The Clove Club, Shoreditch Town Hall

Whenever I see a new restaurant opening in London I am keen to get a table and suss out its food and friendliness. I was rather stunned in this case by the lofty and superior tone of the guys at The Clove Club. Annoyingly I was still desperate to try the food so I swallowed my pride and booked a table at this heavily hyped restaurant in Shoreditch Town Hall.

This new venture is a family affair, the Clove Club brothers are keen to present inventive and exciting cuisine in a laid back and handsomely historic environment. They have certainly achieved this – the food pushes boundaries whilst the restaurant oozes a charming old-fashioned elegance.

On a Saturday lunchtime we had a choice of two menus: the tasting menu, or the lunch option (snacks and three courses for £35). We opted for the set lunch preferring the selection and price!

While some of the staff were a little sullen, our waitress was kind and friendly offering us valuable advice.  Between the two of us we tried the whole menu.

Snacks:
Radishes, Black Sesame & Gochuchang
Crispy Chicken Feet & Devilled Spices
Violet Artichoke & Cod’s Roe

Starters:
Tamworth Pork Cheek, Black Pudding, Sweetcorn & Bobby Beans
Or
Flame Grilled Mackerel Tartare, Pickled Grapes & English Mustard

Mains:
Thornback Ray, Cauliflower, Tarragon & Elderberry Capers
Or
Roast Mallard, Baked Pumpkin, Juniper & Turnip Tops

Desserts:
Autumn Berries, Ewe’s Milk Mousse, Beremeal & Milk Crisps
Or
Poached William Pear, Chestnut Cream & Honey Granita

We sipped cocktails as the canapé-like snacks arrived promptly. My unlikely favourite was the chicken feet, ultra light and crispy with a moreish salty flavour. Of the starters, the cold, raw mackerel wasn’t a massive success… pickled grapes and mustard accentuated the strange flavour. The pork was delicate and delicious, I have never been brave enough to try black pudding before but must admit it complemented the meat and vegetables perfectly.

The ray was amazingly fine and very appealing dressed in herbs. My duck was tender and juicy, coated in a sumptuous sauce and served with interesting vegetables, a very successful dish I thought.

The desserts were light and refreshing. I particularly liked the warm berry compote with dollops of mousse and contrasting milk crisps, every mouthful was different.

We thoroughly enjoyed lunch at Clove Club even though I arrived sceptical. I feel strongly that as the London restaurant scene becomes more and more lucrative and competitive, an arrogant and elitist attitude is not acceptable. Clove Club is an example of fine food but foul attitude, hopefully if you visit you will only experience the former.

More information, and book here: thecloveclub.com

Seven Park Place at St James’s Hotel and Club

For me, St James’s Hotel and Club is the ultimate hidden gem. Located down Park Place, minutes away from Green Park station and yet completely secluded, it is the perfect city retreat. Lavishly decorated and with luxurious amenities, there is everything you need to relax – however what I find particularly alluring about this boutique property is the undeniably magnificent art collection and the spectacular Michelin starred restaurant, Seven Park Place by William Drabble.

When I went along to the restaurant on a Tuesday lunchtime I was greeted warmly by staff and taken through to the cosy dining room. With only 26 covers, the restaurant is naturally very intimate… couples sat huddled and business meetings were progressing over pretty plates of food, it is a restaurant for every occasion. William Drabble’s menu is precise and brief, which I was thankful for, a selection of French inspired dishes, all using the best seasonal British produce on offer.

There is a lunch menu available (£25.50 for two courses, £29.50 for three) or a longer a la carte which features more elaborate dishes. Interestingly I noticed a lack of vegetarian options, every dish contains either fish or meat… apparently the kitchen can whip up a veggie recipe if you specifically require it. We chose the Fillet of red mullet with garlic puree, red wine reduction, croustade of goat cheese, confit tomato and basil and the Pot roast quail with crispy veal sweetbreads, foie gras, orange and hazelnut dressing. The red mullet was absolutely exquisite, a carefully prepared piece of the freshest fish with a delicate array of flavours. The warm quail was perfectly cooked and paired with a tangy cold salad and a rich slice of foie gras… it was an unusual mix of exotic and traditional flavours. To accompany our starters the sommelier kindly picked out two superior white wines, listening to our preferences and bringing immaculate choices to complement the food we had ordered.

Keen to try the favourites, I opted for Drabble’s speciality for my main course, Assiette of Lune Valley lamb with broad beans and basil. It was a triumph, one of the best dishes I’ve ever tried… and I couldn’t resist licking my cutlery for every last drop of sauce. The three cuts of lamb are cooked in different ways, each mouthful was better than the last… crispy, caramelised skin on tender and juicy meat. The plump broad beans, basil and creamed potato added a contrasting freshness to the recipe. Honey glazed pigeon royal with sweetcorn and Madeira jus was spectacular too, rich red meat enhanced by the rich wine gravy. The sweetcorn was a strange but successful addition to the dish, and added a bit of satisfying crunch.

Before dessert we were treated to a palate cleanser: red fruits with sorbet and meringue, a refreshing and vibrant mini course. For real puddings we went with our waiter’s recommendations… Peach with lemon verbena, white chocolate and yoghurt cream, roast hazelnuts and lemon sorbet and the Black cherry mousse with marinated cherries and dark chocolate. They could not have been more different: the peaches felt healthy and I was appreciative of a light and invigorating dessert. The chocolate and cherry combination worked brilliantly, a surprising airy sponge with a fabulously thick chocolate mousse.

It was interesting to overhear nearby tables praising the flawless food and impeccable service. I smiled to myself in total agreement, Seven Park Place is a very special restaurant and William Drabble’s culinary creations are quite spectacular.

More information and book here: www.stjameshotelandclub.com

Baku restaurant, Knightsbridge


The food scene in Baku is very traditional and casual… no jackets are required and there certainly aren’t any amuse-bouches or petits fours, instead the table is filled with authentic homemade dishes like minced lamb leela kebabs, smoked aubergine salad and thick slices of bread. Baku restaurant in London is completely different in style and feel to what we experienced in Azerbaijan, but is still excellent offering the flavour and ideas of Baku just in a much smarter setting.

Centrally located on Sloane Street, it is inevitable that this restaurant would be swanky and stylish. With the Conde Nast publication Baku (by editor Leyla Aliyeva) at the door, guests are welcomed gracefully into this sophisticated venue. The restaurant is on the first floor, the swish of shopping bags at street level are left behind as you enter a world of culinary delights. Via a cool glass staircase you find a comfy plush bar decorated in warm woody tones.

Food is based on Azeri classics with a twist of contemporary flair and innovation from the chef, making it more approachable and appealing to all tastes. The menu is pricey but I can’t fault the dishes we tried:

Gutab 3 ways: stuffed pancakes with minced lamb, herbs and pumpkin £7.50

Grilled hand dived Scottish scallops  £11.50

Crispy squid with chilli and spring onion with sweet chilli sauce £7.00

A trio of starters rich in flavour and blissfully fresh, every mouthful encouraged another! Stuffed pancakes were the Azeri classic here, neatly wrapped parcels of contrasting stuffings.

Mixed kebab: lamb chop, beef tika, lamb tika, lamb Lyula and country chicken. £27.50

Honey glazed duck breast and pickled kumquat £18.50

Grilled rib eye with sesame soy and sumac mash £24.50

Spicy Aubergine with cashew nut £4.00

It was a feast, far too much to finish and yet I’m so glad I tried it all. Spicy Aubergine was an unexpected delight, cut roughly, cooked to perfection and coated in the most scrumptious sweet nutty sauce. The meat was of the finest quality, juicy and well seasoned. Better than any food we tasted in Azerbaijan, but cleverly using the ingredients and recipes for which Azeri cuisine is known.

Desserts were a treat: vanilla pannacotta with saffron poached pear, smoked white chocolate mousse and chocolate fondant… they all sound hideously sweet but were in fact well balanced in taste and immaculately presented.

Cocktails were exemplary, honestly some of the best I’ve tried in London. Innovative but classic, the best was The Lale Flower Club (named after the beautiful Azerbaijani flower, made from pine-infused Beefeater gin, Galliano l’Authentico liqueur shaken with lemon sherbet and homemade raspberry and rose petal sugar… pink, pretty and delicious.

Food here is very pricey, but you’d expect that from a restaurant on Sloane Street, in my opinion the food is definitely worth splashing out on.

The five star international hotels setting up shop in Baku would benefit enormously from an eatery of this calibre. The only restaurant offering the taste of Azerbaijan in London, they bravely put Baku on the map. Hopefully as Baku grows as a tourist destination this restaurant will too.

Baku also offers a bar and club on the other floors… if you are interested in art it is well worth visiting the temporary exhibition downstairs in the club featuring popular contemporary artists like Tracey Emin.

More information on Baku restaurant here.

www.bakulondon.com