River Cafe, Hammersmith

As December approached last year, I found I was being repeatedly asked: ‘where is the best place for a work Christmas meal and party’? The specifications were always challenging: big enough, cosy enough, special enough, posh enough, cheap enough, private dining facilities, entire exclusivity, location… there is so much to consider, and it is a daunting responsibility to choose the venue, date and menus to satisfy the whole company.

London venues fill up fast and the prices escalate as workers all over town become more desperate for the perfect venue. This year I had my work celebrations at a very special restaurant, The River Café in Hammersmith. On a misty Wednesday lunchtime the setting was bleak and beautiful by the river. The open plan restaurant looks industrial from the exterior, slightly like a swimming baths. But inside the dining room is light and fresh with white draped tables and a psychedelic neon pink oven at the rear of the restaurant.

We were seated at the back in the lovely private dining room which seats up to 18 guests. The dining room has its own entrance with views onto the terrace and into the open kitchen. Cheese lovers will enjoy looking at the glass fronted cheese room which exhibits a selection of unusual Italian cheeses. The waiters were kind and patient with our rowdy group! We started with flutes of Prosecco, battered artichokes and pumpkin bruschetta. For starters a selection of antipasti were delivered to the table – highlights were the plump and creamy buffalo mozzarella and delicately smoky prosciutto ham.

Known for its exquisite homemade pasta, I persuaded our waiter to allow me to have a River Café pasta dish, despite its absence on the set menu. The buttery Agnoli packages of pasta filled with a rich and aromatic mix of rabbit, pheasant, pancetta, bay and Il Balzo Chianti Rufina was divine, I could have eaten double the amount. Other successes round the table were the thick-cut roast veal chop with capers, sage, lemon peel, Prosciutto di Parma and Risina beans and the chargrilled, marinated leg of lamb with smashed pumpkin & potato and hot olive & anchovy sauce. It was a feast of Italian delights.

Dessert for me was a disappointment, I found the pannacotta with pomegranate sloppy and unappetisingly presented. I looked adoringly at the plate of cheese that my neighbour was devouring. Wine was carefully and expertly chosen throughout the meal, complementing the food and flavours.

The River Café is one of the longest running, most successful fine dining restaurants in London, and I was impressed with every aspect of our experience here.

Era Ora, Copenhagen

For those who can’t get a space at Noma there are plenty of other Michelin-starred successes on the Copenhagen restaurant scene. Northern Italy is particularly well represented by the glorious fine dining restaurant, Era Ora. This inconspicuous dining room is found in Christianshavn, and showcases the very best of Italian cuisine. With ingredients shipped in from Italy, the freshest and most authentic flavours are guaranteed.

On a quiet Saturday lunchtime we had the full attention of Simone Celeghin, officially the sommelier but brilliant at handling every aspect of service required in such a high standard restaurant. His accommodating and inspirational character made the whole experience so special.

Wine is obviously a big deal at Era Ora and their cellar contains over 97,000 bottles. Featuring carefully selected vintages from Italy alone, many may want to visit this eatery just for the wine experience. Wine can be chosen from the extensive carte, or enjoyed as part of a wine menu, meticulously paired with your food for an unforgettable gastronomic journey.

Era Ora was launched in 1983 by founders Elvio Milleri and Edelvita Santos with the aim of expanding knowledge and perceptions of Italian cuisine in Copenhagen. The imaginative and expertly created dishes of Head Chef Andrea Guglielmi have rightfully earned the team a Michelin star.
We started with a glass of Barrone Pizzini sparkling rose. No menus were given to us; Simone had complete control over our lunch! Five glasses of wine beautifully accompanied our five food courses. Slow-cooked chicken with bell pepper and lentils in Guazzetto was a delicate and delicious appetiser, immaculately paired with a glass of crisp and full bodied 2007 Villa Fidelia Bianco from Umbria.

My favourite dish came next, Homemade Trofie pasta with wild boar ragout and lightly grilled Savoy cabbage. It was an aromatic and irresistible sauce, and the homemade pasta was cooked to perfection. Perhaps the first time I’ve had a bowl of pasta and not needed Parmesan on top. To accompany this course we were treated to a glass of 2009 Nebbiolo from Piemonte, a light and fruity red.

The braised veal main course with a chocolate and red wine sauce, was a slightly more experimental recipe, that intrigued the palate but didn’t stun. A petite cheese course featured a unique blue variety of Pecorino with nutty bread and citrus foam. Dessert was lovely and light with orange, sbrisolona, and pistachio served on a beautiful Venetian plate, a playful and pretty pudding.

Initially I felt guilty for indulging in Italian food whilst in Denmark, but when it is this good how could one resist? Era Ora offers Italian food and service at its very best, and as I put this thought in the comments book on departure, I noticed every other message expressed the same sentiment.

More information and book a table here: www.era-ora.dk

Many thanks to the Copenhagen Tourist Board for their help with this trip, more information here.

Ember Yard, Soho

The festive season is about feeling full, all the time. A strange time perhaps for the newest Salt Yard restaurant to open. But loyal to my favourite restaurant Opera Tavern, I felt compelled to try this new member of the collection ASAP. This Christmas, Ember Yard joins the Salt Yard family of Italian-Spanish tapas restaurants alongside Salt Yard (Goodge Street), Opera Tavern (Covent Garden) and Dehesa (Carnaby Street).

And so, after much haggling for a table, my best friends and I arrived at Ember Yard for our special Soho Supperclub Christmas meal. Much like the other eateries Ember Yard focuses on high quality, utterly irresistible Spanish produce (think divine Manchego and rich Iberico ham) and little plates of delectable fish, meat and vegetable recipes. As the name suggests, Ember Yard has an emphasis on chargrilling.

It is a familiar feel… dimly lit restaurant, cosy tables closely packed together and atmospheric bar stools for those who want to be closer to the action. The menu is much like the other restaurants, with a few of its own signature dishes. At Opera Tavern they pride themselves on their mini Iberico pork and fois gras burger, and rightly so, it is unbelievably good. In an effort to repeat this success Ember Yard have created their own interpretation: Smoked Basque Beef Burger with Idiazabal and Chorizo Ketchup. I loved it, though not quite as much as the sweet and indulgent Opera Tavern original. Other highlights included the silky tender Grilled Iberico Presa with rich Whipped Jamon Butter and Grilled Salt Marsh Lamb, with roasted aubergine and salsa verde which was an earthy and exquisite combination of ingredients. We found the Iberico Pork Fat Chips with Chorizo a little disappointing, the tangy ketchup is delicious but the chips were a little too dry and needed more seasoning. For a green kick the Seasonal Italian Greens with Chilli are a fresh accompaniment to the meat mains.

Desserts were tempting but we managed to resist on this trip, they will have to be a treat for next time. As expected the wine list is thorough and fine, the house white and red were both were exemplary and priced very reasonably.

Salt Yard Group have done it again. Unlike the locations of its other members, Soho is already filled with tapas style venues vying for your custom, but with food this good I have no doubt that Ember Yard will be a favourite in no time.

More information and book here.

www.emberyard.co.uk