Category Archives: Art

The Leela Palace, Udaipur

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Udaipur is known as the Venice of the East. This charming lakeside destination is one of the lesser known Rajasthani cities, but is the perhaps the most beautiful I visited. There are plenty of five star hotels to choose from in Udaipur, but I highly recommend the regal Leela Palace, a luxurious abode which offers faultless service and the finest facilities.

We were collected in one of hotel’s white BMWs and dropped at the private jetty to get a boat across to the hotel. It is a charming way to reach the property, and a lovely opportunity to see the city from the water. Back on land we were greeted with cascading rose petals dropped from a balcony above us and serenaded with traditional Indian music.

To make our one night at The Leela Palace Udaipur particularly memorable the management team upgraded us to room 305, the Royal Suite. This magnificent apartment in the palace wing had ornate high dome ceilings, a glittering chandelier and impressive artwork depicting local royalty. After exploring the living room, I found the lavish bedroom with a giant four-poster bed topped with opulent silk cushions. The walk-in wardrobe and marble bathroom felt grown up and exciting to use, with numerous gadgets concealed within their clever design. Everything you could need can be found in the Royal Suite, including a spacious dining room and practical kitchen, and a butler is on hand to make sure your stay is perfect. Unfortunately in my short stay of just 24 hours I couldn’t spend as much time as I wanted to in this incredible suite, but I did have time to admire the beautiful details, craftsmanship and indulgent touches.

The hotel has 80 rooms in total offering spectacular lake and garden views. Thanks to the modern design all bedrooms are spacious and thoughtfully arranged. In the hotter months the plunge pool rooms and suites are particularly popular.

When you are not in your room, there are plenty of stunning communal spaces to enjoy. Each night the inner courtyard hosts live music and dancing, while artistic guests may wish to join the daily heritage tour of the hotel’s art and artefacts with the in-house historian.

Poolside lounging feels very extravagant thanks to the attentive staff who bring out fresh iced tea and cooling flannels. Casual food is available all day and is delivered in picnic hampers. I loved the falafel wrap, a welcome break from curry and spice.

Udaipur is beautiful during the day but at night it truly sparkles and the Leela Palace lakeside restaurant Sheesh Mahal is the ideal place to sit and appreciate your surroundings. It is only luxury hotel restaurant that also welcomes outside visitors, though with only a limited number of tables bookings are essential. It was wonderfully romantic when we sat and enjoyed a glass of local Sula wine and an epic Indian feast. The kitchen excel at regional Rejasthani dishes, most memorable was the spicy and creamy Hyderabadi Khatte Baingan (eggplant cooked with tomatoes and tamarind) and the assorted vegetarian kebab platter.

Breakfast can be enjoyed in your own room or downstairs in the main Dining Room where an abundant buffet is put on each morning. We opted for fresh waffles, exotic fruit and coffee, but if you are feeling brave, try some of the Indian delicacies.

Hidden in the foliage of the grounds is the serene ESPA Spa, a place for reflecting and relaxing. I was amazed at how my body responded to the two hour signature Ayurvedic treatment. This intensive massage treatment began with a brief consultation to determine my ‘dosha’ type before my therapist (Tashi) commenced with a foot ritual. She recognised both pitta and vatta tendencies and used specific oils and massage techniques to soothe and balance my body.

The next morning I returned to the spa for a private yoga class. This quiet and meditative class clears your mind before the day ahead and strengthens the core muscles.

Usually in a new city I am desperate to get out and explore, but the Leela Palace in Udaipur completely won me over. I just wanted to stay at this beautiful hotel and experience everything it has to offer. After a brief but beautiful stay I was sad to float back to reality on the mainland.

More information and book a stay at The Leela Palace Udaipur here.

Things to do in Tokyo

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Japan has been at the very top of my destinations list for a few years. I knew a country that excels in food, design (and stationery) would suit me perfectly. When I arrived in Tokyo I found myself completely transfixed with the fascinating culture and customs that are in stark contrast to the rush of mad modernism and futuristic fun. If you are brave enough to try strange cuisine and get involved in local traditions you will unravel a magical and memorable world beyond all imagination. 

To Stay

Mandarin Oriental Tokyo – From the ground floor, Mandarin Oriental Tokyo is just like any other high-end luxury hotel. But the real experience begins at floor 38 where the panoramic city views will leave you lost for words. If you are lucky Mount Fuji will be glinting majestically in the distance too. The rooms are divinely luxurious and there are numerous fine food options within the hotel.

The Peninsula Hotel Tokyo – The ornate glittering lobby welcomes you in style to the Peninsula Tokyo. The hotel is a favourite with business and leisure guests thanks to its impeccable attention to detail and thoughtful luxury. Don’t miss trying the legendary Kobe beef at Peter restaurant.

Zabutton Hostel – This hip hostel in Azabu, central Tokyo, opened in 2015. There is a coffee shop on the ground floor, and dorms and private rooms on the floors above. We enjoyed the experience of sleeping on traditional tatami beds.

To Eat

Birdland – There are two branches of this popular yakitori restaurant. The Michelin-starred Ginza branch has a U-shaped bar surrounding the dramatic open kitchen. The little skewers of chicken are absolutely delicious and the poultry is so fresh that you can even try chicken sashimi.

Higashiya – This Ginza boutique sells beautiful Japanese confectionery (wagashi) and also operates as a tea house. It is a great place to pause and recuperate after a busy day’s shopping. Try the famous mocha; pounded sticky rice sweets.

Tsuta (Japanese Soba Noodles) – Getting a seat at the world’s first Michelin-starred ramen restaurant is definitely a challenge. I arrived at 7am to pick up one of the last tickets for lunchtime, then spent the next seven hours exploring the city until it was time for my allocated slot. The understated eatery seats just 9 diners at a time and guests sit in silence while they slurp their flavour-packed bowl of ramen. Tsuta’s signature soy-based broth is aged for 2 years and all noodles are made in-house, a bowl costs just £6. There are a few variations to choose from, I would recommend the most popular variety with four pieces of pork and a boiled egg.

Kanetanaka Sahsya – The original Kantetanaka is one of the city’s most distinguished traditional tourist restaurants. This more casual branch is harder to find, upstairs in an office/retail building near Omote-sando station, and is more popular with locals. There is a large, minimally-designed space has stylish furniture and tableware and a communal table looking out to a small rock garden. I recommend visiting for the reasonable set lunch menu.

Tempura Tsunahachi – This tempura institution has been making amazingly light tempura for 93 years. Sit at the bar and pick a selection of seafood and vegetables, which the chef will cook in front of you before serving with dipping sauce and salt. Don’t get confused with an uninspiring restaurant of the same name on the 13th floor of a tower building nearby.

Fureika – When you need a break from Japanese cuisine visit Fureika, a Michelin-starred Chinese restaurant in Azabujuban. Opt for the dim sum set lunch for around £20 and relish the endless courses of miniature treats.

Kyourakutei – Yet another casual Michelin-starred eatery, hidden away in the Tokyo backstreets. Kyourakutei serves comforting soba noodles and delicious tempura. Their noodles are freshly milled on the day so they are wonderfully fresh and bouncy. Order the Kamo Zaru (cold soba with hot duck broth, duck meatball and Japanese leeks).

Libertable – This luxurious cake shop and café serves creations by Kazuyori Morita. We tried the Luxe; a decadent chocolate and truffle masterpiece.

 

To Drink 

High Five Bar – Cocktail making is a fine art in Tokyo and the best bars are not cheap. High Five is an intimate hideaway, with a few cosy tables and a beautiful bar. There is no menu so speak to Hidetsugu Ueno (the owner and head bartender) about your favourite flavours and he will create you something magical. We tried sake and Nikka whisky based drinks, strong and sensual cocktails that were stylishly presented.

Gen Yamamoto – Serious cocktail drinkers will love this bespoke experience. Gen Yamamoto is the owner and sole member of staff at this incredibly exclusive bar. A flavour connoisseur, Gen offers tasting menus only, all based on seasonal local produce.

About Life Coffee – This small takeaway kiosk opened in May 2014 and is now known as one of the best coffee venues in Tokyo. They use beans from a few hand-picked roasters and host international guest baristas and roasters such as Market Lane Coffee from Australia.

Toranomon Koffee – From the same people as the celebrated (now closed) Omotesando Koffee, this hip outlet is located in the business district in the Mori building. The café is beautifully designed in minimal sleek wood and metal and serves tasty coffee and delectable bites. Don’t miss the addictively good pain perdu.

Golden Gai – There is nowhere quite like the Golden Gai. Found in the Shinjuku district this atmospheric area consists of six narrow alleys with over 200 bars and eateries. Some ramshackle venues only seat one or two guests, most bars have a cover charge, but wherever you end up you are sure to have a memorable night!

To See & Do 

Nezu Museum – Found in the Minato district, this chic museum houses Nezu Kaichiro’s private collection. We saw their exhibition to welcome the New Year called “Pine, Bamboo and Plum”, explaining the symbolic importance of different plants and animals. The impressive new building was designed by renowned Japanese architect, Kuma Kengo, and opened in 2009. I loved walking around the calming garden.

National Art Centre Tokyo – One of the largest exhibition venues in Asia, the NACT has no permanent collection but houses exciting temporary exhibitions and events. The museum is currently showing an Issey Miyake exhibition.

Tsukiji Fish Market – Often voted the number one thing to do in Tokyo, Tsukiji Fish Market is an unmissable experience. If you don’t mind (very) early starts queue for the famous Tuna auction which only allows 120 tourists per day. Many head to the market at breakfast time to try the freshest sushi from Sushi Dai.

Scai The Bathhouse – This former Bathhouse has been transformed into an intimate private gallery that displays Japanese contemporary art. Be sure to pop into nearby Kayaba Coffee and their new bakery, both just a few minutes’ walk away.

Yushima Tenjin – The shrines in Japan are serene and stunning. This Shinto shrine is dedicated to the God of Learning and was founded in the year 458. Around exam time many students hang a small wooden plaque (called an Ema) with their prayers and wishes on it for good luck.

Sumo – Sumo tournaments take place three times a year at Ryogoku Kokugikan, Tokyo’s National Sumo Hall. The afternoon and evening matches are the most important and the ringside seats are the most sought after and expensive. Each ‘bout’ (fight) lasts only a few seconds but is surrounded by an extended period of stretching and ritualistic ceremony.

Imperial Palace East Gardens – This is the only part of the palace that is open to the public. It is all calming and peaceful, but my favourite part was the Ninomaru Garden that features a tree to symbolise each prefecture of Japan.

Museum of Contemporary Art – Located in Kiba Park, east of central Tokyo, the iconic MoT shows both local and international contemporary art. When I visited they had an amazingly comprehensive Yoko Ono exhibition.

To Shop

Itoya – this stationery supermarket is a mecca for pen and paper addicts like me. Stock up on stylish Japanese staplers and rulers before visiting the Paper Concierge for a bespoke experience.

Uniqlo – I couldn’t resist visiting the flagship Ginza store whilst in Tokyo. This 12 floor clothes shop stocks a vast range of cheap tailored garments that you won’t find in the UK stores. I particularly loved their selection of dark blue jeans.

Spiral Market – Found on the second floor of the Spiral Building, this carefully curated shop stocks a wide range of design-focused homeware and stationery. I wanted it all.

Bloom & Branch – This Aoyama lifestyle concept store stocks beautiful tailored clothes from their house brands as well as international designers. After perusing the garments enjoy a coffee at the instore Cobi café or perfect your look at the shoe-polishing bar by Brift H.

Maison Koichiro Kimura – Lacquerware legend Koichiro Kimura has a tiny psychedelic shop stocking his bold and brilliant creations. He combines 400 year-old family techniques with ‘high technology’ to create avant-garde items.

Stalogy Laboratory – A small aesthetically pleasing boutique in Daikan-yama selling colorful stickers, simple stylish diaries and functional pens.

Okura – The best place to buy authentic Indigo garments in Tokyo. Browse the beautiful blue clothes whilst chatting to friendly staff (who speak very good English). Fashionable tourists will find the perfect souvenir here.

Our Favourite Shop – this little shop is not easy to find, hidden in a suburban area of town. Offering a carefully curated selection of inspiring and creative local designers, like pottery from Marushi Porcelain and Kikof tableware.

Kappabashi – Known as ‘Kitchen Town’ Kappabashi is the catering street of Tokyo. The shops here are a mecca for keen chefs, with world-class knives and weird and wonderful cooking utensils.

To Escape

Hakone – this beautiful destination is just 100km from Tokyo so makes a perfect escape from the fast-paced city. Overlooking Lake Ashinoko with views of snow-capped Mount Fuji in the distance, it offers postcard picturesque views all year round. The town is most famous for hot spring onsen bathhouses. We visited the lovely Narukawa Art Museum and the educational Tokaido Museum, which explains the history of the area. Nadaman Garden at The Prince Hotel serves a delectable traditional Kaiseki lunch.

Things to do in Sydney

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It felt like a dream arriving by train into the Emerald city of Sydney. This iconic Australian destination has the perfect balance of city excitement and beach bliss and I couldn’t wait to explore. Thanks to the sunny climate it is easy to discover the neighbourhoods on foot, finding your own hidden gems as you tick off the essential sights.

 old clare hotel

To Stay

Shangri-La Sydney – a brilliant option for short stays in Sydney, this luxurious hotel is located in the historic Rocks district. Marvel at the Opera House and Harbour Bridge from your bedroom window.

Old Clare Hotel – this new boutique hotel is found in the hip and gritty Chippendale area on the redeveloped Kensington Street precinct. The design is effortlessly cool, with 62 bedrooms, three destination restaurants, a bar and a rooftop pool.

bennelong

To Eat

Master – One of the hottest openings of 2015, this Surry Hills eatery is run by John Javier (former intern at Noma). He creates modern Chinese dishes with flair and finesse. Try the jowl peking pork with pancakes and cucumber, and order a side of special cabbage with fish butter.

Reuben Hills – a hip brunch spot in the trendy Surry Hills area serving delicious coffee and tasty South American recipes.

10 Williams Street – this cute wine bar is a great place to meet friends and enjoy a glass of organic, orange Australian wine. If you are hungry the succinct menu offers a range of tempting Italian dishes and nibbles.

Cho Cho San – a chic and minimalist modern Japanese restaurant with delicious small plates and inventive cocktails. I loved the addictive chicken karaage and the refreshing lychee & pineapple slushie.

Ester – A creative contemporary restaurant in a dressed-down industrial space. Much of the menu is cooked in the wood-fired oven and features some quirky clever recipes by chef Mat Lindsay. The roast duck with burnt honey sauce is a must.

Acme – The name comes from the initials of the four friends who opened up this fantastic little restaurant. Reasonably priced with a great vibe, it was one of my favourite restaurants in Australia. Don’t miss the pig’s head and egg yolk macaroni and the coconut rice cream with white chocolate for dessert.

Edition – There is always a queue for brunch at this Nordic – Japanese fusion café. Enjoy their premium artisanal coffee and the matcha hot cakes with mascarpone and passionfruit.

Farmhouse – It’s almost impossible to get a space at this rustic communal dining experience. With just 20 seats, the intimate restaurant is always full. Try to book in advance for Sunday lunch and let the knowledgeable team feed your stomach and soul with delicious homely fare.

Bourke Street Bakery – this neighbourhood bakery first opened in 2004 and has since expanded all over the city. The unique ginger crème brûlée tart is unmissable.

To Drink

Artificer Speciality Coffee – my favourite coffee stop in Sydney was this minimalist café on Bourke Street. Opened by two talented baristas, the coffee is rich and creamy and the space is Japanese inspired.

Paramount Coffee Project – this joint is serious about good coffee. Located in the foyer of Paramount House, a lovely art deco building… swing by for a delicious American brunch and cup of fine coffee.

Mecca Alexandria – Mecca Coffee started in the centre of town and quickly developed a loyal following. The new branch in Alexandria opened in a former warehouse, and the industrial space has been given a makeover by Smith & Carmody. The coffee is delicious and the menu offers some tempting treats too.

Bulletin Place – this tiny bar is highly regarded on the Sydney cocktail scene. The service is very personal and the drinks are unpretentious but brilliantly creative. We tasted a couple of their seasonal cocktails: the Cherry Navy and the Banana Prescription.

Opera Bar – Sitting in this al fresco bar beneath the iconic opera house is one of the best things to do in the Sydney sunshine.

Baxter Inn – this prohibition whisky bar is almost impossible to find, but it is worth the hunt. Sit at the bar and order an old fashioned (which they have on tap) or a speciality Whiskey Apple made with freshly pressed Granny Smith apples.

Shady Pines – Another prohibition-style favourite, Shady Pines is a fun and fabulous bar decorated with taxidermy and cowboy themed décor. Order a craft cocktail from the list or ask the bartenders to whip you up something bespoke.

The Winery – on warm days there is nothing better than sipping a glass of wine in a sheltered courtyard. This laid back Surry Hills establishment has a reasonable and interesting wine list and is the perfect place to wile away the afternoon.

To See & Do

Museum of Contemporary Art Australia – Housed in a grand art deco building on Sydney Quay, this museum exhibits international and Australian modern art. When we visited a vibrant retrospective of Grayson Perry’s work was on show.

Art Gallery of New South Wales – Nearby to the Botanic Gardens this grand building showcases a permanent collection of 19th and 20th century Australian art as well as regularly rotating temporary shows.

Golden Age Cinema – For special cinematic outings book tickets to the exclusive Golden Age Cinema; a glamorous, boutique screening room in the Paramount Building. The cinema shows classic and cult movies, as well as occasional new releases. Save time for a drink in the cosy bar before or after the film.

Walk to Mrs. Macquarie’s chair – For the best view of Sydney Opera House and the Harbour Bridge this lovely walk along the water is a must. The sandstone chair was carved for the wife of the Governor of New South Wales in 1810.

Royal Botanic Gardens – It is free to visit these beautiful gardens, and when inside it seems impossible that you could be so close to the city centre. Sit by the lake or enjoy the pavilion glasshouses.

White Rabbit – A rare chance to see a collection of 21st century Chinese contemporary art. After you’ve wandered around the free exhibitions grab a bite to eat in the buzzy café and bar.

Walk from Coogee Beach to Bondi Beach – Everyone you ask recommends this picturesque walk. It is a 6km walk that takes you past six beaches before reaching the famous Bondi stretch. Reward yourself with a drink at Icebergs, which boasts arguably the best views of the beach. In spring, a sculptural exhibition takes place on part of the coast.

Watsons Bay – Just a short bus journey from the city, this Eastern suburb is a popular escape for locals. Grab a rock melon sorbet on Camp Cove Beach or head to Watson’s Bay Hotel Beach Club for a drink.

venroy

To Shop 

The Stables – this Surry Hills boutique offers a range of forward-thinking designers and desirable accessories. At the back, a cute café offers sustenance for hungry shoppers.

Somedays – hidden away up an unmarked staircase, Somedays stocks a range of local and international designers, focusing on Nordic fashion influencers.

Venroy – Gould street in Bondi is a great place to pick up fashionable Australian souvenirs. Venroy was my favourite shop, a local brand that creates authentic and beautiful garments. The pastel swimshorts are super stylish and great value for money.

To Escape

Manly Beach – a 30-minute ferry ride from Sydney Quay, this surfers hang-out has some great venues. Try a burrito at Chica Bonita, coffee at Barefoot or Showbox, and a craft beer at 4 Pines Brewery. To burn off the calories stroll to the remote and calm Shelley Beach.

Blue Mountains – A couple of hours away by train the Blue Mountains is a world heritage region with dramatic scenery and quaint towns. I liked the pretty town of Leura where we had great homemade pizzas at Leura Garage for lunch. For the best views of the Three Sisters walk or take the bus to Echo Point.

Palm Beach – Famous for being the setting of Home & Away this sublime beach is a great getaway from the city. Walk to the Lighthouse for the best views and stop by The Boathouse for a bite to eat.

Hunter Valley – Australia’s most popular wine region offers fine restaurants and beautiful accommodation. Go for a tasting at the idyllic Audrey Wilkinson winery.