Ekeberg restaurant, Oslo

Posted on by

Even now, nearly 100 years since its completion, the Ekeberg building looks modern and unique against the forested backdrop. Originally built to manufacture tobacco products, it has undergone many transformations. It is thanks to Christian Ringnes and Eiendomsspar that it has been brought back to life again recently.

High up in the hills, Ekeberg Restaurant is a popular place to admire views of the city, and an ideal venue for a New Year’s Eve dinner. Joining the tram at the foot of the hill, we sat among suited couples who all disembarked at our destination. The steep climb, not easy in celebratory attire, prepared us all for our final meal of 2013.

Disjointed, jagged and very unusual, it was like venturing into a science lab. Inside though, the champagne flutes were lined up, white tablecloths graced the tables and waiters were standing to attention.

The set menu for the night featured four courses of Scandinavian food. Norwegian ham with a sweet and sour asparagus and mango salad woke up the tastebuds to start. Next, petit pois soup with chives, garlic cream and bacon crumbs was warming and highly-flavoured; despite the radioactive green hue it was our favourite course of the night. There is something about obligatory set menus that dilutes the excitement of a meal. I watched diners all around me receive the glazed duck breast, so when it was my turn I felt slightly underwhelmed. The meat from Holte Farm was high quality, coated in a red wine gravy of which I would have liked a second helping.

As 12 o’clock drew closer, service became more erratic and we waited a while for our blueberry crumble and coffee. It was strangely magical sitting at the top of the hill so far away from the parties down below. Oslo was set alight with fireworks across the fjord – I can’t think of a better setting to welcome 2014.

More information here: www.ekebergrestauranten.com

Many thanks to Oslo Tourist board for their help with this trip. More information: www.visitoslo.com

www.visitnorway.com/uk

Hotel du Vin, Brighton

Posted on by

Each time I visit Brighton I wonder why I don’t come more often. As the nearest seaside town to London (just an hour’s train ride) it is the perfect place to go for a weekend away, or even just a day trip to see the sea.

I’ve always admired the Du Vin brand which has strong character continuity throughout its branches and approachable and affordable luxury that should suit just about anyone. The Brighton branch is one of the most pleasant I’ve visited, moments away from the world famous pier and a short walk from the main train station.

Our double ‘Durius’ room was located on the top floor, blissfully quiet and impressively spacious. Though simple, the rich colours and bold detailing made the room feel grand and lavish. Particularly opulent was the prominent king-size bed complete with a chaise longue at the foot. An abundance of red velvet pillows added further comfort. Other furniture occupied some of the expansive floor space: a desk, armchairs, wardrobe and TV.

The bathroom was easily my favourite thing. Immaculately designed and pristine clean, I thought perhaps we were the first guests to use it. I always appreciate plenty of light and here it illuminates the wonderful features of the Hotel Du Vin rooms. The bathroom had a walk-in monsoon shower, arguably the best I have ever tried, and a freestanding roll top bath. Toiletries are provided by British stalwart Miller Harris.

There are two dining options available, fully-fledged French brasserie style Bistro Du Vin, and the more rowdy, Pub Du Vin. We enjoyed dinner and breakfast in the bistro, and it was easy to understand why this venue is such a popular neighbourhood restaurant. Wreaths of ivy frame the long windows and wine bottles decorate the room. With the lights dimmed, candles lit and tables full, the atmosphere was charming and cosy.

The menu features a mix of British and French cuisine, ideas are combined to create dishes that are both comforting and sophisticated. To start, roasted figs with blue cheese and prosciutto was the hit, oozing sweet and salty goodness. For main, lamb chops were tender but lacked flavour and the steak was good but not special. Sides excelled, extra crispy chips and creamy mash were nice accompaniments. Skipping dessert, I hoped our waiter would bring chocolates with my fresh mint tea… a trio of truffles arrived, exactly what I had silently wished for.

The next morning I was amazed by the spread of continental delights. I got my hands sticky squeezing myself the freshest, sweetest orange juice, and absolutely loved the thick and fruity French toast.

With few other luxury options in town, Hotel du Vin Brighton is without doubt the best choice for a special weekend away by the sea.

More information and book here: www.hotelduvin.com/locations/brighton

Jackson & Rye, Soho

Posted on by

Many restaurants in London try to emulate the vibe of NYC eateries. In my opinion few succeed, and there are a lot of cheap impressions around. Jackson & Rye however is effortlessly cool and comfortably casual with warm wooden interiors, a well-stocked bar and the dimmed cosy lighting of famous American hang-outs. This new Soho restaurant offers all day dining, ranging from hearty brunches to light lunches, delicious dinners and strong cocktails. I have visited twice now, for a long lazy breakfast meeting and later for an early evening supper. At night the bar becomes more popular and crowded as Soho’s streets fill, I preferred the carefree daytime atmosphere.

When I visited for dinner it felt like the whole of Soho was crowding into the restaurant desperate for some grilled meat. We managed to squeeze into a corner table for two, though the tables are so close together it felt like we were joining the next door couple for a meal! Abiding by dry January rules, I resisted ordering one of the cocktails the barmen were so efficiently shaking up at the counter behind me. After enduring a long walk in the pouring rain, my ballet shoes drenched on my feet and hair stuck to my face, I felt in need of something comforting and hot… Market soup with pumpkin spinach and ricotta ravioli was the perfect solution. It was a silky smooth soup, perhaps slightly too thin, but with the pleasant addition of the ravioli. The Crispy squid was rather thick and chewy for my liking but arrived with a delicious creamy chipotle mayonnaise that doubled up as a good sauce for chip dipping.

Jackson & Rye is at its best with the American classics. Buttermilk fried chicken is tender and satisfyingly tasty, coated in an abnormally thick crunchy crust. The steak was good too, a decent sized piece of meat accompanied by grilled shallot and watercress, a little overcooked but with a lovely rich flavour. Bearnaise sauce was the best of the sauce selection, peppercorn needed thickening and a touch more onion and the house sauce was too sweet for me. For fries, go for the shoestring, ultra thin and crispy, they easily beats the average standard sized variation.

It wouldn’t be a proper American meal without dessert, and the array of choices made a decision difficult. We eventually chose the Melting Chocolate Sundae with Butterscotch sauce which came highly recommended by our waitress. A spherical shiny object arrived, a ball of vanilla ice-cream encased in dark chocolate. You pour the sauce over yourself and watch the chocolate collapse inwards, creating a creamy melted mess. Yum.

Jackson & Rye is ideal for conquering those American food cravings, any time of day.

More information and book here: www.jacksonrye.com