Things to do in Lisbon

Lisbon is an enchanting mix of old and new, sun and sea, ups and downs. Navigate your way round the hills and you will find traditional neighbourhoods, breathtaking views, cute cafes and boutiques, all within walking distance. When your feet do begin to ache the modes of transport are numerous: trains, trams, taxis and modern tuk-tuks! Aside from the typical tourist attractions, this capital has plenty of other ideas to explore, out of the ordinary, bizarre little places were my favourite discoveries of the weekend.

To eat
Belcanto: Jose Avillez is integrated completely in Lisbon life spreading his culinary expertise and creative ideas in shops, cafes and restaurants. His very own Belcanto is rightly awarded a Michelin star and I was utterly astounded by the beautiful precision and impressive flavourful creations.
The Decadente: almost impossible to get a table but well worth booking if you can. All the food is great but most rave about the chocolate trio dessert, simple but brilliantly tasty.
Casanova Pizza
: a hip pizza joint by the waterfront. Sit inside at the shared tables and switch on your floating lightbulb for service. The pizzas are insanely good with crispy crust, plenty of cheese and numerous topping options.

To snack
Pasteis de Belem: it is considered a sin to walk past this café without popping in for a Pasteis (custard tart). Sweet, warm, gooey and delicious, they are the very best Lisbon has to offer.
Santini: always expect queues at this wonderful Italian ice-cream shop. The recipe is top secret and undeniably delicious, try strawberry and coconut combination.
Pizza a Pezzi: A new way to eat pizza on the go, choose a piece, it will be weighed and costed accordingly, pay and you’re ready to go. Yum.

To drink
Cinco Lounge: Lisbon has definitely not caught on to the cocktail trend yet. But those in favour of a fruity concoction will be pleased to discover Cinco, which offers a menu of over 100 carefully designed recipes. We tried the Milly Vanilly (obviously)!
Kaffeehaus: a cool hang-out for coffee lovers and those needing a snack as a break from shopping in Chiado.

To see
Museu Calouste Gulbenkian: contains a collection of amazing ancient and modern art.
Museu-Escola de Artes Decorativas: a quaint collection of Portuguese artifacts and furniture.
Hospital de Bonecas: opened in 1930 this eerily spectacular array of dolls and broken toys. Unlike anything I have ever seen before, this longstanding building restores damaged dolls back to their former glory and offer visitors a chance to view the workshop.
Belem church: An epic building, overlooking the city. Stunning interiors and free entry.

To do
Oceanario: Europe’s largest aquarium is a must see when in Lisbon. Showcasing each of the oceans it houses a huge variety of exotic and exciting sealife, we particularly loved seeing the otters and penguins.
Feira da Ladra: locals love the flea market which is held every Tuesday and Saturday near tram stop Campo da Sta. Clara. We wandered up and had great fun checking out the second hand selections.
Santa Justa: travel up one of the city’s best-loved landmarks,also known as the “Elevator of Carmo,” this extraordinary structure was built at the turn of the century by the Portugal-born French architect Raoul de Mesnier du Ponsard (an apprentice of Gustave Eiffel). The top of the Neo-Gothic tower, reached via a spiral staircase, has a cafe with splendid views of the city, Rossio Square, the castle and the river.

To stay
Four Seasons Ritz: historic, beautiful and luxurious, this five star hotel cannot be beaten for its superior service and wonderful rooms. Check out the fabulous spa and rooftop running track.
The Independente: the trendiest hostel and suites accommodation in the city. This funky venue also offers a groovy bar and restaurant for guests and visitors. Cheap and cool.

To shop
Lisbon Lovers: stylish merchandise for tourists.
21PR: an expansive concept store on the Rua Dom Pedro. Colourful treats come in all varieties: jewellery, chocolates, clothes and other lovely bits and bobs to tempt you to part with your pennies.
Cyan: a small jewellery workshop in the midst of the flea market, founder Maria will pick out a handmade piece to suit your character. I left with a precious engraved silver ring, that she sold me despite wearing it herself.
SkinLife: simply put, Skinlife is the Portuguese version of SpaceNK… a collection of high end boutique make-up and fragrance brands housed under one roof. Rose wine is served to clients instore.
Nails’4’us: the top nail salon in Lisbon, experts in gel manicures with a colourful range of nail essentials.
Queijaria Nacional: a top foodie store to buy wonderful cheeses and meats.
Lavaria Ulisses: this glove shop was founded in 1925 by Joaquim Rodrigues Simões, an entrepreneur with a profound understanding of the habits of the people of Lisbon. This tiny little original shop is adorable and the lovely man behind the counter will inspect your hand for a second before returning with a box of suitable options. I chose bright pink, snug fitting leather gloves, a very special reminder of my Lisbon weekend.

If you have the luxury of more time, I’d recommend a trip to the nearby seaside town Cascais where you will find free bike hire perfect for trails along the coast.

Benares 10th Anniversary Meal

To celebrate the tenth anniversary of his restaurant, chef Atul Kochkar invited a group of London’s most ravenous foodie bloggers to taste his recent menu at Benares.

We met in the bar, exchanged business cards and slurped down a spicy passionfruit and chilli martini. Taking our seats at the prestigious chef’s table, we chatted about our recent culinary experiences whilst admiring the busy kitchen staff frying, tossing, plating and garnishing with great precision and speed.

A delightful personalised tasting menu awaited our palates, and while the food arrived a knowledgeable sommelier offered glasses of carefully paired wine.

To titillate initially a tiny chicken tikka cone… it was a little odd eating pureed chicken but no-one could deny the wonderfully aromatic taste. Fennel-infused lamb chop was rich and flavoursome, presented with a majestic mustard-marinated king prawn; pan-roasted wild sea bass with vermicelli, coconut and curry leaf sauce was a light and fragrant next course. Roasted rump of cornish lamb with shoulder samosa, potato and broad beans was a delicious mix of British ingredients, Indian spices and innovative Atul Kochkar creativity.

Wines were selected from all over the world to ensure the body and flavour perfectly suited the food.

Just before dessert we had a mouthful of lime sorbet, a moment to pause and reflect before the final sweet course. Rose and raspberry Bhapa Doi with pistachio Burfi was a creamy fruity pudding, a wonderful mix of ingredients which soothed my palate after all the rich spicy savoury food.

Atul never ceases to amaze me with his inspirational Indian cooking, and ten years after opening, Benares is better than ever. In a country where this exotic cuisine is so popular, Atul provides food of the very highest calibre.

More info here: www.benaresrestaurant.com

Read about my first trip to Benares here.

You can also read about my trip to Atul Kochkar’s other restaurant, Indian Essence.

Alain Ducasse at The Dorchester, Park Lane

If you are a foodie living in London you will definitely know about Alain Ducasse’s 3* eatery at the Dorchester. This legendary French chef is a magician in the kitchen and renowned the world over. Unlike his competitors Gordon Ramsay and Heston Blumenthal, he avoids drama and his reputation remains unchallenged.

Ducasse does not obsess about molecular gastronomy and science, instead his culinary creations are based on classic recipes, traditional techniques and the highest-quality seasonal produce.

I have eaten in several of his restaurants now, perhaps most memorably the charming brasserie, Benoit in Paris. Although his restaurant at the Dorchester is rather more refined, the mood and ambience is similarly unassuming. Remembering some embarrassingly pretentious Michelin dining experiences, it is amazing that this prestigious central London restaurant manages to ensure all guests feel at ease, whether they are wearing their poshest attire or not.

There were various amuse-bouches, but it was nice not to be bombarded with too many extra treats. The most delicious were the tiny salt-and-pepper cheese puff balls made with the lightest choux pastry imaginable.

I think I made an error in the starter I chose. The waiter assured me that raw and cooked vegetables are a firm seasonal speciality on the menu and that sold the dish to me. It looked astoundingly beautiful and the flavours were wonderful, but all in all it wasn’t a dish to die for and this what I have come to expect from restaurants with the ultimate three Michelin star recognition. In contrast, the Saute gourmand of lobster, truffled chicken quenelles and homemade pasta was satisfyingly supreme and my guest was mockingly delighted that he had chosen so well.

Both the lamb and the pigeon main courses were delicious, presented immaculately, with fresh simply cooked vegetables and dressed with spectacular sauces. Intrigued about the cheese on offer, we ordered a plate to share but found it to be wholly disappointing. At this Dorchester restaurant, we were not invited to choose our cheese but rather presented with a plate of one they’d prepared in the kitchen, so we didn’t get to select our favourite fromages.

Desserts were simple and classic, executed to perfection. There was nothing fussy about these puddings, the emphasis obviously on taste. Politely declining a tea infusion from the trolley of intriguing looking shrubs, we completed our Alain Ducasse experience with the ultimate French fancies; macaroons and praline chocolates.

Will this man ever cease to amaze? Although the Dorchester is London’s most famous hotel, their chosen chef comes from across the channel.

More information and see the menus here.