THOROUGHLY MODERN MAN: Philip Pullman’s Grimm Tales

This review will be unusually brief, as the feelings of intrigue and mystery created by Philip Pullman’s masterful reimagining of the fairy tale is better experienced than described. This is theatre-in-the-round at its best, with characters weaving in and out of the clusters of audience members scattered throughout the perfectly eerie performance spaces. The performers’ fluid transition from narration to acting creates a seamless chronicle that flows at a good pace. This pace is what makes the minimalist storyline fly, unencumbered by the trappings of modern storytelling like backstory and description. To borrow from Einstein, storytelling “should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler”. Suffice it to say that, of the five stories, the ones you think you know beforehand you’ll see in a new light, and the ones you hadn’t known existed previously – here I am specifically thinking of the half-man half-hedgehog who rides on the back of a cockerel, playing his bagpipes – will be left engrained in your memory. Get yourself down to the Shoreditch Town Hall basement, and let yourself be carried away by the ambience, the acting, and above all the reinvention of stories handed down generation to generation.

Continues until 24 April, book here.

Written by a Thoroughly Modern Man, James Bomford.

The Clove Club, Shoreditch Town Hall

Whenever I see a new restaurant opening in London I am keen to get a table and suss out its food and friendliness. I was rather stunned in this case by the lofty and superior tone of the guys at The Clove Club. Annoyingly I was still desperate to try the food so I swallowed my pride and booked a table at this heavily hyped restaurant in Shoreditch Town Hall.

This new venture is a family affair, the Clove Club brothers are keen to present inventive and exciting cuisine in a laid back and handsomely historic environment. They have certainly achieved this – the food pushes boundaries whilst the restaurant oozes a charming old-fashioned elegance.

On a Saturday lunchtime we had a choice of two menus: the tasting menu, or the lunch option (snacks and three courses for £35). We opted for the set lunch preferring the selection and price!

While some of the staff were a little sullen, our waitress was kind and friendly offering us valuable advice.  Between the two of us we tried the whole menu.

Snacks:
Radishes, Black Sesame & Gochuchang
Crispy Chicken Feet & Devilled Spices
Violet Artichoke & Cod’s Roe

Starters:
Tamworth Pork Cheek, Black Pudding, Sweetcorn & Bobby Beans
Or
Flame Grilled Mackerel Tartare, Pickled Grapes & English Mustard

Mains:
Thornback Ray, Cauliflower, Tarragon & Elderberry Capers
Or
Roast Mallard, Baked Pumpkin, Juniper & Turnip Tops

Desserts:
Autumn Berries, Ewe’s Milk Mousse, Beremeal & Milk Crisps
Or
Poached William Pear, Chestnut Cream & Honey Granita

We sipped cocktails as the canapé-like snacks arrived promptly. My unlikely favourite was the chicken feet, ultra light and crispy with a moreish salty flavour. Of the starters, the cold, raw mackerel wasn’t a massive success… pickled grapes and mustard accentuated the strange flavour. The pork was delicate and delicious, I have never been brave enough to try black pudding before but must admit it complemented the meat and vegetables perfectly.

The ray was amazingly fine and very appealing dressed in herbs. My duck was tender and juicy, coated in a sumptuous sauce and served with interesting vegetables, a very successful dish I thought.

The desserts were light and refreshing. I particularly liked the warm berry compote with dollops of mousse and contrasting milk crisps, every mouthful was different.

We thoroughly enjoyed lunch at Clove Club even though I arrived sceptical. I feel strongly that as the London restaurant scene becomes more and more lucrative and competitive, an arrogant and elitist attitude is not acceptable. Clove Club is an example of fine food but foul attitude, hopefully if you visit you will only experience the former.

More information, and book here: thecloveclub.com