Tag Archives: ice-cream

THOROUGHLY MODERN MAN, Gelato making class at Snowflake, Soho

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“So it’s ice cream, then”, said a friend of mine, nonplussed, as I told him what my next write-up was. “I don’t know why they insist on calling it gelato, just call it ice cream”. After my latest experience at Snowflake Gelato, I know now why “they” insist on the separation of ice cream and gelato, and why from now on I shall insist on it too.

Snowflake’s proprietor Asad set out to make gelato with one guiding principle: the best of everything. When one’ product consists of milk, sugar, cream, and then one or two all natural ingredients, from strawberries to caramel to rich pistachio or spiky mint, there is nowhere to hide if they aren’t absolutely top notch quality. You won’t find any fluorescent green mint chocolate chip in Snowflake, because the mint flavour is made from freshly blitzed mint leaves; if you order the strawberry or blood orange (and I advise you to do so), strawberry and blood orange is exactly what you’re getting, and nothing else. All of this wonderful produce is lovingly crafted by energetic head chef Paolo, to deliver the stunning spectrum of flavours available from the tortuously inviting glass display case in Snowflake’s Soho store.

There is some science that goes into the taste sensation that blows “ice cream” clean out of the water. Less air in the mixture gives a much denser flavour on the palate, and the process of blast chilling the freshly made gelati and sorbetti stops the ice crystals from forming too large, preserving the impossibly silky smooth texture. There’s even less fat compared to normal ice cream, which compensates with extra cream to achieve that desired smoothness. So – and I think this is the first time I’ve ever said this, as those who know my diet will attest – the tastier option really is the healthier option. That extra scoop wasn’t that bad after all, then.

As a privileged member of the press, I was even allowed into the inner sanctum to try my hand at making my own sorbetto and gelato. Under the watchful eye of Paolo and Asad, we sliced and diced and blended and churned, and in a matter of two hours we had four flavours done, dusted, and thoroughly sampled. But fear not, you too can see behind the curtain, and chance your arm in Snowflake’s laboratory. For groups of up to ten, Paolo will whisk you around the world in a chilled culinary adventure, with the added bonus of eating what you produce. The opportunity to see the passion that goes into making truly great gelato is to be missed, so get in before the summer rush truly takes off in earnest. For you West London purists not keen on venturing into the maelstrom of summertime Soho, fear not, your friendly neighbourhood gelateria’s original location is situated in lovely Westbourne Grove, so there are no excuses for not getting yourself down to dig in to the frozen treats that await.

More information on Snowflake here.

Written by a Thoroughly Modern Man, James Bomford.

Best Ice-cream in London

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This year we have gladly welcomed a decent summer, a phenomenon rarely witnessed in the UK. When the sun came out big and strong for an extended period of time the Brits initially panicked… what do we do? What should we wear? What should we eat? Ice-cream is the obvious answer, bringing custom, like never before, to the gelaterias usually only occupied by tourists.

I’ve tasted more than my fair share and, having visited Italy twice this summer, I’ve sampled the ice cream that Europe has to offer. In case we ever get a summer again I thought I’d compile a little list of London’s top ice-cream outlets, so you don’t find yourself in a tizz wondering where to go.

Gelupo – this cute little deli has lived in Soho for just a few years, but is already an institution for late night snacks and ice-creams. The offshoot of the popular Italian restaurant Bocca di Lupo across the road, it receives many customers popping over for dessert, but has a firm following separately too. Flavours are innovative and regularly changing, all made from seasonally sourced ingredients.

Chin Chin Labs – these ice-cream magicians found in Camden are definitely the most intriguing on the list. Using nitrogen gas to solidify the creamy concoction, your scoop will be prepared and made before your very eyes. Toppings and sauces are delicious, including caramel coated pretzels, burnt white chocolate chunks and honeycomb. My favourite ice-creamier in London.

Amorino – this chain is located in the major shopping areas… I’ve tried both the King’s Road and Soho branches. For £3 you can choose as many flavours as you like… ideal for indecisive visitors. Salted caramel is one of my favourite flavours, though I love vibrant Strawberry sorbet with fresh coconut.

Freggo – this is my newest discovery. The UK branch of Argentina’s best known posh ice-cream chain. A few minutes walk from Piccadilly Circus, it is the perfect mid-shopping pitstop. This is a place where you can indulge in three luxurious varieties of dulce de leche ice cream, try all three for the ultimate sundae.

I dare you to visit all four ice cream shops in one day…

PS. Try homemade salted caramel Viennetta at The Shed, the amazing Concretes at Shake Shack and the delicious flavours at Gelato Mio… Fouberts is a favourite for families.

Chin Chin Laboratists, Nitro Ice-Cream Parlour, Camden

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Every day I get a Wordsmith’s word in my inbox… on Thursday 9th August the word was “chin-chin” meaning “a chat,” an unusual word used as a toast, greeting or farewell, originating from the Chinese “ching-ching” (please-please) with a usage first documented in 1795. Coincidentally on that same Thursday afternoon I was attending an ice-cream parlour I’d been asked to review the previous week. The name? Chin-Chin Laboratists.

Camden is a hub of creativity and festivity: musicians play in the streets, stalls offer lovely trinkets and homemade delicacies and the place is always buzzing with people enjoying a drink by the canal. Chin chin’s experimental and fun ice-cream bar fits in perfectly. I popped along before reviewing a show completely unaware of what to expect.

It was opened and is run by husband and wife Ahrash and Nyisha, who are proud to be operating Europe’s first nitro ice-cream parlour. The tiny shop-café has limited seating space with the Willy Wonka-esque equipment taking up most of the room. The staff wear white lab coats and protective goggles and the food and experience is akin to the molecular gastronomy movement in cuisine, exemplified by famous chefs like Heston Blumenthal. Visitors choose a flavour from the eccentric specials, which change weekly and if you’re lucky the scientists will talk you through the unusual process. Once you’ve chosen your flavour, the liquid mix is fast frozen in front of you using puffs of liquid nitrogen. Mixed in a blender with the nitrogen, the ice-cream is made at startling speed. I guarantee it will bring out the child in you watching this magical transformation.

I can’t fault the ice-cream, extra smooth and creamy, wonderfully light and fluffy and bursting with flavour, it is absolutely sublime. Chin-Chin don’t do boring and the flavours reflect the couple’s obvious creativity and flair. I tried flavour of the moment, Roly-Poly, a delicate vanilla mixed with homemade strawberry jam swirled in at the end to make pretty ripples. Apparently other flavours like Blueberry Buttermilk Pancake and Orange and Bayleaf are equally delish. It is scooped elegantly into a small pot and customers are asked to choose a topping or sauce from the selection of intriguing test tubes and flasks. Some are more wacky than others, I chose shards of burnt white chocolate. My friend had the chunks of honeycomb with his vanilla.

Definitely a reason to visit Camden Lock more often…come rain or shine, Chin Chin Laboratorists serve the best ice-cream in town all year round.

Visit the Chin Chin Labs website here for more information.