Category Archives: Art

The Best of Port Douglas, Australia

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Much of Australia’s East Coast seems to exist purely for tourists with tacky design and fast food outlets lining the streets. Port Douglas is different, a charming seaside town with a laid-back vibe, boutique shops and independent restaurants (such as Harrisons restaurant and Origin Espresso cafe).

There are a few lovely hotels in the area, though I recommend staying at the characterful and unique Artist’s Treehouse. This quirky three-bedroom house was once the home of Tina and Matt Gonsalves, and their gorgeous art collection still adorns the walls. You will find everything you need here and more, from cooking and washing facilities to the collection of interesting books, games and DVDs. This creative sanctuary provided the perfect home for my three days in Port Douglas, and it was a refreshing break from hotels and hostels. The couple also have a few other properties in the area, all eclectically decorated and available to rent from Airbnb or directly.

Port Douglas is the best base for Great Barrier Reef exploring. After extensive research I decided to take the ‘Outer Reef Cruise’ with Quicksilver. It is a 90- minute journey to the Agincourt ribbon reefs where Quicksilver have a spacious reef activity platform. From here you can snorkel, dive or see the underwater world from the comfort of their semi-submersible boat. This location is an optimum place to see the colourful coral, tropical fish and, if you are lucky, you might even spot reef sharks, turtles and stingrays. A buffet lunch and snorkeling equipment are provided.

For a bit of pampering head to QT, the town’s most stylish hotel. I enjoyed a blissfully relaxing custom facial at their spa. My therapist Tara used a range of the soothing Uspa products to deeply cleanse and moisturise my sun-worn skin. As she used the vitamin C rich lotions I could feel my skin tingle, and the radiant effects were clearly visible after the treatment. QT is also popular with guests and locals for its Bazaar buffet brunch. Order a freshly made omelette or waffles, or just enjoy the comprehensive exotic fruit and cereal selection.

Many tourists visiting Port Douglas will fly in and out of nearby Cairns. If you find yourself with a day or two here, dine at Tamarind for upmarket Thai cuisine, sample the award-winning coffee at Blackbird (order a ‘magic’) and try the delicious organic lunch dishes at Noa.

I recommend hiring a car in Cairns and driving to Port Douglas along the Captain Cook Highway for one of Australia’s best coastal drives. It takes just an hour, but you may like to stop for photos at Palm Cove on the way. A rental car will also give you the freedom to venture out for the day from Port Douglas to see some of the stunning local sights. Mossman Gorge is an important and beautiful area, famous for its ancient rainforest and Aboriginal history. A little further North is spectacular Cape Tribulation, where Daintree National Park meets the Great Barrier Reef. Spend a day exploring the rainforest and beaches, and be sure to stop off for a homemade cooling snack at Daintree Ice-cream Company.

Things to do in Portland

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The recent satirical TV series Portlandia portrays this Northwest American city as a hippy hangout where the ‘young go to retire’. A community of bicycle-riding, source-obsessed eaters; a bunch of liberal creatives who spend their days reading niche novels and making music. I’m pleased to report that in reality it is pretty accurate interpretation, but there is much more learn about this characterful city.

To stay

Ace Portland – The hotel that everyone wants to stay at in Portland. The standard room I called home was decorated with great vintage artifacts, stocked with Malin + Goetz toiletries and Wings & Horn dressing gowns. Enjoy fresh cookies from Maurice (a nearby cafe) on arrival and make sure you pop into the lobby photobooth for a black & white snapshot of your stay. If you are not lucky enough to be sleeping here, visit the hip café and cocktail bar Clyde Common for a happy hour snack, or stop-by Stumptown Coffee Roasters for your morning caffeine boost.

To eat

Beast – Brunch is the most popular meal of the day in Portland, and it is at Naomi Pomeroy’s Beast that the ultimate four-course brunch banquet is served. She originally ran an underground supperclub called ‘Family Supper’ before opening Beast in September 2007, one of the first on the fine dining establishments in Portland. Despite the finesse and artistry of the food here, the communal dining room has a comfortable Farmhouse chic feel. It was, without a doubt, my favourite meal in the Portland.

Ava Gene’s – setup by the founders of Stumptown Coffee this neighbourhood restaurant serves a menu of delicious Italian fare, and has won numerous awards since opening in 2013. Highlights for me were the bread topped with nduja, zucchini and lilies and the Sagna Riccia pasta with pork ragu and peppers.

Pok Pok – this Thai mecca by chef Andy Ricker began its life as a food cart and now has eight venues including two outposts in New York and two in LA. I visited the first eatery in SE Division and devoured a selection of treats from the menu. Don’t miss the legendary fish sauce chicken wings.

Salt and Straw – this ice-cream phenomenon was founded by cousins Kim and Tyler Malek in 2011 and has grown enormously since thanks to its successful innovative flavours. Try the truly unique and surprisingly tasty pear and blue cheese flavour.

Voodoo Doughnuts and Blue Star Donuts – everyone has their favourite donut place in Portland. For indulgent novelty cult donuts queue up with the crowds at Voodoo and order a bacon – maple bar (topped with a real rasher of crispy bacon). Foodies may prefer the more sophisticated Blue Star which offers culinary concoctions like the blueberry, bourbon and basil.

Food carts – in the short time I spent in Portland I managed to sample quite a few of the plentiful food carts. These are a few of my favourites with their signature dish:

Pyro Pizza – fennel sausage, basil and oregano pizza, with cherry phosphate soda

El Taco Yucateco – speciality panuchos

Dump Truck – Mr. Ma’s Special (pork dumplings) and Bacon Cheeseburger dumplings

Wolf + Bear’s – falafel wrap

Nong’s Khao Man Gai – poached chicken and rice

To drink

Stumptown Coffee – If you travel down the West Coast of America you will find Stumptown coffee beans in many of the best coffee shops and hotels. The brand was born in Portland over 15 years ago and the Ace Hotel are privileged to have a Stumptown coffee shop adjoined to the lobby. The coffee is wonderfully smooth and flavoursome, definitely the best I tried in Portland.

Coava coffee – the moment you walk into one of the huge Coava warehouse spaces you can see this team are experts in their field. Pouring precise cups of complex flavoured beans you will always get a great coffee in this speciality café.

Heart Coffee – this independent café is a favourite coffee stop with locals. They provided me with the perfect pick-me-up after lunch, a lovely strong but balanced flat white.

Angelface – this cute little bar has hand painted flowers on the walls and is always full… we were lucky to find a few empty seats. Open for dinner, but known more for their tailormade cocktails (there is no menu). Sit at the central bar to watch the bartenders at work.

Clyde Common – Connected to Ace Hotel this cocktail bar is a must especially at happy hour (3-6pm) when a selection of cocktails are just $6 each. I loved the Spelling Bee (reposado tequila, agave syrup, absinthe, bitters, grapefruit peel). If you are feeling peckish order a tasty Clyde Common Burger.

To do

Evergreen Escapes – I highly recommend booking a city tour towards the start of your trip to Portland, it is a brilliant way to understand the city culture and get your bearings. Everygreen Escapes offer the ‘Explore Portland’ tour, a three and a half hour trip through the eclectic neighbourhoods of the city. A few of the highlights were the stops at Pittock Mansion, The International Rose Test Garden and Mount Tabor Park.

Food Cart Tours – It is no secret that one of Portland’s most obvious attributes is its thriving food cart scene. Local foodie Brett Burmeister has been offering comprehensive and exclusive tours since 2008, giving an insight into the history of the food carts and tastes from four of his favourite vendors.

Fingerbang – this fabulously wacky nail bar opened in the last few months and is already revolutionising the nails of Portland’s coolest kids. Open 12-12, make a booking with super talented Asa, and let her adorn your nails with her imaginative ideas.

Brick and Mortar – a trendy new barber set up following the dissipation of the popular Modern Man salon. Ask for owner Mikey or Calen and let them restyle your hair so you fit in with the Portland crowd.

To shop

Frances May – a chic modern boutique with a carefully curated selection of designer clothes and accessories for men and women. Started up by a very stylish grandmother and granddaughter.

Nike Factory Store – Nike began its life in Oregon, just outside of Portland in 1964. So their factory outlet store is one of the best places to pick up a Nike bargain. Items can be up to 70% off the original shop price.

Milk Milk Lemonade – I loved this quiet little shop in South-East Portland. It is the work studio of OLO Fragrance, a lovely range of perfumes made by shop owner, Heather Sielaff. The most famous scents are Lightening Paw and Bark Wave, though my favourite was Valens.

To Escape

Multnomah Falls – If you fancy venturing out of town, the amazing Multnomah Waterfall is just 20 minutes’ drive from Portland and entry is free. The fall is 190 metres tall, surrounded by beautiful forest. Admire from the ground or take a short walk up to Benson Bridge for a closer view.

Things to do in Seattle

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Seattle is a bit of a trendsetter, most notably the home of Starbucks and the creative birthplace of many musical successes. It was the first stop of my USA West Coast road trip. I arrived to a roar of applause and an explosion of cannons from Century Link Field stadium as a home touchdown was scored. The rest of my time here was equally exciting, checking out the culinary delights, cultural highlights and even venturing out of town to admire the nearby natural beauties.

To stay

Ace Hotel Seattle – Many associate the hip Ace brand with New York but the hotel chain actually started in Seattle in 1999 at this boutique accommodation in Belltown. As far as affordable hotels go this place sets the standard, with simple design-conscious bedrooms and free continental breakfast (make your own waffles and Stumptown Roasters coffee).

To eat

Delancey – setup by blogger Molly Wizenburg and her husband, this little neighbourhood eatery offers the finest wood-fired pizzas in Seattle. I highly recommend the pepperoni pizza, and salted chocolate cookie for desert. While you’re there, pop next door to Essex for an expertly mixed whisky cocktail.

Poquitos – this Mexican restaurant is an institution. Found amongst the popular shops and cafes of East Pike Street, the atmosphere is lively and the staff are lovely. Don’t miss the grilled corn with crema and lime, and the incredible homemade guacamole. Wash it all down with a ‘Son of a Ditch’ fragrant tequila cocktail, and finish with a refreshing strawberry-lime-margarita ice lolly.

The London Plane – this design-conscious dining room is part of the same group as Sitka and Spruce and the Corson Building. With a café, deli, bakery and flower shop, it can be a morning multi-purpose stop in downtown. My favourite on the menu was the healthy curried avocado, shaved radish, carrot, red cabbage & cilantro.

Bastille – this French-inspired bistro serves Parisian classics with an American twist. They are often awarded for the ‘best fries in Seattle’ but we enjoyed far more than just their chips. My highlight was the Crispy Pork Belly with fresh corn polenta, curry, peach and Walla Walla onion, a beautiful balance of flavours and textures. I also loved the homemade honey ice-cream from the chef’s rooftop bee hives.

Molly Moon’s – is Seattle’s favourite ice cream parlour, now with several outlets in town. We went to the retro café in Capitol Hill to try the innovative flavours like Scout Mint (made from crushed girl scout cookies) and Balsamic Strawberry.

Another ice-cream shop really worth visiting is the hidden-away Kurt Farm Shop where you should try the delicate Rose flavour.

Skillet Diner – starting life as a food truck, they have now opened up three restaurants as they grew in popularity. The design is typical of an American diner, but the food is so much more. Visit for a decadent lunch, and order a Colonel Parker boozy shake (bourbon, peanut butter, syrup and vanilla ice-cream) and the burger with their famous bacon jam.

Chopshop – a brilliant option for breakfast, lunch or dinner, Chopshop only opened in July 2015 and is already wowing guests with their delicious and stylish plates of food. I highly recommend the mascarpone-stuffed French toast with peaches, almonds and maple syrup.

Oddfellows – this ever-evolving eatery serves American fare to locals and tourists in the know. Open from breakfast through to late-night cocktails, there is always something delicious to try. I loved the rugged décor in the open-plan main space.

To drink

Milstead & Co – there are numerous independent coffee shops in Seattle and everyone has their favourite. While exploring the Fremont district I stumbled across this fashionable coffee bar that uses beans from a number of the best North American roasters.

Tavern Law – ask anyone in Seattle where they go to get the best cocktail, and most will put Tavern Law at the top of their list. This laid-back has a host of expert mixologists. We were served by the talented Andrew Larson and tried two of his speciality inventions – Industry Punch and Five Plant Punch. The vast menu features a range from classics to innovation Tavern Law creations. For a more intimate experience, find the vintage phone and call upstairs to see if you can get a seat in the secret prohibition bar, Needle and Thread, where the barman will conjure up a drink to suit your tastes (there is no menu).

Fremont Brewing – craft beers are of the highest quality in Seattle and you can find local breweries around every corner. This family owned brewery, setup in 2007, has an Urban Beer Garden where hipsters hangout and order a five glass taster.

Elm Coffee Roasters – a newbie on the coffee scene but already with quite a reputation thanks to its deliciously smooth coffee and the chic, minimalist space at which they are served. Elm’s pastries come direct from nearby bakery, The London Plane.

To do

Pike Place Market – this iconic public farmers’ market has been continuously open since 1907, making it one of the oldest in the USA. Looking out over Elliot Bay waterfront, it is a lovely place to walk around while tasting a snack from one of the many vendors, from homemade crumpets to clam chowder.

Seattle Art Museum – Seattle’s favourite art museum is often remembered for its striking car installation hanging in the entrance lobby. Explore the extensive permanent collection of modern and ethnic art, and checkout the temporary exhibition of the moment. Pay-what-you-can is available but not advertised.

Pure Barre – barre fitness seems to be a trend that’s growing all over the globe. In America, Pure Barre have over 325 studios and provide high-intensity classes with maximum impact. Started by former dancer, Carrie Rezabek Dorr, the hour-long sessions are varied and aim to strengthen and tone the core. I enjoyed a class in the Capitol Hill branch, the results of which I could feel days later.

To shop

Totokaelo – more of a showroom than a shop, Totokaelo beautifully displays designer clothes, accessories and homeware. Found in the cool Capitol Hill neighbourhood, it perfectly fits into this creative and stylish part of town. Here you can find brands including Issey Miyake and Maison Margiela, as well as lesser known niche designers.

Glasswing – a wonder emporium of Pacific Northwest products to make your home and wardrobe look beautiful. I couldn’t resist buying one of their seasonal scented candles. They also sell a selection of some of my favourite boutique brands such as Aesop and Herbivore Botanicals.

To escape

Evergreen Escapes – this sustainable and innovative company offer a range of amazing day trips and longer excursions. We had a thrilling day exploring Mount Rainier, a spectacular natural phenomenon two hours drive from Seattle. Our group (of seven) was driven in a modern black Mercedes minibus by our friendly and knowledgeable guide, Jeff. After hiking through the magnificent National Park we stopped for a delicious picnic lunch of quinoa salad, grilled chicken and marinated tofu, served with local red wine. We were lucky to be visiting Rainier on an unusually clear today and the views were truly mesmerizing. Other highlights of the day included spotting wild critters (chipmunks, marmots, grouse and eagles) and seeing Reflections Lake and local waterfalls.