Alain Ducasse at The Dorchester, Park Lane

If you are a foodie living in London you will definitely know about Alain Ducasse’s 3* eatery at the Dorchester. This legendary French chef is a magician in the kitchen and renowned the world over. Unlike his competitors Gordon Ramsay and Heston Blumenthal, he avoids drama and his reputation remains unchallenged.

Ducasse does not obsess about molecular gastronomy and science, instead his culinary creations are based on classic recipes, traditional techniques and the highest-quality seasonal produce.

I have eaten in several of his restaurants now, perhaps most memorably the charming brasserie, Benoit in Paris. Although his restaurant at the Dorchester is rather more refined, the mood and ambience is similarly unassuming. Remembering some embarrassingly pretentious Michelin dining experiences, it is amazing that this prestigious central London restaurant manages to ensure all guests feel at ease, whether they are wearing their poshest attire or not.

There were various amuse-bouches, but it was nice not to be bombarded with too many extra treats. The most delicious were the tiny salt-and-pepper cheese puff balls made with the lightest choux pastry imaginable.

I think I made an error in the starter I chose. The waiter assured me that raw and cooked vegetables are a firm seasonal speciality on the menu and that sold the dish to me. It looked astoundingly beautiful and the flavours were wonderful, but all in all it wasn’t a dish to die for and this what I have come to expect from restaurants with the ultimate three Michelin star recognition. In contrast, the Saute gourmand of lobster, truffled chicken quenelles and homemade pasta was satisfyingly supreme and my guest was mockingly delighted that he had chosen so well.

Both the lamb and the pigeon main courses were delicious, presented immaculately, with fresh simply cooked vegetables and dressed with spectacular sauces. Intrigued about the cheese on offer, we ordered a plate to share but found it to be wholly disappointing. At this Dorchester restaurant, we were not invited to choose our cheese but rather presented with a plate of one they’d prepared in the kitchen, so we didn’t get to select our favourite fromages.

Desserts were simple and classic, executed to perfection. There was nothing fussy about these puddings, the emphasis obviously on taste. Politely declining a tea infusion from the trolley of intriguing looking shrubs, we completed our Alain Ducasse experience with the ultimate French fancies; macaroons and praline chocolates.

Will this man ever cease to amaze? Although the Dorchester is London’s most famous hotel, their chosen chef comes from across the channel.

More information and see the menus here.

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