Caelis, Barcelona

There are plenty of cheap and cheerful tapas restaurants to choose from in Barcelona, but when you feel like a special sit-down meal head to Caelis. Located inside the grand Hotel El Palace, this restaurant is refined and sophisticated in appearance and yet exudes a relaxed and calm atmosphere. When we dined at lunchtime the surrounding tables were crowded with families – despite the grandeur there is no stuffiness here.

Chef Romain Fornell creates haute cuisine with a whimsical and imaginative twist. His Michelin-starred talents are illustrated in the various menus on offer. We chose to order from the a la carte, which offers the most diversity. Sitting back in the plush velvet seats, we enjoyed a sparkling aperitif of Spanish Cava and tiny mouthfuls of happiness, of which the foie gras sweetie was most memorable. The starters were artistic delights, presented in clever bowls with a colander plate on top, allowing the delicious juices to drip down into the soup-sauce underneath. This meant we were treated to a two-tier first course. I tried the summery Warm Vegetables with thin Parmesano tart served with orchard vegetables soup, a colourful dish of assorted vegetables pureed, boiled or left raw, with buttery parmesan shortbread and a thin cheesy sauce. My companion opted for a decadent Macaroni: a surf and turf mixture with lobster, celery and foie gras, it smelt as aromatic and comforting as it tasted, with a flavoursome broth beneath.

Mains were a tour de force. I think everyone in the dining room was jealous of my Duck “a la presse” – it arrived whole beside me to be cooked again by the accomplished waitress, a delicate gravy made with the juices, butter and stock at the table. The highlight of the dish was the extra duo of accompanying duck treats: ravioli with bolognaise and warm crispy duck with oriental dressing, these demonstrated the versatility of Fornell with different cuisines and seasonings. The Dry Age Beef “Rossini” is served chunky and red, oozing rich juices and topped with grilled bone marrow, foie gras parcels placed alongside the beef steak. We were pleased to find a minimum of carbohydrates involved, leaving more space for more courses! The sommelier paired our food with elegant red wine that suited the meats perfectly.

We were persuaded to order the speciality Explosion St Honore, a chocolate creme glacee and strawberry dessert which must be chosen by the whole table; I didn’t understand why until it was brought to us. First a gold tablecloth was laid down, on which the dessert was made. A smooth chocolate sphere, filled with minty mousse, caramel popcorn and other sweet ingredients is placed on the table around which sauces, fruit, flowers, biscuit crumbs and dry ice is casually thrown. The chocolate ball explodes on the table and you are invited to eat the sugary mess in front of you. I have never seen anything like it.

Caelis offers so much more than just a meal, it gives an exciting experience filled with surprises and treats from start to finish, you will remember this food long after you have left Barcelona.

More information and book a table here: caelis.com

Many thanks to the Barcelona Tourist Board for their help with this trip, more information here.

Venissa, Mazzorbo Island, Venice

Venice is incredibly beautiful but it can be claustrophobic fighting your way through the hordes of tourists in the heat. For our final day in the floating city, we ventured out to the nearby islands of Murano, Burano, Torcello and Mazzorbo, all reachable in under an hour on a vaporetto boat. It was a heavenly respite – idyllic, quiet and quaint towns with humble offerings but beautiful sites to visit.

Mazzorbo is the lesser known but very picturesque island. Located next door to colourful Burano, you can walk from one to the other via the connecting bridge. Ideal for a calm stroll along the canal and a long lunch, it is the perfect day out. We visited Mazzorbo to dine at the island’s destination restaurant, Venissa. Wine and Prosecco maker Gianluca Bisol has resuscitated the rare vines and revived the wine production here. The menu focusses on local fare and home grown vegetables are shown great respect, they are given the starring role throughout the set courses.

Guests can dine indoors in the stylish restored rooms, or sit outside surrounded by the vineyards… if the weather permits I would recommend dining al fresco, I cannot think of a lovelier setting. The emphasis at Venissa is primarily on the wine made from their own grapes; with wine of this quality it is hardly surprising that it takes such a lead role in the dining experience. That said, the food excels in its own right, intricately and artistically arranged on the plates, and using the best seasonal ingredients available.

Different menus offer varying numbers of courses… we were completely in the care of the chef who brought out dish after dish, each paired perfectly with another glass of wine or Prosecco. Simple ingredients are adorned with seasoning and floral garnishes. Two lone spinach leaves from the garden arrive with a splattering of olive oil, black olives and a sprinkling of vine flowers. Next, pretty but spiky artichokes with beetroot puree was an invigorating dish. Eel cooked in Modera with green celery and wild chard was more unusual, delicately flavoured, lightly cooked fish.

Pasta courses followed, green ravioli filled with potato and thick linguine with marigold butter, these dishes were strange but amazingly vibrant in flavour, as if plucked straight from the wild. The meat was divine, of the highest quality with indulgent sauces: lamb with peas and onions, deer with cherries and berries. The top Bisol wines continued to arrive at the table, each one with its own fermentation technique and unique character and taste. Dessert was another palate cleansing delight; a citrus salad with orange and grapefruit granite.

It was the healthiest and one of the most memorable Michelin star meals I have ever eaten: immaculate presentation, the very best wine and a dreamlike setting that seems too good to be true.

Those wishing to stay a little longer at Venissa can book a room at their restored and converted manor house hotel, elegantly high ceilinged and beautifully decorated. Open from March to November.

More information and book here: www.venissa.it

Things to do in Frankfurt

When choosing a destination to escape to for a weekend break I consider several factors: flight time, size of city, and cost of trip. And so, though an unusual choice for a leisure holiday, Frankfurt proved to be the ideal place for a 1-night getaway with a friend. 40 pounds for flights, 60 minutes on a plane and a small enough city centre in which almost everything is in walking distance.

To Stay

Roomers Hotel– Seductive and stylish this design hotel is a luxurious place to stay in Frankfurt for the weekend. Located in the centre of town and boasting a chic bar & restaurant, and stunning rooftop spa, it is a brilliant option for both business and leisure visitors.

To Eat

Carmelo Greco– Considering the size of the city Frankfurt has a large number of Michelin star eateries, predominantly to cater for the business customers. Carmelo Greco is a lovely, relaxed restaurant offering delicious refined Italian cuisine. I could not fault the service, quality of food or ambience, it was the perfect way to spend our only evening in the city.

Magarete– This trendy restaurant is must try in the city. Offering modern German cuisine in an arty cool dining space it is always full of fashionable, beautiful people.

Zeit Fur Brot– Translating to ‘Time for Bread’ this inviting café makes all the bread and pastries on site everyday with organic ingredients. At the end of the day they donate the leftovers to the homeless. I don’t normally like cinnamon rolls, but the freshly baked variety here was utterly irresistible, soft, sweet and warm it was very comforting and the perfect snack with a cup of coffee.

To Drink

Plank café bar– This all-black corner café is found in the red-light district. Visit for cake and coffee in the day or at night for a glass of fine German wine. The Plank crew love music and live bands often play, entertaining the evening guests.

The Parlour– Impossible to find and certainly just for in-the-know cocktail aficionados, this tiny bar is setting the mixology trends in Frankfurt. Speak to talented bartender Maxim Kilian who will create you a magical, perfectly mixed drink or order from their inventive list. We tried all kinds of wonderful creations, but I would recommend the Bourbon-based and well balanced Napoleon Dynamite.

Lorsbacher Thal – cider and apple wine is a speciality in Frankfurt and this traditional tavern is the ideal place to try it. Sit at one of the communal wooden tables, admire young charming surroundings and enjoy a refreshing glass of apple wine.

To Do

MMK museum– Frankfurt’s Museum for Modern Art was founded in 1981, it is known as the ‘piece of cake’ because of the unique shape of the building. Exhibiting thrilling and innovative shows, I saw a thought-provoking exhibition inspired by The Divine Comedy in which Heaven, Hell and Purgatory is interpreted by contemporary African artists.

The Dom – With so many high-rise financial buildings it is pleasant to see this historic cathedral and tower, dating back to the 14th century. Climb to the top of the tower for impressive 360 views of the entire city.

Staedel Museum– The main art gallery in Frankfurt has an important collection of paintings, drawings, prints and sculptures from seven centuries. The building goes underground in a fascinating extension with a curved ceiling, on ground level there is an amazing and unique garden accenting with circular skylights on the floor.

Villa Kennedy Spa– Indulge and revitalise at this outstanding spa. Located in the grand Villa Kennedy hotel this spa is a pampering palace. Have a soothing massage then enjoy the indulgent facilities, I particularly loved the Turkish steam room and the granite-lined pool which overlooks the lush garden.

To Shop

Tia Emma– This multi-coloured little shop is a delight for kids and adult. Crowded shelves display trinkets, stickers, toys, stationery and other useless but wonderful artefacts. You’ll need to sit down after all the excitement, and grab a coffee and slice of cake from the shop’s café.

Designe Kleine– This miniature design store is definitely worth visiting. Owner Susanne Stahl rents out the display boxes to showcase and sell the work of other designers. There is always an eclectic mix to discover inside, and even when the shop is shut you can use the 24 hour vending machine outside to the shop which dispenses surprise design creations, different every time for 3 Euros a pop.

Apfelweinhandlung: This site was previously home to the beloved concept store Colekt which recently shut. Owner JB’s minimalist shop serves and sells his own brewed apple wine, a Frankfurt specialty. Just 8 Euros a bottle, this delicious brew uses eight types of apples including rare varieties from old German apple trees. Chat to JB about the fascinating process and buy a bottle to take home.

Bitter & Zart– A chocolate shop to inspire and excite. The beautiful interiors wow, with wall art designs by Renata Kos and Oriana Fenwick complementing the cabinets of rainbow hued chocolates. Sit nextdoor in the seductive velvet clad café for Parisian tea or coffee from locally based roaster Jorges.

Many thanks to the Frankfurt Tourist board for their help with this trip, more information here.