An Edinburgh Itinerary

The best thing about my brother’s Edinburgh University education is the excuse it gives me for four years of visiting rights to Scotland’s picturesque capital city. Rivalling London with its impressive selection of fine dining, cool bars and attractive historical sights, it is the ideal place for a weekend break in Britain.

9 am: after a heavenly buffet breakfast at the Caledonian Hotel pack your map and umbrella and set out for Princes Street, Edinburgh’s busiest shopping road.

10 am: Wander through the boutiques until you reach Artisan Roast for the perfect cup of coffee. But a note to Potter geeks; the cafe keenly states that ‘JK Rowling did not write here!’

10.30 am: If you dare, the dungeons are worth a visit. Catch one of the live shows for spooky stories and amusing anecdotes about Scotland’s murky past.

12.30 pm: Head to the Leith area for lunch by the waterside. Edinburgh boasts five Michelin starred eateries, The Kitchin is perhaps the healthiest, offering beautifully presented, seasonally inspired recipes. The lunch menu is very reasonable with three courses priced at £26 per person.

2 pm: Jump on the 22 bus back into town for an afternoon of sightseeing. The National Museum of Scotland is currently displaying an awesome Viking exhibition, but their permanent collection is enough to lure you in all year round.

3 pm: Potter around Grassmarket and exchange a tea and cake break with a trip to Oink! the thrifty but thoroughly Scottish snack of hog roast and haggis. Pop into the most popular vintage shop, Armstrong’s for a look through their racks of hand-me-downs.

4 pm: Trek up through the Royal Mile, past the bagpipers, to the renowned Edinburgh Castle… step back in time in this amazing medieval building which overlooks the entire city. Students avoid the place at all costs, adhering to the superstitious rumour that they will fail their finals if they step over the Castle threshold. Then just moments away is the Camera Obscura and World of Illusions, a mesmerising interactive exhibition; we especially loved the dizzying vortex tunnel.

7 pm: For cocktails the Last Word Saloon is the only place to go. Choose the deliciously well balanced John Candy concoction or pick their masterful rendition of the famous gin drink the bar is named after.

8.30 pm: There is no need to look further than the Caledonian Hotel for supper. With the talented Galvin brothers at the helm, you have the choice to dine at the smart Pompadour Restaurant or the more casual Brasserie de Luxe. We couldn’t fault the Parisian style dishes and the immaculate service. When tiredness sets in drift upstairs to bed.

For massive savings and minimal stress buy the Edinburgh Pass… undoubtedly the most efficient way to see all the city’s delights!

For more information see the Edinburgh tourist board website here.

Thoroughly Modern Milly travelled with East Coast Trains. East Coast operates regular services each weekday between London King’s Cross and Edinburgh. Customers travelling First Class can enjoy East Coast’s complimentary food and drinks offer plus unlimited Wi-Fi. Book advanced return fares online at www.eastcoast.co.uk. Times and fares can also be found via 08457 225225 or from any staffed stations.

Things to do in Paris 2013

Paris is heavenly all year round. Here are some discoveries from my latest winter trip…

Food

Camion qui Fume: Find this van. Best burger I’ve tasted in a long while. Sloppy but deliciously assembled, flavoursome but not too rich… accompanied by hand-chipped fries. Queue (for ages) and beg, borrow or steal one of these magnificent baps (the lady behind us resorted to bribery when she was denied one!)

Benoit: Alain Ducasse’s perfect French bistro serving up traditional dishes and familiar recipes. Awarded a Michelin star unsurprisingly for the exceptional food, service and atmosphere.

Le Paris at Lutetia Hotel: Located in the spectacular Lutetia hotel, I felt like I had travelled back in time sitting in the ornate Sonia Rykiel designed Le Paris dining room. Fine dining at its best.

Drink

Le Coq: Heard of Tony Conigliaro? He bought us gems like 69 Colbrooke Row, now he’s teamed up with French bar masterminds to create Le Coq, a hip place serving incredible cocktails and indulgent cheese and charcuterie boards.

Experimental Cocktail Club: A smaller and less conspicuous version of the London bar. Fine drinks are mixed up by the suited and booted barmen. Unique and inventive ECC recipes continue to enamour the Parisian guests.

Angelina’s: The thickest, most luxurious hot chocolate in town. Queue for a table in the lovely salon or pick up a cup to go, it will warm your hands and hearts while you wander round the city.

To Do

Catacombes:  ‘Stop. This is the Empire of Death,’ an engraved sign reads. A spooky underground world, and a must see site in Paris. With public burial pits overflowing in the era of Revolutionary terror the Catacombes were created to house the bones of six million people. Follow the 2 km tunnels to discover millions of bones and skulls from residents of Paris’s past.

Cruise down the Seine: Pick up a boat at the foot of the Eiffel Tower and travel past the great sites of Paris. As you float down the river, point out the familiar buildings, bridges and statues, a delightful way to see the city. More information and book with Viator here.

Palais de Tokyo: Why have I never discovered this venue before? This epic 1937 building opened in 2002 as an open-plan space hosting exhibitions and performances. Wacky work, super shop, cool cafe and best of all… a vintage Photomaton machine, jump in and pose away, create a strip of memories for just 2 euros!

To shop

Mariage Freres: A tea heaven, beautiful boxes and aromatic tea. MF have several outlets including a convenient shop just by the entrance to the Louvre.

Colette: The queen of the concept shops: books, shoes, cameras, jewellery, stationery, clothes, candles… and everything else you could possibly want to find. Everything is quirky, rare and utterly desirable.

The Kooples: The original; a cheaper and more varied collection in comparison to the UK branches. Get a Kooples outfit and you’ll fit in fine among the Frenchies.

To Stay

Hotel Legend: This dinky boutique hotel is ideally located for tourist trips. Crisp white minimalist rooms are a comfortable and attractive place to rest your head. Perhaps the most exciting feature is the impressive memory foams beds which ensure a deep and dreamy night’s sleep.

Hotel Seven: Special themed suites make this hotel one of a kind. Alice in Wonderland and 007 decorated rooms are just two of the suites on offer. Stylish and swish, this little hotel promises a memorable stay.

Book the Eurostar a few months in advance and you can travel for less than £70 return. I’m looking forward to my next trip already!

Thanks to the Paris Tourist Board, more information here.

Things to do in Budapest

Before visiting I knew little of Budapest’s twin city appeal. Dramatically divided by the Danube, Hungary’s beautiful capital offers a wealth of exciting sights and activities for visitors. Linked by the epic chain bridge Buda and Pest are very different areas to explore. Buda is a historic hub characterised by its amazing hills, and here you will find the most important tourist attractions. The retro Furnicular carts transport you up the hill to the Castle District where you can see the Royal Palace, Matthias Church and Fisherman’s Bastion. Pest is the younger and trendier side of the city where people go to work, shop and play. This area is action packed with creative opportunities and has much more of a buzz about it. We spent most of our time here eating, drinking, shopping and marvelling at the impressive buildings surrounding us. I would urge any Budapest guest to visit both sides of the city to experience a true flavour of the Hungarian way of life.
To Do
Szechenyi Baths: thermal baths are a unique aspect of Budapest and this venue is one of the most renowned. In the open air this picturesque pool soothes guests all year round. It is the largest of its kind in Europe and feels quite extraordinary to be in such a hot pool of blue water outside, especially when it is snowing around you!
Gellert Baths: The Gellert Baths are a traditional Hungarian Bath complex locted in the Gellert Hotel in Buda, along the Danube. It is open to the public, but hotel guests enjoy free admission. These baths are stunning and will leave you feeling refreshed and cleansed.
– Boat trip Danube: Even on a gloomy winters day The Legende one hour Boat Trip was worth doing. Offering an unrivalled view of the city on both sides, you will understand the history and culture of Budapest and see all the great architecture. Book here.
– Climb up to the top of the St Stephen’s Basilica (known as Budapest Cathedral), the largest Church in the city. We visited at sunset to see the whole city illuminated and glowing.
To See
Museum of Fine Arts: This huge regal building is hard to miss. We saw a lovely Cezanne exhibition when we visited in January… and it is always worth going along to see the permanent collection of Spanish masters and Venetian paintings.
House of Terror Museum: Sadly this much talked about museum was closed for refurbishment when I was in Budapest but I’ve heard the exhibition on the Holocaust is memorably affecting and a must see.
Opera: Enjoy a performance at the world famous Budapest State Opera House… though be warned you are unlikely to understand a word, Hungarian subtitles are not easy to translate.
To Eat
Ringcafe Burgers: Located on the main Andrassy Street Ringcafe is known to have the best burgers in town. The owner was recently in London sussing out the best on offer, returning to Budapest with a load of fresh new ideas. The menu has an extensive list of burger varieties, and they are delicious, with soft juicy meat and brilliant accompaniments.
Gundel: Famous for its fine brunches, this restaurant presents Hungarian food with a French twist. The Gundel pancakes are particularly popular amongst diners!
Onyx: This opulent fine restaurant is one of two Michelin starred establishments in Hungary. Chef Szabina Szullo artfully reinterprets Hungarian classics with precision and care. The food and wine are exquisite.
New York Cafe: Located in the Boscolo Hotel, this cafe has always been a favourite for locals and tourists in Budapest. The rich history and beautiful interior is more of a reason to visit than the food.
To Sleep
Boscolo: This epic hotel is indulgent and impressive both inside and out. The baroque rooms and suites are luxurious and the hotel also offers wonderful spa and fitness facilities.
Four Seasons: A deluxe five star palace, the Gresham Four Seasons is fit for a king/queen. Architecturally amazing and immaculately designed, the Danube facing suites are arguably the most desirable rooms in the city.
With fantastic food, sights and culture, I find it bizarre that Budapest is not a more popular destination for European weekends away. If you are looking for a cheap and memorable trip abroad, book flights to Hungary immediately.
Many thanks to the Budapest Tourist Board for all their help with this trip. More information here.