Tag Archives: wine

Chez Bruce, Wandsworth

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Of all the London Michelin star restaurants I have visited, Chez Bruce wins my favourite. Both meals I have experienced here have been the perfect balance between fine cuisine and deliciously tasty food. Bruce proves that Michelin meals don’t have to be pretentious and overly experimental to win prizes. Located just a short walk from Wandsworth Common train station, the venue is less challenging to find than many may think and is only a brief journey from Victoria. The nearby green is perfect for an after lunch stroll.

Chez Bruce is part of a trio of wonderful London restaurants, which includes La Trompette in Chiswick and The Glasshouse in Kew. La Trompette is also a favourite of mine, and I have heard very good things about The Glasshouse. All three pride themselves on providing honest, exceptional food, prepared immaculately with a strong French influence.

A small and unassuming dining room is the home of Chez Bruce, it feels like you are eating in a cosy sitting room with simple design and comforting decor. The clientele seems to range enormously from young food enthusiasts to older knowledgeable restaurant regulars. It is clear immediately that every food lover is welcome here, and it emanates a lovely relaxed atmosphere.

The wine list is affordable and varied with something for every palate. Unexperienced and impressionable in this department, both times we have opted for simple fresh white and the champagne… and have found them to be delicious and very drinkable. Before the three courses begin, guests are treated to parmesan shortbread biscuits and ultra soft rosemary focaccia bread, they are both so good I would come to the restaurant just for these!

After two visits we have tried far too much incredible food to list here but a few favourites stand out. Salad of pork belly with jerusalem artichokes, salsa verde, chorizo, watercress and crackling was a beautifully constructed dish made from carefully selected ingredients, the meats and vegetables matched perfectly to create an addictively good starter. Tagliatelle of chanterelles with salsify, thyme and parmesan was another miraculously tasty dish, startlingly simple but just so good with homemade pasta and the creamiest, lightest sauce you can imagine.

For mains we have sampled amazing Venison loin with shoulder vol au vent, spiced carrot puree and sauce poivade which was a glorious wintery meaty recipe. Roast phesant with bacon and onion dumpling, brussel sprouts, chestnuts and sage was a brilliant version of the familiar festive meal, with every component beautifully cooked and seasoned.

The desserts at Chez Bruce are simple and stylish. Classics include an exquisite creme brulee, and more unusual ideas include a refreshing Yorkshire rhubarb and vanilla cheesecake with mandarin sorbet and orange zest or for cocoa lovers, a dangerously luxurious Hot chocolate and almond pudding with praline parfait. The meal finishes with a pot of homemade chocolate truffles which you can eat in the restaurant or take away as a little momento of the meal.

Bruce doesn’t just provide delicious food for hungry foodies, he inspires food lovers to try his easy recipes to create these amazing dishes themselves. I am a convert, and as soon as I have my own kitchen will be using his cookbook on a regular basis.

More information here: www.chezbruce.co.uk/

The Bingham restaurant, Richmond

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We both had a nightmare journey getting to the Bingham. My poor friend and her broken sat-nav got completely lost in Surrey suburbia while I battled with a horribly aggressive taxi driver, who insisted on getting out of his car and shouting at me as I ran to the hotel doors. I was relieved to be greeted by the smiling Bingham staff, who escorted me gently to the lounge and blazing log fire. Externally the Bingham Hotel has a low profile, this sophisticated Georgian Townhouse could easily be mistaken for a private property. Inside, there is a quiet buzz of activity as guests and visitors enjoy the comforting surroundings. I rested as I waited for the other distressed member of my lunch party.

Almost half an hour later than our original booking time and we were finally ready to go… we apologised profusely though the waiters seemed completely unfazed and instead offered warm welcomes and a lovely corner table overlooking the restaurant.

The smart light and airy dining room is luxuriously appointed with wooden flooring and French windows revealing a lovely al fresco balcony for summer… this stunning room raised our expectations. This restaurant once had a Michelin star, but two years ago lost it for no apparent reason, and in 2012 failed to regain it, again without explanation. We wondered why throughout our lunch.

Guests can choose between the reasonable but restricted market menu, the six course tasting menu or the a la carte. Interested by the variety in the a la carte, we both chose this option. Chef Shay Cooper uses the freshest seasonal ingredients to create irresistible Modern British cuisine and we thought this was best exemplified in the full menu.

To start:

Venison tartare with preserved vegetable salad, foie gras mousse, horseradish creme fraiche

Winter vegetable salad with crispy onions, organic leaves, goats curd, walnut vinaigrette

For main:

Cornish Stone Bass with braised endive, artichoke, glazed salsify, potato gnocchi, bergamot lemon, mushroom vinaigrette

Saddle of rabbit with grilled pear, cured ham, smoked celeriac, braised rabbit, truffle sauce

To finish:

Selection of British and Continental cheeses

Mascarpone Mousse with candied pistachios, espresso ice cream, hot valrhona chocolate sauce

Salted Butter Caramel with apple compote, cider cream, bitter chocolate vanilla ice cream

After a delicious vegetarian mousse amuse bouche we decided to leave the bread, avoiding the risk of becoming too full to enjoy the meal. Service was professional but relaxed and very efficient throughout. Our waiter seemed to possess impressive expert knowledge on all of the food and wines. The dishes were presented in an incredibly clean and attractive way, and thanks to the natural daylight in the restaurant each plate really did look beautiful.

The Winter salad was one of the best I’ve ever tried… a variety of different colours, textures and tastes make what could be a very boring choice into an imaginative feast of flavour. The soft creamy goats curd was matched with crunchy leaves and sweet caramelised vegetables, every mouthful was different. The venison was carefully arranged with the other components, green lettuce and pink onion adding colour, another artistic masterpiece.

Mains were the perfect size, both wholesome, well balanced dishes. The delicate and light Stone Bass was served with a variety of subtly flavoured vegetables to avoid overpowering the fish and a rich and creamy gnocchi cheese on the side for eating with the fish or separately afterwards. The rabbit was exquisite, wrapped in Iberico ham and precisely cooked so that the rabbit was tender but the ham was crispy and almost caramelised. The grilled pear was a surprisingly delicious addition to the dish and the truffle sauce added a touch of extra indulgence.

After a round of the best cheeses to share, from the Teddington Cheese shop up the road, it was time for puddings. The list of sweet options all sounded so tempting that it took some time to choose our final two… and even then we promised we’d share. Interestingly we both had our favourites… for me the clear winner was the salted butter caramel, a wicked dessert with an odd but brilliant mix of flavours. The chocolate salted caramel disc in the centre was soft and buttery and worked well with the acidic apple compote and the sweet cider cream. Definitely in my top three desserts I’ve eaten, ever. The mascarpone mousse was completely unique and faultlessly tasty too. Hot chocolate sauce is poured over the hard chocolate casing to melt a piercing hole. The light creamy mousse is mixed indulgently with the chocolate, and the nuts add a bit of exotic crunch.

With our strong coffees we received a final plate of treats… tiny heavenly handmade petit fours: macaroons, bailey truffles and fruit jellies.

The Bingham restaurant is better than many 2 Michelin star restaurants I have eaten in and I feel completely baffled by the board’s decision to withdraw the one star. This eatery deserves the highest recognition for offering the finest food, a magnificent menu and exemplary service. I would recommend this restaurant to even the fussiest foodies and the meanest critics.
More information here.

www.thebingham.co.uk

Drakes, Ripley

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Drakes is in Ripley near Woking, but please don’t let the location put you off… I would travel to and from Woking every day for food this good. The cuisine is amongst the best I’ve ever experienced and the restaurant is utterly charming.

On a Saturday lunchtime there were numerous menu options available, the set and tasting menus are named flavour discoveries and explore seasonal produce.

Steve Drake is an energetic enthusiast in the kitchen, keen to create food which is both healthy and innovative. When we visited, his latest toy was a clay oven used to immaculately cook the cauliflower in one of our courses.

The a la carte menu looked exemplary but I was pleased to find a special flavour journey had already been decided for us… this way I could skip the agonising choosing process and try a larger selection of small dishes, rather than the standard three courses. I would definitely recommend ordering this way, it is a more exciting and refreshing way of sampling what’s on offer. Drakes believe this way of eating offers: intrigue, adventure, flavour, simplicity and discovery.

Our Flavour Journey

Snacks

Quail, Rhubarb Gel, Foie Gras, Compressed Lettuce

Scallop, Clay Baked Cauliflower, Raisin Puree, Curry Oil

Monkfish, Pumpkin Yolk, Crisp Mussels, Alexanders

Slow Cooked Mutton Shoulder, Heirloom Carrots, Tarragon Oil

Parsnip Ice Cream, Blackberries, Sorrel Ice

Pear cooked in ‘Beurre Noisette’ Goat’s Milk, Hibiscus, Crystalised Vodka

Chocolate Breakfast

So as you can see there is far too much too talk about in this review… instead I will pay attention to the most vivid memories that remain with me a week after dining at Drakes. The ‘Snacks’ they refer to so bashfully in the menu were exquisite, and all in miniature: pork fritters with cider vinegar jam, quinoa crackers with dandelion puree, duck’s heart with chicken broth and red pepper brioche balls. It was a borrower’s meal in itself, fun and full of flavour.

My fish was kindly substituted with vegetarian ingredients, the staff delicately enquire at the start of the meal if any guests have specific dietary requirements. Of the itemised courses the quail, monkfish and pear really stood out for me.

The quail is cooked to perfection with a subtle caramelly sauce. It is elegantly presented with small slices of creamy foie gras and wonderful compressed lettuce. The monkfish is a dish of surprises, a beautiful piece of fish with a pumpkin sauce pretending to be a yolk (the encased pumpkin bubble is heated to 50 degrees so that only the middle melts). The sugary buttery pear is to die for, a typically French idea juxtaposed with peculiarly refreshing goat’s milk ice cream and shockingly fabulous tiny crystallised vodka pieces. The only course I was less wild about was the mutton which in comparison to the rest was a little bland.

The wine journey paralleling the food was a real highlight of the meal for us. Eight highly original and exciting choices were delivered just before each plate of food. The sommelier was not only precise and professional but showed huge, genuine enthusiasm and passion for wine. His approach was humorous throughout proffering anecdotes and stories about each bottle. His expert knowledge was obvious when he spoke of discovering unknown wines such as the South Australian First Drop ‘The Mother of all Harvests’ and Austria’s exquisite Weinland ‘Theodora’. For the first time ever I understood the wine while appreciating it. Drakes has a truly special sommelier who I’m sure would bring wonderfully unexpected wines to accompany any meal.

I truly am in awe of the Drakes team for creating such a spectacular restaurant and a miraculous, magical menu. I think the photos prove my point.

More information here.

www.drakesrestaurant.co.uk

Le Paris, Lutetia Hotel, Paris

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Hotel Lutetia in Saint Germain des Pres is an empire embodying Parisian style and luxury. This grand building was built in 1910 as the first Art Deco hotel in Paris. The stature and elegance remains intact today and it is a very desirable place to stay and eat.

Prestigious restaurant “Le Paris” gained a Michelin star for its spectacular rendition of contemporary French cuisine. The food is offered in a beautiful, intimate dining room, with designs by trendy fashion designer Sonia Rykiel. Harking back to a bygone era, it is a place of seductive sophistication.

Executive chef Philippe Renard has said of his menu: “My passion is to create around seasonal products but especially starting from the traditional cuisine that I like to revisit and to adapt to current tastes. My tendency is to focus on the good product. I campaign for the “eating well” and I am convinced that it is essential to eat everything in small quantities.”

With this in mind Le Paris menu has two options, small or large portions, available from starter through to dessert. A sensible suggestion for foodies with smaller appetites or those wishing to try a range of dishes from the menu. After a glass of bubbly, we were faced with the tricky task of choosing from the dazzling menu.

Our final selection was as follows:

To start:
Erquy scallops marinated with Clementine, with Chablis white wine mustard sauce, old fashioned vegetables and Roscoff seaweed tartar
Landes duck “foie gras” with black truffle mushroom from Vaucluse, cannelloni, and artichoke with hazelnut

For main:
Pyrenees milk fed lamb roasted with thyme, salsify with parmesan cheese and pine nuts, Brussel sprouts mashed potato
“Cros de la Geline” guinea fowl, roasted with Vaucluse black truffle mushrooms, green cabbage with “ventreche” slice of pork and chestnuts

Marie Anne Cantin cheese selection and Poujaran bread

To finish:
Saint-Honore with chestnuts and a light cream with rum and raisins
The “chocolate experience”

The scallops were a challenging raw fish starter with a sort of mustard coleslaw, a bizarre combination of flavours. The foie gras suited us better, a very rich but perfectly balanced dish with a subtle smokiness from the artichoke, the contrasting soft, sweet foie gras and a kick from the wonderfully woody black truffle, ultra-thin, placed delicately on top.

The mains were both enormous portions, we opted for the larger size which in retrospect was definitely a mistake. Comforting, juicy meat paired with cheesy vegetables, the lamb was absolutely delicious, but my favourite part of the course was the brussel sprout mashed potato, which was surprisingly tasty, creamy and addictive! The guinea fowl was lovely too, a bird which is not used enough in restaurants. Again this recipe included black truffles as they are in season, and was placed on a bed of complimenting soft cabbage with salty pork.

Wines were chosen by the sommelier as we went along, a selection of winning French varieties. Although the restaurant felt very smart, with guests only speaking in hushed voices, the staff tried hard to make our meal more relaxed and less formal, for which I was very grateful.

Mouthfuls of caramely delight arrived as a palate cleanser, the ideal mix of creamy ice-cream, mango and spun sugar. The Lutetia desserts were spectacular, amazing constructions carefully arranged to look as impressive as they tasted. My chocolate experience was a heavenly trio of puddings, rich but manageable. The Saint Honore cake is a famous French treat that our waiter insisted we tried. It was light and airy, decorated immaculately with edible gold leaf.

The gastronomic delights of Le Paris are served up in an enchanting setting which will take you back to the glamorous 1930′s. A wonderful restaurant in a magnificent hotel, both are well worth travelling to experience.

More information and book here.

Things to do in Paris 2013

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Paris is heavenly all year round. Here are some discoveries from my latest winter trip…

Food

Camion qui Fume: Find this van. Best burger I’ve tasted in a long while. Sloppy but deliciously assembled, flavoursome but not too rich… accompanied by hand-chipped fries. Queue (for ages) and beg, borrow or steal one of these magnificent baps (the lady behind us resorted to bribery when she was denied one!)

Benoit: Alain Ducasse’s perfect French bistro serving up traditional dishes and familiar recipes. Awarded a Michelin star unsurprisingly for the exceptional food, service and atmosphere.

Le Paris at Lutetia Hotel: Located in the spectacular Lutetia hotel, I felt like I had travelled back in time sitting in the ornate Sonia Rykiel designed Le Paris dining room. Fine dining at its best.

Drink

Le Coq: Heard of Tony Conigliaro? He bought us gems like 69 Colbrooke Row, now he’s teamed up with French bar masterminds to create Le Coq, a hip place serving incredible cocktails and indulgent cheese and charcuterie boards.

Experimental Cocktail Club: A smaller and less conspicuous version of the London bar. Fine drinks are mixed up by the suited and booted barmen. Unique and inventive ECC recipes continue to enamour the Parisian guests.

Angelina’s: The thickest, most luxurious hot chocolate in town. Queue for a table in the lovely salon or pick up a cup to go, it will warm your hands and hearts while you wander round the city.

To Do

Catacombes:  ‘Stop. This is the Empire of Death,’ an engraved sign reads. A spooky underground world, and a must see site in Paris. With public burial pits overflowing in the era of Revolutionary terror the Catacombes were created to house the bones of six million people. Follow the 2 km tunnels to discover millions of bones and skulls from residents of Paris’s past.

Cruise down the Seine: Pick up a boat at the foot of the Eiffel Tower and travel past the great sites of Paris. As you float down the river, point out the familiar buildings, bridges and statues, a delightful way to see the city. More information and book with Viator here.

Palais de Tokyo: Why have I never discovered this venue before? This epic 1937 building opened in 2002 as an open-plan space hosting exhibitions and performances. Wacky work, super shop, cool cafe and best of all… a vintage Photomaton machine, jump in and pose away, create a strip of memories for just 2 euros!

To shop

Mariage Freres: A tea heaven, beautiful boxes and aromatic tea. MF have several outlets including a convenient shop just by the entrance to the Louvre.

Colette: The queen of the concept shops: books, shoes, cameras, jewellery, stationery, clothes, candles… and everything else you could possibly want to find. Everything is quirky, rare and utterly desirable.

The Kooples: The original; a cheaper and more varied collection in comparison to the UK branches. Get a Kooples outfit and you’ll fit in fine among the Frenchies.

To Stay

Hotel Legend: This dinky boutique hotel is ideally located for tourist trips. Crisp white minimalist rooms are a comfortable and attractive place to rest your head. Perhaps the most exciting feature is the impressive memory foams beds which ensure a deep and dreamy night’s sleep.

Hotel Seven: Special themed suites make this hotel one of a kind. Alice in Wonderland and 007 decorated rooms are just two of the suites on offer. Stylish and swish, this little hotel promises a memorable stay.

Book the Eurostar a few months in advance and you can travel for less than £70 return. I’m looking forward to my next trip already!

Thanks to the Paris Tourist Board, more information here.

London House, Woking

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London House Restaurant has the longest waiting list in Woking! Owner and head chef Ben Piette took a brave plunge into the competitive world of restauranteurs in 2011 after travelling on a one way ticket from his home town, Frejus in the south of France. His restaurant has since been the talk of the town, and one of Surrey’s most popular jaunts.

As a proud Provencale girl myself, I was intrigued by Ben’s roots and his move from the vibrant Riviera to the rather less sunny outskirts of London. His menu relies on French recipes and techniques but certainly has a hint of British too.

He offers modern food with an emphasis on flavour and great produce. We were treated to our pick from the four course, a la carte menu with wine pairings chosen by our knowledgeable waiter.

After a round of wonderfully soft bread with sweet balsamic and olive oil, we were offered smoked salmon amuse-bouches, perfectly formed mini mouthfuls. Starters brought both the highest and lowest point to the meal: an exquisite winter squash veloute with basil parmesan butter and a bagful of seeds was perfectly flavoured and wonderfully smooth, but the potted duck with marinated duck skewer was diappointingly served cold and this made the taste suffer.

We both opted for meat mains next, though a fish course is available for hungrier diners. As the restaurant became busier the service a little slower and so our thoughtful waiter bought along two surprise bowls of cullen skink with duck egg molle, beignets and baby spinach. The mains were substantial and hearty, just what you need for winter. Roasted rump of hogget (an older lamb) and Pan seared fillet of beef with slowed cooked ox cheek. Both meats were well cooked, though could have perhaps been slightly rarer, if I’m being fussy. The hogget was accompanied by complementing carrot and celeriac (so good I would have appreciated a bit more of it), wilted baby gem and sweet balsamic jus. Less traditional, the beef arrived on a bed of lasagne pasta, far too filling but intriguing nonetheless.

After a shot glass of strawberry milkshake not dissimilar to fromage frais, our desserts arrived. Split into simple categories, we chose the Citrus and Treacle options from the list. The puddings at London House are perhaps the most experimental of the dishes. The Lemon tart came with meringues, poached clems, cranberry, pomegranate and shortbread, an interesting mix of flavours which I couldn’t quite decide on. The Treacle sponge was remarkably plain but did become exciting once garnished with the Armagnac clotted cream and pine nut croquante. Dark chocolate truffles and fresh mint tea were a lovely conclusion to the meal.

We were first to arrive and last to leave the restaurant on this particular Tuesday night, which just proves how much we enjoyed our time at London House. In the capital London House would have to fight hard for the top spot, but in Woking this little independent restaurant deserves the credit it receives.

More information here.

http://www.londonhouseoldwoking.co.uk/

Onyx, Budapest

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What with the inconvenient snowfall and the pathetic English panic, our flight to Budapest was looking unlikely. I spent the day refreshing the Gatwick page frantically praying for a change in weather conditions. Luckily, though many routes were cancelled, our plane to Budapest was going ahead, albeit an hour or two late.

The majority of my concern was based around the possibility of missing our dinner reservation at one of Hungary’s two Michelin star restaurants. Awarded the prestigious star in 2011, Onyx is the second restaurant in the country to receive this precious accolade (the first being Costes). This elegant, petite restaurant is located upstairs in the famous Gerbeaud Coffeehouse on Budapest’s Showroom Square. Chef Szabina Szullo is creative and ambitious, presenting typical Hungarian dishes with a twist. The portions are small, the food rich, and you will be treated to numerous courses, we counted at least six.

The warm carpeted interior and marble-clad design is lavish and inviting. We found the restaurant very comfortable and relaxed. The menu du jour sat inconspicuously on the table, and the waiter was polite and understanding when I asked if I could change my starter choice. Wine pairings were selected for us by the expert sommelier, and I was delighted with his Hungarian choices. To start a glass of exceptional Cremant arriving, very light with tiny bubbles. The bread trolley was very impressive with at least ten types to choose from, baffled by the range, we let the waiter pick a basket. Each with a different flavour and texture this was a bread experience unlike any other with the added excitement of accompaniments: pate, butter and cottage cheese.

Before the starters arrived, we were given a trio of tasters each, artfully arranged mini bites. A shot glass of warm cauliflower cream soup, razor clam with carpaccio and a pea puree with poached quail’s egg. Immaculate to look at, and sensational for the palate. The starter that followed was perhaps my favourite part of the meal: two appropriately warming soups (it was minus 6 outside), bean soup with langoustine and grilled bacon and pumpkin oil soup with rabbit belly. My pumpkin soup was absolutely divine, so subtly spiced and prettily presented with lean rabbit meat and crunchy pumpkin seeds for textural contrast. The bean soup was also impressive, the terracotta orange liquid poured over the delicate crustacean and foam decoration.

For the main course a hearty Hungarian red wine was brought to us and poured into posh, giant wine glasses. This was the ideal accompaniment for the Saddle of lamb with sweetbreads and lung stuffed ravioli, aubergine and lemon grass jus. This plate looked surprisingly small and yet the exquisite food filled us up, two wonderful chunks of peppered meat, red and juicy with a thick and satisfying texture. Alongside the lamb were lovely handmade ravioli, smokey aubergine puree (the only part I wasn’t 100% sure about), lightly grilled shallot, and courgette with the flower cooked to perfection. The sauce tasted slightly oriental and added a warmth to the meat.

Pre-dessert most often consists of an odd flavoured sorbet but Onyx excelled in conjuring up something appetising that still cleansed your palate. A tiny bowl of passionfruit cream, mango sorbet, white chocolate mousse, caramel sauce, pineapple, chocolate brownie and shortbread crumbs. A pause between courses for just a few mouthfuls of heaven.

For pudding we were given the the Onyx rendition of Tiramisu, which used the familiar flavours of the Italian dessert but in an entirely different way: ultra rich chocolate torte style cake with a moreish biscuit base and caramel layer, topped with a perfect sphere of mascapone, white coffee ice-cream and amaretto jelly with vanilla cream. What is there not to like? The dessert featured all my favourite flavours used in a unique and artistic way to create a pudding that was wonderfully indulgent and miraculously original.

Last but certainly not least came the trolley of petit fours, there was extensive choice. Intricate tiny cakes and sweets mimicking the traditional Hungarian dessert recipes. Adorable and delicious, each completely different in taste. As a parting gift, we were given little black onyx boxes, filled with two final sweets, a green tea macaroon and a pistachio praline chocolate, perfect for the taxi ride home.

Our Michelin meal at Onyx was a memorable highlight of the trip and I would recommend this magnificent eatery to anyone visiting Budapest. It is a chance to experience the finest Hungarian recipes and ingredients in a sophisticated setting with faultless service.

More information here.

http://www.onyxrestaurant.hu/

Antico, Bermondsey

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Bermondsey Street is one of my favourite London roads and it seems to be getting even better with the arrival of lovely restaurants like Antico. This relaxed eatery serves up traditional and stylish Italian cuisine in a charming and comfortable setting. The restaurant is cheerful and chirpy with accommodating and thoughtful staff, the perfect place to meet with friends for an evening meal and catch up.

As I often do, I tweeted before my visit to Antico, and the online team advised me to try two things: the Aperol Spritz aperitif and the special venison ragu. Naturally I chose both… Aperol seems to be very on trend at the moment, the luminous marigold orange spirit is served in a large glass with prosecco and a splash of soda, plenty of ice cubes and a segment of orange. It felt like a very vintage and fun drink to sip.

The starters are very generous: I chose the Burrata, aubergine, caramelised onions, rocket and hazelnuts, my guest ordered Devon crab with radish, shallots and rocket. Both were cleverly constructed: delicate flavours combined to create attractive and delectable dishes. If you like the rich and creamy taste of burrata you will love this recipe, a unique contrast of subtle cheese, soft tangy onions, peppery rocket and crunchy nuts. The crab looked appealing too, a delicate, light starter. To accompany our meal I trusted our waitress to choose a suitable white… she returned with a bottle of Inama – Campo dei Tovi Soave Classico 2010, refreshing and fruity.

My venison ragu was insanely good, tender torn meat and intensely flavoured sauce with delicious homemade pasta. The bowl arrived with a side shot of liqueur to be drunk with the dish however the diner chooses. I wasn’t quite sure about this addition, apparently some decide to pour it in to mix with the pasta, I chose to just sip it occasionally. My guest chose the Ribeye steak (35 day aged) with marinated grilled zucchini & peperonata… it was a good piece of meat cooked exactly to specification with fresh and vibrant vegetables, though seemed a little bland compared to my exquisite pasta.

There wasn’t much space for puddings but we tried a couple from the select menu. The tiramisu was rather clumsily presented but tasted authentic and indulgent. My guest chose a simple bowl of caramel gelato, homemade and creamy. Had I been less concerned about sleeping that night, I would have tried the coffee which judging by a nearby table, looked divine.

I haven’t visited many good Italian restaurants in London, so I was delighted to discover Antico. If you manage to make it along, try to visit on a Wednesday when they have live music for the guests to enjoy while they eat.

Visit the website here for more information.

Dehesa, Soho

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Dehesa is the third member of the Salt Yard team, a group of restaurants I believe to be among the very best in London. Each offering a similar menu of Italian inspired tapas, it is a treat for all the senses to visit one of these eateries.

The chatter and laughter is audible from the street, just like its sister restaurants, Dehesa is conducive to fun and enjoyment, you cannot help but have a good time. We waited a while before being seated, choosing to wander along Carnaby Street to work up an appetite while our table was prepared.

Squeezing in at the corner of the bar, we glanced at the menu, knowing almost immediately what we desired. A glass of the house wine each, red for my friend, white for me and a selection of charcuterie, cheese, bread, salad and patatas bravas… perhaps the perfect meal?

One thing you must know about the Salt Yard group… their wine list is supreme, even the cheapest house wine (£4 a glass) is really very good and the Prosecco on offer is always delicious.

Everything was divine, no surprises there. Toasted bread and aioli is a simple but heavenly combination, ideal for an initial snack; then slivers of chilli and marjoram salami, only served at the Dehesa outlet – it is very worth trying… intensely flavoured and totally addictive, I guarantee it will disappear from the table within seconds. Manchego cheese is yummy as ever, three ages are presented with fruity membrillo and crunchy slices of bread.

Warm Salad of Baby Artichokes, Cime Di Rappa, Goats Curd and Spicy Almonds was a lovely and intriguing combination, providing a little greenery to accompany the meat and cheese. For a bit of naughtiness the fat potato chips are perfect, covered in red spiciness and served with a pot of dipping aioli, we found we were so greedy we needed to order two extra portions of aioli for dunking.

Unfussy, bold food that is utterly scrumptious: for £20 a head you will enjoy a feast of tapas and wine. I would eat in the Salt Yard restaurants every night if I could.

Visit the website here for more information.

Le Cinq, Four Seasons, Paris

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Visiting a hotel as special and iconic as the Four Seasons in Paris, I tend to feel like I am flitting about in a feature film – the freshest white roses beautifying every corner, attentive and attractive staff assisting with kind, genuine smiles and music tinkling lyrically down the hall. We cancelled our evening plans to enjoy the heavenly hotel facilities and eat at Le Cinq, the Michelin starred eatery in the palatial dining room.

Entering the elaborate banqueting hall, we had no idea of the fourteen course feast we were about to experience. Despite attempting to dress for the occasion we both immediately felt out of place… this is the type of restaurant where ballgowns ARE appropriate attire for supper. Girls can get away with a simple silk dress but my poor date was asked to wear a suit jacket (which the restaurant have at the ready in their wardrobe for unkempt guests!) Apparently though one size fits all and his slim frame was engulfed in a 50 inch cloak of a coat which he then had to sit draped in for the whole meal. This presented two problems: he was ridiculously overheated and felt terribly awkward (sorry I don’t have a photo), but the situation also provoked in me hysterical and irrepressible giggles for at least the first 30 minutes of the evening.

Once I’d recovered from the hilarity (Le Cinq staff definitely didn’t get the joke) we could commence the meal. Service is exemplary at Le Cinq, every fork is placed to exact specifications, water refilled in moments and the table is set out with such care, it is fit for a King. This precision frightened me a little… all very traditional and smart – I found it difficult to relax. The food was all absolutely beautiful, just as I would expect from French fine dining. There are various menus on offer, we chose from the main menu though our decisions were strongly swayed by the persuasive waiter, obviously the chef wanted us to try very particular dishes.

Bread and miniature amuse bouches were brought every five minutes, delicate little mouthfuls of carefully concocted ingredients… all very light but full of flavour. Starters arrived as a series of intriguing plates and bowls. The chef insisted on us both trying each dish so everything came as a double, amongst all the posh eating implements crowding the table it was all a bit of a squeeze. Girolles Mushrooms and Apricot with fresh almonds and Red Mediterranean Tuna Belly. I am not a fan of fish but found the tuna was remarkably nice, soft but meaty, intensely flavoured with caviar tartar, green apple jelly and wasabi. A tangy vegetable escabeche also arrived which nicely accompanied the fish. The mushroom option came as a total of four separate plates, of which we favoured the warm and comforting broth. Stylishly presented with gold leaf floating on the surface and with a sweet onion and tarragon ravioli within the soup, it was a lovely and inventive recipe.

Our main course was spectacular. We ordered the Milk-fed Lamb Shoulder from the Aveyron Region braised with spices and fresh harissa for 17 hours, with vegetable and coriander tajine. This was a star dish served for two people and was very rustic compared to the rest of the refined dinner. The meat was utterly divine, super soft and tender and deeply flavoured with subtle spices and seasoned beautifully. The meat was carved at the table by our expert waiter and presented to us with fresh vegetables. I found the meat a little fatty for my taste but the flavour truly was sublime and it felt very special.

After the lamb the rest is rather a blur, a cheese course, a glass of the purest water in Europe – particularly interesting and refreshing! And then the series of sweets and desserts. Amaretto Souffle and Jordan Almond was an impressive pudding, generous in size with vibrant ginger and apricot marmalade, almond granita with apricot sorbet, a unique mix of flavours and textures. The pastry chef avoided making the recipe too sweet, which I was very grateful for. Souffle is certainly not an easy recipe to master, unsurprisingly Le Cinq had perfected it and the texture was airy and light, the ideal dessert after a large rich meal. George V style Fraisier was a clever interpretation on the classic tart, served with strawberry granita, sour ewe’s milk sorbet with olive oil. The assortment of ingredients sounds odd, but miraculously combined to create a pretty and well balanced dessert. Saving the best till last it was finally our turn to pick from the sweet trolley. An exciting array of colourful cakes, chocolates and long fat marshmallows, a fun end to the serious meal.

Le Cinq offers fine French cuisine in an exquisite setting, providing all the elements for a memorable and magnificent meal. I recommend staying in the hotel afterwards, trust me after fourteen courses you will need one of their luxurious beds.

More information for Le Cinq here.

http://www.fourseasons.com/paris/dining/