Visiting a hotel as special and iconic as the Four Seasons in Paris, I tend to feel like I am flitting about in a feature film – the freshest white roses beautifying every corner, attentive and attractive staff assisting with kind, genuine smiles and music tinkling lyrically down the hall. We cancelled our evening plans to enjoy the heavenly hotel facilities and eat at Le Cinq, the Michelin starred eatery in the palatial dining room.
Entering the elaborate banqueting hall, we had no idea of the fourteen course feast we were about to experience. Despite attempting to dress for the occasion we both immediately felt out of place… this is the type of restaurant where ballgowns ARE appropriate attire for supper. Girls can get away with a simple silk dress but my poor date was asked to wear a suit jacket (which the restaurant have at the ready in their wardrobe for unkempt guests!) Apparently though one size fits all and his slim frame was engulfed in a 50 inch cloak of a coat which he then had to sit draped in for the whole meal. This presented two problems: he was ridiculously overheated and felt terribly awkward (sorry I don’t have a photo), but the situation also provoked in me hysterical and irrepressible giggles for at least the first 30 minutes of the evening.
Once I’d recovered from the hilarity (Le Cinq staff definitely didn’t get the joke) we could commence the meal. Service is exemplary at Le Cinq, every fork is placed to exact specifications, water refilled in moments and the table is set out with such care, it is fit for a King. This precision frightened me a little… all very traditional and smart – I found it difficult to relax. The food was all absolutely beautiful, just as I would expect from French fine dining. There are various menus on offer, we chose from the main menu though our decisions were strongly swayed by the persuasive waiter, obviously the chef wanted us to try very particular dishes.
Bread and miniature amuse bouches were brought every five minutes, delicate little mouthfuls of carefully concocted ingredients… all very light but full of flavour. Starters arrived as a series of intriguing plates and bowls. The chef insisted on us both trying each dish so everything came as a double, amongst all the posh eating implements crowding the table it was all a bit of a squeeze. Girolles Mushrooms and Apricot with fresh almonds and Red Mediterranean Tuna Belly. I am not a fan of fish but found the tuna was remarkably nice, soft but meaty, intensely flavoured with caviar tartar, green apple jelly and wasabi. A tangy vegetable escabeche also arrived which nicely accompanied the fish. The mushroom option came as a total of four separate plates, of which we favoured the warm and comforting broth. Stylishly presented with gold leaf floating on the surface and with a sweet onion and tarragon ravioli within the soup, it was a lovely and inventive recipe.
Our main course was spectacular. We ordered the Milk-fed Lamb Shoulder from the Aveyron Region braised with spices and fresh harissa for 17 hours, with vegetable and coriander tajine. This was a star dish served for two people and was very rustic compared to the rest of the refined dinner. The meat was utterly divine, super soft and tender and deeply flavoured with subtle spices and seasoned beautifully. The meat was carved at the table by our expert waiter and presented to us with fresh vegetables. I found the meat a little fatty for my taste but the flavour truly was sublime and it felt very special.
After the lamb the rest is rather a blur, a cheese course, a glass of the purest water in Europe – particularly interesting and refreshing! And then the series of sweets and desserts. Amaretto Souffle and Jordan Almond was an impressive pudding, generous in size with vibrant ginger and apricot marmalade, almond granita with apricot sorbet, a unique mix of flavours and textures. The pastry chef avoided making the recipe too sweet, which I was very grateful for. Souffle is certainly not an easy recipe to master, unsurprisingly Le Cinq had perfected it and the texture was airy and light, the ideal dessert after a large rich meal. George V style Fraisier was a clever interpretation on the classic tart, served with strawberry granita, sour ewe’s milk sorbet with olive oil. The assortment of ingredients sounds odd, but miraculously combined to create a pretty and well balanced dessert. Saving the best till last it was finally our turn to pick from the sweet trolley. An exciting array of colourful cakes, chocolates and long fat marshmallows, a fun end to the serious meal.
Le Cinq offers fine French cuisine in an exquisite setting, providing all the elements for a memorable and magnificent meal. I recommend staying in the hotel afterwards, trust me after fourteen courses you will need one of their luxurious beds.
More information for Le Cinq here.
