Vun restaurant, Milan

Hotel restaurants can often get away with being rather mediocre, serving overpriced and uninteresting food and yet filling the dining room every night. However once in a while you come across a hotel restaurant really worth seeking out, whether you’re staying in the accommodation or not. The Park Hyatt in Milan is an example of this, a beautiful hotel in the heart of the city with a truly special Michelin-starred restaurant onsite. Just steps away from the magnificent Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II and close to the Duomo, this is one of the best located luxury hotels in Milan.

The very approachable A5 sized English menu is clear and easy to navigate, which can be a real blessing for non-linguists. Vun offers you a choice of two dishes and dessert with coffee for a reasonable €52, or dishes can be ordered individually, as you wish. The staff were very accommodating of our request to share our meat course and helped us decide, pointing out the chef’s most spectacular recipes.

After toasting our arrival in Milan with a glass of Prosecco, we began our meal of reinvented Italian classics. We tried a selection from the main menu and can now recommend with confidence the four top dishes you must try.

To start, the most ethereal, spherical and peculiar caprese salad I have ever seen. Less of a salad, more of a sculptural work of art. It is almost too magical to touch or eat. A contrast of sweet and salty components, the main feature is a startlingly bright white ball: thick mozzarella foam encased in a fragile outer shell. Once broken the gooey cheesey interior contrasted well with the bed of sweet tomato.

I always find it a challenge choosing from an array of tempting pasta dishes but I’d heard that the “Fettucia” was unmissable. I have to agree. The thick strands of homemade pasta from Gragnano is cooked in a simple creamy sauce made with egg yolk and aged Parmesan cheese, flavoured with the distinctive and refined taste of summer truffles. It looked as spectacular as it tasted, topped with fine truffle shavings.

For main course we opted for Black Pork with cherries, smoked eggplant and cocoa Crüe. It was a rich and romantic dish, an intensely flavoured cherry-infused piece of meat. The smoked eggplant and cocoa added depth and balanced out the caramelised meat. It was an unusual range of flavours which I was initially sceptical about, but it worked miraculously well.

For dessert we chose two to share, our favourite was the light and succulent Peaches with white chocolate, Evo and Jasmine tea. Carefully arranged on a huge plate, there were so many different elements to admire. Peach and white chocolate is a popular pairing and here, with a hint of Jasmine tea, the flavours were wonderful. We easily polished it off, the finale of our four course feast.

Vun is proof that you don’t have to travel far for a fine meal in Milan – it is an asset to the hotel, a real bonus for guests staying here.

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