Monthly Archives: January 2015

Fera at Claridge’s, Mayfair

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Simon Rogan may not have received a star for his Manchester culinary triumph, The French, but his prestigious new London eatery, Fera, was awarded the accolade within weeks of opening. Housed in the iconic Claridges Hotel, it is surprisingly daring considering the traditional clientele who frequent this establishment.

Rogan first made an impact on the food scene with his 2 star restaurant L’Enclume in the Cumbrian village of Cartmel, an eatery that introduced us to the chef’s clever cuisine inspired by nature. The French is similar in style, offering innovative food presented in unusual ways.

Fera is latin for wild but, located within the beautifully redesigned art deco dining room at Claridge’s, it is quite the opposite: pristine and organised with a bare tree construction branching out in the centre of the room. In his food however Rogan tames the wild wonders of the garden and pairs the delicate and sometimes obscure flavours with meat and fish cooked to perfection.

I began with one of the delightful seasonal cocktails, it was a lovely shade of pink, a carefully combined mix of pear juice, fig-infused vodka, spiced wine and fennel seed spray. An ideal aperitif to sip whilst nibbling the amuse-bouche. In due course homemade warm malty bread arrived at the table with a dish of whipped caramelised butter.

The lunch menu for the day featured:

To start:

Smoked Bantam yolk, salt-baked kohlrabi, cavolo nero, Isle of Mull, truffle

Beetroot with fresh cheese, chicory brined in dill, pickled pear and horseradish

Main Course:

Reg’s guinea hen, salt-baked celeriac, buttered kale, cider sauce

Roasted plaice with purple sprouting, new potatoes, seaweed sauce

Dessert:

Chocolate cream, apple marigold, shortbread and rapeseed jam

Bramley apple cake, praline ice cream and chestnut

The dishes were beautifully arranged, plates of contrasting colours, textures and shapes, Rogan challenges the diner with unlikely flavour pairings. The Beetroot was a delectable treat, soft and sweet with vinegary and crunchy chicory and indulgent cheese. Smoked Bantam yolk shone marigold orange from the centre of the plate, strewn with greens and an almost tart milky sauce with a luxurious hint of truffle.

Desserts were conservative in size, and my Bramley apple cake tasted almost too healthy for a Michelin meal; light and refreshing with a sharp apple taste and creamy ice cream, shavings of chestnut on top. I thought the cake was most impressive, a dense but spongey texture packed full of flavour. I barely got to taste the chocolate dish, it was polished off pretty quickly, a dollop of silky chocolatey cream and vibrant citrus and biscuit crumbs, the perfect conclusion to the meal for sweet toothers.

A meal for two at Fera will cost you a hefty £300, but visit at lunchtime and you can taste Rogan’s revelatory cooking for just £30 a head. You will experience three courses, as imaginative as the a la carte but lighter and smaller, so you won’t feel weighed down all day. I can’t think of a better Michelin lunch deal in London.

More information and book a table at Fera here.

Things to do in Krakow

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Krakow is the most popular city to travel to in Poland. An historic destination dating back to the 7th century with beautiful buildings and a vibrant cultural scene, it makes for a lovely weekend break. During the day you can wander around the iconic Wawel Castle and try the Polish specialities in the vintage milk bars, then at night the bars come to life with music, smoke and cocktails as the hip residents enjoy their time off. Those interested in experiencing the grittier side to Poland’s history can venture out of town to Auschwitz, a chilling but significant day trip. For a family excursion visit the remarkable and magical Salt Mines deep underground. I only spent a day and a night in Krakow but it was enough to see a glimmer of this characterful city. Just two and half hours by train from Warsaw, it is easy to do both destinations in one trip.

To Sleep

Wentzl Hotel – one of the few hotels with a location on the old town market square, Wentzl has magnificent views overlooking Krakow. An historic hotel with modern amenities, the generous rooms have a grand feel decorated in deep reds and dark wood, with gold framed paintings hanging majestically on the walls. It is the perfect home for a weekend away.

To Eat

Ancora – this restaurant was recommended to me and it didn’t disappoint. A quiet stylish eatery down a side street in central Krakow, the kitchen specialises in creative local and international dishes. We tried some of the Polish tapas and delicious meat dishes for main course.

Charlotte – Perhaps the best breakfast in Krakow… this chic café has a lovely communal dining table and serves top pastries and hot dishes, fresh juice and great coffee.

Pod Temida – you must go to a retro milk bar while in Poland and Pod Temida is one of the best still in existence. These cheap and basic canteen-like eateries are making a comeback, and are a great place to try traditional Polish food. I recommend trying the meat or cheese pierogi (dumplings) here.

To Drink

Coffee Cargo – you can almost smell the roasting beans from the street. The coffee cargo crew expertly roast and brew the best coffee in Krakow all served from a warehouse on the outskirts of town. We sampled a smooth and sweet drip coffee from Ethopia.

Wesola – the coffee scene in Poland is really thriving and this little cafe has a great vibe and make a mean flat white. Located behind the main train station I got a cup to go before jumping on the train back to Warsaw.

Nowa Prowincja – allegedly the best hot chocolate in Krakow and certainly the finest we tried, this cosy little venue serves up a sweet thick drink that will warm you on even the coldest winter days.

Alchemia – this popular local hang-out has it all, great food, cheap drinks, live music and a buzzy atmosphere. Weave your way through the crowds to the downstairs gig room where we heard a great 14-piece brass band from France whilst sipping Polish beer. Apparently they do a great brunch menu too.

Le Scandale – it may look a little uninteresting inside but take a seat at the back bar and the friendly bartenders will whip up a delicious cocktail.

To See

Wawel Castle and Cathedral – this gothic castle was originally built in the 14th century and was mostly rebuilt in the 16th century after a devastating fire. Found at the top of a hill along with the impressive cathedral, it is the main tourist attraction in the city centre today.

Rynek Underground – opened in 2010 after an excavation under the main market square, this high-tech underground museum of tunnels walks you through Krakow’s history from 2000 BC to present day.

Out of Town

Auschwitz – a still and silent place filled with the sorrow of its horrific past. Auschwitz and nearby Birkenau were the main Nazi concentration camps and are now a museum and memorial. Here you will learn the details of the barbaric mass killing and walk around the camp buildings. An informative film shows footage of the rescued prisoners and the awful conditions they were made to live in.

Wieliczka Salt Mine – just outside Krakow this UNesco World Heritage site receives thousands of visitors every day. It was mined for 900 years and was once one of the world’s most profitable establishments, when salt was very valuable. The 2km tourist route takes a trail through the passages, caverns, lakes and chapels to 135 metres below the earths surface. In summer months the salt mine lakes are used as a healing spa.

Honey & Co, Warren Street

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I am always on the lookout for exciting breakfast venues in London. Honey & Co is the first solo venture from husband and wife team Itamar Srulovich and Sarit Packer. Both trained as chefs and have gained experience and inspiration working in kitchens around the world.

The little cafe on Warren Street offers Middle Eastern delicacies that evoke memories from the couple’s childhoods. It is the food they grew up with, whether recipes learnt from their mothers or the street food they adored as children. Honey & Co is conceived as an extension of their home, a comforting place to feast on food, chat with friends and relax.

It is a far cry from the croissants and fry-ups available at other breakfast hang-outs. Here you will find Ljje (herb, feta and buttered leek frittata), Roasted pepper and muhamra lahma, Merguese sausage roll with spicy tomato and harissa as just a few of the morning specialities. At the weekends diners can feast on Poached legbar eggs on spinach and yoghurt or Turkish smoked urfa chilli butter and potato bread soldiers, which has become a favourite with regulars. It is all delicious, carefully seasoned and using the best ingredients. Alongside the food, Honey & Co offers the sweetest freshly squeezed orange juice and good coffee.

Honey & Co has produced a vibrant cookbook with tempting recipes and alluring photography. It brings some Middle Eastern exoticism to my kitchen and reminds me of the delicious breakfasts I have enjoyed in the characterful café.

More information here: honeyandco.co.uk