I’ve had Belfast on my list ‘to visit’ for a while… it is one of my best friends beloved hometowns and I’d heard more than a few murmurings of the exciting emerging food scene there. Finally I visited in May, the weather was uncharacteristically sunny and we had several restaurant bookings to give our trip structure. Northern Ireland’s capital is very accessible by short flight from elsewhere in the UK and it’s cheap to get here.
Sadly the hotel hosting us had had a fire, so we shacked up in a lovely airbnb, the ideal base for a few days exploring. We ventured to most of our stops on foot, breaking up the food venues with gardens and parks, museums and sightseeing.
To Eat
Ox Belfast – Off the beaten track on Oxford Street, Ox is a laidback Michelin-starred restaurant, with 40 seats and minimalist interiors. Head Chef Stephen Toman leads the open kitchen which presents very pretty, refined and seasonal dishes. The lunch menu is incredibly reasonable and the delicate food won’t leave you feeling too full.
The Muddler’s Club – The Muddlers Club is named after the secret society that met there over 200 years ago, a trendy and relaxed fine dining restaurant which serves an innovative set tasting menu. Also Michelin star awarded, Muddler’s Club is known for its punchy flavours and striking plates of food. We loved our lunch here which was relaxed and delicious in equal measure.
Neighbourhood Cafe – THE place for brunch in Belfast, Neighbourhood Cafe ticked every box. A chic, informal space with brilliant coffee (they were brewing Calendar Coffee from Galway when we visited) and a menu of tasty all-day dishes – French Toast and the Breakfast Bap were our favourites.
Cú – Lisburn Road has a host of inspiring eateries for dining out, which was convenient as we were staying nearby. Cú serves up irresistible Mexican food with big flavours and strong tequila cocktails. Opt for a selection of the tacos and the moreish, chunky guacamole.
Orto Pizza – When we visited a few months ago Orto was the newish pizza joint to open in Belfast, and was already receiving rave reviews. We headed here for our final meal in town, the expansive restaurant is clean and stylish, ideal for groups or families. Their is a range of pizzas and filled focaccias to choose from at lunchtime, all generously topped with tasty seasonal ingredients.
Oh Donuts! – I had no idea about the popular donut scene in Belfast before visiting. Guilt Trip, Black Box and Taboo were all mentioned to me, but no cafe was recommended more than Oh Donuts!, a brightly coloured cafe for good coffee and great donuts. When we arrived at 11am they were almost sold out, but we managed to nab one of their iconic ‘Boston Creme’ flavours, a super fresh, very well filled creamy donut. Their vegan menu is also very well regarded!
Al Gelato – Delicious homemade gelato based in, and made in Belfast. Find them on Ormeau Road, Lisburn Road and Ballyhackamore.
To Drink
Established Coffee – This great speciality coffee spot is found in Belfast’s Cathedral Quarter, a spacious place to sit and work or enjoy brunch with friends. They roast a big range of beans from a range of countries and can advise you on a roast to suit your tastes. Both the caffeinated and decaf coffee from Established were delicious, and I wish I had brought some beans home with me!
Output Espresso – A hip spot on Lisburn Road, Output is the ideal cafe for a hearty weekend brunch or takeaway coffee. I can recommend the Chicken Waffles or Pig Pancakes paired with a perfectly poured flat white.
Napoleon Coffee – Napoleon is an independent speciality coffee shop in Ormeau Baths that opened in August 2020, in the middle of the pandemic. Founded by barista Rachel Snowdon and scientist Matthew Mcauley, it is the realisation of a long time coffee dream for them. They serve a variety of beans, including Lucid Coffee Roasters (perfect for milk based coffees) and Parisian brand Kawa Coffee.
To Do
Glass Dome Victoria Square – Rising high above the city’s skyline, the Dome at Victoria Square boasts 360 degree views across Belfast. Free to visit and worth seeing to see the city from above.
The MAC Belfast – The Metropolitan Arts Centre in Belfast has recently been renovated, a stunning building in the heart of the Cathedral Quarter. The gallery hosts international art exhibitions, live theatre, top shows and events, and educational programmes. I was particularly impressed with the facilities for kids.
Belfast Botanical Gardens – The Botanic Gardens is a free, public garden in Belfast. Occupying 28 acres of south Belfast, the gardens are popular with locals and tourists, a calm and lovely place to wander and admire the plants.
Belfast Black Taxi Tours – I highly recommend doing a Black Taxi Tour to understand the background and stories of Belfast’s troubled past. I found it fascinating to drive round with someone who experienced the history first hand, learning about the political points of the city that are still so poignant today. The black cab tours also visit the world famous murals around the city of Belfast.
Holywood – Hop on a train (just 10 minutes) to this charming nearby seaside town. Visit Lynchpin for coffee and brunch and wander down to the sea.