Switzerland has one of the highest concentrations of Michelin-starred restaurants in Europe, and the country’s largest city Zurich is the best place to try this fine food. As one of the world’s most prominent financial cities, Zurich unsurprisingly offers a sophisticated and elegant culinary culture with an abundance of upmarket eateries, both Swiss and international. Last year Baur au Lac Hotel’s premier restaurant, Pavillon was deservedly given a Michelin star, a very prestigious award for Head Chef Laurent Eperon and his team.
The staff stood to attention as we walked into the palatial Pavillon dining room. Following their pre-match brief, they looked excited and enthusiastic about an evening’s work and their genuine smiles showed a true sense of pride for this restaurant. A unique rotunda room dominates, designed by famous architect Pierre Yves Rochon. The room glows with natural light thanks to the 360 degree glazing, and above your head Art Deco Lalique chandeliers sparkle.
After a glass of Philipponnat Champagne, we were presented with plates of intricate miniatures with “greetings from the chef”. Scallops in tempura with mango chilli chutney was a light and sweet start, followed soon after with a tiny pot of vibrant green pea soup with a large soft ricotta and lemon filled ravioli. Each was just a mouthful, but flavoured intensely.
The menu is filled with intriguing and innovative dishes showcasing a fresh and contemporary haute cuisine. Of the starters, Ratatouille Pop Art is an exceptional dish, a beautifully deconstructed illustration on the plate, selecting key Mediterranean flavours and textures to make a delicious and satisfying creation. Those on a health kick will enjoy the Green asparagus tips with Manuka honey vinaigrette, lemon and vanilla; a sweet and healthy start to the meal, using the best seasonal produce available. Greedy and desperate to try many of the options, I persuaded the kitchen to kindly prepare a taster of the divine pasta dish, Gyoza tortellini filled with Swiss chard, Noir de Bigorre raw ham and ricotta with Beaufort cheese veloute. Despite appearing airy and pale, this Asian inspired dish was rich and addictive, with a soft cheesy centre and a crisp edge.
As each course was placed on the table glasses of wisely chosen wine were offered to match the food. Our favourite was without a doubt the Grüner Veltliner, Schloss Gobelsburg Kamptal Austria 2012, an unusual and very drinkable wine with a slightly peppery and woody taste combined with a hint of pear and citrus sweetness; it was balanced and refreshing and I imagine would complement many dishes. We also tried a lovely Swiss Chardonnay, Guido Brivio, Tessin Switzerland 2012, also excellent.
For main we indulged in a Pavillon speciality, the Glazed veal knuckle for two with gravy refined with wild black pepper from Madagascar and Agria potato puree. It was exquisite. Brought first to the table as an impressive hunk of meat on the bone, glistening from the oven heat, I wondered how we would conquer it! Returning minutes later neatly sliced in a bowl of fragrant rich gravy, the meat fell apart as my fork pierced it, and melted in the mouth. Deep and fully flavoured with the pepper, the gravy was exemplary and combined happily with the creamy, smooth pureed potato. Veal is the traditional Swiss meat and this dish pays homage to the country beyond words.
We shared a range of desserts showcasing the pastry chef’s skills. My favourite was the Strawberry Pop Art, a light and fruity dish with strawberry jelly, crumble and cream cheese ice cream. It was a lovely contrast of crunch and cream, presented in a sculptural fashion. Pavillon’s take on Tiramisu is also worth trying, a spectacular presentation with a tube of coffee creaminess and cold aniseed flavoured ice-cream, certainly not an ordinary dessert.
Both hotel guests and visitors adore Pavillon restaurant, it was the culinary highlight of my weekend in Zurich with food that wowed. Put a meal at Pavillon at the top of your Zurich to do list.
More information and book here: www.aupavillon.ch/en
Book a stay at Baur au Lac here: www.bauraulac.ch , read my review of the hotel here.
Many thanks to the Swiss Tourist Office for their help with this trip, more information here.