Tag Archives: gastropub

Hand and Flowers, Marlow

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After thirteen months of waiting, the special Saturday finally arrived to claim our table at Hand and Flowers. This charming gastropub in Marlow has received phenomenal accolades, the only venue of its kind to be awarded two Michelin stars. Considering the menu features simple British classics like fish and chips, it is an impressive feat for chef Tom Kerridge.

I am a great fan of Kerridge’s enthusiastic food and wine programme, where he takes to the stove with many of London’s most notable chefs. Winning Michelin stars was never his main ambition but his food has been recognised thanks to his dedication and natural talent for creating blissfully delicious comfort food. After stints in various kitchens, Tom and his wife Beth opened Hand and Flowers in 2005 and he recently took over the Coach pub down the road as a second, more casual venue.

We arrived early and sat in the cosy bar area, sipping on locally produced Perry whilst greedily perusing the menu. After a year of anticipation, I felt under great pressure to choose the best dishes on the menu. We followed the waitress through the narrow corridor to our corner table. The interior is decorated in a farmhouse chic style with mementos on the walls that indicate the chef’s jovial character. I felt like I was in the middle of the countryside, in from the cold and ready to tuck in to an indulgent meal.

Rustic bread and unsalted butter arrived, along with tiny crispy whitebait poking out of a homemade newspaper cone. The non-fish eaters were offered thimble sized bowls of piccalilli salad. The starters demonstrate Kerridge’s ability to elevate basic ingredients to create sophisticated dishes with just a few simple flavours. Potato “Risotto” with Pied de Mouton mushrooms and samphire was the perfect example of an original but humble dish, woody mushrooms, a hint of sage and a flawlessly executed potato invention. Crispy pig’s head with spiced date puree, apple, plum and pancetta was a boy’s starter with bold and rich flavour pairings. I stole several mouthfuls and enjoyed the tenderness of the softened pork covered in an irresistibly crispy crumb coat. I chose the dainty Roast English Onion Tart with Etuve Alliums, smoked butter and salt cured pork, it was a sensation of different textures, most exciting was the pile of crispy onion shards on top.

My dad chose a unique Christian Lauverjat Moulin des Vrilleres rose Sancerre – we are all still dreaming about it, light and smooth and the prettiest pale salmon colour. Despite the big flavours of our meat course, the versatile wine suited every plate. These dishes were a triumph, I’ve never seen so many happy customers round one table. The renowned Hand and Flowers fish and chips was a hit, the lightest Whiting coated in a non-oily crispy shell and served with the famous triple-fried chips, that did not disappoint. I had been alerted that the Slow Cooked Duck Breast is must-try, accompanied by Savoy cabbage, Duck Fat chips and gravy. The duck was silky smooth with almost a liver-like texture, perhaps from the sous-vide (water bath) method of cooking. The duck fat chips were richer and even more tasty than the standard chips.

For an utterly indulgent main the Fillet of Stokes Marsh Beef with Bearnaise sauce was a wise choice. A chunky compact piece of meat, garnished with butter and a skinny onion ring it was one of the very best steaks I have ever tasted. Again the meat was of the highest quality and cooked sensitively to ensure the best flavour and texture. I ordered the Tenderloin of Wiltshire Pork which was the only slightly disappointing dish, the meat was an unattractive shape and looked clumsy on the plate. Accompanied by pickled mustard leaf, malt glazed cheek, garlic sausage and potato dauphine, there were plenty of other things to enjoy on the plate, this assortment was more exciting and enjoyable that the main event.

We found the service a little hit and miss, and one slightly grumpy waiter (who had clearly cut his hand) wore a very unappealing blue plastic glove to serve the food. Considering the status of the restaurant and the length of the waiting list I expected the staff to be jollier!

Desserts were thankfully light and refreshing. Numerous recommendations led two members of our party to order the Bitter Orange Souffle with sweet toast crumb, cardamom ice cream and citrus syrup. The soufflé was the perfect light melt in the mouth texture and served with a delicious spicy ice cream, though we thought the intense citrus syrup was an unnecessary addition. I loved my pretty in pink Tonka bean panna cotta with poached rhubarb, ginger wine jelly and rhubarb sorbet. The wonderfully complex flavours worked well together, and in particular the miniature meringues and fuchsia, fruity sorbet was divine. The Hand and Flowers chocolate and ale cake with salted caramel and muscovado ice cream was an intriguing and successful pudding, delicately presented but with powerful flavours, served with a shot of ale.

Hand and Flowers has the perfect balance: inspired and delicious food and a relaxed and enjoyable atmosphere. You don’t need to worry about dress code and yet the sophisticated dining experience will make the meal feel special. Outstanding fine dining with chips on the side… this restaurant combines the best of both worlds.

More information and book a table for 2016 here: www.thehandandflowers.co.uk

The Wild Rabbit restaurant, Oxfordshire

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The Cotswolds is an idyllic escape for Londoners in search of fresh air and lush countryside. This upmarket area near Oxford is one of the most popular short break UK destinations for busy city residents and has numerous quaint accommodation options and food establishments to experience. The Wild Rabbit is one of the most desirable places to stay and dine in the Cotswolds, a luxuriously rustic and characterful neighbourhood pub / restaurant with charming bedrooms, all tucked away in the tranquil village of Kingham.

The Wild Rabbit opened in September 2013 after the 1750 building underwent extensive restoration and renovation. The traditional pub has a cosy and welcoming feel, with delightful rabbit related memorabilia and taxidermy decorating the ground floor dining rooms. The nearby twelve bedrooms are individually furnished and designed with the utmost attention to detail, with simple indulgences adding extra comfort.

After an easy drive from London, we settled at a window table for Saturday lunch in the Wild Rabbit dining room, a stylish farmhouse room with modest wooden furniture, exposed brickwork and potted herb plants at each table. Freshly made bread, thinly shaved salami and churned butter arrived to cater to our growing appetites. A raspberry and white peach Bellini was a delightful aperitif.

The menu takes advantage of local produce and is a carefully curated list of British inspired recipes which changes with the seasons. To start I highly recommend the crisp Pig’s head croquette with artichoke and basil vinaigrette, this dense rectangle of tender meat is covered in a salty, crispy layer and served with a fresh colourful salad. Open ravioli of goat’s cheese and confit tomato with grilled vegetable sauce antiboise is a lovely summery vegetarian option, both filling and healthy.

The main course showcases the best British meat on offer, bold brilliant flavours with the highest quality components. My pork tenderloin with toffee apple puree, confit belly, mustard and onions was an exquisite combination of sweet caramel and rich meaty flavours, arranged immaculately on the plate with an addictive pork gravy. Guests can also choose from the Josper Grill steaks, all served with hand-cut chips and salad. Dry aged 12oz sirloin steak on the bone was an impressive hunk of meat, with a lightly charred edge, tender and juicy inside. Paired with the wonderfully thick and yellow Bearnaise sauce and giant chunky chips it was an utterly indulgent treat, of which every mouthful was savoured. If you can fit it in, the buttery mashed potato is unmissable.

The wine list features environmentally friendly wine from small wineries. I tried a delicious rose with my meal. The dessert list featured all my favourite sweet things. The Pistachio soufflé with cherry ice-cream and almond crème Anglaise was beautiful, a bouncy pale green masterpiece collapsing as the hot creamy sauce was poured over it. The soufflé, a notoriously challenging dessert to make was the perfect consistency and tasted absolutely divine. For something richer, chocolate lovers will enjoy the rich mousse with salted caramel ice cream.

The Wild Rabbit is the best kept secret in the Cotswolds, but good news travels fast, so now you’ll have to be patient with the rest of the waiting list for a chance to experience these enchanting rooms and fine food. I can assure you it is worth waiting for.

More information and book here: www.thewildrabbit.co.uk

The Grazing Goat, Marble Arch

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It was pouring with rain, and even the short walk from Marble Arch tube station to New Quebec Street felt like an endurance test. I was soaked from head to toe, ballet shoes ruined and hairstyle wrecked. The Grazing Goat shone on the grey dreary street. As the name suggests, this is a warming country-style pub, but offers more than just good grub, with eight rooms for staying guests.

Our superior room on the top floor was heavenly, a homely refuge, the perfect escape from rain and chill. With warm wooden furniture and floorboards, the room felt instantly comforting to step foot in. A giant bed dominated the room, covered in a Green Grove Weavers throw and finished with plump pillows. There were lovely little features everywhere: retro books to read; sweeties to devour; writing materials for jotting down ideas; thoughtfully-chosen magazines; a baby armchair for relaxing; and a mini collection of drinks including tea pigs. The ensuite bathroom with roll-top tub was grand and sophisticated. In the morning, light poured in through the large window, and quaint fish-themed artwork hung on the walls. Alongside the luxurious centrepiece bath there was a powerful shower, large mirror and Aesop toiletries.

Rather than braving the weather, we dined in the first floor restaurant at the Grazing Goat. On the ground floor the pub is for walk-ins, while the first floor is bookings only and is more refined. Just as you’d expect, the food offered here is of an inventive gastropub style. We ordered glasses of fresh apple and mint juice while we sussed out the menu. There is lot on offer but the Grazing Goat restaurant is known for its rotisserie and grill, so we limited ourselves to this section of the menu. The Grilled Old Spot pork chop was hearty and delicious, topped with a dollop of homemade apple sauce and toothbreakingly crunchy crackling. The 35 day dry-aged Ashbridge Farm beef fillet was a fine cut of meat, but arrived slightly overcooked. The sauces and sides caused further conundrum, there are so many, all sounding unmissable. We eventually settled for garlic and rosemary mash, chunky chips, sweet potato fries and bacon aioli, sautéed savoy cabbage with caramelised onion and pancetta, purple sprouting brocolli with lemon butter, and potato dauphinoise – not quite the full collection, but embarrassingly, the majority. Finally we chose the red wine jus and peppercorn sauce to accompany our meats. The sauces were both very good; of the sides we favoured the cabbage combination and the sweet potato fries. Please believe me when I say we didn’t finish it all! From the pudding menu I’d recommend the chocolate and sea salt caramel shortbread, which is served with peanut mousse and chocolate sorbet. An ideal sweet mouthful to finish off the meal.

After a sound night’s sleep, I awoke expecting to hear a cockerel call: it really does feel so much like the countryside at the Grazing Goat. We ate breakfast on the ground floor, the pub now having been transformed into a civilised, brasserie-style dining room. The breakfast dishes were surprisingly inventive – Bath pig chorizo sausage bubble and squeak, Truffle and chive scrambled egg and Cinnamon spiced plum and fig porridge. As an avocado lover I chose the Fivemiletown goat’s cheese, slow roasted tomatoes and avocado on toasted rye bread, while my friend ordered Buttermilk pancakes with bacon and maple syrup. The pancakes were light and fluffy, and my avocado dish was fresh and beautifully presented.

The Grazing Goat is a hidden treasure in the centre of London. For those who do not have the time to take a trip to the countryside, The Grazing Goat provides a central alternative.

More information and book here: www.thegrazinggoat.co.uk