Koya, Soho

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I didn’t even see the restaurant sign, the queue alone told me I was in the right place. Koya is another of Soho’s uber-popular foodie destinations. The little eatery lives on Frith Street, opposite Ceviche (Peruvian delights), and a few metres from Barrafina (tapas heaven). So if you can’t be bothered with the queue there are other options nearby, though the likelihood is… they’ll be just as busy. When a friend and I turned up on a Wednesday night, the waiting didn’t take too long, and luckily we had some soap opera style entertainment from the couple behind us in the queue.

Koya opened in 2010, offering a casual and hip Japanese eating experience to Londoners. Noodles are homemade, kneaded by foot in the traditional Japanese fashion and served up hot or cold in an array of broths with a selection of toppings. The menu is pretty easy to grasp though we still struggled to choose. Udon noodles are served three ways: Atsu-Atsu (hot udon in hot broth), Hiya-Atsu (cold udon with hot broth) or Hiya-Hiya (cold noodles with cold dipping sauce).

We were both won over by the Kamo duck Atsu-Atsu, which arrived steaming minutes later… service here is speedy and efficient. The big hot bowls of goodness can be tricky to eat, splashing about as you slurp the noodles, but there is no doubt about it, this food makes for a very hearty and satisfying meal. The aromatic soup is soothing and delicious, thickened with chunky udon noodles, thin spring onions and meat – I loved the bite sized meatballs but found the slices of duck breast slightly too fatty. Looking back at the menu now I’m spotting lots of other tempting treats, Vegetable tempura and Donburi rice with beef and miso sounds wonderful too. To drink choose from traditional sake, shochu, Japanese beer or opt for a reasonably priced carafe of white wine, like we did.

Koya’s popularity shows no sign of slowing down, these simple authentic Japanese dishes continue to delight the hungry souls of Soho. I left feeling well fed, healthy but satisfied… all that for just £20.

More information here: www.koya.co.uk

Le Citizen, Paris

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Gone are the days when Paris was all about romance. Minimalist design is sweeping through the city fast and hotels are following suit. Paris now has many stylish and efficient options to cater for the cool couture kids who prefer less fuss more functionality.

I first visited the up-and-coming area of Canal Saint Martin a few years ago to gorge on grub at the popular pizza joint, Pink Flamingo, but I have never been fortunate enough to stay in this part of town before. The nonchalant and carefree 10th arrondissement now boasts many characterful independent coffee shops, juice bars, boutiques and restaurants – a great place to explore if you are bored of the familiarity of the famous sites. It is an area often seen in Parisian arthouse films, the charm is waiting to be discovered rather than being shoved in your face with a red rose in its mouth. To me it felt like real Paris.

The discreet Le Citizen Hotel is disguised among the many doors along the canal, only a small sign indicates its presence. We arrived late in the evening and were greeted and directed up to our room, number 1 on the first floor. It was a tiny room, dominated by the big double bed, with  intriguing little nooks and crannies to explore; there was a small wardrobe space for storing clothes, a little selection of snacks for midnight feasting and a kettle for hot drink emergencies!

The room was clean and slick, and felt basic yet deluxe simultaneously, the materials were comforting and aesthetically pleasing but with no space wasted on unnecessary features. Round the corner we discovered our blue tiled mini bathroom, which felt a little like a aeroplane toilet, albeit one that has been beautifully designed with lovely Omnisens toiletries. For fresh air and daylight the windows opened out to views of the neighbourhood, the canal and people on the street.

There are fun features too, an ipad loaned to each occupied room filled with trendy suggestions for the surrounding area and offering wifi for internet browsing. In our room we soon found a little hidden den, concealed by a curtain… lined in soft cushions, the perfect place to sit and read the copy of ‘Paris my Sweet’ provided for one’s enjoyment.

Downstairs there is a communal area for hanging out, reading, chatting and eating. It is all very zen with structural arrangements holding a small library of art and culture books. We relished a basic but tasty breakfast here, just-squeezed orange juice and bouncy fresh croissants. Those wishing to go out and find their own morning meal might enjoy these recommendations: Ten Belles for coffee, Holy Belly for brunch and Tholoniat Patissier for the best pain au chocolat you will ever eat.

Le Citizen is reasonably priced, brilliantly located and creatively designed. I felt a little cramped in room number 1 but loved the concept and character of the place, and the free-spirited neighbourhood totally won me over.

More information and book here: www.lecitizenhotel.com

Thanks to the Paris Tourist Board, more information here.

parisinfo.com

The Old Manor, Bradford-upon-Avon

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I am always on the lookout for idyllic weekend break destinations in the UK. A few weeks ago I found The Old Manor Hotel, a charming and characterful establishment just fifteen minutes by train from central Bath. It is a historic building in Bradford-upon-Avon restored to its former glory by new owners, Tudor and Lucy Hopkins (and Camber the dog) who previously part-owned the Gallivant Hotel. They purchased this property in July 2013 hoping to have a hotel that they could completely call their own.

Known to be part of the Abbess of Glastonbury’s estate, the present Manor House was originally built in classic Queen Anne style before being upgraded in the 17th century. The quirks and detailing give the building particular appeal. With 21 bedrooms of varying sizes and décor, there are standard, superior, deluxe and family rooms to choose from. We were in a lovely spacious deluxe room (which felt more like a suite) in the main Manor house. Ultra clean and fresh with white walls, dainty artwork and endearing vintage furniture, it was a pleasure to spend the night here. Accentuating the remaining old features of the building there were hints of exposed beams and brickwork adding a touch of farmhouse chic. Through the prettily adorned dressing room was the bathroom, with a big bath and shower and Neal’s Yard toiletries.

The couple recently recruited Head Chef, Matthew Briddon of River Café and Paul Heathcotes – he is in charge of the kitchens and has big plans to make this hotel a foodie destination, with an extended restaurant and cookery school in the future. Speaking to Matthew, I found his vision and ambition inspiring, hearing about the plans for a snail farm, their own livestock, fruit orchards and herb gardens… a true farm to fork experience. So far they are making good use of the assets on site, a few beehives for floral honey and a small cold smokery for flavouring fish and other ingredients. We enjoyed a feast in the humble but lovely dining room on Friday night. Sitting by the roaring fire, sipping local ale and enjoying wholesome thoughtfully prepared food, I couldn’t think of anywhere else I would rather be. There were so many food highlights, I remember the innovative Smoked ham hock with ploughman’s garnish: a reinvention of the classic British sandwich, it had a great mix of textures with tangy sauce and irresistible crispy cheese bites. The main course Confit belly pork, pig’s cheek ragu and wilted greens had a sensational flavour and aroma though it was incredibly rich and I was sad not to be able to finish it. A simple homemade Bakewell Tart with clotted cream was served for dessert with soothing fresh mint tea.

Next morning we were awake bright and early with the chirping birds, early enough to see the huge orange sun rise through the trees, setting the sky alight. After a quick refreshing shower, we went down for a cup of coffee and breakfast in the Milking Parlour. Rustic chunky bread rolls stuffed with grilled bacon and ground pepper, orange juice and fresh milky coffee.

Visiting and experiencing the Old Manor Hotel was truly memorable for me; as we walked away though the sunny countryside I thought about how much I would love to have my own little hotel to love and nurture. We can expect great things from this motivated and creative team in the future, I cannot wait to hear about their progress.

More information on The Old Manor and book here: www.oldmanorhotel.com

Thoroughly Modern Milly travelled first class with First Great Western train from London Paddington to Bath Spa, book here.

Many thanks to the Bath Tourist board for their help with this trip, more information here.