Things to do in Budapest

Before visiting I knew little of Budapest’s twin city appeal. Dramatically divided by the Danube, Hungary’s beautiful capital offers a wealth of exciting sights and activities for visitors. Linked by the epic chain bridge Buda and Pest are very different areas to explore. Buda is a historic hub characterised by its amazing hills, and here you will find the most important tourist attractions. The retro Furnicular carts transport you up the hill to the Castle District where you can see the Royal Palace, Matthias Church and Fisherman’s Bastion. Pest is the younger and trendier side of the city where people go to work, shop and play. This area is action packed with creative opportunities and has much more of a buzz about it. We spent most of our time here eating, drinking, shopping and marvelling at the impressive buildings surrounding us. I would urge any Budapest guest to visit both sides of the city to experience a true flavour of the Hungarian way of life.
To Do
Szechenyi Baths: thermal baths are a unique aspect of Budapest and this venue is one of the most renowned. In the open air this picturesque pool soothes guests all year round. It is the largest of its kind in Europe and feels quite extraordinary to be in such a hot pool of blue water outside, especially when it is snowing around you!
Gellert Baths: The Gellert Baths are a traditional Hungarian Bath complex locted in the Gellert Hotel in Buda, along the Danube. It is open to the public, but hotel guests enjoy free admission. These baths are stunning and will leave you feeling refreshed and cleansed.
– Boat trip Danube: Even on a gloomy winters day The Legende one hour Boat Trip was worth doing. Offering an unrivalled view of the city on both sides, you will understand the history and culture of Budapest and see all the great architecture. Book here.
– Climb up to the top of the St Stephen’s Basilica (known as Budapest Cathedral), the largest Church in the city. We visited at sunset to see the whole city illuminated and glowing.
To See
Museum of Fine Arts: This huge regal building is hard to miss. We saw a lovely Cezanne exhibition when we visited in January… and it is always worth going along to see the permanent collection of Spanish masters and Venetian paintings.
House of Terror Museum: Sadly this much talked about museum was closed for refurbishment when I was in Budapest but I’ve heard the exhibition on the Holocaust is memorably affecting and a must see.
Opera: Enjoy a performance at the world famous Budapest State Opera House… though be warned you are unlikely to understand a word, Hungarian subtitles are not easy to translate.
To Eat
Ringcafe Burgers: Located on the main Andrassy Street Ringcafe is known to have the best burgers in town. The owner was recently in London sussing out the best on offer, returning to Budapest with a load of fresh new ideas. The menu has an extensive list of burger varieties, and they are delicious, with soft juicy meat and brilliant accompaniments.
Gundel: Famous for its fine brunches, this restaurant presents Hungarian food with a French twist. The Gundel pancakes are particularly popular amongst diners!
Onyx: This opulent fine restaurant is one of two Michelin starred establishments in Hungary. Chef Szabina Szullo artfully reinterprets Hungarian classics with precision and care. The food and wine are exquisite.
New York Cafe: Located in the Boscolo Hotel, this cafe has always been a favourite for locals and tourists in Budapest. The rich history and beautiful interior is more of a reason to visit than the food.
To Sleep
Boscolo: This epic hotel is indulgent and impressive both inside and out. The baroque rooms and suites are luxurious and the hotel also offers wonderful spa and fitness facilities.
Four Seasons: A deluxe five star palace, the Gresham Four Seasons is fit for a king/queen. Architecturally amazing and immaculately designed, the Danube facing suites are arguably the most desirable rooms in the city.
With fantastic food, sights and culture, I find it bizarre that Budapest is not a more popular destination for European weekends away. If you are looking for a cheap and memorable trip abroad, book flights to Hungary immediately.
Many thanks to the Budapest Tourist Board for all their help with this trip. More information here.

THOROUGHLY MODERN MISS: Salad Days, Riverside

After a hearty burger at the Riverside Studios buzzy restaurant, we make our way into the main studio and are greeted warmly by a professor who hands us our degree scrolls and congratulates us on our hard work – we’ve just passed our finals! As we walk across the grassy stage/quad to our seats it becomes clear that we have just arrived at our graduation ceremony – and soon the show is in full swing with a wonderfully silly “The Things That Are Done By A Don”, a flurry of caps and gowns, and camp.

What follows is a couple of hours of joy and fun, both ridiculous and irresistibly charming. The plot is absurd in the extreme: a tramp bequeaths a piano (named Minnie?!) to a couple of recent grads, Jane and Tim,  for a month, whilst he takes a little holiday. It emerges that when played, Minnie, the piano, provokes uncontrollable dancing in all within hearing distance. Meanwhile, our two leads decide to get married, to assuage Jane’s mother  (Jane’s degree leads not to the workplace but the altar in this pre-feminist era) and start busking to fend off pressure from Tim’s mother to find a job with one of four influential uncles.  Along the way the couple pick up a bevy of colourful friends, including a sweet mute Troppo (Lee Boggess) who is devoted to Minnie and the wonderfully posh and blustering Lord Nigel (Luke Alexander) as well as a few enemies including PC Boot and a government minister who wants to seize Minnie and put a stop to the dancing. It’s worth noting this resume simplifies the story significantly; suffice to say there is a scene in a flying saucer  – in fact, it’s so bonkers that we agreed that if you tried to pitch it as a storyline to a producer these days, you’d probably be dispatched to the nearest funny farm.

The play is set firmly in the 1950s and the company embraces this wholeheartedly, with the girls prettily preened and petticoated and accents all prim and proper and perfectly pitched, in the “I-say-that’s-orfully-sweet-of-you” mode.

It’s wholesome and also hilariously naughty in parts, with lines such as “I suppose people are constantly bumping in London!” and “Batter me, shatter me, break my anatomy,” illiciting titters from the more immature among us.  The Carry-on campness of a clownish seduction at the beginning of Act II, where Asphynxia (Kathryn Martin), the singer in Cleopatra’s Nightclub, flounces and poses in full Egyptian garb like an over-sexed Patsy from AbFab, had us all in stitches. Similarly funny is the scene where Jane shows the feckless Nigel that “It’s Easy to Sing” when he sings after them: it perfectly highlights the kind of daftness that is particular to English humour.

However it’s the gorgeous quirkiness and attention to detail in this production, which really marks it out as something special in a world of commercial, pre-fabricated West End productions. From the scrolls handed to the audience at the start, to a baby’s leg doing high-kicks out of it’s pram in a dance section, everything is fastidiously considered. Evidence of this is also seen in the beautifully choreographed numbers such as the “Find Yourself Something to Do” breakfast scene, gloriously and thoughtfully directed by Bill Bankes-Jones and Nick Sutcliffe. It’s also worth saying that the live band are integrated perfectly into the show, interacting with the performers in a few scenes, particularly the twinkly fingered pianist Anthony Ingle.

We arrived feeling somewhat glum and chilly on a cold January day, and left feeling joyous, warm and ever so silly!

Continues until March 2nd, book here.
Written by a Thoroughly Modern Miss, Justine Thyme.

The Flying Dutchman, Budapest State Opera

Wagner’s ‘The Flying Dutchman’ is difficult enough to grasp in English, but sung in German with Hungarian subtitles, it is impossible. Having seen an ENO production, I felt I had some understanding of the piece, but this strange Hungarian realisation seemed to throw all logic out the window. This entirely new production launches the Budapest State Opera’s 2013 season and celebrates Wagner’s bicentenary.

The Budapest Opera House is amazing, and recommended in all the guidebooks as a must-see attraction in the city. Located on the main Andrassy Boulevard, it is very central and surrounded by cute bars and cafes (including the renowned Ring Cafe burger bar). The building is one of the most significant icons of the city, a symbol of the rich Hungarian operatic tradition.

I was expecting great ballgowns and smart suits but this premiere evening seemed to be quite a solemn affair for the Hungarian crowd who barely dress up for a night at the opera. We were by far the youngest and least stern visitors in attendance for opening night!

This version of the opera is eccentric and mysterious, with crazy costumes and a futuristic set. I thought Thomas Gazheli was rather weak as the Dutchman, he struggled with the presence needed for this epic Wagnerian role and appeared lacklustre. Leading Lady Lukacs Gyongyi was the most promising singer of the night, blossoming during her solo arias, and working well with others.

Check out the programme before committing to tickets at the Budapest Opera House, find an opera you recognise and the evening could be a highlight of your trip, but if you are unsure of the work I’d give it a miss… Hungarian is not an easy language to interpret or understand.

More information here.

http://www.opera.hu/en