
The first thing that strikes you about the Marquess Tavern is the wonderful location. Positioned on a quiet corner, a 10 minute saunter from Highbury & Islington tube station, the small patio at its front provides a wonderfully laid back setting in which to take advantage of the final rays of autumnal sunshine before the long dark months arrive for good.
Fear not though, as the interior provides the perfect setting for an evening of food and drink to ward off the cold. Recently refurbished, The Marquess Tavern is tastefully decked out for everything one might ask from a pub, from a bright, open space for dining to intimate tables tucked round corners with comfortable sofas.
On our visit, we found ourselves in a private room towards the back right of the bar, which would be perfect for any event from a private dinner to drinks at the beginning of a raucous evening. Our tipple of choice last night was a selection of cider from Aspall, the oldest independent cider producer in the country. To complement our three-course meal, we had three different ciders, each with its own unique taste and quality, perfectly matched to the various foods presented to us on the plate.
Our first course of potted pig’s cheek with cyder jelly, pickles and sourdough toast was adequate if slightly safe. A touch more seasoning was required, but as a light starter it ticked most of the boxes. The cider paired with the pig’s cheek was the Harry Sparrow Cider from Aspall, a robust number that packs a punch powerful enough to stand up to strong flavours such as pork or pickle. It went down a treat.
Main course was the highlight, as we tucked into a pan-roasted chicken with a butternut squash and coriander purée, served with a crunchy and refreshing apple and kohlrabi salad. Textures complemented each other perfectly, from the crispy skin on the chicken to the smooth purée and crunch of the coriander seeds. We accompanied the chicken with the Draught Suffolk Cyder, which is the standard fare that Aspall produce, a crisp refreshing pint for any occasion, but one which works particularly well with the chicken and sweet vegetables we had been served.
Our dessert, a strawberry and clotted cream mille feuille, was slightly underwhelming, and as Mary Berry mentioned in this week’s Great British Bake-off, “I’m not sure fresh fruit quite works in a mille feuille”. The undoubted star of the final course was Peronelle’s Blush Cyder, a sweeter offering from Aspall. Named after the matriarch of the Aspall dynasty, Peronelle’s Blush is blended with some blackberry juice picked from the hedgerows surrounding the farm down in Suffolk.
All in all, The Marquess Tavern offered a welcoming and relaxed atmosphere, and with a menu changing every couple of months, and new seasonal delicacies on offer all the time, it’s well worth a return visit. While you’re there, finally, it would be silly to pass up one or more of the Aspall options available to you there, or indeed at many other Youngs pubs across London.
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Written by a Thoroughly Modern Man, James Bomford.