Balthazar, Covent Garden

The big bustling brasserie Balthazar has received mixed reviews since its opening a few months ago. It is a hit in New York so naturally everyone assumed it would be equally brilliant and popular here. It is certainly popular and when I went along for a lunchtime meeting I was astounded by the noise levels and general excitement. With so much hype to boost bookings, does the food even need to impress?

Balthazar New York serves traditional bistro fare from breakfast through late-night supper. The New York restaurant was opened by Keith McNally in the spring of 1997, offering a French menu prepared by chef de cuisine Shane McBride. Diners can also choose from an extensive wine list, a raw seafood bar, and breads and pastries from Balthazar bakery. The venue became renowned for its exceptional design, converted from a leather wholesaler’s warehouse to a spacious restaurant that can accommodate over 200 people in the dining room and at the zinc bar.

The London branch is similar in many ways. Housed in the old Theatre Museum, in a building called “The Flower Cellars”, Balthazar shares space with The London Film Museum. The restaurant is open for every meal and food is available all day long. The menu includes an abundance of fruits de mer as well as a wide selection of classical French brasserie and bistro dishes. The Balthazar Boulangerie is housed next door serving its own house-made artisan breads, as well as a wide selection of homemade pastries, salads and sandwiches to take away throughout the day.

All the usual classics that you would expect in a Parisian brasserie are available, we tasted the club sandwich and burger and a summery salad. The service was surprisingly efficient, considering the volume of guests present. Food was fresh and good but nothing special – of our selection the chicken club sandwich was the winner, tender and smoky chicken accompanied with avocado, bacon, salad and served with extra fine and extra tasty pomme frites.

Balthazar are succeeding in drawing in plenty of customers but I can’t help feeling that somewhere along the way they have lost the essence of France.

More information and book here.

www.balthazarlondon.com

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Threadneedles Hotel, Bank


I have visited Threadneedles once before, at Christmas time when the hotel had featured as part of the LastMinute.com secret hotels offer. Back then it was empty and quiet, very different to the hotel I experienced last month. Now part of the Marriott Autograph Collection, the property seems to be thriving with a buzzing atmosphere in the lobby and a busy occupancy.

Nearby to Bank and Liverpool Street, Threadneedles is an obvious choice for business people who want a hotel with a bit of character. That said, the venue is still quite corporate.

We were up several floors in the lovely Hilary Suite. Decorated in cream and brown, the room has a sophisticated classic feel with a atmospheric black and white photo of London’s south bank above the bed. The smaller adjoining room would be ideal for late night working though the lack of light may pose a problem. Abstract artwork hangs on the wall and a Nespresso machine is on the desk ready for use.

There are all the facilities for a modern guest, including a selection of glossy magazines, which I appreciated. The king size bed was comfortable and well dressed with a thick soft duvet and plump pillows.

The bathroom was rather dark too, stocked with White Company toiletries with a big bath, shower and large sink layout.

Ideal for daytime meetings, the onsite restaurant, Bonds, serves good British grub at reasonable prices (well for the city at least). Its success is hardly surprising considering the prestigious team who run the joint. Head chef, Stephen Smith has worked with some of the top chefs at some truly fine restaurants, Bonds is lucky to have a man with this experience at the helm. We enjoyed a tasty three course dinner here choosing from the concise but appealing menu. Highlights included the butternut squash and sage risotto, a wonderfully warming dish with a bite from the squash and a herby hint from the sage, topped with parsnip crisps that gave an exciting crunch. Slow-cooked Duke of Berkshire pork was deliciously indulgent, served with seared scallops and cauliflower purée. Of the desserts, I’d recommend the sticky toffee pudding – a British favourite.

Breakfast is served in Bonds too: Parisian-style pastries, coffee, juice or fresh homemade waffles with berries for a morning treat.

In the centre of the business district, Threadneedles exudes character and boutique charm, making it ideal for business or leisure.

More information and book here.

www.hotelthreadneedles.co.uk