Things to do in Bologna and Modena

Any food lover should put a trip to Bologna and Modena at the top of their ‘places to visit’ list. I’d heard from fellow foodies (and Rick Stein) that this central area of Italy was a culinary dream, but had no idea of the intensity of the local food traditions. Every shop exhibits homemade tortellini in the windows and proudly hangs mortadella from the ceiling. The historic arched streets are scented with the sweet smell of balsamic vinegar and Parmigiano Reggiano, I was in heaven. In between mealtimes there are plenty of beautiful buildings and art galleries to explore, and both cities have impressive towers to climb, to help work off those extra pasta calories!

Bologna

Bologna

We stayed at one of the Adriano Residence apartments, which are located all over the central part of the city. Our modern apartment was stylish and comfortable, ideally located just a short walk from all the sights and shops.

Bologna

Archiginnasio of Bologna, once the main building of Europe’s oldest university, is a staggeringly beautiful place to see. While wandering round the city we stumbled across the beautiful ‘Little Venice” a part of Bologna where the roads are replaced with water, like in Venice. Also in the centre of town are the magical whispering walls, where you can stand at diagonal walls and hear your friend whisper. To see the city from up high, test your thighs with a climb up the 498 steps of the Asinelli Tower.

Bologna

Every Bolognese local will recommend a different ‘favourite’ restaurant you should try. I quickly realised there wasn’t one or two restaurants that we HAD to tick off. Instead we chose dependent on their menus, prices and table availability. Scaccomatto was particularly memorable for their wonderfully simple sweet onion and parmesan raviolini. Head to Tamburini for wonderful meats and cheeses, perfect for an early evening aperitivo, and Drogheria della Rosa for an authentic four-course Italian dinner, accompanied with lovely wines.

There are specialist places to visit if you are after specific foods or ingredients: Le Sfogline for handmade pasta, Paolo Att & Figli for sweet treats, Caffe Terzi for coffee and La Sorbetteria Castiglione for ice-cream.

Modena

Modena

Modena is a quiet town which has become known for it’s long and rich food heritage. Locanda del Feudo is a boutique hotel in the small town of Castelvetro, a short drive from Modena. The property has just six suite rooms, each spacious but cosy and the hotel restaurant is highly recommended.

Osteria Francescana

Many make the pilgrimage to Modena to visit the World’s Best Restaurant, Osteria Francescana. I loved every mouthful of our meal at the restaurant, a truly special experience that was worth the wait. Chef Massimo Bottura reimagines Modenese ingredients and classic dishes to create plates of food that are wildly imaginative and sensational to taste. If you unable to get a table here, do not fear, as Massimo also owns Franceschetta 58 in Modena, a more relaxed restaurant which serves some similar dishes, at much more affordable prices!

Modena

Stop by Mon Cafe or Menonoka for a morning coffee and visit Antica Pasticceria San Biagio for speciality pastries like frappe and tortelli fritti. Mercato Albineli is a lovely fresh food market to pick up any seasonal ingredient you could dream of.

The are plenty of charming shops to buy souvenirs from in Modena. I loved the handmade leather tortellini keyrings from La Vacchetta Grassa and there is a lovely range of Italian scents at Avery Perfume Gallery.

There are a few attractions to entertain yourself during the day. The Ghirlandina tower offers colourful views over the town and car lovers will be in heaven at the Museo Enzo Ferrari.

Parmigiano Reggiano

While staying in Modena venture to the outskirts of town to learn about the heritage of the famous Traditional Balsamic Vinegar di Modena and the process of making Parmigiano Reggiano. Museo dell’Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Spilamberto is a historic museum which holds many balsamic vinegar barrels in its attic. For an education in parmesan head to Hombre, an organic farm which makes some of the best cheese in the area, or 4 Madonne Caseificio dell’Emilia for a more comprehensive tour and tasting.

More information on Modena here.

Osteria Francescana, Modena

It is difficult to put a meal at the world’s best restaurant into words. Of course that accolade has only been awarded by one set of expert-eaters, and I thought to myself throughout lunch there, is this the best meal I’ve ever eaten? It was without a doubt one of the finest, with each tiny course was more memorable than the last, so imaginative and delicious, I almost found myself closing my eyes in appreciation.

I won’t write much about Massimo Bottura’s Osteria Francescana, it is really a restaurant that should be tasted rather than written about, but here are a few photos from inside Modena’s most exclusive eatery…

Osteria Francescana

The town of Modena in central Italy is quiet and sleepy. I immediately noticed the strong food traditions, large vocal markets and tiny patisserie shops with piles of frappe (fried pastry) dusted in icing sugar. Bottura’s renowned restaurant has put Modena on the tourist map, and has shone a light on the rich produce which comes from this part of the country.

Osteria Francescana

There are just 22 covers per mealtime, and bookings are made 3 months in advance at 10am (Italy time) on the 1st day of the month. When the doors opened at 12pm we were greeted by a crowd of suited staff, each trying to help you with your coat. I was impressed to see the lack of dress code here, an indication that Massimo really wants you to feel comfortable, despite the 3 star label.

Osteria Francescana

Aula in carpione (re-imagined fish and chips)

Several tasting menus are available, or a la carte. I looked around and everyone was ordering the tasting option… why pay the same for 3 courses when you could try 9! The menus change with the seasons but I spotted a few favourites which I recognised from watching Bottura on the Chef’s Table programme.

The first course was a simple but complex rendition of fish and chips… a crunchy salty base topped with Carpione fish ice-cream!

Osteria Francescana

Memories of a mortadella sandwich

Mortadella is the cured meat of Bologna and tastes supremely better than the stuff we get here in England. Using the amazing flavour and the beautiful dusty pink colour Bottura reimagines the mortadella sandwich (an standard snack in Modena) into a thick and sumptuous mousse, spiked with powdered pistachio.

Osteria Francescana

Croccantino di foie gras in crosta di mandorle di Noto e nocciole del Piemonte, ripieno di Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena (foie gras lollipop with hazulnuts and a balsamic vinegar centre)

The food continued to arrive, the most immaculate plates of food each presented in it’s own way, with crockery designed to showcase the dish. An indulgent lollipop of foie gras was paired with Traditional Balsamic Vinegar, a thick and syrupy gel more intense than any vinegar I had ever tried before.

Osteria Francescana

Un’anguilla che risale il fiume Po (An eel swimming up the Po River)

Beautifully stark on the plate the eel was wonderfully cooked in a sticky glaze and served with two ingredients the eel encounters as it swims up the river… Campanine apple, cream of polenta and burned onion powder.

Osteria Francescana

Merluzzo Mare Nostrum (Cod and tomato)

This dish was perhaps the most ‘normal’ of the meal. A simple, perfect piece of cod with a bright and vibrant green tomato dressing.

Osteria Francescana

Ravioli di porri, foie gras e tartufi (leek ravioli with foie gras and truffles)

I was most excited about the pasta at Osteria Francescana, and it didn’t disappoint. This creamy dish combined some of my favourite ingredients, and wasn’t as clever as some of the other courses, but it tasted so wonderfully comforting and delicious.

Osteria Francescana

Cinque stagionature del Parmigiano Reggiano in diverse consistenze e temperature (Five ages of Parmigiano Reggiano)

The waiter delivered this pristine white bowl proclaiming that only the only two ingredients for this famous recipe are parmesan and time. Bottura’s love of parmesan is evident in every mouthful, how one cheese can be made into so many different textures and tastes is amazing.

Osteria Francescana

Riso grigio e nero (rice, grey and black)

This startling black plate of food concealed many ingredients; oysters, shallots, tomatoes, sparkling wine and topped with a dot of luxurious caviar.

Osteria Francescana

Autumn in New York

Bottura’s wife is from New York, and I imagined she helped inspire this delicate and pretty dish of berries. Presented in the shape of an apple as an ode to the ‘Big Apple’.

Osteria Francescana

Tortellino in crema di Parmigiano Reggiano (tortellini in parmesan cream)

My favourite dish was perhaps the simplest. Perfectly made little tortellini filled with meat and dressed in a aromatic parmesan cream. I could have eaten it over and over again.

Osteria Francescana

Maialino da latte morbido e croccante (Pork belly with pickled vegetables)

This pork course was smallest meat course I have ever had in a restaurant. Placed on a plate with a variety of pickled vegetables (humorously in the shape of pigs), with drizzles of the finest sauce.

Osteria Francescana

Caesar salad in bloom

The prettiest palate cleanser I’ve ever seen. This ‘caesar salad’ is intended to be eaten in one of two mouthfuls, a floral salad of edible flowers and fruity powders, all perched on a lettuce leaf.

Osteria Francescana

Yellow is bello

We weren’t entirely sure what flavours were in this dessert, the soft and light mousse was heavenly to eat… blissfully light at the end of a big meal. I detected hints of saffron, perhaps pineapple and ginger. By this point in the meal I had learnt not to analyse too much and just enjoy tasting Bottura’s elaborate and artistic dreams.

Osteria Francescana

Oops! I dropped the lemon tart

The famous lemon tart dessert wasn’t on the menu we’d ordered but the waiter kindly swapped my set dessert for it when I said how much I had wanted to try it. Each minute ingredient on the right of the plate matched and contrasted carefully with the bright citrus flavour to make each mouthful different. A seemingly brilliant dish that is, in reality, painstakingly thoughtful.

Modena

More information about Osteria Francescana here.

Locanda del Feudo, near Modena

The little, sleepy town of Castelvetro is a short drive from Modena in central Italy. Deep in the heart of the old town you will find Locanda del Feudo, a charming boutique hotel with just six suite rooms.

Locanda del Feudo

I was lucky to stay at this lovely hotel for two nights last month, whilst on a culinary pilgrimage to try Massimo Bottura’s food. The hotel suited us perfectly, after long days of sightseeing (and eating!) at nearby Traditional Balsamic vinegar and Parmigiano Reggiano factories it was a relaxing place to return to.

Locanda del Feudo

We were in Suite Calla, a few floors up. The suite felt cosy and old-fashioned, a nice contrast to many of the modern hotels I have visited recently. The bedroom had a large double bed and ornate vintage furniture. At night the hotel was silent making it a heavenly place to get a deep and restful night’s sleep.

Though small and dated, the bathroom was all in working order, though we struggled a bit with the tiny shower! A lovely spacious living area offers tea & coffee facilities, a comfortable sofa and petite dining table. In the mornings, light came streaming in through the large windows making it a beautiful place to sit and read with a cup of coffee.

Locanda del Feudo

Locanda del Feudo are well known for their restaurant, which was sadly closed when we visited. The celebrated eatery is run by brothers Andrea and Roberto, who were taught to cook by their grandmother. Both worked elsewhere before making Castelvetro their home. We had a taste of the culinary skill at breakfast when fresh pastries, fruit and cooked recipes were served in abundance.

Quiet and quaint, Locanda del Feudo is a great place to stay while visiting this special area of Italy.

More information and book a room at Locanda del Feudo here.