Tag Archives: fine dining

The Wright restaurant, Guggenheim, New York

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Whether you are interested in art or not, a trip to the magnificent Guggenheim is a must when staying in New York. When I first visited the Big Apple I was in awe of this epic building, and so I couldn’t wait to return.

This time around I was lucky enough to discover the super stylish Wright restaurant at the Guggenheim. Serving up delicious food and sensational cocktails in a suitably artistic setting, it is the ideal place to dine pre or post exhibition viewing!

After a leisurely walk around Central Park in the sunshine, we collapsed into our seats at the Wright, nodding profusely when asked if we’d like a cocktail or not.

The food here is contemporary and confident, with an emphasis on fine ingredients and attractive presentation. With the chattering creatives surrounding us, we soon relaxed and felt completely at ease among all the ladies who lunch. I loved the atmosphere and could have spent the whole afternoon over our yummy lunch. Vibrant clementine orange martini glasses arrived, much to our delight, and we sipped on the cooling concoctions, the Wright (grey goose orange vodka, sweet vermouth, orange juice, Campari, club soda and orange twist) for me and the Park (Tanqueray Gin, Grand Marnier, Apricot Brandy, Orange Juice and Grenadine) for my chum. They looked almost identical mixed expertly to create smooth and flavoursome drinks.

The menu is clear and simple with bold flavours and high quality ingredients. My friend seemed absolutely delighted with her Sashimi Tuna, Avocado, Shishito Peppers and Wasabi Aioli, claiming it to be the best Sashimi she has ever tasted. The plate looked fresh and exciting, a careful selection of complementing colours and textures. I tried the Eggplant, Red Pepper and Goat Cheese Terrine dressed with Parsley and Balsamic. It was not what I was expecting, a slim and soft vegetarian terrine is a strange notion but miraculously it worked (once I’d accepted the idea) and the flavour and seasoning were well judged.

Feeling brave, we opted for two of the heavier main courses: Pappardelle Bolognese with Ricotta Mousse and Braised Short Rib with Spaetzle, Citrus Carrot Puree; both classic dishes but creatively reworked and adapted. The portions are generous and surprisingly filling (I was very disappointed when I couldn’t finish my bowl of pasta). The Bolognese sauce was rich and meaty and worked well with the thick pasta, although I found the ricotta mousse a little tart and would have preferred just grated parmesan on top. The braised beef was masterfully moulded into a cube structure and carefully placed with decoratively arranged accompaniments. It was wonderfully tender and aromatic but incredibly rich and probably too much for one person.

After lunch we were kindly escorted into the Picasso ‘Black and White’ exhibition for a look round the monochrome masterpieces, a sublime afternoon viewing after a heavenly lunch.

More information here: http://www.thewrightrestaurant.com/home/default.asp

The Square Cookbook: Savoury, by Phil Howard

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The Square is one of the most special restaurants I have had the privilege of visiting. The food is exquisitely executed and beautifully presented and the restaurant is a light and lovely place to dine. Phil Howard founded this renowned establishment in 1991 and it continues to thrill regular and first-time customers. After 21 years of culinary brilliance and critical success, no-one can dispute that this is an eatery worthy of its two star accolade. With the publication of his first book The Square, Phil Howard continues to inspire, now you can have a go at recreating his masterpieces in your own home.

The a la carte menu is full of seasonal British ingredients, and it is a real treat selecting from such an extensive selection. I chose the intriguing sounding Hand Rolled Macaroni with Sticky Chicken Wings, new season’s Mousserons, Cauliflower and Vacherin. My friend ordered the Saute of Scottish Langoustine Tails with Parmesan Gnocchi and an Emulsion of Potato and Truffle, this is the dish Phil told me was his current favourite, so I was delighted to try it. It was as exceptional as expected, subtle and delicious with the freshest plump langoustine. Our food was enhanced by perfectly matched wine.

Our main courses were so spectacular they provoked quite a reaction from the neighbouring table, an enthusiastic couple who desperately enquired about which dishes we had chosen; tourists in London I asked them how they had discovered the Square – apparently the concierge at their hotel had recommended it as a London foodie must. I couldn’t resist trying the Breast of Grouse with Turnip and Celery, Pearl Barley, Pancetta and Blackberries: a gamey delicacy only found on menus for a very short period each year. My guest chose Roast Loin of Pata Negra Pork with Baked Quince, Lardo Wrapped Prunes, Croquettes and Sherry. I was surprised by the unusually large portions, perhaps because I usually opt for the lighter lunch menu. Both dishes were prepared immaculately with genius flavour pairings and careful consideration of the meat’s qualities.

We didn’t rush our meal, I wanted to savour every moment… our cheese and dessert courses were spent alone in the restaurant as the final guests meandered merrily out. The puddings at The Square are blissfully simple but effective… Plum Souffle with Almond Ice-cream and the famous Chocolate Bar, both indulgent and very tasty which is all I desire from a dessert.

The cookbook is a magnificent bible from a master of flavour and simplicity. It proves that Michelin star cooking is achievable at home. This is the first book of two, the Savoury edition before the Sweet. It is clear that Phil has poured his passion and expertise into every page of this epic publication with detailed analysis of the recipes, useful tips and stunning photographs. This glorious book is a classic and deserves a place on every kitchen shelf.

Speaking to Phil about his journey with The Square restaurant, it was immediately very clear to me why this restaurant has enjoyed continuous success in a city which has changed its culinary taste so dramatically over the last 20 years. Phil admitted it is sometimes scary to stand still while everyone around you is moving on with such speed. But if anything, this book cements the belief that the best British food doesn’t have to involve scientific experiments and molecular concepts to excite – the best food is still, and will always be created from a love of good ingredients, inventive combinations and an ambition to create food that tastes sublime.

To complement the new book Phil stars in a newly launched, specially commissioned six part digital mini series and podcast. Entitled “Kitchen Foundation”, the films feature Phil demonstrating how to establish the foundations of a successful kitchen. Phil’s cookbook represents the culmination of more than twenty years spent at the helm of one of the UK’s finest 2 Michelin Star restaurants.

See all the films here: http://www.squarerestaurant.com/Cookbook/Videos.aspx

http://www.squarerestaurant.com/

LUX STOCKHOLM, Stockholm

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LUX Stockholm is located in Lilla Essingen, a short taxi ride from the hubbub of the city centre. A former Electrolux canteen, it is an unusually cool setting for a Michelin starred eatery and yet seems to suit Lux’s quirky style and adventurous take on food.

On entering we noticed a lack of young diners in the restaurant, odd perhaps considering the inventive, contemporary cooking; however when you remember the location and hefty prices it makes more sense. All food and eating out in Stockholm is expensive so you can imagine, fine dining is extortionate.

The tasting menus are recommended and are available in a 6 or 9 course option. You do get your money’s worth as Lux are very keen on amuse-bouches and we were treated to numerous tasters from the chef before the actual meal commenced. Tiny savoury profiteroles, micro salads, miniature mouthfuls of soup all arrived, immaculately presented and uniquely arranged. I was impressed with the clever design and polite tidiness of the food, but although the plates always looked beautiful the food on them didn’t always look appetising.

Chef Henrik Norstrom is not afraid to be bold and brave in the kitchen, defying convention to create technically sophisticated food with lots of flair. He uses almost exclusively organic, unusual and locally produced ingredients. Without a menu I would not have been able to guess some of the fascinating dishes placed in front of me. Between us we tried almost everything from the tasting menus:

– Dill flavoured herring from Gothenburg with cockles from Grebbestad, pickled gherkin, garden sorrel and sour cream

– Parsley simmered langoustine from Fjallbacka with Ivergard’s parsley suede, parsley cream and steamed crayfish parcel

– Lightly smoked and blackened reindeer from Overtornea with Ivergard’s broad beans, fried chanterelles, cress cream and pickled green cabbage

– Tomatoes from Hornudden’s garden

– Fir tree smoked mallard from Vastmanland, Ivergard’s fennel, pickled currents, black pudding biscuits and ginger

– Juniper berry fried roe deer buck from Sodermanland with cep, salt pork, parsley suede and chicken crisp

– Cream ice cream made of autumn raspberries from Stenhuse farm with hazelnut cream, almond milk and frozen coffee mousse

– Garden chocolates and marmalade

The fish courses were the most radical: some raw, others cooked lightly and served with eccentric choices of vegetables and pickles. Intriguing for the palate but not necessarily comforting. The meat was more hearty, we particularly enjoyed the deer, a lovely flavoursome cut of meat cooked to perfection with a salty rich and delicious sauce and served on a bed of soft sweet vegetables. Dessert was a lovely contrasting dish with red fruits and silky smooth mousse.

The service was good but I was disappointed not to see more smiles from the waitresses, they all looked a little glum and absent.

Lux Stockholm offers exceptionally attractive experimental food that pushes the boundaries of Michelin starred cuisine whilst showing off Stockholm’s finest produce and traditions.

More information here: http://luxstockholm.com/

Thanks to visitstockholm.com follow them on twitter for news and information, @visitswedenuk