Jade Mountain.
Many thanks to Premier Concierge for advice and arrangements.