Things to do in Venice

This magical drowned city is quite unlike anywhere I’ve ever visited before. Functioning almost solely for tourists you’d assume the city would be tacky and lacking in culture. Quite the opposite. Beautiful bridges and basilicas, hidden foodie delights and a breathtakingly view from every street and every square. Let me introduce you to Italy’s most miraculous city, Venice.

To stay

Generator Hostel Venice – feel part of the coolest club in town at this hip and handsome hostel on Giudecca island, opposite the main island of Venice. With spectacular views and cool retro design you definitely get more than just good value for money!

To eat

All’Arco – avoid the tourist traps and head for this little bacari for a selection of cicchetti (small snacks). After picking 9 assorted mouthful sized bites we sat outside on the street with the rest of the guests. I can particular recommended the grilled aubergine with tomato and cheese.

Cip’s Club –  With the most spectacular views over Venice, this outdoors restaurant at the smart Ciprani Hotel is booked early in advance. Sip at a light Italian white wine, devour the breadcrumbed veal escalope and marvel at the sunset over the water. Perfect for a special celebration or occasion.

Arte della Pizza – Don’t expect to find tasty pizza on every street, it isn’t famous here like other Italian cities. If you do crave it everyone agrees that Arte della Pizza is the place to go. Avoid the precooked thick pizza on display, instead order a fresh pizza with your own choice of toppings. With such delicious dough and fresh ingredients, it really is the best in town.

Trattoria Ca D’Oro alla Vedova – famous for its irresistible polpette (meatballs) this traditional trattoria is hidden at the end of a narrow alley. For fresh, seasonal and reasonably priced vibrant Italian food and wine this is a brilliant option. I opted for an exquisite plate of Bucatini pasta with bacon, onions, tomato and pecorino.

To drink

Londra Palace bar – most will instruct you to try the famous Harry’s Bar for a Bellini… Don’t succumb to the hype, the drinks here are made with frozen peaches and cost a small fortune for an even smaller glass! Instead visit the luxurious and centrally located Londra Palace hotel for a properly made peachy pink Bellini. This bar will only use peaches when they are in season and sweet, in Spring order a Rossini (with strawberries), for Autumn a Tiziano (with red grapes) and in Winter choose a Mimosa (with oranges).

La Cantina– the waiters here are extremely proud of their Venetian lifestyle, and sneer customers who act like annoying tourists. Do what the locals do… Order a cheese and meat board to eat and their own home brewed Morgana beer to drink.

Al Merca– cheap and cheerful this little bar by Rialto market is always full of happy locals. Soak up the street atmosphere whilst enjoying a 2 euro glass of light and bubbly prosecco.

Do Mori – This classic cicchetti bar is a Venetian institution. This atmospheric little venue offers delicious bites to eat and flavoursome house wine.

Café culture

Caffe del Doge – Venice doesn’t have many great options for decent coffee. This concealed café offers one of the creamiest and richest roasts in the city. Try their speciality cappuccino topped in white chocolate crumbs.

Torrefazione marchi – This was one of my favourite finds in Venice, a charming and popular café/bar in the Cannaregio neighbourhood. The coffee aroma wafts out the door and encourages you in. Stand at the bar and order a Venexian (coffee, cocoa and milk foam) or buy a packet of their caffe della sposa ground coffee (made from eight of the best blends Arabica blends) to take home.

To see

Bridge of Sighs – Venice’s famous Bridge of Sighs was designed by Antonio Contino and was built at the beginning of the 17th century. Spanning the Rio di Palazzo (Palace River), the bridge was intended to connect the Old Prison and interrogation rooms in the Doge’s Palace to the New Prison, which was situated directly across the river. One story says that if a couple kisses under the bridge while drifting below on a gondola at sunset, they will enjoy eternal love. Thus, the “sighs” are said to come from lovers who are overwhelmed by the romance of the whole scene.

Santa Maria della Salute – The magnificent Roman Catholic church is located in the Dorsoduro sestiere of Venice. It stands on a narrow piece of land between the Grand Canal and the Bacino di San Marco so the church is visible when entering the main Piazza San Marco by water.

San Sebastien church – this beautiful church showcases the work of Renaissance painter Paolo Veronese. The stunning ceiling was completely restored back to full glory in 2012.

Rialto market – open from Monday to Saturday spend a morning strolling round this vivid food market and see endless stalls of tasty produce. Stop by a local bar to refresh with a glass of Prosecco and a snack.

To do

Go on a gondola ride – hail a striped gondola driver and float around the town for 40 minutes in this romantic mode of transport. You will see remote streets only accessible by water and wonderful little bridges. Don’t try to bargain, every boat should charge 80 euros for the standard trip, and the boats can fit up to 6 people in. Those feeling a little more adventurous should hail a Traghetto (the decommissioned old gondolas) the quickest way of travelling across the Grand Canal and perfect for accessing the city’s more obscure streets.

Climb St Mark’s clock tower – there is much less exercise involved than you’d expect. Pay your entrance fee, travel up in the lift and admire the impressive views over the whole water-work city.

Peggy Guggenheim – it was a joy to visit another Guggenheim collection. This wonderful modern art museum exhibits the private collection of American heiress Peggy Guggenheim. As the former wife of Max Ernst there are some brilliant pieces by him as well as works by Pollock, Picasso and Braque.

Enrica Rocca – Learn to cook with Venice’s favourite chef, Enrica Rocca. Having just received rave reviews for her cookbook ‘Venice on a plate’ there is no-one better to teach you about Italian culinary traditions. Her website also offers the best tips for staying and eating in the city.

To shop

VizioVirtu – a chocoholic’s heaven this little shop sells beautiful hand crafted treats. We tried the delicious and rich ganache cake.

Casa del Parmigiano – cheese freaks should head here for the best Parmesan and stock up on Italian delights like the popular Planeta olive oil.

Atelier Sagalin do Daniela Ghezzo– a magical and old fashioned shoe emporium. Admire the collection of amazing vintage pairs or design your own couture tailored pair.

Island Escapes

Lido island – when the weather is warm in Venice many head to the nearby beach island, just 20 minutes away from the centre of town by Vaparetto. Join the crowds at the rowdy public beach or enjoy the luxury of a private cabin for the day.

Torcello – a quaint and quiet almost deserted island. Appreciate the beautiful old church buildings and eat at the wonderful Locanda Cipriani restaurant, the rose filled terrace is particularly pretty.

Mazzorbo – this idyllic island is ideal for relaxing walks along the canals. I urge you to visit the spectacular Venissa Michelin starred restaurant. Owned by the Treviso-based wine and Prosecco maker, Bisol, the focus here is on immaculately presented fresh and healthy local fare. Sit outside where you can be surrounded by the rare Prosecco vines and breathe in the fragrant scented air. Our meal here was a real highlight of the trip to Venice.

Murano – Known for its colourful glass-blowing traditions, wander round this sweet island spying the craftsmen at work, and admire the bright glass objects in the museum or shops.

Burano – this picturesque island is impossible not to photograph. Filled with candy coloured houses everywhere, tourists can browse in the lace shops, dine at the casual eateries or just wander amongst the rainbow scenery.

Banyan Tree Samui, Thailand

The archipelago of southern Thailand is a tourist trap and Koh Samui, the third largest island, has been growing rapidly in popularity, attracting foreigners with its pristine beaches and laid back culture.

Initially, as we drove past Chaweng Beach, I wondered where the brochure shots came from… how could the busy strip of tacky shops and vendors be the idyllic paradise to which visitors trekked? I could not imagine the oasis at the other end of the island.

But drive a little further and you reach Banyan Tree Samui, a breathtaking, awe-inspiring property with villas perched on the green hillside. They surround a quiet secluded bay, used exclusively by the hotel guests.

The experience begins at reception where smiling staff welcome you to the view, I felt dizzy looking out… this is the postcard landscape that you will never get used to at Banyan Tree Samui. Cooling coconut water and a flower garland followed then it was all aboard the buggy with a personal butler ‘Summer’, and off to our hill crest villa. The hill grew steeper and steeper until we reached a grand wooden door. More steps led to a three room luxury villa. This elevated structure reflects traditional Thai architecture, spacious with a high ceiling and floor to ceiling windows offering views out over the Gulf of Thailand. Summer chatted away about the immaculate detailing of the facilities, I zoned out as I gawped at the view and wondered, who can I FaceTime first?

The stylish rooms show continuity with dark wood panelling, beige and brown furnishings with a touch of warmth from the burnt orange detailing. Despite the size and space the rooms feel cosy and homely. The huge white bed looks out to the incredible infinity pool which can be accessed from anywhere in your villa, and it is tempting to spend an hour struggling to take ‘selfies’ of yourself from every angle in the pool, my iPhone very nearly drowned.

Through to the bathroom and a giant indulgent bath tub looks ready to relax even the sternest of guests, black granite covers the surfaces. A glass-enclosed power-shower is also provided should you need it. Branded patterned bathrobes and wash bags are yours for the stay or available to buy to take home. We were lucky enough to see the sunrise, a spectacular vision at 6.15 in the morning.

There are numerous ways to occupy yourself whilst staying at Banyan Tree. We took part in coral replantation on the beach, which was both educational and fun, testament to the conservation work the staff do. The spa is renowned throughout Thailand boasting unrivalled facilities and expert staff; with hydrotherapy pools and a rainforest complex, there is a wealth of treatments to try. I can personally vouch for the Rainforest indulgence, a three hour experience which involves a hydro and Thermo circuit followed by a balancing massage. It is a sensory experience not to be missed.

The hotel has three exemplary restaurants: the Edge for breakfast, Saffron for traditional Thai and Sands for casual beachside cuisine. We enjoyed an atmospheric dinner at Saffron, which showcases the finest Thai flavours and cooking techniques. The meal begins with a ritualistic hand cleanse and a flower behind the ear! The food was faultless: sticky sweet pork ribs with honey was a highlight, tender juicy meat with a crisp caramelised edge coated in sweet marinade. Red curry was great too, and it was fun choosing between the four rice varieties that accompany the dish. Sticky rice, mango and coconut ice-cream was made to perfection here also.

Sitting at the highest point of the resort listening to the lyrical local music and gorging on the divine delicacies was unforgettable. I commend Banyan Tree on their beautiful establishment.

More information and book to stay at Banyan Tree Samui here: www.banyantree.com/en/samui/

The Surin Hotel, Phuket

The Surin beach in Phuket is known for its pristine white sand and pale turquoise waters, a heavenly stretch of shoreline which the Surin Hotel can call its back garden! Ideally located on the west coast of the island and a member of the Design Hotels group, this accommodation is subtle and stylish, a blissfully tranquil place to enjoy an exotic holiday.

All of the 103 cottages and suites are discreetly situated amongst the lush green landscape, surrounded by coconut trees and vocal wildlife. With a renovation just three years ago, the décor feels fresh and contemporary. The property is removed from the major party areas in Phuket, though Catch Beach Club next door is popular. Guests can easily arrange excursions to nearby historic sites, we enjoyed visiting the local Chalong Bay distillery and Phuket old town.

At the end of a leafy road, the hotel feels very exclusive, a retreat to enjoy quiet luxury. We walked up and down a multitude of steps past swaying palm trees until we reached our little cabin. Despite modern touches the room is very traditionally Thai in design. Using warm brown and ochre shades, the interior has a comforting feel and encourages you to relax. The walls display ancient artefacts, fruit and snacks are prettily placed on the table and an array of magazines are ideal for beachside entertainment. The open plan room holds a plush sofa, small desk and a wonderfully soft big bed. Above the bed a triptych of oriental gold and brown artworks add artistic flair. Through to the wardrobe area, the Surin provides a full beach kit, straw sun hats, fans and convenient bag for towels. They have thought of everything you may need, so you can concentrate on your holiday. The bathroom is simply designed, with mirrored surfaces and nicely packaged toiletries, no bath but the powerful shower suffices for a refreshing spritz. Bathrobes are a fashionable pale grey and are a cooling thin cotton material.

For further indulgence guests can get a buggy to the petite Surin spa and really unwind with a vigorous tension relieving massage. Cool down with the delicious hibiscus flower iced welcome drink, choose from the selection of tropical flavoured oils, then lie down and let the experienced therapists melt your problems away.

When it comes to food at The Surin they follow the guest’s needs. For light lunches you can enjoy a bite by the beach while dinner can be enjoyed at the Beach Restaurant (though only open in high season) so we tried the fantastic Lomtalay Thai restaurant. Here they serve the finest traditional cuisine, every bite was exquisite. Using the highest quality ingredients each dish was fresh and vibrantly flavoured. I can particularly recommend the tender Lamb chops covered in spicy fragrant curry sauce and the moreish Morning glory in a light garlicky sauce.

At breakfast the hotel suddenly seems very full as guests gorge on the feast of food. A chef is cooking away at the egg station, whipping up fresh personalised dishes. Those who prefer a light breakfast can help themselves to tropical fruits and flaky buttery croissants.

When you have finished exploring the facilities, the sun drenched beach is waiting for you and it is this stunning view that will remain with you as a memory of the Surin long after you have left.

A double cottage at The Surin Phuket starts from £150 per room per night. For more information and reservations visit www.thesurinphuket.com  or call +66 76 621 580 2.