Tag Archives: Marrakech

La Cour des Lions, Es Saadi Palace, Marrakech

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We were unsure what to expect from La Cour des Lions, the luxurious restaurant situated on the top floor of the Es Saadi Palace. It was our final night of our mini Moroccan break and we were excited about the prospect of enjoying Es Saadi’s fine dining experience.

Es Saadi Palace has several restaurants on offer to guests and visitors. La Cour des Lions is worth visiting even if you’re not staying in the hotel. The sophisticated eatery offers French inspired Moroccan cuisine, creative dishes conjured up by genius head chef, Sebastien Bontour. We dressed up specially for the occasion and wandered up at 9pm. The dining room is enthralling with intricate sculpted plaster and atmospheric lanterns; the stylish design is grand yet the arches give a cosy feel. From the window you see breathtaking views of the gardens and Atlas Mountains beyond. It is opulent but avoids being ostentatious. In one corner a musician sits on a leather cushion strumming gently, looking pensive and providing a unique soundtrack for the evening.

The atmosphere is quiet but enthused, with guests chatting in hushed voices and laughing over glasses of wine. Fresh bread arrived with our choice of white Medallion wine, served blissfully cold. The bread was soft and doughy but it was the butter I found particularly exciting, speckled throughout with salty dried herbs it was an exquisite taste.

The menu is split into two sections: traditional Moroccan on the left and the wildly creative French-Moroccan dishes on the right. You can mix and match choices, without being limited to one list. We had tried various renditions of typical Moroccan cuisine throughout the holiday so tonight we were very intrigued by the alluring French inspired creations.

The dishes are described simply on the menu – we had no idea what would arrive in front of us. Plates of fancy arrangements, intricate and adventurous in taste and presentation. It was a sight to behold and we spent several minutes investigating each part of the food before tucking into the artistry! Addicted to Moroccan pastries, I chose the assortment of Pastillas to start, served on a bed of crunchy salad. There were three varieties: minced lamb, chicken and tomato, I preferred the lamb which was wonderfully fragrant and spiced in light, crispy layers of pastry. My friend enjoyed her Giant marinated and breadcrumbed prawn, however the accompanying dishes were a little odd with flavours including grapefruit, almond and strawberry.

The mains were even more elaborate and each plate contained a plethora of components. There is no doubt that the presentation here is beautiful though whether these intricacies were for show or taste I was not always sure. For main I opted for the rich ensemble of beef, cooked three ways. Fresh steak tartare presented in a glass, a mini beef fillet cooked in butter and tagine-style beef breadcrumbed and gently fried. Each variant was carefully prepared and presented with delicious additions like a huge potato chip and sweet warm gravy! The fillet was my favourite – a high quality cut of meat that was tender and flavoured with herby, peppery marinade. My friend tried the Monkfish… there were some slightly bizarre pairings here, a small strawberry smoothie shot was yet again presented alongside the fish, very strange and not altogether enjoyable! It was a fine piece of fish though, meaty and fresh however the serving was again far too big.

The desserts were a whirlwind of excitement. Different dishes are available according to theme: chocolate, caramel, vanilla, chocolate, red fruits. Each flavour group comes as a set of three mini puddings, all created around the theme. It was an absolute feast, and though we savoured every saccharine mouthful, it was enough to feed several! My vanilla themed trio was innovative and thrilling, each mouthful tasted different, constructed with endless detailing. I loved my vanilla macaroon, light and airy with a strong essence of vanilla bean. My friend chose the devilish chocolate group, strongly recommended by our eager waiter. The glass of chocolate and passion fruit was a particular highlight, a lovely combination of sweet and tangy flavours.

At La Cour des Lions tradition meets luxury. Much like the hotel, there is a real emphasis on artistic creation and design. Bontour has developed a menu which is both aesthetically extravagant and gastronomically exciting.

Visit the La Cour des Lions website here for more information.

Es Saadi Palace, Marrakech

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Walking into the Es Saadi Palace, I got a sudden rush of that ‘little fish in a big pond’ feeling. The grandeur and scale of the epic entrance hall is quite spectacular and I couldn’t help but stand and stare at my surroundings. Despite its size Es Saadi Palace is an independent family run hotel, and guests are often welcomed personally to the hotel by the owners. It is a unique place, the attention to detail and design is quite staggering. After a lengthy tour round the Palace, private villas and grounds, I can promise that no two rooms are the same, each has its own character and charm.

In the main entrance hall a musician strums gently soothing the guests after their journey. We sipped fresh mint tea and gobbled the light Moroccan pastries they offered us. Our suite was on the first floor only moments up from the reception area and was lavish and luxurious with plush velvety sofas, an ample sized desk, huge TV and romantic four poster King sized bed. Along our corridor we had a separate dressing room (!) and a deluxe bathroom with a Jacuzzi bath, two marble sinks, toilet room and a drenching power shower. The Es Saadi toiletries were light and refreshing, and seem to be replaced daily as we used it up. At the front of the room our private balcony overlooked the flourishing green gardens which must be regularly watered as the dry heat saps all the energy. When observed closer, every detail in the room had carefully been chosen for its authentic Moroccan feel and beauty…. our door was intricately hand-painted and the walls were covered in traditional artworks.

We were amazed by the assortment of villas in the grounds each with an entirely different theme. They come in all different sizes, suitable for any number of guests, a romantic getaway or a big party abroad. You name it and Es Saadi will make it possible. Each villa showcases local artisan Moroccan furniture and décor, some taking enormous time and energy to complete and perfect. When we looked round on our tour, it was obvious how proud the extended Es Saadi family of staff are about this magical, culturally inspiring establishment… they work hard to ensure their guests fall in love with the place too.

Glowing and glistening outside is the 2400sqm pool – the largest in the city. Picturesque and cooling, the hotel guests languidly hang out here during the day, a little bar is situated in the centre for those in need of a thirst-quenching cocktail! We spent a lovely few hours here, sleepy in the breezy air and sipping mojitos while relishing the rare opportunity to read our books. The flowery gardens are an oasis, a sanctuary and the perfect place to enjoy an afternoon stroll or early morning run. After a stifling visit to the souks, the gardens feel calming and clean.

I was very impressed with the huge collection of local art and craft which is found all over the hotel. The current exhibition has intrigued visitors so much, they have extended its finishing date by months. We had a brief look round at the vibrant, passionate work – very enthusiastic, lively and expressive art that suits the hotel’s character.

Es Saadi Palace has numerous bars, restaurants and clubs to suit every palate and preference, and there is even a snazzy casino as part of the resort. The Spa at the Palace was one of the main attractions for me, a refuge for relaxation and revitalisation. The facilities are endless. There are plenty of treatment rooms to indulge in massages, facials and other treatments. And this spa even has a Dior Institute where bespoke skin and body treatments are available for guests or outside visitors. Built around a handsome 100 year old eucalyptus tree, it is certainly not a conventional shape… but this only adds to its charm. Here we spent a few hours nourishing our bodies with the detox programme… which consisted of visiting different hot and cold, steamy and icy rooms to stimulate and refresh our bodies. The hydrotherapy pool ensures visitors maximum release and relaxation, special results driven technology which actually works. On the top level a shaded terrace is available for hotel guests to enjoy, an enchanting area where all your worries will drift away. Downstairs there is an organic restaurant serving delicious vegetarian produce from the hotel’s own farm and gluten-free bread to accompany.

Breakfast at Es Saadi consists of a colourful buffet: an array of fruit, cakes, pastries, meat and cheese, and a hot counter offers cooked breakfast for those who desire it. Everything tasted divine and we indulged trying a bit of everything… freshly squeezed orange juice, strong brewed filter coffee, and an assortment of cakes. I loved the unique bright pink raspberry almond cakes that tasted a little like madeleines, I definitely ate a few too many!

I can imagine many guests at Es Saadi don’t leave the gates of the hotel for the whole holiday, and I can see why… this Palace has everything you need to live and feel like a princess. But if you do venture out, the luxurious accommodation and facilities feel even better when you get home to your room.

Visit the Es Saadi Palace website here for more information and to book.

Riad Farnatchi, Marrakech

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I would like to retire now and move to Riad Farnatchi in Morocco. This luxurious 5 star boutique hotel is unusually located right in the very heart of the busy Medina, and is perhaps the most memorable place I have ever stayed. We were picked up from the airport and whisked off through the energetic city, our car fighting its way through the vocal street sellers, stopping in the midst of the souks, not a hotel in sight. We were summoned to exit the car and there we continued our journey on foot, our heavy bags carried in front of us by a weary man on a bicycle. Five minutes walking down narrow side-alleys and we reached a large unpromising wooden door, little did we know of the oasis inside.

We were warmly greeted, offered cooling flannels and given glasses of a delicious sugary mint drink, not dissimilar to a mojito. Jonathan Wix, an English hotelier bought the property nine years ago as a family home but when it was not used as much as they’d intended, he turned the beautiful Riad into a magical hotel only moments away from the main square. The hotel is now managed by his son, James Wix. We met with the very welcoming and smiley Jonathan who took us on a tour of the hotel explaining the intention and purpose for each room. The interiors are stunning – all set out immaculately and thoughtfully with original meaningful Moroccan artefacts and intriguing artworks. In the centre of the hotel, a spectacular courtyard offers a small pool for cooling down in the summer heat while enjoying a glass of freshly squeezed orange juice.

Our suite upstairs was spectacular, a heavenly place to rest your head and relax. Every amenity was in place and the décor royal and ravishing, so thoughtfully arranged, we couldn’t stop ooh-ing and aah-ing dashing round the room spotting new exciting details. On our bed we were given authentic Moroccan cloth outfits with traditional Fez hats, trying them on amused us for quite a while! Little jars contained sweet cakes and snacks, little delicacies to nibble on while we watched a film in the evening. Our spacious room was filled with locally sourced carpets, mirrors and lamps, all chosen to make visitors feel at home and to exhibit the splendour of Marrakech’s artisan creativity. Every room is different with a unique character and charm. Our room had the most luxurious en-suite bathroom, with a huge stone bath and epic rain shower filled with every variety of Molten Brown toiletry you could ever need.

We were treated to authentic Hammams, a typical Moroccan scrub to exfoliate and refresh your skin. Most hotels have a steam room for this treatment and we were enthralled by the experience. Lying in just bikinis in a steamy stone room a women scrubbed our bodies vigorously and drenched us in warm water… it was certainly an experience, and unlike anything I’ve tried before!

After a day exploring the stiflingly hot souks, we were exhausted and ready for a lazy evening meal. Farnatchi encourages you to dine wherever you like, be that in the comfort of your own room, in the opulent dining room, on the breezy roof terrace or anywhere else you desire. We chose to eat in the courtyard where ice cold mojitos were delivered and we ate listening to the sound of the birds. The food at Farnatchi is outstanding, with a menu of authentic Moroccan favourites prepared and cooked to the highest quality. We tried to choose the most typical and popular dishes recommended by the hotel. To start we ate very tasty briouates (crispy pastry triangles filled with minced beef) and Pastilla (pigeon, cinnamon and almonds wrapped in thin pastry). Both were sweet and scrumptious, with a lovely nutty texture. The food is presented simply with a real emphasis on flavour and taste. For main course we shared the Lamb Tangia and Beef and Eggplant Tagine served with a plate of cooked vegetables. The Beef Tagine was our favourite, tender intensely flavoured meat with soft and juicy aubergine in a carefully spiced sauce. The lamb was also divine, a high quality piece of meat slow cooked with spice and a hint of lemon. We had Medallion Moroccan white wine which perfectly accompanied the meal and to finish some mint tea and sweet pastries.

We retired upstairs taking out tea with us and slumped into the huge bed sleeping soundly in our air conditioned room till morning. Then once again it was time to decide where to eat. We headed up to the roof, opting to eat on the terrace overlooking the city. We received a wonderful spread of breakfast goodies: fresh orange juice and coffee, sweet yoghurt and fruit and homemade pancakes with butter and jam. It was nice to not have to choose breakfast, instead the food just arrived, fresh and healthy. Our pending departure was devastating, neither of us wanted to leave this heavenly Riad.

The Wix family’s attitude is ‘anything is possible, there is no no,’ a theory we truly understood after staying at the Riad Farnatchi. The hotel is luxurious but relaxed and the attentive and gracious staff ensure your stay is perfect. Our night here was unforgettable in every way, a very special Riad, a secret in the centre of the city.

Visit the Riad Farnatchi website here, and visit as soon as possible!