It is no secret that Londoners love a good Indian curry. It is the ultimate Friday night treat, and the search for the best on offer is endless. Recently, with the arrival of Gymkhana, fine Indian dining has become the focus of our cravings, and high quality Indian eateries seem to be appearing all over London. Moti Mahal Covent Garden is the chic London outpost of the celebrated Delhi restaurant which opened in 1959. The London location is not new but it felt new to me as I’ve never visited previously.
We turned up at eight on a Friday evening when the restaurant was already full of animated guests, appreciating the comforting cuisine. Sitting towards the rear of the restaurant where it was quieter, we were able to speak to the waiter at length about the concept and flick through the vibrantly illustrated cookbook. The emphasis at Moti Mahal is on the food traditions that surround the Grand Trunk Road, one of Asia’s oldest, longest and most significant major routes. Delhi-born Anirudh Arora has operated as Head Chef since the restaurant’s opening in 2005. The menu focuses on Arora’s passion for the cuisine of India’s famed road.
The menu is long and laborious to peruse, instead listen to the advice of your waiter and order based on his suggestions. If you are feeling very hungry and adventurous, you can opt for the tasting menu which gives you a flavour of the different regions of India. We tasted a range of starters and mains, so many that I was grateful for the small portions. To start, the trio of chicken tikka was wonderful, presented in a grand copper urn on very long metal grilling sticks. The marinades are intensely flavoured and the meat was juicy and tender with a lovely charcoal edge. We also loved the Thatee Grill Gosht (Butterflied lamb leg) coated in a thick garlic and chilli yoghurt, cooked to perfection with a marinade so good I wanted to lick the plate.
Murgh Makhani (Butter chicken) is a must. This faultless recipe from Delhi involves chicken tikka chunks simmered in a creamy tomato sauce. The portion isn’t huge so I guarantee there will be a fight for that last mouthful. We also tried the Venison Meatballs, a speciality dish. The rich meat is seasoned with brown onion and yoghurt sauce, it tasted almost Italian until the spices kicked in. We also ordered buttery garlic naan and pilau rice to soak up all the addictive sauces.
For dessert we managed to fit in a round of kulfi (Indian ice-cream) which arrived in assorted flavours on sticks, looking not dissimilar to mini-milks. In fact they tasted quite similar too, though the flavours were more inventive: mango, rose, pistachio. It was a lovely and simple pudding to cool our tastebuds after the spicy meal.
So what is the downside to all this exquisite food? It comes at a price. Smaller dishes are priced around £10 each, main courses are between £20 and £25, which all adds up when you want a few sides to share and a vegetable dish to accompany the meat.
The elaborate drinks menu matches the food in style: tropical cocktails and unique gins with tonic, or just simply a bottle of high quality, carefully chosen wine. We tasted the cocktails which were strong and nicely garnished, though a little sweet for me. Beer or wine suits the Indian flavours much better.
Producing modern and sophisticated cuisine with a sensitivity to the traditions of authentic Indian cooking, Moti Mahal exceeded all my expectations. Thanks to its location, this restaurant is the perfect option for pre or post theatre meals, or go on a Friday night and treat yourself to one of London’s better curries.
More information and book here: motimahal-uk.com



























