Things to do in Monaco

Known as a playground for the rich and famous, most residents of Monaco own a jumbo yacht, a private jet or a top of the range automobile to employ flamboyantly in and around town. Surrounded by France and just a 15-minute train journey from Nice, it is easy and quick to reach, and at just two square kilometres in size, Monaco is a very manageable weekend destination. With its own royal family, a hospital, an Olympic sized stadium and a cathedral, it constitutes a self-sufficient principality of France. As a 36-hour addition to my Provencal summer holiday, I had just enough time to experience some of the best that Monaco has to offer.

To stay
Le Meridien Beach Plaza: we arrived as the final members from UEFA were departing; the hotel had hosted guests for the Champions League draw just a couple of days before. This 4-star hotel has a unique location, overlooking the Mediterranean, it is the only Monaco hotel with its own private beach. The suites are spacious and airy; we had a huge (and very comfortable) king-size bed and a lovely little balcony. A big breakfast buffet is served downstairs on the patio, and you can then spend the day soaking up the sun on the beach, or take the concierge’s tips and see the city’s popular sites.

To eat
Odyssey at Hotel Metropole: Odyssey is the third Joel Robuchon eatery at the swish Metropole Hotel. As a casual option for guests wishing to enjoy a light bite, it is in contrast to the two smart, Michelin-starred fine dining options within the hotel. Odyssey is the creation of two French masters, King of Chanel Karl Lagerfeld and Chef extraordinaire Joel Robuchon. Karl, who designed the dazzling pool and restaurant, came to see it for the first time on the night we dined there, and Joel also popped in to say hi! The cocktails are impressively ornate and very strong, exotically flavoured with spices and herbs. From the menu of tapas style dishes, the marinated lamb chops and crispy battered courgette flowers are my top recommendations.

Maya Bay: a lovely, reasonably priced lunch venue, this restaurant is divided in two with separate Thai and Japanese sections. The ideal exotic dining options for Meridien hotel guests.

Le Louis XV: Monaco’s most prestigious restaurant can be found at the resplendent Hotel de Paris. With 3 Michelin stars and a crowd of tourists outside proving its status… this Alain Ducasse restaurant is unbeatable.

To see
Monaco Cathedral: It seems impossible that a cathedral so big should exist in a place so small. Built with stark white stone from La Turbie in 1875, this Roman-Byzantine-style building houses the burial places of past sovereigns, including Prince Rainier.

Prince’s Palace of Monaco: Every day at 11.55 am, without fail, the changing of the guard takes place outside the palace. Walk up the steep steps and catch a spectacular glimpse of Monaco. As the official residence of the Prince of Monaco there are many beautiful and luxurious artefacts to see if you do venture inside.

To do
Stade Louis II Tour: Visit the impressive stadium complex and take a tour with a knowledgeable guide to learn about sport in Monaco. See the pool where Prince Albert met his wife, the changing rooms where the multimillion-pound superstar footballers prepare before a game, and the pitch where the matches take place.

Oceanographic Museum: this exotic aquarium and museum is housed in a surprisingly grand old building. After admiring the multicoloured fish and other sea creatures, you can stroke baby sharks and starfish in the unique touch pool.

To be seen at
Casino {of Monte Carlo}: Prepare to be amazed, this is where millionaires bet the big bucks. A must see, it is definitely worth spending 10 euros to feel part of this famous Monaco institution.

Jimmyz: Part of the popular Sporting Club, Jimmyz has a reputation for attracting all the stars and celebs. To join them – pay the (extortionate) entrance fee, drink champagne and dance until the sun comes up… in true Monaco style.

Many thanks to the Monaco Tourist Board, Visit Monaco, who organised the trip. More information here.

www.visitmonaco.com/en

Alain Ducasse at The Dorchester, Park Lane

If you are a foodie living in London you will definitely know about Alain Ducasse’s 3* eatery at the Dorchester. This legendary French chef is a magician in the kitchen and renowned the world over. Unlike his competitors Gordon Ramsay and Heston Blumenthal, he avoids drama and his reputation remains unchallenged.

Ducasse does not obsess about molecular gastronomy and science, instead his culinary creations are based on classic recipes, traditional techniques and the highest-quality seasonal produce.

I have eaten in several of his restaurants now, perhaps most memorably the charming brasserie, Benoit in Paris. Although his restaurant at the Dorchester is rather more refined, the mood and ambience is similarly unassuming. Remembering some embarrassingly pretentious Michelin dining experiences, it is amazing that this prestigious central London restaurant manages to ensure all guests feel at ease, whether they are wearing their poshest attire or not.

There were various amuse-bouches, but it was nice not to be bombarded with too many extra treats. The most delicious were the tiny salt-and-pepper cheese puff balls made with the lightest choux pastry imaginable.

I think I made an error in the starter I chose. The waiter assured me that raw and cooked vegetables are a firm seasonal speciality on the menu and that sold the dish to me. It looked astoundingly beautiful and the flavours were wonderful, but all in all it wasn’t a dish to die for and this what I have come to expect from restaurants with the ultimate three Michelin star recognition. In contrast, the Saute gourmand of lobster, truffled chicken quenelles and homemade pasta was satisfyingly supreme and my guest was mockingly delighted that he had chosen so well.

Both the lamb and the pigeon main courses were delicious, presented immaculately, with fresh simply cooked vegetables and dressed with spectacular sauces. Intrigued about the cheese on offer, we ordered a plate to share but found it to be wholly disappointing. At this Dorchester restaurant, we were not invited to choose our cheese but rather presented with a plate of one they’d prepared in the kitchen, so we didn’t get to select our favourite fromages.

Desserts were simple and classic, executed to perfection. There was nothing fussy about these puddings, the emphasis obviously on taste. Politely declining a tea infusion from the trolley of intriguing looking shrubs, we completed our Alain Ducasse experience with the ultimate French fancies; macaroons and praline chocolates.

Will this man ever cease to amaze? Although the Dorchester is London’s most famous hotel, their chosen chef comes from across the channel.

More information and see the menus here.

Benoit, Paris

Alain Ducasse is known for his prestigious fine cuisine, what I experienced at Benoit was not as posh but just as delicious. This restaurant is one of the few  remaining true Parisian bistros; warm and friendly with a welcoming atmosphere, it was the perfect place for the last meal of our weekend in Paris, but made me regret leaving the city even more.

There is something very special about eating in a traditional French bistro, a genuinely lovely ambience and a passion for food. Like many of his other eateries, Benoit has been awarded a Michelin star (the only brasserie with a star in Paris) – it is an accolade which many Paris restaurants can boast, but no other chef has achieved 3 stars on both sides of the Channel proving that the venerable Alain Ducasse is certainly one of a kind.

It is easy to spot the red Benoit restaurant sign from the street. On the corner of Rue Saint-Martin, the place has a glazed buttery glow; a foodie haven. Inside the tables are limited, the decor charming – white draped tables, mirrored walls and gold newspaper holders. The menu predominantly features rustic, typically French dishes: think snails and sweetbreads.

The head waiter was charismatic but professional… clearing a preferential table for us and immediately offering us white or pink champagne. When I picked pink bubbly he brought both, protesting that both were equally special, so we must try both! Flicking through the lovely Benoit cookbook helped us select our meal.

To start:
Snails with garlic butter and herbs
Sausage and pistachio brioche roll with baby lamb’s lettuce salad

For main:
Cassoulet
Fillet of Beef with macaroni cheese

To finish:
Benoit profiteroles
Tarte Tatin with fresh cream

This was the backbone of the lunch, alongside which we were given extra ornaments, appetisers and treats to whet our appetites and satisfy our senses. Everything was delicious, prepared using the highest quality ingredients and the most precise methods of cooking. Foie gras on toast, fresh crusty bread with an incredible slice of salted butter and tasters of terrine were first brought.

The starters could be smelt all the way from the kitchen. Dangerously buttery and garlicky snails, presented wonderfully on the special platter. It was the first time either of us had tried these little creatures, I was a little sceptical of the rubbery texture, but the garnish was undeniably tasty. The brioche encased sausage was very good, a simple dish which suited me well, complemented by the lovely crunchy salad.

The fillet of beef was full of flavour and incredibly tender, dressed with a sweet, rich onion gravy. The macaroni didn’t last long, painfully indulgent but irresistibly scrumptious, definitely the best we have ever tasted. Cassoulet is a peasant dish, a hot pot of different meats and beans. It was flavoursome and wholesome, though needed a touch more seasoning for my liking. Very filling but with little fat it is an easy recipe to cook for a group of friends.

Sommelier Pierre Charles Gandilhon selected exquisite wine to match the food, white to start and red to follow. It goes without saying that most good French restaurants have a brilliant wine list, but these were particularly well paired to bring out the flavours of our food, without being overpowering.

From the choice of French patisseries, we sampled the signature profiteroles and classic tarte tatin. The generous portions were initially alarming but we managed to make our way through, and even taste the final coffee chocolate pudding. Made with care and attention the sweets were faultless.

No meal is complete without a fresh-out-the-oven madeleine, and as we were getting up to leave our waiter brought a tray round, smelling of sweet vanilla. We left with Alain’s Benoit cookbook and a bag of petits fours in our hands, as our waiter waved goodbye.

Benoit evokes a flavour of France and all the things it represents. Our lunch here was truly unforgettable and the recipe book will forever remain with me as a souvenir of this perfect Parisian lunch.

More information here.

http://www.benoit-paris.com/

Thanks to the Paris Tourist Board, more information here.