Barbara Hepworth, Tate Britain

Barbara Hepwoth Tate Britain

Weekends in July in London tend to be hectic and hot, and during this touristy time it can be a struggle to find pleasant things to do in the city. Tate Modern is overcrowded with keen to be cultured visitors whereas TateBritain seems to be left for Londoners to enjoy. When I visited last weekend it was a perfectly cool and serene place to spend time.

This landmark museum is currently showing a collection of Barbara Hepworth’s works. Many associate this influential artist with Cornwall, which is where I first remember seeing her sensual and smooth sculptures. The exhibition is displayed chronologically – showcasing her evolving style and use of different materials, changing organically as she moved through different periods of her life.

Most touching are the works which indicate the importance of a particular relationship, the small mother and child abstract sculptures that fit together so lovingly, or her use of her husband artist Ben Nicholson’s paint in her stringed, coloured works. Her treatment of wood is like nobody else’s, she soothes and cares for it, manipulates it into an expressive and vital figure or object.

Clearly the Cornish countryside and coast affected her work enormously. Some of the circular sculptures echo the rock formations and primitive earthworks found in Cornwall while others just possess a peace and serenity reminiscent of the land and water. I am not much of a fan of the final room which displays some of her more imposing, almost aggressive sculptures, designed for outdoor display. The jagged edges are harsh and slightly disconcerting after the calm of the earlier works

Barbara Hepworth is one of the leading sculptors of the 20th century but this exhibition is quiet and understated, a calm and beautiful presentation of her timeless art.

Exhibition continues until 25 October, more information here.

***My new travel book, CORNWALL by Weekend Journals is available to order here. Use the code TMM10 to get 10% off.***

A Return Trip to The Scarlet, Cornwall

I often get asked by dithering lovebirds where I would recommend going for a romantic weekend away in England. I have no better suggestion than Cornwall. Easily accessible by train with almost exotic beaches and wonderful rugged landscapes, it is a relaxing and calm escape from busy city life.

A few weeks ago I visited the Scarlet Hotel in Cornwall for the second time. When I first stayed in 2011, I was wowed by the luxurious eco design, natural yet indulgent environment and immaculate service, and was prepared to be less impressed second time round. Yet, stepping inside the serene Scarlet entrance I felt my heartbeat slow, my breathing regulate and my muscles relax, it was just as wonderful as before and I felt overwhelmed with happiness to be back.

After brief tour of the gorgeous facilities, we were dropped off at the spa, an ideal place for couples to truly unwind. We soaked for thirty minutes in the soothing cliff-edge hot tub with a glass of bubbly and admired the awe-inspiring views of the ocean. In the outdoor area there is also a natural pool for keen swimmers, though we favoured the warmer inside area and collapsed on the beanbags in the quiet relaxation room. Before my treatment I was asked to fill out an intriguing Ayurvedic form, illustrating my body and personality type; Vata, Pitta or Kapha. My therapist was gentle and friendly and asked me a few questions to establish where the stress and tension may be located, she then devised a completely bespoke combination of facial and massage to suits my needs. In line with the Ayurvedic approach, the Scarlet spa is very zen, with a muted colour scheme and cocoon-like pods for treatments. I felt sleepy immediately as I sunk into the warm bed surrounded in draped material and let my worries melt away.

The isolated location of the Scarlet means the spa is a popular part of the hotel. I had to fight for my space in the indoor pool, and the relaxation room was full of dressing-gowned guests! There are other pleasant rooms to rest and read, enjoy a cup of tea or play a game of pool. After a stint at the spa we retired to our room, trying out the giant bath, natural toiletries (Rosemary and Bergamot by St Kitts) and gazing out from the little balcony. We enjoyed one of the ‘generous rooms’ with an open plan bathroom with a luxuriously large bath, and separate wet room with a frosted glass door. The furniture is natural – warm wooden tables and soft grey chairs. The bed was wonderfully comfortable, the lighting subtle with numerous settings so you can ensure it is exactly as you wish.

The Scarlet is a hotel for foodies, the culinary offerings here are both health-conscious and indulgent. We were treated to dinner and breakfast in the sea-facing dining room. Chef Tom Hunter is thoughtful and inventive with an emphasis on seasonal Cornish produce, the dinner menu changes daily. Three courses cost £42.50 and there is a lovely variety to choose from. To preserve my appetite, I opted for a warm salad of chargrilled vegetables with westcomb ricotta cheese, heritage tomatoes and gremolata, a vibrant, colourful and healthy dish. My guest chose a more comforting bowl of Pappardelle pasta with roast crown prince squash and old Winchester, it was simple and brilliantly tasty.

Main courses were regal in their presentation. Loin of Dexter beef with braised ox cheek, bone marrow crust, dauphinoise potato and rainbow carrots was a delicious dish, the top meat drizzled with rich sauce and complemented by the lovely vegetables. For poultry fans, the Cornish chicken breast is a must, served with confit leg ravioli, honey glazed parsnips, chard and pearl barley, it is a fantastic combination of textures and flavours. Naturally the plate was scraped clean within minutes.

Our dessert choice was a no-brainer… we shared the White chocolate mousse with honeycomb, raspberries, pistachio cake and natural yoghurt sorbet. It was spectacular, the perfect spherical honeycomb ball filled with sweet silky white mousse and balanced with the red fruit and nutty cake cubes.

We woke, later than usual, with the blessing of no alarm, after deep restful sleep. Noticing the sun emerging from the clouds, we grabbed our jackets and headed for the long stretch of beach below the hotel. It was blissful inhaling the fresh salty sea air and absorbing our stunning surroundings. Tired out from our walk, we returned for homemade granola, fresh coffee and pancakes with roasted apples. What more could you wish for from a Cornish weekend away?

More information and book a stay at The Scarlet Hotel here.

***My new travel book, CORNWALL by Weekend Journals is available to order here. Use the code TMM10 to get 10% off.***

Multi-Generational Travel Destinations

Students – Lisbon

Lisbon is an enchanting mix of old and new, sun and sea, ups and downs. Navigate your way round the hills and you will find traditional neighbourhoods, breathtaking views, cute cafes and boutiques, all within walking distance. When your feet do begin to ache the modes of transport are numerous: trains, trams, taxis and modern tuk-tuks! Aside from the typical tourist attractions, this capital has plenty of other ideas for young people to explore. Flights are cheap to Lisbon and the night life is infectious!

Stay at The Independente: the trendiest hostel and suites accommodation in the city. This funky venue also offers a groovy bar and restaurant for guests and visitors. Cheap and cool.

Couples – Zurich

Many assume Zurich will be stiff and stern, with thoughts of finance and business, I witnessed the opposite: a fresh and friendly city with beautiful surroundings, a delightful old town, a cool and creative burgeoning industrial quarter, and a culture which is instantly likeable. Just 80 minutes from London by plane to Switzerland’s most popular city, it is the perfect weekend destination for a romantic getaway.

Stay at Baur au Lac: the belle of the town, Baur au Lac hotel is the most renowned place to stay in Zurich. Currently celebrating its 170th birthday the hotel has served many famous and royal guests over the years. Today it upholds the highest level of classic luxury and tradition whilst regularly modernising its facilities. It is a special place for couples to celebrate a special occasion and indulge in a lovely city break.

Families – Cornwall

While my friends jetted off in the school holidays to exciting international destinations my family drove to Cornwall, it seemed like an unfair substitution. Now, years later, I can truly appreciate this amazing county, and particularly take advantage of its close proximity to London. Serene sunny beaches, stunning sights, charming pubs, long countryside walks and a carefree lifestyle, Cornwall is a blissful destination for a refreshing minibreak family holiday. Just 4-5 hours by train from London Cornwall has a plethora of activities and sites for kids and adults. I can particularly recommend The Minack Theatre and The Eden Project, enjoyable for the whole family.

Stay at Bedruthan Hotel & Spa: Set into the cliff above Mawgan Porth Beach on the North Cornwall coast Bedruthan is build amongst a stunning backdrop. This award-winning hotel has been welcoming families for over 60 year and has something for every age-group: free activity programmes, kids clubs, surf lessons and all the facilities to ignite a child’s imagination.

Just Retired – Oslo

Unusual and exciting, Oslo has an icy cold appearance and climate but is perhaps the warmest and friendliest city I have visited. In recent years Norway’s capital has grown in popularity and importance, with the ‘barcode’ business district developing at speed and the hotel and restaurant scene becoming more trendy and diverse than ever before. It may be more expensive than its Scandi counterparts but it has just as much, if not more, to explore and discover.

Stay at The Thief: Less than a year old, the Thief hotel is without doubt the most enticing hotel in Oslo. Located on the water’s edge in the cultural hub of Tjuvholmen, this coveted hotel is the home for every celebrity visiting the city. With an enviable art collection and an alliance with neighbouring gallery, Astrup Fearnley, the accommodation looks as seductive as it feels. Hotels don’t come much cooler than this.

Mature travellers – Alicante

Of all the wonderful Spanish cities Alicante is not the most obvious destination for a weekend break, however with 300 days of sunshine a year and very cheap daily flights from London airports, Alicante is sure to suit those in need of a warm minibreak, all year round. The destination is ideal for older travellers as it offers exoticism without the long flight, warm weather and great food.

Stay at Asia Gardens: This contained luxury hotel is an oasis of calm and luxury 30 minutes drive from Alicante city centre. This Asian inspired exotic hotel offers indulgent rooms, sparkling pools and a traditional Thai spa. With several restaurants and tropical gardens on site there is no need to leave the hotel!

Basingstoke- Pemberley House:  Once you’ve embarked upon most of your travels, an idyllic setting to retire in, could be found in Basingstoke. In the event that you’re looking at your different retirement options, this town situated on the outskirts of the county of Hampshire with its picturesque countryside, may be more than just picture perfect. Gracewell’s Pemberley House care home in Basingstoke,  is a classic example of one of the facilities you could invest in for retirement living at its best.

I hope these destinations will inspire you to travel, whatever your age.