Tag Archives: America

Things to do LA

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Los Angeles is a strange and seductive place, if you know your way around. For a visitor it can be rather daunting… geographically huge, pricey and almost impossible to explore without a car. Once you’ve ticked off the tourist essentials (Walk of Fame, Hollywood Sign, Rodeo Drive), concentrate on a few friendly neighbourhoods and enjoy the cafes, bars and boutiques who offer some of the best food, culture and shopping on the west coast.

To Stay

Mama Shelter LA – The newest hotel in the hip Mama Shelter chain, this branch only opened in July 2015 and is already popular for its quirky minimalist bedrooms, lively bar and unique gift shop. With reasonably priced rooms and a great West Hollywood location, it is a brilliant accommodation option for design conscious travellers.

alimento

To Eat

Bestia – One of LA’s most celebrated restaurants, Bestia is always busy. Located in a former warehouse in an unlikely pocket of downtown LA, it is the project from husband and wife team Ori Menashe and Genevieve Gergis. Sit at the bar and order a ‘Puddle Jumper’ bourbon, fig and apricot cocktail. When it comes to food there are a lot of enticing dishes, my highlights were the peppery Alla ‘nduja pizza (housemade spicy ‘nduja, san marzano tomatoes, mozzarella, black cabbage and fennel pollen) and the innovative Agnalotti alla Vaccinara (cacao pasta parcel, braised oxtail, burro fuso, grana padano, pine nuts and currants).

Animal – A restaurant by foodies, for foodies. Chefs Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo practice nose-to-tail style cooking with a focus on meat. Try: grilled quail with plum char-sui; Mexican street corn with epazote, Serrano and parmesan; and Bacon chocolate crunch bar with salt +pepper ice cream for dessert.

Alimento – The Silverlake area of town is home to a host of neighbourhood restaurants. Alimento is a small welcoming Italian eatery, which has won a handful of awards for its homemade pastas. I tried their delicious speciality Tortellini in Brodo “al contrario” ($15). The delicate parcels of artisan pasta contain a hot meat broth and are coated in a buttery sauce. It was one of the best pasta dishes I have ever eaten, so good that I ordered a second bowl!

Pine + Crane – Ideal for a speedy lunch, this trendy Taiwanese café serves authentic and flavoursome food. I loved the moreish Beef roll and Three cup jidori chicken, and to accompany it I enjoyed a pot of their fragrant tea.

Night + Market – For a vibrant Asian meal try Night + Market or the newer outpost Night + Market Song. The colourful little restaurants are cheap and cheerful with a menu of tempting recipes. Chop-suey chinese eggplant with bean sauce, chili, garlic and thai basil was addictively tasty. I also tried the popular Thai boxing chicken, BBQ chicken with a lovely chargrilled flavour served with som tum papaya salad and sticky rice.

Tsujita Annex – Across the road from the original Tsujita noodle house, this tiny Japanese café is just as popular. The menu is very brief and really there is only one dish to try… the Tsukemen with char siu (pork) is a warming and wonderful bowl of broth with handmade udon noodles. The regular size (250g) is big enough to share and costs just $14.95.

Sprinkles ATM – I had dreamt of visiting the Sprinkles ATM ever since spotting a picture of it on social media. There are pink Sprinkles shops all over LA but for the magic ATM visit the Beverly Hills branch, just off Rodeo Drive. I tried the simple but delicious vanilla with chocolate icing, after popping in my card a cake appeared in a box less than 30 seconds later.

To Drink

Lock + Key – There is a lot of bar competition in LA so every local has their own favourite cocktail hangout. I liked Lock + Key in Korea Town, an unpretentious and fun prohibition style bar. Once inside the lobby you have to choose from hundreds of keyholes to find the correct entrance. The signature ‘Old Money’ cocktail is a strong and sophisticated mix of scotch, sugar, ginger, bitters and orange peel.

Go get ‘em Tiger – There are plenty of great independent coffee places to choose from in LA but I particularly liked this cute and characterful café serving a range of beans, including Ritual and Parallel, to a dedicated crowd of fans. They also serve a delicious brunch menu.

Verve Coffee – Passionate about great coffee, the Verve team started in Santa Cruz and now have two locations in LA. The spacious industrial Melrose branch is filled with coffee addicts ordering their favourite style of coffee. I ordered a flat white which was perfectly smooth with a delicious rich flavour.

To Do

Getty Museum – The Getty’s hilltop location overlooking the city is as impressive as its collection of art. The curved white building was designed by Richard Meier and the different pavilions house paintings and sculptures from across the ages. I particularly enjoyed the West Pavilion, which showcases masterpieces from 1800 onwards. It is also worth visiting the beautiful original Getty Villa. Admission is free at both.

LACMA – The Los Angeles County Museum of Art has recently expanded and is now spread over eight hectares. When I visited I saw the intriguing temporary exhibition, New Objectivity: Modern German Art in the Weimar Republic, 1919-1933. The show documents a time of huge upheaval and thriving creativity. I particularly loved seeing the work of Georg Schrimpf, Otto Dix and Max Beckmann.

To Sweat

Soul Cycle – I could not visit America without trying a class at Soul Cycle. This fitness fad has spread fast across the country and LA has studios in every district. It was the hardest exercise class I have ever taken. 45 minutes in a dark hot room clicked into a bike, with blaring beats and a screaming teacher. The aim is to never stop cycling as the resistance changes from high to low and the exercises vary according to the song being played. The keen class around me whooped and cheered as we struggled through the class together.

Barre Belle – I have tried a range of barre classes, but Marnie Alton’s boutique studio was the most stylish and friendly I have visited yet. The ex-dancer started up her motivational classes after establishing herself as one of the founding instructors at Bar Method. She describes Barre Belle as “kick butt ballet barre”. I joined a large one-hour class and tried to keep up with the pros. Marnie’s extremely inspirational teaching style and hands on approach helped me really push myself, and I felt great at the end of the hour.

To Shop

Fred Segal – This boutique department store stocks a carefully curated selection of local designers. You can find stylish and unique items from jewellery to swimwear. I couldn’t resist buying some humorous socks by Ron Herman, which you can also personalise with your own image.

Abbot Kinney – Venice was easily my favourite neighbourhood in LA, a friendly area with a bohemian community. The main street, Abbot Kinney is a shopper’s paradise, each shop could have tempted me to spend a fortune. Charity-driven shoe brand Toms started here and for nourishing skincare pop into Aesop. I fell in love with Strange Invisible Perfumes, a local scent designer who creates beguiling perfumes. I bought a small bottle of the memorable and distinctive Fair Verona scent. When your bags begin to drag head to Intelligensia coffee for a great cappuccino.

To See

Warner Bros Tour – If you want an insight into the world of Hollywood the Warner Bros Tour is a must. The two and a half hour trip will take you around the back and front lots to see famous facades and important sound studios. Our knowledgeable and enthusiastic tour guide, Tim, pointed out spots used in popular TV shows and films including Oceans 13, Gilmore Girls, Pretty Little Liars and Spiderman. The studio is currently celebrating the 75th anniversary of Batman and has the real batmobiles and outfits on display. If you are a Potter fan the museum will impress you, with a talking sorting hat (I was Griffindor, phew), models of the creatures and a variety of artefacts and memorabilia. Perhaps the most exciting part comes at the end of the tour when you can sit in the original ‘Central Perk’ café set from Friends.

Griffith Observatory – This popular tourist attraction sits atop Mount Hollywood. The grand art deco building is mainly visited for its views of the Hollywood sign, which are particularly atmospheric at sunset.

LA Galaxy – Made world-famous by the signing of David Beckham, LA Galaxy still has a number of British stars leading the team. Catch a game at the StubHub Center for a whole new experience of soccer. It is much more than just a football match, with plenty of entertainment for all the family.

Venice Beach – When you need some down time from the city, head to Venice Beach for surfing and skating. The laidback boardwalk is home to legendary Muscle Beach and Venice Skatepark, though I enjoyed simply wandering barefoot in the sand and watching the world go by.

Walk of Fame – LA, and more specifically Hollywood, is home to many of the world’s most prominent film, TV and music celebrities, so it seems fitting that there is a street honouring them. With over 2,500 stars across 15 blocks of Hollywood Boulevard and three blocks of Vine Street, it’s best to look up the location of your favourite stars of stage and screen before walking the whole distance. I spotted Marilyn Monroe, Frank Sinatra, Liberace, and Grease hero, John Travolta.

The Best of Sonoma

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I have the fondest memories of my time in Sonoma. Often forgotten in the shadow of its showbiz neighbour, Napa Valley, this idyllic area of Californian wine country does not get the praise and attention it deserves. I spent three days soaking up the golden sunshine, tasting the finest wines and feasting on the fantastic food. The people here are kind, genuine and welcoming and the setting is stunning.

To Stay

Farmhouse Inn – for me this hotel ticked every box… charmingly rustic yet luxurious rooms, Michelin-star dining, beautiful but unpretentious spa and thoughtful details everywhere you look. I checked in late afternoon and was greeted with a chilled glass of local Chardonnay then offered (as much as I liked) from the pick’n’mix station of homemade bath products. I was already in heaven, and then I entered my room. It was like a double page spread in a glossy interiors magazine with a fire blazing, huge four poster bed adorned with cosy countryside blankets, freshly baked treats, and a giant bathroom complete with private steam room waiting to be utilised. Dinner and breakfast were both unforgettable in the Farmhouse Inn restaurant, highlights included delicate and delicious Smoked Eggplant ravioli and a robust and flavoursome tenderloin of seasonal Durham Ranch Elk with butternut squash and pancetta. For breakfast the buttermilk waffles with strawberries and basil mascarpone was unforgettable. As I sat in the evening by the open fire pits toasting their homemade marshmallows, I could not think of a more perfect hotel.

Flamingo Hotel – for a lively and reasonably priced accommodation the iconic Flamingo Hotel is a fun option. The 60 guestrooms are relaxed and spacious and guests have access to the popular Montecito Heights health club and spa, complete with 25 metre lap pool. The Sunday champagne brunch here is renowned among locals.

To Eat

Bravas – Healdsburg is a lovely neighbourhood to explore in Sonoma. I enjoyed an al fresco feast of Spanish tapas at this authentic eatery from celebrated restaurateurs, Mark and Terry Stark. Don’t miss: Watermelon and Tomato Escabeche Salad with sherried currants and basil; Brussel Sprouts with Sobrasada sausage, tomato and manchego; and the Goat’s Cheese Toast with golden onions and white truffle honey.

While in Healdsburg pop into Moustache Cakes for baked goods and Noble Folk for award-winning ice-cream and pies. Barndiva is a trendy art gallery and bar, and Lulo Gallery sells whimsical jewellery from talented designers Luana Coonen and Sakura Haru and Julia Turner.

The Girl and the Fig – If you need a place to stop for lunch in Sonoma Plaza The Girl and the Fig is a good bet. This friendly casual restaurant serves seasonal ‘country food with a French passion’. I tried the summery and tasty Fig and Aragula salad.

Wine Tasting

Scribe – This boutique biodynamic winery requires a booking before you are able to go and try the wines. The hipster hang-out produces beautiful artisanal wine, I loved the minimalist bottles.

Paradise Ridge Winery – Romanically set at the top of a hill this beautiful winery has a lovely atmosphere and great wine. Many visit to see the striking sculpture park, including the signature LOVE sculpture by Laura Kimpton and Jeff Schomberg.

Francis Ford Coppola – Owned by the world-famous film director, this winery has been done up in true Hollywood style. Have a complimentary tasting of their Bianco and Rosso wines, and head upstairs to see memorabilia from The Godfather and Apocalypse Now.

To Do

The Barlow in Sebastopol – this recently developed industrial space is home to a host of food, drink, shopping and art businesses. My favourites were Tamarind for clothes and accessories and Spirit Works Distillery for their refined sloe gin. Best to visit Thursday to Sunday when the majority of shops and cafes are open.

Buena Vista Winery – The prestigious Buena Vista holds the title of California’s first winery. The founder, self-proclaimed “count of Buena Vista” is the inspiration behind the unique Be The Count Blending Experience. After a masterclass with Spencer I created my own personalised bottle of red wine, a blend of Syrah, Merlot and Zinfandel. You will be dressed up appropriately and even get the chance to have your own tailor-made label printed for the bottle. After the experience you will be shown round the historic wine tour museum.

Vella Cheese Company – this family owned company has been making award-winning cheese since 1931. All the cheeses are delicious but they are known for their dry Monterey Jack.

To Escape

Napa Valley – in my opinion this famous region pales in comparison to Sonoma. For foodies though it is worth a visit either for a life-changing meal at The French Laundry or to try Bouchon, Thomas Keller’s 1-star French brasserie just down the road. Order their signature Steak Frites or the roasted chicken with mushrooms and leeks.

Many thanks to the Sonoma County Tourist Board for supporting this trip.

Things to do in Portland

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The recent satirical TV series Portlandia portrays this Northwest American city as a hippy hangout where the ‘young go to retire’. A community of bicycle-riding, source-obsessed eaters; a bunch of liberal creatives who spend their days reading niche novels and making music. I’m pleased to report that in reality it is pretty accurate interpretation, but there is much more learn about this characterful city.

To stay

Ace Portland – The hotel that everyone wants to stay at in Portland. The standard room I called home was decorated with great vintage artifacts, stocked with Malin + Goetz toiletries and Wings & Horn dressing gowns. Enjoy fresh cookies from Maurice (a nearby cafe) on arrival and make sure you pop into the lobby photobooth for a black & white snapshot of your stay. If you are not lucky enough to be sleeping here, visit the hip café and cocktail bar Clyde Common for a happy hour snack, or stop-by Stumptown Coffee Roasters for your morning caffeine boost.

To eat

Beast – Brunch is the most popular meal of the day in Portland, and it is at Naomi Pomeroy’s Beast that the ultimate four-course brunch banquet is served. She originally ran an underground supperclub called ‘Family Supper’ before opening Beast in September 2007, one of the first on the fine dining establishments in Portland. Despite the finesse and artistry of the food here, the communal dining room has a comfortable Farmhouse chic feel. It was, without a doubt, my favourite meal in the Portland.

Ava Gene’s – setup by the founders of Stumptown Coffee this neighbourhood restaurant serves a menu of delicious Italian fare, and has won numerous awards since opening in 2013. Highlights for me were the bread topped with nduja, zucchini and lilies and the Sagna Riccia pasta with pork ragu and peppers.

Pok Pok – this Thai mecca by chef Andy Ricker began its life as a food cart and now has eight venues including two outposts in New York and two in LA. I visited the first eatery in SE Division and devoured a selection of treats from the menu. Don’t miss the legendary fish sauce chicken wings.

Salt and Straw – this ice-cream phenomenon was founded by cousins Kim and Tyler Malek in 2011 and has grown enormously since thanks to its successful innovative flavours. Try the truly unique and surprisingly tasty pear and blue cheese flavour.

Voodoo Doughnuts and Blue Star Donuts – everyone has their favourite donut place in Portland. For indulgent novelty cult donuts queue up with the crowds at Voodoo and order a bacon – maple bar (topped with a real rasher of crispy bacon). Foodies may prefer the more sophisticated Blue Star which offers culinary concoctions like the blueberry, bourbon and basil.

Food carts – in the short time I spent in Portland I managed to sample quite a few of the plentiful food carts. These are a few of my favourites with their signature dish:

Pyro Pizza – fennel sausage, basil and oregano pizza, with cherry phosphate soda

El Taco Yucateco – speciality panuchos

Dump Truck – Mr. Ma’s Special (pork dumplings) and Bacon Cheeseburger dumplings

Wolf + Bear’s – falafel wrap

Nong’s Khao Man Gai – poached chicken and rice

To drink

Stumptown Coffee – If you travel down the West Coast of America you will find Stumptown coffee beans in many of the best coffee shops and hotels. The brand was born in Portland over 15 years ago and the Ace Hotel are privileged to have a Stumptown coffee shop adjoined to the lobby. The coffee is wonderfully smooth and flavoursome, definitely the best I tried in Portland.

Coava coffee – the moment you walk into one of the huge Coava warehouse spaces you can see this team are experts in their field. Pouring precise cups of complex flavoured beans you will always get a great coffee in this speciality café.

Heart Coffee – this independent café is a favourite coffee stop with locals. They provided me with the perfect pick-me-up after lunch, a lovely strong but balanced flat white.

Angelface – this cute little bar has hand painted flowers on the walls and is always full… we were lucky to find a few empty seats. Open for dinner, but known more for their tailormade cocktails (there is no menu). Sit at the central bar to watch the bartenders at work.

Clyde Common – Connected to Ace Hotel this cocktail bar is a must especially at happy hour (3-6pm) when a selection of cocktails are just $6 each. I loved the Spelling Bee (reposado tequila, agave syrup, absinthe, bitters, grapefruit peel). If you are feeling peckish order a tasty Clyde Common Burger.

To do

Evergreen Escapes – I highly recommend booking a city tour towards the start of your trip to Portland, it is a brilliant way to understand the city culture and get your bearings. Everygreen Escapes offer the ‘Explore Portland’ tour, a three and a half hour trip through the eclectic neighbourhoods of the city. A few of the highlights were the stops at Pittock Mansion, The International Rose Test Garden and Mount Tabor Park.

Food Cart Tours – It is no secret that one of Portland’s most obvious attributes is its thriving food cart scene. Local foodie Brett Burmeister has been offering comprehensive and exclusive tours since 2008, giving an insight into the history of the food carts and tastes from four of his favourite vendors.

Fingerbang – this fabulously wacky nail bar opened in the last few months and is already revolutionising the nails of Portland’s coolest kids. Open 12-12, make a booking with super talented Asa, and let her adorn your nails with her imaginative ideas.

Brick and Mortar – a trendy new barber set up following the dissipation of the popular Modern Man salon. Ask for owner Mikey or Calen and let them restyle your hair so you fit in with the Portland crowd.

To shop

Frances May – a chic modern boutique with a carefully curated selection of designer clothes and accessories for men and women. Started up by a very stylish grandmother and granddaughter.

Nike Factory Store – Nike began its life in Oregon, just outside of Portland in 1964. So their factory outlet store is one of the best places to pick up a Nike bargain. Items can be up to 70% off the original shop price.

Milk Milk Lemonade – I loved this quiet little shop in South-East Portland. It is the work studio of OLO Fragrance, a lovely range of perfumes made by shop owner, Heather Sielaff. The most famous scents are Lightening Paw and Bark Wave, though my favourite was Valens.

To Escape

Multnomah Falls – If you fancy venturing out of town, the amazing Multnomah Waterfall is just 20 minutes’ drive from Portland and entry is free. The fall is 190 metres tall, surrounded by beautiful forest. Admire from the ground or take a short walk up to Benson Bridge for a closer view.