Belcanto, Lisbon

“By nature we are nonconformists. Every day we hope to learn and find answers to the questions that crop up and allow us to develop and move forward” – Jose Avillez.

The resounding success of Belcanto is testament to Lisbon’s favourite chef. Jose Avillez is a phenomenon and provides the Portuguese capital with unforgettable culinary delights.

This once classic gentleman’s club in Lisbon’s Chaido district has been transformed by Jose into a wonderful emporium of molecular gastronomy. Discreet and modest, we struggled to even find the entrance, but once inside we were seduced by the creative décor, the relaxed atmosphere and the welcoming staff. So often gourmet restaurants compromise on character in order to let the food have free reign, Belcanto offers both in harmony – it is the very best kind of fine dining.

Before the main meal commenced we were treated to a seemingly never-ending assortment of taster treats. A perfectly spherical frozen, non-alcoholic caipirinha ball served on a bed of crushed ice, a trio of olive inventions and a goldleaf coated nutty chickpea truffle. Crazy but great fun to try.

Every dish is a work of art. Jose keeps you guessing, presenting each of his eccentric dishes in a completely unique and unexpected style. One such dish was the magnificent Wave Breaking, a collection of seafood served in a specially designed and fabricated pottery plate, showing true imagination and innovation. This was a beautiful dish in every sense. The Hare with white beans was less extraordinary but still tasted delicious.

The mains were exquisite: Suckling pig revisited with fried potatoes, orange and salad; and Belcanto’s own-style steak with inimitable triple-cooked chips. Both meats were cooked to our exact specifications and served with indulgent sauces. The fat on the pork was so thin and crispy that no part needed to be left, even for fussy eaters like me. The vibrant citrus puree was an unexpected contrast and one that took a little getting used to. By far the most exciting part of this dish was the side portion of fried potatoes, presented in edible paper packaging and hung on a wire line – I’d never seen anything like it.

It was tricky to select just two desserts off the menu so our waiter advised us on his favourites. Mandarin, as it was simply named, was a study around this summery fruit. It was the most incredible glowing orange ball of sorbet. Refreshing and palate cleansing, it was great after the big meal. The Chocolate and hazelnut pudding was rather more rich and indulgent – a chaotic pile of chocolate and nut components.

Exemplary Portuguese wine was picked out for us at every stage of the meal.

Jose is a local celebrity and in my eyes a total hero. Our meal at Belcanto was exceptional and the highlight of our trip to Lisbon.

More information here.

http://www.joseavillez.pt/#/en/belcanto

An Edinburgh Itinerary

The best thing about my brother’s Edinburgh University education is the excuse it gives me for four years of visiting rights to Scotland’s picturesque capital city. Rivalling London with its impressive selection of fine dining, cool bars and attractive historical sights, it is the ideal place for a weekend break in Britain.

9 am: after a heavenly buffet breakfast at the Caledonian Hotel pack your map and umbrella and set out for Princes Street, Edinburgh’s busiest shopping road.

10 am: Wander through the boutiques until you reach Artisan Roast for the perfect cup of coffee. But a note to Potter geeks; the cafe keenly states that ‘JK Rowling did not write here!’

10.30 am: If you dare, the dungeons are worth a visit. Catch one of the live shows for spooky stories and amusing anecdotes about Scotland’s murky past.

12.30 pm: Head to the Leith area for lunch by the waterside. Edinburgh boasts five Michelin starred eateries, The Kitchin is perhaps the healthiest, offering beautifully presented, seasonally inspired recipes. The lunch menu is very reasonable with three courses priced at £26 per person.

2 pm: Jump on the 22 bus back into town for an afternoon of sightseeing. The National Museum of Scotland is currently displaying an awesome Viking exhibition, but their permanent collection is enough to lure you in all year round.

3 pm: Potter around Grassmarket and exchange a tea and cake break with a trip to Oink! the thrifty but thoroughly Scottish snack of hog roast and haggis. Pop into the most popular vintage shop, Armstrong’s for a look through their racks of hand-me-downs.

4 pm: Trek up through the Royal Mile, past the bagpipers, to the renowned Edinburgh Castle… step back in time in this amazing medieval building which overlooks the entire city. Students avoid the place at all costs, adhering to the superstitious rumour that they will fail their finals if they step over the Castle threshold. Then just moments away is the Camera Obscura and World of Illusions, a mesmerising interactive exhibition; we especially loved the dizzying vortex tunnel.

7 pm: For cocktails the Last Word Saloon is the only place to go. Choose the deliciously well balanced John Candy concoction or pick their masterful rendition of the famous gin drink the bar is named after.

8.30 pm: There is no need to look further than the Caledonian Hotel for supper. With the talented Galvin brothers at the helm, you have the choice to dine at the smart Pompadour Restaurant or the more casual Brasserie de Luxe. We couldn’t fault the Parisian style dishes and the immaculate service. When tiredness sets in drift upstairs to bed.

For massive savings and minimal stress buy the Edinburgh Pass… undoubtedly the most efficient way to see all the city’s delights!

For more information see the Edinburgh tourist board website here.

Thoroughly Modern Milly travelled with East Coast Trains. East Coast operates regular services each weekday between London King’s Cross and Edinburgh. Customers travelling First Class can enjoy East Coast’s complimentary food and drinks offer plus unlimited Wi-Fi. Book advanced return fares online at www.eastcoast.co.uk. Times and fares can also be found via 08457 225225 or from any staffed stations.

Chez Bruce, Wandsworth

Of all the London Michelin star restaurants I have visited, Chez Bruce wins my favourite. Both meals I have experienced here have been the perfect balance between fine cuisine and deliciously tasty food. Bruce proves that Michelin meals don’t have to be pretentious and overly experimental to win prizes. Located just a short walk from Wandsworth Common train station, the venue is less challenging to find than many may think and is only a brief journey from Victoria. The nearby green is perfect for an after lunch stroll.

Chez Bruce is part of a trio of wonderful London restaurants, which includes La Trompette in Chiswick and The Glasshouse in Kew. La Trompette is also a favourite of mine, and I have heard very good things about The Glasshouse. All three pride themselves on providing honest, exceptional food, prepared immaculately with a strong French influence.

A small and unassuming dining room is the home of Chez Bruce, it feels like you are eating in a cosy sitting room with simple design and comforting decor. The clientele seems to range enormously from young food enthusiasts to older knowledgeable restaurant regulars. It is clear immediately that every food lover is welcome here, and it emanates a lovely relaxed atmosphere.

The wine list is affordable and varied with something for every palate. Unexperienced and impressionable in this department, both times we have opted for simple fresh white and the champagne… and have found them to be delicious and very drinkable. Before the three courses begin, guests are treated to parmesan shortbread biscuits and ultra soft rosemary focaccia bread, they are both so good I would come to the restaurant just for these!

After two visits we have tried far too much incredible food to list here but a few favourites stand out. Salad of pork belly with jerusalem artichokes, salsa verde, chorizo, watercress and crackling was a beautifully constructed dish made from carefully selected ingredients, the meats and vegetables matched perfectly to create an addictively good starter. Tagliatelle of chanterelles with salsify, thyme and parmesan was another miraculously tasty dish, startlingly simple but just so good with homemade pasta and the creamiest, lightest sauce you can imagine.

For mains we have sampled amazing Venison loin with shoulder vol au vent, spiced carrot puree and sauce poivade which was a glorious wintery meaty recipe. Roast phesant with bacon and onion dumpling, brussel sprouts, chestnuts and sage was a brilliant version of the familiar festive meal, with every component beautifully cooked and seasoned.

The desserts at Chez Bruce are simple and stylish. Classics include an exquisite creme brulee, and more unusual ideas include a refreshing Yorkshire rhubarb and vanilla cheesecake with mandarin sorbet and orange zest or for cocoa lovers, a dangerously luxurious Hot chocolate and almond pudding with praline parfait. The meal finishes with a pot of homemade chocolate truffles which you can eat in the restaurant or take away as a little momento of the meal.

Bruce doesn’t just provide delicious food for hungry foodies, he inspires food lovers to try his easy recipes to create these amazing dishes themselves. I am a convert, and as soon as I have my own kitchen will be using his cookbook on a regular basis.

More information here: www.chezbruce.co.uk/