I’ve had Belfast on my list ‘to visit’ for a while… it is one of my best friends beloved hometowns and I’d heard more than a few murmurings of the exciting emerging food scene there. Finally I visited in May, the weather was uncharacteristically sunny and we had several restaurant bookings to give our trip structure. Northern Ireland’s capital is very accessible by short flight from elsewhere in the UK and it’s cheap to get here.

Sadly the hotel hosting us had had a fire, so we shacked up in a lovely airbnb, the ideal base for a few days exploring. We ventured to most of our stops on foot, breaking up the food venues with gardens and parks, museums and sightseeing.

To Eat

Ox Belfast – Off the beaten track on Oxford Street, Ox is a laidback Michelin-starred restaurant, with 40 seats and minimalist interiors. Head Chef Stephen Toman leads the open kitchen which presents very pretty, refined and seasonal dishes. The lunch menu is incredibly reasonable and the delicate food won’t leave you feeling too full.

The Muddler’s Club – The Muddlers Club is named after the secret society that met there over 200 years ago, a trendy and relaxed fine dining restaurant which serves an innovative set tasting menu. Also Michelin star awarded, Muddler’s Club is known for its punchy flavours and striking plates of food. We loved our lunch here which was relaxed and delicious in equal measure.

Neighbourhood Cafe – THE place for brunch in Belfast, Neighbourhood Cafe ticked every box. A chic, informal space with brilliant coffee (they were brewing Calendar Coffee from Galway when we visited) and a menu of tasty all-day dishes – French Toast and the Breakfast Bap were our favourites.

Cú – Lisburn Road has a host of inspiring eateries for dining out, which was convenient as we were staying nearby. Cú serves up irresistible Mexican food with big flavours and strong tequila cocktails. Opt for a selection of the tacos and the moreish, chunky guacamole.

Orto Pizza – When we visited a few months ago Orto was the newish pizza joint to open in Belfast, and was already receiving rave reviews. We headed here for our final meal in town, the expansive restaurant is clean and stylish, ideal for groups or families. Their is a range of pizzas and filled focaccias to choose from at lunchtime, all generously topped with tasty seasonal ingredients.

Oh Donuts! – I had no idea about the popular donut scene in Belfast before visiting. Guilt Trip, Black Box and Taboo were all mentioned to me, but no cafe was recommended more than Oh Donuts!, a brightly coloured cafe for good coffee and great donuts. When we arrived at 11am they were almost sold out, but we managed to nab one of their iconic ‘Boston Creme’ flavours, a super fresh, very well filled creamy donut. Their vegan menu is also very well regarded!

Al Gelato – Delicious homemade gelato based in, and made in Belfast. Find them on Ormeau Road, Lisburn Road and Ballyhackamore.

To Drink

Established Coffee – This great speciality coffee spot is found in Belfast’s Cathedral Quarter, a spacious place to sit and work or enjoy brunch with friends. They roast a big range of beans from a range of countries and can advise you on a roast to suit your tastes. Both the caffeinated and decaf coffee from Established were delicious, and I wish I had brought some beans home with me!

Output Espresso – A hip spot on Lisburn Road, Output is the ideal cafe for a hearty weekend brunch or takeaway coffee. I can recommend the Chicken Waffles or Pig Pancakes paired with a perfectly poured flat white.

Napoleon Coffee – Napoleon is an independent speciality coffee shop in Ormeau Baths that opened in August 2020, in the middle of the pandemic. Founded by barista Rachel Snowdon and scientist Matthew Mcauley, it is the realisation of a long time coffee dream for them. They serve a variety of beans, including Lucid Coffee Roasters (perfect for milk based coffees) and Parisian brand Kawa Coffee.

To Do

Glass Dome Victoria Square – Rising high above the city’s skyline, the Dome at Victoria Square boasts 360 degree views across Belfast. Free to visit and worth seeing to see the city from above.

The MAC Belfast – The Metropolitan Arts Centre in Belfast has recently been renovated, a stunning building in the heart of the Cathedral Quarter. The gallery hosts international art exhibitions, live theatre, top shows and events, and educational programmes. I was particularly impressed with the facilities for kids.

Belfast Botanical Gardens – The Botanic Gardens is a free, public garden in Belfast. Occupying 28 acres of south Belfast, the gardens are popular with locals and tourists, a calm and lovely place to wander and admire the plants.

Belfast Black Taxi Tours – I highly recommend doing a Black Taxi Tour to understand the background and stories of Belfast’s troubled past. I found it fascinating to drive round with someone who experienced the history first hand, learning about the political points of the city that are still so poignant today. The black cab tours also visit the world famous murals around the city of Belfast.

Holywood – Hop on a train (just 10 minutes) to this charming nearby seaside town. Visit Lynchpin for coffee and brunch and wander down to the sea.

There is something reassuring about the compact size of Malta, especially in today’s climate, as we ease ourselves back into the world of travel. I have missed European minibreaks more than anything else over the last 18 months, nothing can replace that exhilarating feeling of waking up in a new city, with a whole new culture to discover. Malta’s capital Valletta is just a 3 hour flight from London but boasts sunny weather for much of the year. There is lots to entertain you in town but also many natural sights to see under an hour away by car or bus. Here are my favourite things to do from a long weekend in Malta.

To Stay

Iniala Harbour House – With an advantageous location on the St Barbara Bastion this luxurious hotel boasts spectacular vistas of the Grand Harbour. There are 23 elegant rooms and suites, a relaxing spa, world-class cuisine and wonderful service. The hotel is housed within four historic Maltese houses, immaculately restored and lavishly decorated inside to ensure you have the most comfortable base while exploring Malta.

To Eat

Ion the Harbour – The fine dining destination atop the Iniala Hotel. This beautiful rooftop restaurant has recently welcomed one of my favourite chefs, Alex Dilling, to the kitchen. Save time and appetite for the memorable tasting menu, featuring some of Alex’s most iconic creations, such as the divine ‘Hunter Chicken’ with Sauce Albufera. The menu draws on Maltese influences and local ingredients, but is classically French in style. The restaurant was recently awarded its first star, and I predict a second will follow soon. (Other fine dining spots worth visiting include Noni and Under Grain).

Guze – This friendly restaurant serves local Maltese dishes with a twist. Found in a 400 year old historic building, dinner here is atmospheric and special. Expect refined rabbit dishes and stylish desserts from the kitchen of this celebrated bistro.

Legligin – A great spot to get acquainted with the local cuisine. This cosy restaurant offers a tasting menu with a variety of delicious homely cuisine, using the finest Maltese ingredients. Book ahead as it’s always busy.

San Paolo Naufrago – Sit on the steps outdoors and order a pizza and glass of local wine. The pizzas are generous and delicious and the atmosphere is great fun.

Museum Cafe – Established in 1921 the Museum Cafe is the best place in Valletta to pick up the local delicacy of Pastizzi.

Manouche Bakery – Head to this petite bakery (Malta’s first craft bakery) for indulgent viennoiserie and French baked treats.

To Drink

Lot Sixty One – My first stop in a new city is always a local speciality coffee shop, and Lot Sixty One is the only place in Valletta serving really good coffee. Everyone recommended it to me and it did not disappoint. Open long hours and serving their own roasted beans, the coffee here is strong and delicious. Perch on the al fresco tables with a flat white and plan the rest of your Maltese adventure.

Alchemy – If you are a cocktail fan this is the place to visit. Alchemy is serious about mixology and the knowledgable staff here will create you a totally unique and delicious drink. Open daily from 6pm and found tucked away on the revamped Strait Street.

Bridge Bar – A lovely outdoor spot for an evening drink and a bite to eat while listening to some live jazz, overlooking the Grand Harbour.

To Explore

Barrakka Gardens – Found at the top of the city of Valletta the magical Barrakka Gardens are well worth a visit while in town. The colonnaded gardens were created in 1661, and were originally the private gardens and exercise grounds of the Knights of the of the langue of Italy, they were opened to the public in 1824. It is a romantic spot to sit and admire the view.

Blue Grotto – There are a number of sea caverns on the south east coast of Malta and the term ‘Blue Grotto’ refers to the collection of them. It is a short taxi ride or bus journey from Valletta, and makes a great half day trip. Head down to the water where you can swim or take a boat ride to see the inside of these incredible caves.

Mdina – This fortified city (and Unesco World Heritage site) is known as ‘The Silent City’ and is 20 minutes drive from Valletta. Here you can wander round by foot, take a charming horse and carriage ride, and enjoy delicious ice-cream from Fior di Latte. Before heading back walk over to the neighbouring town Rabat to pick up traditional Pastizzi lunch from Is Serkin – for just 40 cents you can get a delicious savoury pastry filled with curried peas, cheese or chicken.

Boat to the Three Cities – Take a boat from the Valletta waterfront to explore the Three Cities (Birgu, Bormla and Senglea). I spent most of my time wandering round Birgu and stopped for comforting Italian food at Terrone, run by ex-River cafe alumni.

I was a guest of Iniala Harbour House and Ion – the Harbour restaurant.