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Things to do in Sydney

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It felt like a dream arriving by train into the Emerald city of Sydney. This iconic Australian destination has the perfect balance of city excitement and beach bliss and I couldn’t wait to explore. Thanks to the sunny climate it is easy to discover the neighbourhoods on foot, finding your own hidden gems as you tick off the essential sights.

 old clare hotel

To Stay

Shangri-La Sydney – a brilliant option for short stays in Sydney, this luxurious hotel is located in the historic Rocks district. Marvel at the Opera House and Harbour Bridge from your bedroom window.

Old Clare Hotel – this new boutique hotel is found in the hip and gritty Chippendale area on the redeveloped Kensington Street precinct. The design is effortlessly cool, with 62 bedrooms, three destination restaurants, a bar and a rooftop pool.

bennelong

To Eat

Master – One of the hottest openings of 2015, this Surry Hills eatery is run by John Javier (former intern at Noma). He creates modern Chinese dishes with flair and finesse. Try the jowl peking pork with pancakes and cucumber, and order a side of special cabbage with fish butter.

Reuben Hills – a hip brunch spot in the trendy Surry Hills area serving delicious coffee and tasty South American recipes.

10 Williams Street – this cute wine bar is a great place to meet friends and enjoy a glass of organic, orange Australian wine. If you are hungry the succinct menu offers a range of tempting Italian dishes and nibbles.

Cho Cho San – a chic and minimalist modern Japanese restaurant with delicious small plates and inventive cocktails. I loved the addictive chicken karaage and the refreshing lychee & pineapple slushie.

Ester – A creative contemporary restaurant in a dressed-down industrial space. Much of the menu is cooked in the wood-fired oven and features some quirky clever recipes by chef Mat Lindsay. The roast duck with burnt honey sauce is a must.

Acme – The name comes from the initials of the four friends who opened up this fantastic little restaurant. Reasonably priced with a great vibe, it was one of my favourite restaurants in Australia. Don’t miss the pig’s head and egg yolk macaroni and the coconut rice cream with white chocolate for dessert.

Edition – There is always a queue for brunch at this Nordic – Japanese fusion café. Enjoy their premium artisanal coffee and the matcha hot cakes with mascarpone and passionfruit.

Farmhouse – It’s almost impossible to get a space at this rustic communal dining experience. With just 20 seats, the intimate restaurant is always full. Try to book in advance for Sunday lunch and let the knowledgeable team feed your stomach and soul with delicious homely fare.

Bourke Street Bakery – this neighbourhood bakery first opened in 2004 and has since expanded all over the city. The unique ginger crème brûlée tart is unmissable.

To Drink

Artificer Speciality Coffee – my favourite coffee stop in Sydney was this minimalist café on Bourke Street. Opened by two talented baristas, the coffee is rich and creamy and the space is Japanese inspired.

Paramount Coffee Project – this joint is serious about good coffee. Located in the foyer of Paramount House, a lovely art deco building… swing by for a delicious American brunch and cup of fine coffee.

Mecca Alexandria – Mecca Coffee started in the centre of town and quickly developed a loyal following. The new branch in Alexandria opened in a former warehouse, and the industrial space has been given a makeover by Smith & Carmody. The coffee is delicious and the menu offers some tempting treats too.

Bulletin Place – this tiny bar is highly regarded on the Sydney cocktail scene. The service is very personal and the drinks are unpretentious but brilliantly creative. We tasted a couple of their seasonal cocktails: the Cherry Navy and the Banana Prescription.

Opera Bar – Sitting in this al fresco bar beneath the iconic opera house is one of the best things to do in the Sydney sunshine.

Baxter Inn – this prohibition whisky bar is almost impossible to find, but it is worth the hunt. Sit at the bar and order an old fashioned (which they have on tap) or a speciality Whiskey Apple made with freshly pressed Granny Smith apples.

Shady Pines – Another prohibition-style favourite, Shady Pines is a fun and fabulous bar decorated with taxidermy and cowboy themed décor. Order a craft cocktail from the list or ask the bartenders to whip you up something bespoke.

The Winery – on warm days there is nothing better than sipping a glass of wine in a sheltered courtyard. This laid back Surry Hills establishment has a reasonable and interesting wine list and is the perfect place to wile away the afternoon.

To See & Do

Museum of Contemporary Art Australia – Housed in a grand art deco building on Sydney Quay, this museum exhibits international and Australian modern art. When we visited a vibrant retrospective of Grayson Perry’s work was on show.

Art Gallery of New South Wales – Nearby to the Botanic Gardens this grand building showcases a permanent collection of 19th and 20th century Australian art as well as regularly rotating temporary shows.

Golden Age Cinema – For special cinematic outings book tickets to the exclusive Golden Age Cinema; a glamorous, boutique screening room in the Paramount Building. The cinema shows classic and cult movies, as well as occasional new releases. Save time for a drink in the cosy bar before or after the film.

Walk to Mrs. Macquarie’s chair – For the best view of Sydney Opera House and the Harbour Bridge this lovely walk along the water is a must. The sandstone chair was carved for the wife of the Governor of New South Wales in 1810.

Royal Botanic Gardens – It is free to visit these beautiful gardens, and when inside it seems impossible that you could be so close to the city centre. Sit by the lake or enjoy the pavilion glasshouses.

White Rabbit – A rare chance to see a collection of 21st century Chinese contemporary art. After you’ve wandered around the free exhibitions grab a bite to eat in the buzzy café and bar.

Walk from Coogee Beach to Bondi Beach – Everyone you ask recommends this picturesque walk. It is a 6km walk that takes you past six beaches before reaching the famous Bondi stretch. Reward yourself with a drink at Icebergs, which boasts arguably the best views of the beach. In spring, a sculptural exhibition takes place on part of the coast.

Watsons Bay – Just a short bus journey from the city, this Eastern suburb is a popular escape for locals. Grab a rock melon sorbet on Camp Cove Beach or head to Watson’s Bay Hotel Beach Club for a drink.

venroy

To Shop 

The Stables – this Surry Hills boutique offers a range of forward-thinking designers and desirable accessories. At the back, a cute café offers sustenance for hungry shoppers.

Somedays – hidden away up an unmarked staircase, Somedays stocks a range of local and international designers, focusing on Nordic fashion influencers.

Venroy – Gould street in Bondi is a great place to pick up fashionable Australian souvenirs. Venroy was my favourite shop, a local brand that creates authentic and beautiful garments. The pastel swimshorts are super stylish and great value for money.

To Escape

Manly Beach – a 30-minute ferry ride from Sydney Quay, this surfers hang-out has some great venues. Try a burrito at Chica Bonita, coffee at Barefoot or Showbox, and a craft beer at 4 Pines Brewery. To burn off the calories stroll to the remote and calm Shelley Beach.

Blue Mountains – A couple of hours away by train the Blue Mountains is a world heritage region with dramatic scenery and quaint towns. I liked the pretty town of Leura where we had great homemade pizzas at Leura Garage for lunch. For the best views of the Three Sisters walk or take the bus to Echo Point.

Palm Beach – Famous for being the setting of Home & Away this sublime beach is a great getaway from the city. Walk to the Lighthouse for the best views and stop by The Boathouse for a bite to eat.

Hunter Valley – Australia’s most popular wine region offers fine restaurants and beautiful accommodation. Go for a tasting at the idyllic Audrey Wilkinson winery.

Things to do in Melbourne

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I knew I was going to love Melbourne, before I even arrived. Known as the food and coffee capital of Australia there was plenty for me to taste and try in my 10 days there, and it’s almost impossible to pick my favourites from the long list. This cosmopolitan city also boasts some of the country’s best cultural highlights and designers, which kept me entertained in between mealtimes!

the prince melbourne

To Stay

The Prince – a design haven in the bohemian St Kilda district, this chic boutique hotel offers 40 stylish bedrooms. Their two-hatted restaurant, Circa, serves beautiful food; go at lunchtime for the reasonably priced In’n’Out set menu.

To Eat

Supernormal – there is often a queue for this popular fusion restaurant. Have a drink at the bar before devouring indulgent dishes such local oysters, roast duck bao and velvety wagyu beef.

Saint Crispin – I had my favourite Melbourne meal at this modern Australian eatery. Open for lunch Friday to Sunday, you can sample three courses of the chef’s exquisite creations for a fraction of the full dinner price. Before your meal, try the “Snap, crackle and pop”; a magical combination of puffed pork crackling, dashi, brown sugar and white sesame.

Coda – this award-winning basement restaurant is stylish and slick. All the Vietnamese-inspired food is tempting. I suggest ordering half-portions so you can taste a wider variety of dishes – the unique blackened quail is especially good and I loved the fresh and vibrant hanoi roll.

Gelato Messina – the mecca of ice-cream, this much-loved institution has spread across Australia. The Italian-style gelateria makes successfully inventive flavours; salted caramel and white chocolate is the most popular.

Lune Croissanterie – as long as you’re willing to wait (sometimes up to two hours!) you’ll be rewarded with the flakiest croissant, perhaps in the whole of the southern hemisphere. Their perfect pastry recipe was created by a rocket scientist turned chef, which explains the space theme of the bakery.

Top Paddock – the perfect weekend hang-out for a leisurely brunch with friends. Don’t miss their famous blueberry and ricotta hotcake with berries, organic maple, seeds and double cream.

Tipo 00 – this new pasta bar is thrilling the Melbourne locals, and it’s a struggle to nab a table at the intimate venue. Sit at the bar and enjoy a bowl of the homemade pappardelle with braised rabbit, marjoram & hazelnut.

Tuckshop Takeaway – set up by ex-Fat Duck husband and wife team, this cute corner shop serves some of the best burgers I have ever tasted. Everything is homemade, from the bouncy brioche burger buns to the nostalgic sodas and shakes.

Cookie – those in the know head to the 1st floor of the Curtin House building for the city’s best Thai food. Be sure to order the addictively good betel leaf wrapped pork skewers.

To Drink

Patricia Coffee Brewers – those in the know head to Patricia for their morning wake-up. The café was set up by Bowen Holden and Pip Heath in 2011 and named after their grandmothers (coincidentally both called Patricia!). Tucked away in the centre of town, with only standing space, this tiny venue is frequented by local office workers. With leather aprons by Jess Wootten, cups by potter Malcolm Greenwood and pastries by Lune Croissanterie, I loved every detail.

Market Lane Coffee – serving seasonal coffee from around the world these speciality roasters pour some of the best coffee in town. With four branches around Melbourne you are never far away from a Market Lane fix.

Bar Americano – In my opinion this compact bar mixes the finest drinks in town. Hidden away on the corner of Presgrave Place, with enough standing space for just 10, it is a homage to the drinking dens of the 1930s. Order from their short seasonal menu of strong classic cocktails.

Everleigh – This prohibition venue is repeatedly crowned the best bar in Melbourne, and for good reason. Sit at the long glamorous bar and ask the talented mixologists to create something to suit your taste. The juices are squeezed fresh for each drink and ice is supplied by the bar’s own company, and cut as needed.

Black Pearl – A Fitroy favourite, this friendly bar opened over 14 years ago and has a loyal following. Barmen Will entertained us while we drank our creative and tasty drinks. Upstairs, The Attic is a cosy room, perfect for private events.

Siglo – This al fresco rooftop wine bar has great views over Parliament and is always filled with beautiful bohemians. The smell of cigars will linger in the air as you drink a glass of wine from their sophisticated wine list.

ai weiwei

To See & Do

National Gallery of Victoria – This large museum has two branches in different areas of town. At the international venue, wander around the permanent collection of Eastern and Western art, both ancient and modern. We enjoyed the bold and brilliant Ai Weiwei and Warhol temporary show.

Centre for Contemporary Photography – A small gallery in North Fitzroy showcasing eclectic contemporary photo-based art. The centre also host photography courses.

South Melbourne Market – This local covered market has been running since 1867, with a wide range of vendors offering all kinds of food, clothing, homeware and more. It is a lovely place to walk around, stopping when something delicious catches your fancy. I couldn’t resist the baked treats from Agathe.

The Shrine of Remembrance and Botanic Gardens – The Shrine of Remembrance is Melbourne’s most iconic landmark, paying tribute to the lives lost in the first world war. Nearby the beautiful botanic gardens offers a quiet place away from city life. In summer you can go punting on the lake and watch films under the moonlight.

Neighbours Tour – A must for all Ramsay Street fans, meet the stars and find out the secrets behind Australia’s most famous soap.

aesop

To Shop

Aesop – If you are already an Aesop addict you will love shopping at the brand’s stores in their home city. Less than half the price of UK outlets, you can buy the whole face care range without any guilt.

Gertrude, Smith, Johnston and Brunswick Streets – these streets in the hip Fitzroy area are back-to-back with some of the best independent boutiques, local labels and cool eateries.

Loose Leaf – this beautiful flower emporium is a jungle of hanging plants and fragrant blooms. Stop by to pick up one of their lovely bunches or a scented candle.

Monkhouse Design Shop – Found in East Brunswick this carefully curated women’s boutique stocks a unique range of independent luxury labels from Australia and around the world.

The Cool Hunter – This slick store in the Prahan district is a gallery of desirable objects and items. Pick up a The Horse watch or a set of glasses from cult brand Iittala.

Hansom – Hansom was founded by a British couple who opened their first store in 2012. I visited the flagship Fitzroy store and wanted to buy everything from this laidback local brand. I particularly liked the peach cropped palazzo pants paired with a simple white silk shirt.

yarra valley

To Escape

Yarra Valley – This stunning wine region is the perfect day trip from the city, just a one-hour drive from central Melbourne. There are over 80 wineries from small family owned to corporate, all producing cool climate wines. I recommend heading to Innocent Bystander for a tasting and to try their delicious sourdough pizza. If you like fizzy wines, visit the pictoresque Chandon vineyards to sample their collection, including an unusual sparkling red wine.

Things to do in Edinburgh 2015

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My brother’s last year at Edinburgh University meant one last family trip up to Scotland for me. Unfortunately the weekend we chose to visit him happened to be coinciding with the annual Edinburgh Marathon. Needless to say every single bed in the city seemed to be booked up months in advance. Never mind, my brother promised a superior experience at his lads student pad!

It is such a pleasure to travel up to Scotland by train. The Virgin trains are speedy and comfortable, with scenic views from the windows and impressive culinary offerings. I try to visit Edinburgh once a year to sample the newbies on the food and drink scene and see the latest art exhibitions. I was surprised and impressed this year to see a real surge of stylish foodie jaunts and characterful venues.

To eat

El Cartel – this new Mexican restaurant already has a cult following. The small eatery is run by the Bon Vivant team and doesn’t take reservations. The menu offers homemade Mexican treats, washed down with tequila and mescal. My favourites were: Quesadillas with chorizo; sweet potato and soft cheese, and; the Duck taco with pecan salsa, pineapple and jalapeno.

Mary’s Milk Bar – if you are craving ice-cream in Edinburgh, Mary’s Milk Bar is the place to get your fix. The cosy café serves the most delicious creamy ice-cream made with no preservatives and is available in a variety of fresh innovative flavours.

21212 – Set in a refined room in a Georgian townhouse, Paul Kitching’s Michelin star restaurant is often applauded for its unusual flavour combinations which always succeed. The restaurant name refers to the menu layout (2 starters, 1 soup, 2 mains, 1 cheese, 2 desserts). We tried the lunch menu where you can choose between 3, 4 or 5 courses. It was the perfect foodie lunch out for a special occasion.

Gardener’s Cottage – The Gardener’s Cottage in Edinburgh is an idyllic place to eat and spend time. It is found up a little path surrounded by shrubs and vegetable patches. It all seems too good to be true. We creaked open the wooden door to reveal a tiny eatery with long communal tables and homely smells wafting in from the kitchen. In the evenings it is compulsory to have the daily seven course menu which costs £35, but for lunch or brunch you can choose from the reasonably priced a la carte menu.

To drink

Filament Coffee – The independent coffee scene in Edinburgh has exploded in recent months. This speciality coffee shop only opened a few weeks ago, after the success of a pop-up and serves single origin coffees to Edinburgh’s south side. I loved the industrial-chic décor and the delicious coffee.

Cult Espresso – Nearby to the student union, this father, son and friend team of three have a cosy and cool coffee hang out. I enjoyed a strong and creamy flat white here before heading home to London.

Devil’s Advocate – this glamorous and moody bar and kitchen serves some up of the best cocktails I have tasted in Scotland. The menu has a variety of carefully chosen recipes, both original and inspired by bars around the world. I loved the Whiskey Rebellion which is made with bourbon, Cocchi Americano, black tea maple syrup, absinthe, and rosemary.

Brew Lab – This is the perfect place to stop for coffee and a croissant before setting off for a day of sightseeing. The trendy coffee-house offers single origin brews and artisanal produce. The company also arranges coffee training courses for home baristas and professionals.

To do

Ingleby Gallery – this trendy gallery is found beneath the main city station tucked around an unassuming corner. Founded in 1998 this private gallery is renowned for the high quality of its exhibitions and publications. We saw a selection of lovely little paintings by Craig Murray-Orr. Look out for the permanent snail trail of mother of pearl installed by artist Susan Collis.

One Spa – A rainy Sunday morning was the perfect excuse to spend a few hours at One Spa. Part of the Sheraton Grand Hotel (but also operating as a stand-alone spa) they offer a range of treatments and experiences. We enjoyed ‘Escape at One’, which allows guests a few hours to try all the thermal suite and hydropool facilities.

Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art – It is a bit of a walk to the main modern art museum in Edinburgh, but there are picturesque routes to take to get there. The two gallery spaces house a permanent collection of contemporary pieces and host regular temporary exhibitions. When we visited there was a small show of Lichtenstein works. Look out for the neon slogan works on the lawn. Entry is free.

To shop

Life Story – I loved the look of this concept store from the exterior and interior. This little design shop stocks a range of brands from all over the world, including interior items from Ferm Living from Copenhagen, Washi Tape from Japan and knitwear from Hilary Grant.

Dick’s – A stylish menswear shop offering a carefully curated collection of clothes, accessories and homeware. Chic men can completely kit out their wardrobe and homes here with striped naval jumpers from Andersen-Andersen, crockery from Koninklijke Makkum Tichelaar and notebooks from La Compagnie du Kraft Mikro.

Hannah Zakari – This wacky shop sells affordable and fun handmade jewellery by Hannah Zakari. The perfect place to pick up a unique gift or souvenir of your stay in Edinburgh. I loved the perspex weather stud earrings, depicting varying weather conditions. The shop also sells art work, look out for the quaint prints by Kate Broughton.

Walker Slater – This beautiful shop stocks the finest tweed in Edinburgh. Promoting the heritage of Scotland but offering modern tailoring and bespoke suits, this is the place to get stunning Scottish outfit. Walker Slater also have a range of sophisticated accessories and sell a few select British brands like Albert Thurston.

Thoroughly Modern Milly travelled to Edinburgh with Virgin Trains, more information here.