Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty, V&A

The genius of Alexander McQueen is a mystery to most… which is perhaps why the new exhibition at the V&A is so popular, giving a rare insight into the renowned and courageous designer.

This grand retrospective of McQueen’s career has transferred from its original home at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York. However as Lee was born and taught in London it feels even more monumental at the prestigious V&A museum. Appropriately named Savage Beauty, this exhibition illustrates the brutal but beautiful aspect of his creations. The artist said about himself: ‘I’m a romantic schizophrenic.’

The tailoring is stunning. There are several rooms which display pieces from Lee’s studies and earliest collections. He learnt from a variety of highly skilled masters and worked hard, using the classic techniques to create unique pieces. He gained experience at tailors Gieves and Hawkes and theatrical costumiers Angels and Bermans. McQueen strongly believed that before you can be creative you need to be technically en pointe.

The exhibition has little narrative, instead the rooms are divided by theme and collection. The Highland Rape collection was particularly memorable and shows Lee’s loyalty to his Scottish heritage. The sculptural outfits are daring and striking, made almost entirely in the McQueen tartan print, the clothes make the women look powerful and imposing.

The ‘Cabinet of Curiosities’ is hypnotising, an enchanting room of fairytale accessories and garments made from unusual and unlikely materials. Each exhibit is a work of art, a technical tour de force. There is a dress made of razor clam shells and a headdress of butterflies. The clothes are intended to provoke and sometimes even disgust… but even the mud covered dresses and sinister leather zipped masks have sublime qualities.

The final room has a hint of the supernatural. Alien-like figures are dressed in figure-hugging animal print dresses. My favourite was a fully sequined iridescent frock which I stared at for ages imagining myself strutting down a catwalk beaming with confidence.
This is the immortal feeling that McQueen clothes give you, elevating you a magical version of your former self, brilliantly different and weirdly wonderful.

This extravagant exhibition immortalises the great Alexander McQueen, showcasing his imaginative and elaborate designs that will be forever inspiring to the fashion world. One thing’s for sure, there is so much more to McQueen than the commercialised skull print scarves. His vision is completely deserving of the V&A platform.

Exhibition continues until August 2, more information and book tickets here.

Hot on the Highstreet Week 256

On first appearance the streets of Athens seemed to offer little more than tourist tat, but after asking fashionable locals and our enthusiastic concierge I discovered a few really inspiring shops.

Joanna Kourbela – this popular Greek designer has two shops next door to each other on Charimichali Street selling ready-to-wear and couture clothing. Kourbela’s main inspiration are elements of nature and her collections are minimalist and classically simple. Block colours and flowing, natural, organic fabrics flatter the figure and are very comfortable to wear – perfect for the hot Greek weather.

Brettos – Greece is well known for its wine and ouzo, however Brettos bar has made a name for itself offering the finest homemade flavoured Greek liqueurs. Despite being in one of the most touristy areas of the city, this colourful emporium is often overlooked by tourists. For €4.50 you can try a glass of one of the vibrant flavours on ice or for a little more buy a bottle to take home and use in exotic cocktails recipes. We tried coconut and Parfums d’amour, a mix of rose, orange and vanilla.

Melissinos Art, “The Poet Sandal Maker” – Since 1920 this family of expert sandal makers have been providing stylish made-to-fit leather sandals for celebrities and those in the know. Squeeze into the tiny cluttered shop, choose from the menu of styles and let Pantelis fit them to your feet. Ranging from €33-€39, it is a small price to pay for the same shoes as John Lennon, Sarah Jessica Parker and the Princesses of Greece.

Lito Cabinet de Curiosités – Lito Karakostanoglou is a self-taught jeweller who has previously designed catwalk pieces for many renowned designers. She opened this lovely little boutique in 2006 showcasing her sensational designs in attractive glass cabinets. I loved the insect-inspired collection which uses real iridescent beetles encased in gold, like the pair of earrings above which are priced at €4,600. There is also a lovely range of hand painted ‘evil eye’ necklaces, dainty, unique and a bit more affordable.

Vassilis Emmanuel Zoulias – walking into this candy coloured shop I felt like I was in wonderland. Zoulias really knows how to make a woman feel like a princess with his sophisticated yet fun dresses and high-heel shoes. The elegant creations have a vintage feel thanks to the timeless tailoring and standout patterns. The colours are rich and the materials luxurious; I’ve definitely never seen neon colours used in such a grown-up way.

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After the success of the initial collaboration Bella Freud has teamed up with Fred Perry again for a second collection. This time the designs are dedicated to the girls of dancehall.

Since the first Jamaican soundsystem arrived in London in the 1960s, the UK reggae scene has been ablaze with bold and creative dressing. In this collection of clothes the vibrant reggae girls’ customised sportswear style meets Bella Freud’s distinctive designs.

There are eight pieces in the collection, ranging from the sporty Tricot track shorts (£75) to the striking red Dancehall Intarsia Knit Dress (£175). I love the simple black Intarsia jumper (pictured above) which would look great casual or dressed up.

Shop the range here.