THOROUGHLY MODERN MAN: Ballo, King’s Head Theatre

I must say I was hugely excited to receive the invitation to review again at the King’s Head, it being one of my favourite places to come and see what’s on offer.  This evening certainly did not disappoint. I was sceptical at the thought of an opera of Verdian proportions being done justice by the intimate settings of the King’s Head but with the stage being set wisely in thrust mode, the action managed to overcome the spatial limitations of its platform.

Now, if you have seen any of the publicity for this production, you will realise that it bears resemblance to a certain Swedish super-power home store.  Indeed, ‘Ballo’ is the famous Ikea’s retail rival in this version.  That is not to trivialise or undermine the storyline in any way; as all the drama, backbiting and tragedy that one would expect from Verdi is still very much present, just against a more humorous, light-hearted backdrop – kudos to Adam Spreadbury-Maher for striking this fine balance.  A healthy dose of Abba in the second act may have offended the sensibilities of some purists but an open mind will put paid to any such reactions – it certainly had the audience’s hips shaking and bottoms wiggling!

The roles have been double-cast; I was fortunate to catch the tragic lovers Riccardo and Amelia being portrayed by Edward Hughes and Becca Marriott respectively.  Hughes commanded the challenging score magnificently; sustaining repeated high B flats with impressive stamina and resonance.  Marriot’s athletic arias were performed with panache and intelligence, and the two had a lovely chemistry.  The casting surprise of the evening was the trouser role (Oscar) being sung by male coloratura soprano Martin Milnes.  This added great comedy and spark to the show, and if one had closed their eyes they never would have known the difference!  The greatest comic injection, however, came from Olivia Barry’s portrayal of the fortune-teller Ulrica.  She had the audience in stitches with her witty interpretation, and delivered the epic role with great control and a rich, velvety mezzo.

As ever, a theatre of this size limits the scope for orchestral accompaniment.  However, the lightning fingers of Ben Woodward more than compensated for this – he handled this tour de force of a score with great dexterity – top marks.

Ballo runs until 25 May – book tickets here.

Written by a Thoroughly Modern Man, Mark McCloskey.

Barber of Seville, ENO

Even after reading the synopsis twice the ridiculous narrative of Rossini’s famous Barber of Seville makes little sense. But let’s be honest people flock to see this opera for the magnificent music not for the story.

Having said that, the ENO’s revival is terribly funny and uses the nuances of the complicated tale to include hilariously entertaining episodes. Although the  production is not in modern dress, the modernised English lyrics are extremely clever and fit in perfectly with the comical operetta style.

Celebrating its 25th anniversary year, Jonathan Miller’s classic staging of Rossini’s masterpiece is back at the Coliseum, in my opinion better than ever. The petite cast work brilliantly together to present a seamless performance of music and drama, and revival director Peter Relton has managed to give a new lease of life to Miller’s original version.

The show starts slowly but soon gathers momentum. I was captivated throughout, my attention completely controlled by the characters on stage. Benedict Nelson is a witty and charismatic Figaro, and his voice is elegant and charming. My guest adored David Soar’s depiction of Don Basilio and we both loved Andrew Shore’s magnificently energetic and clever performance as Doctor Bartolo. However it is the leading lady who steals the show. Lucy Crowe sparkles as the coloratura diva, Rosina. Her voice soars and pierces the top stratospheric notes with staggering ease and impressive dexterity. Along with her natural acting ability and good looks, she is an absolute pleasure to watch.

Surprisingly for the first time I found the ENO orchestra a little sluggish under the command of Jaime Martin, a conductor I didn’t recognise. They did pick up the passion once the familiar arias swung into action. Visually the production is a joy, though we would have appreciated perhaps one more scene change. Costumes may be cumbersome for the cast but are worth the effort as they look gorgeous under the lights.

I am always interested in the ENO’s new compositions, but there is only so much tragedy us opera reviewers can cope with… in my opinion it is much more fun skipping home still singing the marvellous tunes of Rossini’s great comic masterpiece.

Continues until Sunday 17 March, book here.

Things to do in Budapest

Before visiting I knew little of Budapest’s twin city appeal. Dramatically divided by the Danube, Hungary’s beautiful capital offers a wealth of exciting sights and activities for visitors. Linked by the epic chain bridge Buda and Pest are very different areas to explore. Buda is a historic hub characterised by its amazing hills, and here you will find the most important tourist attractions. The retro Furnicular carts transport you up the hill to the Castle District where you can see the Royal Palace, Matthias Church and Fisherman’s Bastion. Pest is the younger and trendier side of the city where people go to work, shop and play. This area is action packed with creative opportunities and has much more of a buzz about it. We spent most of our time here eating, drinking, shopping and marvelling at the impressive buildings surrounding us. I would urge any Budapest guest to visit both sides of the city to experience a true flavour of the Hungarian way of life.
To Do
Szechenyi Baths: thermal baths are a unique aspect of Budapest and this venue is one of the most renowned. In the open air this picturesque pool soothes guests all year round. It is the largest of its kind in Europe and feels quite extraordinary to be in such a hot pool of blue water outside, especially when it is snowing around you!
Gellert Baths: The Gellert Baths are a traditional Hungarian Bath complex locted in the Gellert Hotel in Buda, along the Danube. It is open to the public, but hotel guests enjoy free admission. These baths are stunning and will leave you feeling refreshed and cleansed.
– Boat trip Danube: Even on a gloomy winters day The Legende one hour Boat Trip was worth doing. Offering an unrivalled view of the city on both sides, you will understand the history and culture of Budapest and see all the great architecture. Book here.
– Climb up to the top of the St Stephen’s Basilica (known as Budapest Cathedral), the largest Church in the city. We visited at sunset to see the whole city illuminated and glowing.
To See
Museum of Fine Arts: This huge regal building is hard to miss. We saw a lovely Cezanne exhibition when we visited in January… and it is always worth going along to see the permanent collection of Spanish masters and Venetian paintings.
House of Terror Museum: Sadly this much talked about museum was closed for refurbishment when I was in Budapest but I’ve heard the exhibition on the Holocaust is memorably affecting and a must see.
Opera: Enjoy a performance at the world famous Budapest State Opera House… though be warned you are unlikely to understand a word, Hungarian subtitles are not easy to translate.
To Eat
Ringcafe Burgers: Located on the main Andrassy Street Ringcafe is known to have the best burgers in town. The owner was recently in London sussing out the best on offer, returning to Budapest with a load of fresh new ideas. The menu has an extensive list of burger varieties, and they are delicious, with soft juicy meat and brilliant accompaniments.
Gundel: Famous for its fine brunches, this restaurant presents Hungarian food with a French twist. The Gundel pancakes are particularly popular amongst diners!
Onyx: This opulent fine restaurant is one of two Michelin starred establishments in Hungary. Chef Szabina Szullo artfully reinterprets Hungarian classics with precision and care. The food and wine are exquisite.
New York Cafe: Located in the Boscolo Hotel, this cafe has always been a favourite for locals and tourists in Budapest. The rich history and beautiful interior is more of a reason to visit than the food.
To Sleep
Boscolo: This epic hotel is indulgent and impressive both inside and out. The baroque rooms and suites are luxurious and the hotel also offers wonderful spa and fitness facilities.
Four Seasons: A deluxe five star palace, the Gresham Four Seasons is fit for a king/queen. Architecturally amazing and immaculately designed, the Danube facing suites are arguably the most desirable rooms in the city.
With fantastic food, sights and culture, I find it bizarre that Budapest is not a more popular destination for European weekends away. If you are looking for a cheap and memorable trip abroad, book flights to Hungary immediately.
Many thanks to the Budapest Tourist Board for all their help with this trip. More information here.