Zalacain is located in a quiet part of Madrid, yet this doesn’t deter it’s loyal and elite clientele. We seemed to approach by the back door… hesitantly we followed a dark leafy path peering through the windows to see white-jacketed waiters busy polishing cutlery and adding the finishing touches to the ornate dining room. At 9pm when we took our seats at a discreet corner table as the first guests of the night (the Spanish eat very late, we learned) we had the waiting staff’s full attention.
Zalacain celebrated its 40th anniversary in 2013 and there is still very much a feeling of proud achievement amongst the staff, they serve with a smile and obvious enthusiasm. Traditional and grand, it is clear to see why this restaurant is favoured by the King and Queen of Spain. We found that the staff ensure every guest is treated like royalty. Over the years Zalacain has accrued a series of prestigious awards, is included in Le Grande Tables du Monde and has retained a Michelin-star for many years.
The decor reminded me of a grand stately home. The formal dining room is decorated in heavy, luxurious dark red, with silver plates and autumnal floral centrepieces adding colour to the tables. On the walls the restaurant showcases their impressive art collection. Those guests desiring more intimacy and exclusivity can choose to dine in one of the private rooms, which are equally beautifully dressed.
Alongside the 40th anniversary set menu (which they have kept in use), there is a seven course tasting menu or a full a la carte. Highlighted on the main menu are the Zalacain Classics, specialities of the chef. Wanting free reign, we chose from the a la carte. Ravioli stuffed with wild mushrooms and fresh goose-liver with “Melansporum” truffle was a petite but rich dish with a woody flavoursome filling and thin but creamy sauce. Seasonal vegetable stew was a much healthier option, a simple peasant dish, softened vegetables with a touch of saltiness from the tiny chunks of pork.
For mains, beef steak in red wine with marrow of young veal was the star dish. Perfectly marbled meat cooked exactly to specification and served in a tasty red wine jus, every mouthful was savoured. The little grain roast chicken was a lighter alternative, crispy salty skin and white tender meat. As is customary in the restaurant, the dishes arrive with a sharing plate of hot homemade puffs of potato, airy and delicious.
Of the wines we sampled, the Cava aperitif and Zalacain’s carefully selected Rioja stood out.
My dessert was a little odd, described on the menu as coconut cake it arrived as layers of cream separated by thin chocolate slices, all sitting in a pool of pale green minty sauce. In contrast, the hot chocolate volcanic with four spices and pistachio ice-cream was very successful, a gooey chocolate fondant and refreshing nutty ice-cream.
Zalacain is a place the Madrileñas come for a special meal out; for us tourists it was a wonderful insight into the culinary and dining traditions of this gastronomically exciting country.
More information and book here.
Many thanks to the Madrid Tourist Board for their help with this trip, more information here.
