Renowned for his fine steaks in LA, Wolfgang Puck chose London as the lucky city to host his first European restaurant. As part of the Dorchester Collection, the dining experience here is smart and yet the atmosphere exudes casual enjoyment and it is certainly a place where the guests are passionate about food.
I went along on a Tuesday lunchtime, after reviewing an extravagant pedicure. Arriving wearing flip flops, I felt a little under-dressed and silly but the staff settled me in straightaway, seating me at a quiet table towards the back of the restaurant where I could discreetly observe the other guests.
The venue is stunning and I was particularly impressed with 45, Park Lane’s obvious art orientation. At my table I was surrounded by sparkling Damien Hirst butterfly pieces, and was further amazed to hear about all the art events and talks which are currently part of the programme here.
CUT offer a reasonable seasonal ‘Cut on the Hour’ menu. This three course lunch includes two glasses of wine, coffee and half a bottle of water, all for £55. Alongside this special lunch menu, the a la carte offers a comprehensive and exciting variety of dishes with a focus on healthy ingredients. To prepare for the steaks, we opted for light green starters: Roasted Baby Beet salad with Dorstone Goat cheese, toasted pistachio, citrus, & micro basil, and Mint and Spring Pea Soup with Morel mushrooms and English peas. These arrived promptly, after the warm soft onion foccacia bread which I couldn’t resist trying. My salad was delicate and precise, chunks and slices of rainbow colours arranged carefully on a clean white plate. The combination of flavours and textures had obviously been considered with each component cooked and prepared to perfection. The aesthetics of food is very important to me and the soup exceeded all expectations… it looked divine, a creamy pastel green colour (very on trend for this summer!), and comprised the freshest vegetables, sourced from Borough market.
Soon it was time for the main event, the moment I had been anticipating for so long. Greedy and eager to try all the varieties on offer we both chose the ‘Tasting of New York Sirloin’ a plate which serves three sirloin cuts:
– USDA PRime Black Angus, Creekstone Farms 4oz
– Casterbridge Angus, South West England 4 oz
– Australian Wagyu/ Black Angus, Darling Downs 2oz
Conversation ground to a halt as the food was placed down in front of us. It was a feast, a meat extravaganza, and an absolute dream come true. Wolfgang Puck’s steaks are cooked in a particular way: grilled over hard-wood and charcoal and then finished under a 1200-degree broiler to achieve a truly unique flavour and texture. The taste is insanely good with a crispy, slightly burnt caramelised outer layer/edge and a soft tender inside.
The meat was plainly and cleanly presented on a white plate – I appreciated the simplicity, focusing entirely on the food rather than fussiness. Choosing a favourite between the three was tricky, the richest and most luxurious was the Wagyu, flavoured intensely thanks to the way the fat marbles the meat throughout. The English was bold and juicy, an obvious high quality cut of meat, but it was the US meat that wowed me the most, an exceptionally soft and tender piece of meat was subtly flavoured and perfectly seasoned, instantly melting in the mouth.
Our table was crowded with condiments, sides and accompaniments all of the highest calibre. I must particularly mention the exemplary extra thin onion rings, sweet and crispy, incredibly yummy and dangerously moreish.
Full after the epic meal, we resisted the appealing puddings and skipped straight to tea and coffee which came speedily to our table only moments after ordering along with homemade warm minion chocolate chip cookies… yet another indulgent treat.
Wolfgang Puck has hit the jackpot with CUT. It is a restaurant that ticks every box and satisfies London’s ever growing appetite for sophisticated and sublime steak. Certainly the best steak I’ve eaten in London, Puck is the one to beat!
Visit the CUT website here for more information and to book.