The Dorchester Grill has had a much needed makeover, upgrading from the dated heavy tartan carpet and an excess of dark colours to a lighter and brighter gloriously golden room. The Dorchester has always been considered one of the very finest hotels in London with prestigious restaurant options to suit every occasion or preference. I am lucky enough to have tried the afternoon tea here, as well as a meticulous meal at Alain Ducasse’s three star eatery. The Grill, the flagship restaurant at the hotel, serves British classics, prepared and presented to the highest standards, using the top seasonal produce available.
We went along, in our very best attire, for a Sunday Roast. I felt very young and out of place amongst the genteel and mature diners. It is now Alain Ducasse who overlooks the kitchen and his protégé Christophe Marleix who has taken on the role of head chef. The menu features familiar favourites as well as a host of contemporary and elaborate additions. On Sundays the daily format changes offering a more limited choice of indulgent British classics, including the, no trimmings spared, Roast meal, available with Beef, Pork Belly, Salmon Steak or Free-range Chicken.
After some rustic fresh bread and butter and a glass of the seasonal champagne and pomegranate aperitif, we had to concentrate on the job in hand and choose from the six delicious sounding starters. Still chilly from the Baltic weather outside, I opted for Pumpkin soup with smoked duck, while my guest decided on the seaside-inspired Lemon sole ‘goujonnettes & chips’ with tartare sauce. My soup was a gorgeous marigold hue, a smooth silky texture with salty nuggets of meat and dainty chives. Despite its thickness, the soup avoided being rich and heavy. The sole fish fingers were chunky and crispy with a tender fleshy interior, though we found the portion rather large.
Having watched the majestic silver meat trolley roll around the room, I was excited to have it park up next to our table. Along with the neatly carved Aberdeen Angus Rib Steak we tried the slow cooked pork belly, a rich rectangular slice. The fine meats were presented with suitably divine gravy, though my pork needed much more, after a few mouthfuls it was a little dry for my taste. My mum makes the best roast potatoes, but these were perhaps the finest I’ve tasted in a restaurant, with a satisfyingly crunchy outside and soft centre. The staff were kind enough to bring me some wondrously creamy mashed potato, which vanished within minutes. The vegetables and Yorkshire puddings were nothing special, so I saved my appetite for the delectable meat and potatoes.
There is no shortage of staff at the Dorchester and this is particularly true at the Grill where there are numerous waiters on hand to assist with every and any request. I found the service a little smothering, after almost every mouthful a member of staff would pop up to check it met expectations… With a face full of food I had to just nod politely to encourage them away. The sommelier, however, really impressed me, bringing us intriguing and unique wines every step of the way to accentuate and complement the flavours in our food. We particularly liked the 2012 Le Petit Caillou, Saint Julien, a Bordeaux Blend that was smooth and fruity and matched the beef brilliantly.
Desserts are a modern take on traditional English puddings. The Bread and butter pudding was filling and comforting with a lovely caramelised taste. I tried the ‘Essentially chocolate’ from Alain Ducasse Manufacture, in Paris, an layered chocolate disc with a little bowl of coffee granita.
The New Grill remains an iconic part of the Dorchester palace but updating and upgrading it should enable it to appeal to a wider audience. Go along for the grand Sunday lunch and celebrate the best of British in one of the UK’s most celebrated hotels.
More information and book a table at The Grill here.
