Tag Archives: French

Hot on the Highstreet Week 234

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No matter how many colourful, slogan, patterned t-shirts you own it is always the plain timeless tees that get the most wear. You can never have too many classic white, black and grey tops, they work equally well with scruffy jeans or a smart pencil skirt. A comforting garment that will never let you down.

Maison Labiche is a combined effort from two Parisian friends, one being a stylist (Maison) and one being a designer (Labiche). Their aim is to breathe new life into basics without resorting to in-your-face graphics and loud prints. The duo’s shared love of timeless style has resulted in them name-checking past and present famous places, songs and people on their garments.

The brand’s signature cotton t-shirts feature heart embroidered detailing and come finished with a pre-rolled sleeve. Those looking for more warmth or a casual weekend throw-on-and-go piece can opt for an equally timeless grey, burgundy or navy sweater.

I’ve always loved the traditional French handwriting font, it has a pretty innocence about it as well as looking retro inspired. These t-shirts are unisex and will be hand-embroidered with your word or words of choice (up to 15 characters) in a variety of cotton thread colours.

The idea behind these personalised tees is to wear something simple that you love, close by to your heart. My ‘modern milly’ tee is on its way to me, order your very own here or visit an Urban Outfitters store, prices from £50. Humble but effortlessly stylish Maison Labiche let you put your stamp on your favourite fashion staples.

More information on Maison Labiche here.

Le Cochon Aveugle, York

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York is one of Britain’s most historic cities, known for its traditional English cobbled streets and tea shops. Le Cochon Aveugle defies the norm, a cosy and eclectic French eatery offering creative and delicious dishes, it is an incredibly exciting addition to York’s culinary scene. The pastel green exterior with pink neon lettering is instantly attention grabbing on the small street. In its early days the decor was the cause of much debate, with bras hanging from the ceiling. We didn’t notice any underwear on display but I was captivated by the quirky interior design; the black and white tiled floor, mismatched mirrors hanging on the walls and other odd artefacts adding character to the room. Croaky vintage jazz murmurs from the retro tin speakers.

The six course set dinner is written on the blackboard each day, showcasing intricate French cooking techniques, seasonal ingredients and innovative taste combinations. Usually set menus fill me with dread as I have to endure numerous courses of fish or offal, here though I couldn’t fault the recipes on offer, it featured some of my favourite flavours.

With less than twenty covers, this restaurant serves its visitors with the utmost care and attention to detail. Each table is dressed with a different herb pot plant (we had rosemary) which pleasantly scents the air. I intended to not drink, but couldn’t resist the unusual gin concoction… a lovely combination of Hayman’s gin, sorrel, violet sugar, egg white, freshly pressed apple and lime juice. It was the most beautiful cocktail, a martini glass filled with healthy looking green liquid with a creamy top, sprinkled with purple sugar and adorned with an edible flower.

We were then treated to the following exquisite courses, priced at just £30 a head.

Pain de campagne, beurre maître d’hôtel and beurre noisette

So much more than just bread and butter… this dish featured naughtily indulgent devilled black olives, warm freshly made soft bread rolls, blissfully garlicky aioli and an airy nutty butter mousse, that tasted good enough to eat alone. The meal was off to a great start.

Blanched almond, garlic and sourdough gazpacho with borage flowers

Initially I found this cold soup a little odd but I soon acquired a liking for its thick bready flavour with a hint of almond and garlic. It was strangely beautiful in the bowl, a simple cream liquid with a drizzle of oil.

Grey mullet, cauliflower purée, curry oil, pine nuts and sultanas

This dish tasted and looked Moroccan though we were told the recipe idea originates from La Rochelle in France where they used to import curry paste so that it is a familiar flavour in the region’s food. It was a triumph of taste, the fleshy fish with a contrasting creamy yoghurt like purée and delicate sweet accents from the shrivelled dried fruit.

Spring lamb navarin, new season vegetables, pomme purée and oregano pistou

This rustic homely recipe arrived for two in a small casserole dish with side portions of the most wonderfully indulgent buttery creamed potatoes. The lamb was utterly divine, tender and comforting, cooked with spring vegetables and fresh herb garnish. I would love to learn to cook this for long lazy Sunday lunches.

Goats cheese mousse, frisée aux lardons and quail egg toastie

A stylish take on a cheese course this mini plate of rich components was immaculately presented. Thick white whipped goats cheese with crispy salty chunks of bacon and a tiny toastie topped with a fried quail egg. It was a bit too much for me.

Rhubarb semi-freddo with pistachio cream and poppy seed madeleines

Dessert has never been my favourite course but Le Cochon Aveugle really excelled. A fresh and vibrant variety of ingredients combined to make a floral and irresistible dish. Warm freshly baked madeleine that crumbled gently in the mouth with airy pale green pistachio cream and sweet hard ice-cream.

Optional (additional £3.50): Vienna coffee syphon with petit fours

This unique way of brewing coffee is romantic, traditional and fun to watch. The scientific instrument carefully creates a strong and luscious dark drink that has a deep flavour. Super sweet mouthfuls of truffle and white chocolate were an indulgent final treat.

Le Cochon Aveugle translates as ‘The Blind Swine’ a perfectly nonsensical name for this crazy culinary delight. This restaurant is reason alone for foodies to flock to York.

More information on Le Cochon Aveugle and book a table here.

Brasserie Chavot, Mayfair

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Eric Chavot is a French legend, and the Michelin stars have followed him to every kitchen he has stepped foot in. Following stints in various hotels and renowned restaurants in London he has opened his own brasserie, in his own style, on Conduit Street W1. Previously critic AA Gill has proclaimed his cooking “as good as you can eat in London” and Marco Pierre White described him as “the best in London without a doubt”. So I guess it is hardly surprising that his newest venture, Brasserie Chavot is such a success. I eagerly antipated the culinary excellence, counting down the days to my visit.

To start we opted for the bizarre but intriguing, Snails Bouruignon with meatball and potato espuma and the less complicated Charcuterie selection. The snails arrived in a magical steaming pot of foam, wondrous layers of meaty goodness and creamy sauce, ideal for a cold winter meal. The feast of charcuterie was a challenge to finish, prettily presented on a newspaper covered board, every kind of salami with cornichons and terrine. I couldn’t help thinking what good value this array was for just £11.50.

Brasserie Chavot offers delicate and delicious recipes, the kind of dishes I tear out of magazines and put up on my notice board in the hope that one day I might make the effort and try them out in my own kitchen. Poussin for instance, why have I never tried this dainty little bird at home? It is such a treat… I relished the garlic and lemon drenched meat and the crispy, crunchy, salty skin. The star of the show though, as our waiter had subtly pointed out, was the rump of Oison venison with honey glazed root vegetables. This dish was cooked to perfection, and I am still regretting not choosing It myself. My guest was silent as he devoured the soft rich caramelised meat and vegetables. My regular mouthful stealing caused a Jackson Pollock-esque mess on the white tablecloth, but it was worth it. Creamy mash, pomme frites and broccoli were all just as scrumptious, as I’d expect from a French master of cooking, if I had to choose one it would be the mash which was impressively smooth and silky.

Chavot offers classic French puddings that are executed immaculately. My crème brulee was aromatically flavoured with hundreds of specks of real vanilla, whilst the chocolate-caramel ice-cream was a childish delight with a touch of sophistication.

No-one is pretentious or pompous in this restaurant… a bustling beautiful dining room filled with foodies enjoying faultless creations. Deservedly Michelin starred food in a blissfully casual environment, Brasserie Chavot is my kind of restaurant, I can’t wait to return.

More information and book here: brasseriechavot.com