Tag Archives: Lebanon

The Best of Beirut in Summer

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The Beiruti bohemians know how to have a good time any time of year, but in the hot summer months the Lebanese capital sizzles with excitement as the rooftops are revealed and the city is set alight.

Much of my last visit was spent exploring the beaches and clubs that make Beirut’s summer so fabulous and fun. Especially as violence and trouble nearby threatens to dampen spirits, it seems important to stress the vivacity and joie de vivre of the passionate people in this city. Personally I found it especially refreshing to experience a place where negativity just doesn’t exist.

Soak up the sun…

The city gets hot and humid especially in July and August, the beaches (usually just pool resorts on the seaside edge) become very popular and are a lovely way to enjoy the sunshine and top up your tan.
La Plage served us well. Located opposite Vendome hotel (with free access for hotel guests) this pool and bar/restaurant is extremely convenient. A hip gang hang out round the pool and order pina coladas in the water bar while looking out at the rippling Mediterranean. Entrance fee for non-hotel guests is approx $25 a day, food is reasonable and decent.
Edde Sands is located a bit further out of town and is the biggest Beirut beach. Geared more towards families, this huge resort aims to provide every amenity you could wish to find, a great day out.
Orchid – the 45 minute drive is worth it for this stunning beach, a sophisticated, elite crowd lie languidly by the sparkling pool. Blend in by wearing a bright bikini and big sunglasses. Be warned you may feel like you are in an episode of Made in Chelsea.
Amethysthe, located within the Phoenicia Hotel is a gem of a pool, themed with purple and always playing popular tunes, it is a lovely place to spend the day and a real asset to the Phoenicia empire.

Feast on…

As the light lasts longer, meals become later… many eateries stay open 24 hours a day, ideal for an extra 4am bite on the way home.
Leil Nhar – quick service Lebanese fast food eatery-pizzeria and coffee shop serving a variety of dishes, coffees and smoothies around the clock… cheap, cheerful, the ideal early morning hangover cure!
Al Balad – offers tasty and authentic Lebanese dining. A relaxed and friendly restaurant, the prices are very reasonable.
Barbar in Hamra serves up insanely good grub, ask for the chicken Shawarma and you will be instantly addicted. Open late.

Cocktail hour at…

Iris – this chic lounge bar serves food and drink on its attractive rooftop floor. The food is modern and striking and the cocktails are innovative and creative… equally impressive in taste and visuals.
Le Capitole – chilled out and relaxed this is the perfect place to enjoy a few dishes off the contemporary menu and order a drink or too from the barman who is happy to make any cocktail of your choice.
Cherry on the Rooftop is the seasonal bar in the luxurious Le Gray Hotel. The bar offers enviable views of the city and a great menu of snacks and cherry inspired concoctions.

Dance the night away…

Skybar – the hottest rooftop club in Beirut. The place to be and be seen.
Pier 7 – An epic sized fashionable club with bright lights and trendy design. Drink, dance and delegate someone else to drive home.
White – super slick and shiny bar and club, find some friends to get you in then fight the regulars for a seat at the bar. Excellent DJ sets and dance routines on the bar make for an exciting and exhilarating night… Fridays and Saturdays are the best nights.

Shop till you drop at…

Mishmaoul – this pop-up shop no longer has a home at the Souks but the designer’s work is still very much alive and in demand in Beirut. The Middle Eastern bright and pop-arty cushions, prints and accessories will animate up any wardrobe.
Patches and Cream Boutique – a small independent shop in downtown Beirut selling quirky and wearable clothes from a variety of unique designers. I was pleased to notice an abundance of neon in the collection!

Doze off…

Vendome – a beautiful boutique hotel, with homely rooms and friendly staff. You will never want to leave.
Le Gray – a divine, luxurious hotel in the heart of the city, Gordon Campbell Gray’s fabulous world of intriguing artworks and distinctive style is inimitable and very special.

Beirut is blissfully beautiful in summer and hopefully my recommendations will help you experience the best of the thrilling city during this hot and fabulous season.

Mosaic restaurant, Phoenicia, Beirut

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The newly renovated Mosaic Buffet Restaurant has to be one of the most memorable features of the Phoenicia Hotel, for me an avid food lover… it is THE most memorable thing.

Tired from the previous night’s clubbing and bar-hopping, it is a wonder I managed to stumble out of bed before 11 every morning for the Phoenicia breakfast. This is a morning feast you do not want to miss and I ensured I never did, desperate for my coffee and croissant fix. Little did I know, the excitement continues for other mealtimes with equally impressive displays. I went to experience lunch at Mosaic with the lovely Phoenicia PR girls.

The buffet is presented in a spacious hall, much like a smart school canteen. Overlooking the marina with large light filled windows, I personally always prefer being able to see what I’m eating so loved having a meal there. We took a tour round the food: traditional and modern, Lebanese, European and International even Indian and Oriental food represented. The restaurant offers every Middle Eastern dish you could ever hope to try and a huge variety of other treats too. Dishes change regularly according to season and I’ve heard the Friday seafood nights are legendary! It is set out as an open kitchen space, with exciting and engaging displays and live cooking stations so guests can partake in the process, choosing ingredients and watch the food being made… I had great fun deciding which sauces, toppings and vegetables to have!

To start I chose a selection of Lebanese pastries, salads, breads and cheeses – all extremely fresh and light, intensely flavoured with herbs and seasoned deliciously. I particularly loved the popular tabbouleh salad which can be made according to your preference. The highlight though was the chicken and beef Sharwarma served with salad, tomatoes, garlic mayonnaise and pickles… this is insanely tasty grilled meat shaved off the rotating cooker… it was tender with a salty crispy edge, completely moreish and addictive. As it is cooked so close to the seating area all the food arrives piping hot and straight from the oven… it is the ideal layout to taste the food at its very best. If someone could make Chicken Sharwarma this good in London, I would insist on gorging on it every day.

I was amazed to discover that the other cuisines Mosaic offers are just as wonderful, prepared and presented with care and attention using the freshest ingredients. The lamb curry in the Indian section was fragrant and delicious, with soft meat off the bone and an authentically spiced sauce and the pasta was incredibly scrumptious and satisfying.

Dessert was a rollercoaster of indecision… sweets of every kind, lined up beautifully. The Phoenicia have two pastry chefs, for the Lebanese traditional pastries and for the delicate Parisian treats. I returned to my table greedily with two plates of colourful cakes. My favourite were the pretty macaroons, homemade in turquoise, pale pink and yellow, but it was all good. The crème brulee was creamy and light, chocolate cake was soft and indulgent and the mini eclairs were adorable and very easy to gobble up.

We finished with traditional thick Lebanese coffee, quite different to the English, bitter and strong but the sweet man in traditional dress was too endearing to refuse.

Mosaic provides fantasy feasts for guests at every mealtime, it is one of the unique features that makes the Phoenicia such a special hotel.

Opens Everyday:
Breakfast 7:30 to 11:30 am
Lunch 12:00 to 4:00 pm
Dinner 8:00 pm to 1:00 am

More information here.

Thoroughly Modern Milly travelled with bmi, British Midland International. British Midland International flies direct from London Heathrow to Beirut offering ten flights per week. Flights are twice daily on Mondays, Thursdays and Saturdays with a daily service on all other days.  Fares are available from £485 return including all taxes and charges. For more information and to book visit www.flybmi.com

Vendome Hotel, Beirut

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There is something immediately welcoming about the Vendome… perhaps it is the luxurious but comfortable style, the unassuming friendly nature of the staff or just the fact that when you walk in you instantly feel like part of the Vendome family. After our pick up at the airport, we arrived at the hotel just ten minutes later, tired from the flight but excited about our residence for the next three days.

This five star hotel has an intimate exclusivity and is popular with celebrities and royalty, and after our tour of the venue I can understand why. There are several fabulously stunning suites at the top, decorated immaculately with classy artwork, sophisticated furniture and a refined details.

All the rooms have a decadent royal feel; we were upgraded to an Executive Suite overlooking the Mediterranean. It was a spacious room fully equipped with every necessary amenity. High speed free internet connection made my stay stress-free as it was very easy to use my computer for blogging whenever needed. Oh, and I almost forgot the best bit… on the bed a large pale brown cushion was specially embroidered with my initials! I adore anything personalised so was overjoyed to discover the special Milly pillow!

In one corner we had a large desk with a laptop available for our use, a fully stocked minibar, assorted fresh fruit and sweets replenished each day. The little balcony was perfect for catching a breath of fresh air and some sunlight. The large marble bathrooms were filled with lovely smelling l’Occitane products and an assortment of useful toiletries. The shower/ bath could have been a little more powerful as it took a while to get started but this is my only criticism. The rooms are so comfortable it causes a conundrum – you want to go out and experience Beirut but the room is too nice to leave! This was the issue one night when, exhausted after experiencing the crazy Lebanese nightlife we decided to stay in and enjoy our room whilst watching Bridesmaids on the DVD player.

The beds are massive and extra plush at Vendome, and with the curtains drawn it is blissfully dark, and easy to sleep well. The Vendome guests are permitted the privilege of using the beach La Plage across the street for free whenever they wish (saving a staggering $25 entry fee). We spent several afternoons at La Plage sunbathing by the pool and swimming while munching on club sandwiches and sipping cooling Pina Coladas! La Plage overlooks the sea and even has a bar in the pool for those craving a cocktail whilst splashing around!

In the mornings guests are invited up to Sydney’s on the top floor where breakfast is served. You can sit and admire the breathtaking views of the sea whilst munching on croissants and slurping the freshly brewed coffee. The breakfast display has everything you could want without overwhelming guests with too much choice. Most mornings we gorged on fresh orange juice, frothy cappuccinos and the assortment of pastries we were given. Everything was scrumptious and it was lovely to emerge from breakfast not feeling too full… making sure our bodies were beach-ready! But on the final day we indulged in cooked breakfast which the staff are willing to make however you desire it. Satisfying scrambled eggs with toast and mushrooms for my friend and deliciously sweet homemade pancakes with strawberries and maple syrup for me!

I found a true home at Vendome and was devastated to leave… I can imagine guests of this hotel return again and again, completely charmed by the comfort and character of this luxurious Lebanese hotel.

Visit the Vendome website here for more information.

Thoroughly Modern Milly travelled with bmi, British Midland International. British Midland International flies direct from London Heathrow to Beirut offering ten flights per week. Flights are twice daily on Mondays, Thursdays and Saturdays with a daily service on all other days.  Fares are available from £485 return including all taxes and charges. For more information and to book visit www.flybmi.com