Sitting here writing this feels like such a drag because all I really want to do is be continuing my time in Beirut, rather than reminiscing about the treasures I discovered there.
I wasn’t sure what to expect of the capital of Lebanon, often referred to as the ‘Paris of the Middle East’. This city is known for its troubled history and ferocious ongoing divides and yet amongst the bomb battered buildings, I saw a very different side to Beirut. The directive ‘seize the moment’ seems to sum up the character perfectly – the animated people are spontaneous, joyful and living in the here and now.
Travelling with an equally inquisitive friend, we sat in our BMI seats on the flight quizzing each other about Beirut. Realising that we knew very little and had departed sans a decent guidebook, we worried about our ignorance of the place in which we would shortly be arriving.
Despite feeling worlds away, the efficient BMI flight passed quickly, Beirut is just four hours from London. With up to ten BMI flights a week, it is an increasingly easy tourist destination.
In my short stay I gathered up a few favourites in the city though I hope a return visit will allow me to expand in greater detail soon…
To taste
Momo at the Souks – Mourad Mazouz’s newest venture, an eclectic dining room in which to eat or enjoy a cocktail.
Leila’s – we discovered this trendy bistro on the first night, selling traditional Lebanese cuisine for affordable prices.
Chocolate tea at Four Seasons Hotel – an unmissable, beautiful indulgent feast for chocoholics.
Eau de Vie – gastronomic French feast at the Phoenicia’s five star eatery.
To see
Walk Beirut with Ronnie is the only way to learn about and love the city.
Holiday Inn – a poignant wounded building, the bullet scars serve as a constant reminder of this city’s past.
The green and luscious American University grounds.
Pigeon Rocks – the famous natural offshore rocks, a stunning sight.
Roman Baths – the ancient discovery in the city centre.
The modernised Souks are less cultural than you might expect, but despite the new designer shops, the architecture still glows under the warm sun and the surrounding bars and cafes provide a lovely environment.
To hear
Music is everywhere in Beirut, from the tuneful tooting of the car horns to the passionate prayer chants radiating from the mosques and churches… we were unfortunate not to experience the lively jazz scene much while visiting but hope to return to hear musicians in:
The Blue Note – the jazziest jazz bar in Beirut.
Mojo’s – a jazz and blues establishment to see great music and comedy.
To drink
February 30 – we stumbled upon this kooky bar off the main street of Hamra where the young students hang out. You will find tables on the ceiling, DJ’s in cupboards, swings as seats by the bar and many more eccentric surprises.
Godot – very close to Leila’s restaurant this tiny bar serves mean cocktails and often has a modest musician strumming away entertaining the lively crowd.
To dance
Whisky Mist – the hottest club, located at the Phoenicia Hotel.
Mad Beirut club – work hard and then play hard at Mad Beirut.
To sleep
Phoenicia Hotel – an extravagant palace with every amenity, and a particularly spectacular breakfast.
Four Seasons – a chic, luxurious hotel… the perfect place to rest your head after a long day enjoying the city.
Out and About
Ski on snowy slopes only an hour’s drive from the city.
Drive to Byblos, watch the boats, climb the ancient castle, and eat at Pepe’s authentic eatery.
Jeita Grotto is a natural wonder, a short drive from the Beirut.
Beirut has it all: sun, sea and skiing and plenty of culture and history to admire and learn about. I can’t wait to return to this enchanting city.
Thoroughly Modern Milly travelled with bmi, British Midland International. British Midland International flies direct from London Heathrow to Beirut offering ten flights per week. Flights are twice daily on Mondays, Thursdays and Saturdays with a daily service on all other days. Fares are available from £485 return including all taxes and charges. For more information and to book visit www.flybmi.com