Tag Archives: James Bomford

THOROUGHLY MODERN MAN: Fun Palaces

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Illustration by Emily Medley

Everybody loves a good popup. We would queue round the block for renaissance-themed speakeasies, and salivate over Moroccan-style hickory-smoked artisanal hotdog vans. If entertainment in London’s twenty-teenage years have been defined by anything, it has been this 6-week window format of culinary and beverage innovation which has become so predictable. It is flitting, if hollow. Well this popup initiative is different. Regular readers will perhaps be disappointed with a lack of photos of mouth-watering plates of artistry, but bear with us, for the project discussed in this post is just as intriguing, and might even spur one or two of you into action on the first weekend in October. Fun Palaces is a popup project with principle.

I cannot tell you a huge amount about the 100+ popup Fun Palaces which will emerge across the UK, and reach as far as Iceland and Canada on 4-5 October. I cannot tell you because their form, content and context lie in your hands. Fun Palaces is an initiative seeking to strengthen communities through creativity. Channelling the vision of Joan Littlewood and Cedric Price – in the year of what would be the 100th anniversary of the former’s birth – Fun Palaces were originally supposed to be spaces where communities might come to perform, learn, teach, relax, or really engage in anything, so long as it was fun and creative. 2014 sees an eccentrically wide range of Fun Palace locations and activities, from physics lessons in Brockwell Lido to Murder Mystery in Birmingham. Fun Palaces 2014 will even transcend physical space, as several online communities have formed to take part electronically.

The aim is to build communities, not just audiences, and those behind the project believe absolutely in the power of creativity that so often lies dormant in each of us. “Everyone an artist, everyone a scientist”; so Joan Littlewood believed, if everyone was only given the chance. Fun Palaces were her and Cedric Price’s idea for “laboratories of fun” and “universities of the streets”, and if any of this sounds as interesting as it should, then make sure to visit funpalaces.com for information about local initiatives which have already signed up. Of course, if there isn’t one in your area that appeals to you, then sign yourself up to create one, and get in touch with others in your area. Get inspired, get creative, and above all have some fun!

More information here: funpalaces.co.uk

Written by a Thoroughly Modern Man, James Bomford.

THOROUGHLY MODERN MAN, Gelato making class at Snowflake, Soho

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“So it’s ice cream, then”, said a friend of mine, nonplussed, as I told him what my next write-up was. “I don’t know why they insist on calling it gelato, just call it ice cream”. After my latest experience at Snowflake Gelato, I know now why “they” insist on the separation of ice cream and gelato, and why from now on I shall insist on it too.

Snowflake’s proprietor Asad set out to make gelato with one guiding principle: the best of everything. When one’ product consists of milk, sugar, cream, and then one or two all natural ingredients, from strawberries to caramel to rich pistachio or spiky mint, there is nowhere to hide if they aren’t absolutely top notch quality. You won’t find any fluorescent green mint chocolate chip in Snowflake, because the mint flavour is made from freshly blitzed mint leaves; if you order the strawberry or blood orange (and I advise you to do so), strawberry and blood orange is exactly what you’re getting, and nothing else. All of this wonderful produce is lovingly crafted by energetic head chef Paolo, to deliver the stunning spectrum of flavours available from the tortuously inviting glass display case in Snowflake’s Soho store.

There is some science that goes into the taste sensation that blows “ice cream” clean out of the water. Less air in the mixture gives a much denser flavour on the palate, and the process of blast chilling the freshly made gelati and sorbetti stops the ice crystals from forming too large, preserving the impossibly silky smooth texture. There’s even less fat compared to normal ice cream, which compensates with extra cream to achieve that desired smoothness. So – and I think this is the first time I’ve ever said this, as those who know my diet will attest – the tastier option really is the healthier option. That extra scoop wasn’t that bad after all, then.

As a privileged member of the press, I was even allowed into the inner sanctum to try my hand at making my own sorbetto and gelato. Under the watchful eye of Paolo and Asad, we sliced and diced and blended and churned, and in a matter of two hours we had four flavours done, dusted, and thoroughly sampled. But fear not, you too can see behind the curtain, and chance your arm in Snowflake’s laboratory. For groups of up to ten, Paolo will whisk you around the world in a chilled culinary adventure, with the added bonus of eating what you produce. The opportunity to see the passion that goes into making truly great gelato is to be missed, so get in before the summer rush truly takes off in earnest. For you West London purists not keen on venturing into the maelstrom of summertime Soho, fear not, your friendly neighbourhood gelateria’s original location is situated in lovely Westbourne Grove, so there are no excuses for not getting yourself down to dig in to the frozen treats that await.

More information on Snowflake here.

Written by a Thoroughly Modern Man, James Bomford.

THOROUGHLY MODERN MAN: Sakura at Sake no Hana

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London was conspiring against me last Tuesday. From tube strikes to bus blockades to Boris bike bedlam, and then a small slip up on my part (there is a Japanese restaurant called Sakura at number 23…of a different street), the signs were telling me not to turn up to this lunch. But I’m awfully glad I did.

‘Sakura‘ (translated as ‘cherry blossom’) is the name of a springtime menu at the restaurant Sake no Hana, created to celebrate the start of spring, and specifically, the cherry blossom season in Japan. The theme is clear as soon as you enter the bar on St James’s Street; beautiful blossom arrangements designed by florist Veevers Carter adorned the space from floor to ceiling, and a quick look at the menu leaves you in no doubt of the central ingredient.

Cherry blossom tea, fragrant and subtle, cleansed our palettes at the start of the meal, followed by a perfectly adequate white miso soup with shiitake mushrooms. Both were enjoyable, but the anticipation really kicked in when our centrepiece bento boxes arrived. Sweet sticky seven-spiced chunks of chicken thigh were accompanied by a fresh salad of asparagus and tenderstem broccoli with sesame dressing. The chicken was well cooked and the salad provided enough crunch and freshness to compliment the soft heady sweetness of the meat. The second layer of the box was sushi and sashimi. Our rolls were expertly constructed and the balance of heat and flavour in the spicy tuna was exemplary. The star of this layer, however, was the sashimi. Wonderfully soft, each piece melted in the mouth and I was blown away by a cut I had not eaten before: Chu-toro, or tuna belly, is a rich, fattier section of the fish than the conventional steaks to which we are accustomed, and the flavour is bigger and better as a result.

Thoroughly content with our meal up to this point, desserts arrived to put the cherry on the top, so to speak. Macaroons are one of life’s great treasures when done well, and I will add Sake no Hana to my treasure map after sampling their offerings. Light and meltingly delicate, with a rich cherry ganache filling and a beautifully decorated crispy shell, these macaroons come in bowls of five, so when it comes to dividing up these treats, make sure you don’t have any underlying tensions with your fellow diners. The co-star of our final course was a plate of delights; variations in colour, texture, and taste. A rich chocolate dessert with sharp cherry centre, delicate ginger jelly cubes with pear, pistachios and a cherry blossom ice cream all came together to deliver a wholly satisfying finale. The (you guessed it, cherry-themed) cocktails which were served alongside our lunch were fine, if potentially overshadowed by the food.

I would seriously recommend a trip to Sake no Hana. You need to move quickly though as this seasonal menu is available only for the next two weeks. You could even find yourself celeb-spotting: as we tucked into our sashimi, along came Rosie off of Made in Chelsea. Higher quality of food than the clientele, in my opinion.

Special menu continues until 19 May, more information on Sakura at Sake no Hana here.

Written by a Thoroughly Modern Man, James Bomford.